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I leave it plugged in and pressurized. Never had a problem. Don't leave anything in the quick release though. That can cause slight air leakage which can cause the compressor to LOUDLY kick on in the middle of the night, waking up your wife.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Ask me how I know.
Ha. Mine put a sign on the shop for that said "is the compressor off?"Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
I later installed a timer switch so it never runs at night.
California Compressor. Seriously. It's quiet AF. Our bedroom is above the garage, with the old compressor I was getting up in the middle of the night when it cycled because I forgot to turn it off. Now, sometimes I don't realize I left the new compressor on until I'm putzing around in the garage the next weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
I'll have to give that some thought. I barely use my compressor - just for seating tires. Hard to justify leaving it pressurized all the time.
I bought this Makita from England. I'm betting no warranty since it's overseas but the price can't be beat. The reviews of it as a bike inflator are over the moon. We shall see.
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-DMP180...13&sr=8-4&th=1
I’ve always released pressure my Porter Cable pancake, including the drain valve where a noticeable amount of rust colored water comes out. If I’m in the middle of a project I’ll leave it pressurized for a couple of days but not more. Doesn’t seem good to leave moisture in it for a long time. Perhaps not an issue in a dry climate.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Unless it leaks, there's really no downside to this. It just sits there pressurized instead of empty. It's not like it's drawing power.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Just make sure your connections and quick connects don't leak. I never turn mine off and the only time it kicks on is when I'm using it.
As for moisture in the tank, go ahead and drain it once a month or so, like any compressor.
Looking for a set of bike tools to cover most basic-intermediate repairs. After a little hiatus, I'm getting back into biking - primarily gravel and road - and have only the essentials right now (multitool, pump, mini-pumps, tire levers, pedal wrench, valve core tool, etc.).
Should I buy a basic kit to cover my needs (Park AK-5 or Feedback Team Kit)? Build it out as needed? Seems like lots of people like Wera and Wiha, and Park and Topeak have been around forever. Also planning to buy a stand, likely Park.
I searched but couldn't find thoughts on building out the basics. Thanks in advance.
My one bit of advice for starting a tool collection is avoid allen wrenches with the ball ends, unless they're really high grade/tolerance, especially for smaller sizes. It's so easy to round out bolts as the wrenches wear down. I had a set of the Park Y-wrenches for quick work that had those, and replaced them with the non-ball end ones after rounding out a couple bolts.
I’d get a set of higher end allen keys, a chain breaker, and chain pliers.Quote:
Originally Posted by fool
Then just wait and buy tools as the need arises. Chances are; whenever you are doing maintenance beyond tightening and lubing; you are going to be buying a part; and at that point you can buy the tool to install said part.
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So I bought this AMZN inflator and a prestacycle chuck. I haven’t used it enough to have a final review; but I like it so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
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Those kits are obscenely expensive for what boil down to mediocre tools. You'll do better buying separate for sure, if not on price then on quality. Plus avoiding stuff you don't need.Quote:
Originally Posted by fool
Feedback sports stands are the best around for portable IMO.
Wera Hex Plus L keys - often sub $40 for a nice set on Amazon.
Pedros has excellent chain / cassette related tools (and other items as well).
Prestacycle has great small tool kits and good pre-set torque drivers that are affordable.
I don't know how to link an individual post, but go to this page at the beginning of this thread:Quote:
Originally Posted by fool
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ol-Time/page31
And look for the below post. Then read the next page or two from there. It'll give you great insight on how to start a tool collection for bikes from scratch. Here's the old post, quoted:
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I'm a little like Dee with tools (though apparently not with organization) in that I have way too many to justify. I was about to recommend the Pedros or Park starting master kits and then saw how much they cost. I was lucky enough to have a Pedros sponsorship when I was first building my shop tools up so things were pretty cheap and I didn't really notice how much I was spending. It's kind of like the frog in water that keeps getting hotter till it boils: buying it tool by tool kept me from noticing how much bank was headed out the door.
Anyway, this would be a good start: https://pedros.com/products/tools/to...-tool-kit-3-1/ except it costs more than a grand. Damn. But I don't know what to tell you. You want all this stuff. Much of it you really need if you are serious about wrenching. Retail tool costs are stupid.
