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Attachment 407088
I’ve had these in a box for a few seasons, originally I’d planned on a japow trip but Covid took care of that. I finally pulled them out for the EuroBBI setup. I took them out on some boilerplate for a shakedown and they skied well. The heels feel a little sticky when manually engaging them on the bench. Has anyone else noticed that, is there a spot that needs lubricant periodically?
Recently one of my toe pieces developed much more lateral play than the other. I mostly notice this in touring mode (with or without toe locked). I haven't noticed it while skiing with my heel locked, but I have to assume that there is still more lateral play in the toe with the heel locked -- I just have been skiing them pretty conservatively.
Anyone else experience this or have any ideas about what might be going on?
(not currently able to post any links as this is my first post)
So far my bindings have been really good this season except for my last two days. The heelpiece seemed to have slid backwards (like it would as the ski flexes) and will not slide forwards again. I walked out of the binding while skiing and went to step in and when the heelpiece clicked in, it was 1-2cm further back than it was before. Adjusted BSL screw to compensate so I could ski out, then reset the forward pressure/BSL that night. The next day during my first transition I had the same issue happen. Took it into a shop and when they pulled the heelpiece off of the track the worm screw was completely frozen and encased in ice. I haven't skied them since. Any ideas how to prevent this?
Silicon grease.
I have no idea what might cause this, bbut just to clarify something - the toes does not lock out, the walk mode just adds tension/friction to the mechanism. It is one of their selling features that the bindings will actually release in walk mode, though that could also add a tiny bit of play (which should be symmetrical). Have you reached out to BD and have them give their take on them? The warrenty process over yonder seems pretty low threshold, so might be worth a shot as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by dllllllll
Tectons and Transalp CS? That is quite the odd pairing. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by nordekette
I think the new carbon ones no longer have this but doesn't it have a pin width adjustment? I haven't swapped boots with mine in almost 4 years or whatever but i thought i remembered having slop until I adjusted that
Interesting…Quote:
Originally Posted by nordekette
I have lots of days with my Travers CS in both Tectons and Xenics. Seems to work just fine, never a prelease and appropriate lateral release at the toe when needed out of the Tectons.
As an aside: the Travers ski downhill a lot better with an Intuition Tour Wrap and a Pulse Labs power strap added.
Attachment 409205
So the forward release tab broke off one of the toes. I could reinstall the tab, however the plastic holding it in is gone, so it'll probably fall off in the future.
Anyone have this issue? Anyone ski them with no toe release tab? Normal pin bindings don't have forward release tabs, so maybe?
Did you end up making this swap? Any photos of vipec heels going onto tectons? I may want to make a similar mod.Quote:
Originally Posted by Solesides
What is it you want to ski? You just back off the length adjust screw moving it back on the plate, take it off, and put the other one on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan816
I've been swapping Tecton and Vipec heels since the Tecton came out. It's nice for when this week is smashing chalky tech and next week is a hut trip.
+1 for swapping around my Vipec and Tecton pieces all the time
Good to know. I'm planning to put a Tecton on a biggish ski that I'll drive with some rossi alltracks most of the time. I want to take the ski on a Canada hut trip, though, and I want to drive it with my tlt6's, which don't seem compatible. Have a friend with old vipec's though, so I'm wondering if I could borrow his heels for a week in order to bring the ski to Canada. Any thoughts on compatibility between older vipec models and newer tectons? Thanks.
You could also get this and make your tlt's compatible with the Tectons. But might not be worth sinking that cost and effort into such an old boot.
Also I've run 2nd gen vipec toes with Tecton heels. In DH mode there isn't a functional difference* between the Vipec and Tecton toes (slight tweaks to forward release geometry)
Just wanted to hop on here and say holy S#%& Tecton 13’s are awesome. I mounted them on some Backland 117’s and I’ve only spent a few days on them at Snowbird (no uphill yet) so far, but I feel like they’re at least as good as my Shifts were on the downhill. And I can only imagine how much better they’ll be to tour on. Anyways, new Tecton fanboy here.
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Anyone know the differences between tecton 12 and 13 other than release values? Google doesn't.
According to Blister: “The latest Tecton sees its max release value increased by one, features reinforced materials for improved durability, and offers easier step-in.”Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan816
I believe I read somewhere that the 12’s were wearing down/damaging the toe lip of some riders’ boots and they updated the 13’s to prevent that from happening. I might be making that up, though…
Skied tecton 13 carbon's and Shift back to back on a softish day. Couldn't tell much of a difference. Found the step in to be the easiest of the 4+ tech bindings I've used. But holy hell switching to tour mode or just fiddling on the bench, mind your fingers! Gonna get bit one of these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazersTimbers503
I have more confidence in the Tecton than the Shift for resort use.
