Yes. Just installed fat 220 SRAM rotors with Saint brakes and new pads. Zero clearance issue. So far so good.Quote:
Originally Posted by VTskibum
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Yes. Just installed fat 220 SRAM rotors with Saint brakes and new pads. Zero clearance issue. So far so good.Quote:
Originally Posted by VTskibum
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Agreed with all the other recs. Lot of sketchier places that might be chill, probably won't though. Sort of rolling the dice with backroads camping out there. Lookout is a good spot, I've camped there a bunch of times when I was driving through and didn't feel like paying at Silver. I camped at Bumblebee campground once, a few years back, it's close to the Graham ridge area, with is an awesome ride. But otherwise, it's still a drive to the resort, and not a good enough vibe to be worth it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Thanks for volunteering, stoked for that race, couldn't convince the lady friend to come up with me and volunteer haha.
Ok, I think I just need an expert internet sleuth, but here goes. I am trying to tighten the left side crank arm on a Rogue Echo fitness bike at my gym. I have searched and searched, Google, bing, YouTube, etc, and ai can’t find a service manual that goes over how to tighten, loosen, install or do anything to these crankarms. They are not actually Bicycle components. Totally different type of design.
Anyone have any thoughts before I email the company?
Attachment 418333
This was a recall issue. I got both my '19 Code RSC lever assemblies replaced on warranty. It's piston or bore swelling that locks up the master cylinder. May have affected other SRAM brakes too. If you bought from a shop I'd contact them, otherwise contact SRAM and see if they'll help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebird
If all else fails rebuild with new master cylinders.
I have these at work…. I’ll check one tomorrow and see what I can see.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
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Thanks SB, that would be great. My email to rogue bounced back as undeliverable.
Got this. Has the Shimano Claris which is kinda crappy but needs a little tuning and is good for now!Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal
A follow-up to a question that I asked a few weeks ago. I had a creaking/popping sound at slow speeds and it did end up being the lower link bearings seized.
In the past as a super amatuer mechanic I always thought that was a shop job for sure. The shops were way backed up and it was pretty pricey so I ordered the tools needed from bearingprotools.com. Highly reccommend, it made it an easy no-stress job even for a beginner and the whole kit for two different size pullers/press drifts was 70 bucks shipped.
Their Wind-Out Bearing Pullers are pretty good for a economical bearing puller. As long as you have a flat surface to pull against.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spencer123
I have a bunch for smaller linkage sized bearings, where using a punch or slide hammer style is not ideal.
For rideit and other Rocky Mountain people:
I've been waiting on a service kit so I can get a shock re-stroked from 210x50 to 210x55 for my kid's 2019 Altitude (Mara Pro, re-stroke requires a full tear-down). I just found out the service kit vendor is completely shut down due to covid and the kits could be months out. Is the suspension on an Altitude going to feel whack if it's short-shocked?
Personally I would run it, and see how it feels. Short-shocking has less possible negative consequences than long shocking, (usually). Maybe run a bit more sag in the fork, and run it in the steeper ride-9 modes, pretty sure your kiddo wouldn’t feel much difference.
Dee?
I'm neither rideit nor a Rocky Mountain person, but the leverage ratio around the end of the travel on that bike doesn't do anything noteworthy - it's linearly progressive. So I wouldn't expect short-stroking it to do anything other than make the bike have about 13 mm less travel, and probably feel a little more linear throughout its travel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
For doing a first time chain deep cleaning is it acceptable to use automotive brake cleaner? Chain will be removed from bike of course..
Trying to degunk as much as possible before switching to dry lube.
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Brake clean works great for stripping chains, as does high proof isopropyl alcohol.Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust
Sure, but why? It'd be cheaper and less messy (and won't require safety glasses for the spray) to drop the chain in a 2-liter soda bottle, pour in some of your used-but-settled paint thinner (everyone should have a container of such), cap and shake/soak/shake. Pour the thinner back into your container, cut the soda bottle to get chain out, recycle the bottle, let the chain drip dry. Now you're ready for your favorite flavor of queso.
Step 1- Paint thinner in a pickle jar set in the ultrasonic cleaner, while it’s warming up.
Step 2 - degreaser in the ultrasonic cleaner at 160*
Step 3 - denatured alcohol in a pickle jar
Step 4 - hang to dry
Step 5 - now you’re ready to lube, wax, run dry, use as artwork, etc.
IME coil the chain up in the bottom of a jar and cover with a few inches of white gas AKA napthaQuote:
Originally Posted by east or bust
in the AM it will be absolutely incredibly clean
Well, had brake cleaner on hand so that’s what I used.
Had a big tin can and coiled up chain, hit with brake cleaner so there was enough to swirl around. Did some finer work with tooth brush then went to nail brushes. She’s clean, very clean. Man, brake cleaner is some nasty shit though. If I was doing this more than once a year I’d definitely consider a different method.
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use wat yiu got is always smart, all i had was white gas when I did it but it works so well I've done it a couple more times, no scrubbing just pull it out of the jar and the white gas evaps real quick
Careful of the solution you soak the chain in.
Three factors to take into account are Hydrogen embrittlement, this is a problem with solutions like Simple Green
The second is make sure you use a balanced solvent.
The third is to use polar solvent in the final step, denatured alcohol or acetone will ensure all the water is out of of the chain, and the solvent will evaporate leaving a clean and moisture free chain.
Jeezus if my chain was so gross that I had to run it through multiple solvent tanks I would just throw it away and get a new one.
Haven't had gross chain issues for a decade plus. Wash your bikes more often.
we are talking about switching to a wax chain lube^^ you have to clean a brand new chain to run wax cuz you have to get all the protective coating off so a soak in Naptha will clean off every speck of the mfger's protective coating same for a used chain
if a bike gets icky & gross I just throw it away and get a new one
Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Cool, thanks. Sugar Daddy just sent us a Mezzer, so I'll throw the Mara on when I install the fork.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Yeah you must absolutely clean every element of foreign substances before going wax chain lube. Make sure you have your white gloves on to check
I love when anal retentive folks justify their meticulous behavior rather than admit it is OCD and excessive need for perfection with no appreciable performance benefits.
Deep cleaning nonsense. Just wash your bike with the new chain on it. Apply lube after it dries.
Sorry I don't keep up with the waxed chain convos. I'm too busy riding and washing a fleet of bikes with a power washer and a spray bottle. No toothbrushes, awful chemicals or dunk tank needed. Squirt lube if you care to know.
Yea I spray, wipe, and lube... doesn't seem to be an issue.
Although my friend said he'd wax my chain if I took it off and gave it too him, so I'll try it.