Maybe it would help to put it in tiers.
First tier - stuff you have to have. Last year I put together a tool kit for my kid when he went to college so I just thought this through. Changes a little based on what bikes you have:
- allen wrench L set (bondhus is good and cheap)
- individual torx drive L tool as needed for your bikes
- allen wrench for your pedals/crank if needed and not in set
- small and large flat and phillips screw drivers
- adjustable crescent wrench, small but 1 1/8" wide
- cable cutter
- pedal wrench
- chain tool
- chain whip
- cassette removal tool
- BB/crank removal tools as needed
- cone wrenches if needed for your bikes
- tire irons
- floor pump/shock pump
Second tier:
- L handle allen wrenches
- ratcheting fixed crescent set
- full torx set
- full cone wrench set
- metric mini tape measure
- spanners as needed for your bikes
- needle nose pliers
- spoke wrenches
Third tier
- chain link removing tool/quick link pliers
- y handle allen wrenches (some put these in first tier, but L handle set is better)
- disc brake spacer
- downhill tire iron
- chain checker
- some people like rubber hammers. I don't use em. Real hammer needed very infrequently.
- Bike workstand
Stupid Tier (just some examples. Lots of other stuff fits here)
- torque wrench and attachments
- truing stand (Park. Only Park.)
- star nut setter
- dust cap driver
- fixed torque drivers
- disc wrench
- compressor
Really Stupid Tier (just some examples. Lots of other stuff fits here)
- headset/bearing press
- race setter
- spoke tensometer
- steerer tube cutter
- headset cup removal tool
- other assorted shit that really isn't needed, like spanners for bikes you don't own, third hands, tools for old bikes, etc.
Ok, Dee, that's tough to do from memory. What did I miss?
Bondus Metric Ball End Hex for $20 or less. Don’t spend more unless you want to geek out on hex wrenches.
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$20 gets you metric AND SAE. $11 more gets you ball ends--I like the ball ends, but you do have to be careful about switching to the non-ball side as soon as there's much resistance.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-22199...8688558&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-20199...8688558&sr=8-1
I really like the 4/5/6mm Y wrench a lot. Got one for free (came with a bike) and I was surprised at just how often I find myself using it. Single tool, 3 of the most common sizes, shape gives you a reasonably comfortable way to grip and apply torque.
edit: for example, I can grab the Y and check all of my suspension linkage bolts with one tool. A couple of them would be hard to actually turn with the Y, but I have enough clearance to at least make sure they are still tight.
No specific brand rec there...I'm sure the Park one is fine.
Otherwise yeah, just build the kit as you need things. No need to buy a full tool kit today as a few wrenches take care of the bulk of bike tasks.
It might depend on how casual of a mechanic you plan to be, if yer really mechanicing a lot good tools can save etime but I just collected stuff as needed over the years,
park is alwasy a good brand, a stand is definatly nice, a chain checker, a good set of cable cutters is priceless, a good shop pump i find with bikes I use a few things all the time and some things not much,\
I made a headset press from fender washers and some ready rod that works fine but i havent used it i years, I had a park wheel truing stand I got from a shop closing which i never ever used so it gathered dust in my shed for > 20yrs, now it gathers dust in Lhutz's garage
Maybe a better approach would be to focus on what tools made a big difference when compared with the cheap alternative, and where there are frugal deals to be found on toolz. And what you can get away without.
Vice Grips, Cable Blocks, and a hammer will drive hydraulic barbs in all day long. Add a bench vice and it's magic. Or you could spend $90 on the proper tool if you're going to do it more than once a year.
As mentioned above, Bondhus Allen Wrenches are 99% as good as anything out there and can be found cheaper than Park equivalent. Some sources suggest Bondhus makes Park stuff, but I doubt it given that the tolerances for Bondus are massively better. And cheap wrenches strip bolts.