Only advantage of shift IMO is being able to use full Alpine sole boots with it.
I have a pair of Tecton 12s that have been developing some play between the pins. It's a small amount of noticeable movement from side to side on the bench or when riding a chair. I've only had a heel release recently, so it hasn't affected skiability. I thought I tightened it up by increasing the forward pressure one click but it didn't stick. How much of a pain is it to adjust the pin index nut? Worthwhile?
From my experience, adjusting the pin nut did nothing
Search bar let me down. Is the ski crampon sizing off at all? For a 105 ski would 100mm work?
the new Tecton do not fit the old brakes
I’ve got 3 pair of Tecton 12 that I’ve been using for 3 years and a new set of 13 - I really like these bindings
only time I’ve ever had an issue was an unexpected release in the backcountry that I blame on myself - mud in the toes
as I recall they run wideQuote:
Originally Posted by adrian.bee
the brakes sure as hell do
You might be gambling. Skimo.co and their measurements.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrian.bee
My 90's measure 94mm and my 115's measure 120
Has anyone played around with shimming the toe piece of their tectons? Maybe I’m a bit of a weiner but the 10mm ramp delta on my short BSL feels like I’m tippy toeing around when things get gross. Found a 5mm thick cutting board for $1.99 and the tools to make it happen but wanted to see if anyone had done it before?Attachment 447684
I added the demo plates to the toes, to solve a hole conflict issue, that were probably thicker than 5mm. I prefered the added height over stock but i think i'd like the demo toe to be thinner. 5mm , i think , would be better
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The material I got my hands on is 4.7mm thick according to the calipers going to drill some holes today next piece is sourcing some screws. Looks like skimo recommends a 20.3mm pan screws. Will report back once completed.
And they don’t sell that screw, unless I’m missing something on their siteQuote:
Originally Posted by soupcan66
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It should be pretty ez to cut a screw to length. If need be you could tap the initial threads with any regular self tapping screw(pretty much every binding screw is a self tapper these days). I mounted mine with inserts. I think they ended up being 16mm screws. The same as my ions with riser plate. I may have cut a couple mils off though
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The challenge was finding any pan head long enough, at least from any binding parts sources. SS hardware at the local marine store may be my next stop
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Ah yes, copy that, sorry. I mighf be mistaken but i thought i used posi lowheads when i used inserts, in which case solomon sth heel screws , for non inserts, should be long enough. Binding freedom dont even sell pan heads these daysQuote:
Originally Posted by grinch
Attachment 447844
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see what SlideWright or Tognar has
maybe message spyderjon - he’s a master at this sorta stuff
You can find SS M5 hex screws on Amazon.
Also curious if anyone finds a source for longer screws. I'd like to try shimming my Xenic toes (which have an even worse delta) and have the same issue.
I suppose the backup plan is to figure out how to install inserts so I can just use machine screws, but I'm not entirely confident in my ability to redrill the insert holes in the right spot since it sounds like they need to be spot-on and my original toe holes are slightly off (had to put a boot in the binding and torque it a bit while tightening up to get the heel pins to line up).
Have you measured so you know the actual screw length you need?Quote:
Originally Posted by ticketchecker
For alpine pan head screws we have 18 & 28mm. The 28mm screws can be cut, but the thread length is limited. When people want to adjust thickness for shims or cants, I think you are better off simply installing inserts, then you have unlimited choices of screw types and lengths. Otherwise you will be limited in available alpine screw lengths.
Attachment 447940
Trying to avoid inserts on this trial, was hoping to do a quick test of the toe shim to gauge the difference. Ordered some screws with the shims which won’t work. Been too busy to deal with it further.
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go for it
My last shims i bought from skimo co and they came with screws. Maybe they have just the screws? Theyre good with emails
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Found 4x 28mm screws and 4x 26mm screws at a local shop. They all need to be turned down anyways so figured it didn’t make much of a difference. I should have them done by tomorrow and I’ll share. Going to leave about 1 or 2 mm of extra below the binding to prevent from causing any weird point loading but the holes are drilled and now it is just fine tuning on the belt sander.
Glad I checked in this thread, motivating me to finish the shim test project.
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