I went an embarrassing amount of time using angle cutters for inner and outer shift cable. Using a proper cable cutter is a game changer for a newb bike mechanic. That said, you can get a Pedros version for half of the Park one, or you could find a decent knock off on Amazon for even less and would still be good.
im sure other people went through this with tools but subsequently upgraded my chain breaker every time i had to use it; wanted to avoid spending money on the ct-3.3 but it was worth the money in the end.
i also have the wera allen keys and they are saweeeeet.
i think the park tool 10.3 stand is worth it for the weight it can handle and the quick release on the clamp (decided between that, 9.3 and feedback and landed on 10.3).
dream cable cutters are the knipex but dont work on cables enough to justify (though nothing like the feeling of a clean cut and crimp).
on the other end of the spectrum, any home mechanics buy $300 chain breakers?: https://www.abbeybiketools.com/colle...ade-chain-tool
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Everything from Abbey is super nice. The Campagnolo chain tool is also very nice if you can score one for less than the Abbey. They're both smooth and easy to use in a way that cheaper chain tools aren't - it matters if you're working with a lot of chains. We've got a variety of chain tools in our shop and for whatever reason the Pedros ones get the most use.
For home use, I'd buy the Pedro's Shop chain tool for $55. The only caveat being that it doesn't peen Campagnolo chains but...that's insane anyways and even Campy themselves have given up on that.
Great advice. Especially the part about knowing where to spend $.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Maintenance stuff that will be ongoing gets a premium, cable cutters, chain tools (breakers and gauges), brake tools (a good bleed kit is worth it's weight in gold). I'd add T-handled hex wrenches and T25 to that list.
My general rule of tools is if I have to borrow it a second time, I need to buy one.
I also hate having to redo stuff. That includes buying tools twice so I buy quality. Not necessarily Abbey level (although their dual sided Cromby Tool is worth every penny) but quality.
No mention of torque wrenches? Never had a bike sized one but now I have a bike with flip chips and the torque settings are scaring the shit out of me. Necessary or no?
Forgot that. IMO, you really can pretty much get by with the small single setting 5Nm ones. I prefer the CDI (Snap-On).Quote:
Originally Posted by adrian.bee
https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-TL...0&sr=8-15&th=1
5Nm will cover your M6 screws (seatpost, stem, brake mounts). They're the most important to torque.
If you want a little more variation, CDI makes a really nice adjustable, 2-8Nm, that will cover all your smaller (linkage type) screw sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
For larger torque settings, I really don't worry about them that much. Just don't be stupid.
If you want a more traditional torque wrench, I really like this Tekton at a reasonable price:
https://www.tekton.com/1-4-inch-driv...rench-trq21101
Anything attached to carbon gets a torque wrench IMO.
I have a Tekton similar to that one linked above, works great. I also have a large digital Gearwrench for larger torque values (mostly used on cars, but I'll use it on high torque bike stuff like cranks).
I never used one for 20 years of wrenching. I just trusted my feel. Nothing ever blew up and slipped on me (except for one seatpost on one bike that I just can't make stay still but that's a different story). But there is a lot of wrenching hours behind that, so I wouldn't recommend it for most people.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrian.bee
Here's a good, inexpensive one. I think Dee and I both own this (and you know Dee's tastes): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have one of these that made it over a decade but finally bent enough to be cooked. Need a new one. Not feeling that Abbey. Need to shop around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinned
Generally, your base level stuff can be made by Bondhus, Park, Pedros, Spin Doctor sometimes, etc and you'll be fine. That said, here are some tools to consider going with an upgraded version, right off the bat, since you'll use them so much and quality matters in their case:
- Screwdrivers, flat, phillips, torx: I like wiha, some like wera. Buy a set for 35-50. Not bad. Torx set is separate.
- L allen wrenches. Wera. Buy these if you want to save some money - barely more than Bondhus. $21 if you open buying options on the right: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Cable cutter. Just buy the Knipex wire cutter. It's gonna last. I've killed the Park version much too easily. Though I just looked it up and it's $60. That's a lot, but I love mine. https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-95-61-...l%2C98&sr=1-11
- Chain tool. As mentioned, better ones are way easier.
- Nice tire irons
- Good pump
the park CT5 chain tool, some scribe once pointed out while it is mini but performs like a shop tool so i got one and I agree, also its cheaper
if you don't have cable cutters a shop grinder or even a sanding disk chucked in a drill will face the ends of your cables real nice
without a tube of carbon grip paste parts will move and/ or creak