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When will somebody just tell me which tires to buy?
ABS is pretty tight these days, the early stuff would give you a heart attack I had a GMC truck that would start the sequence if one tire lost traction. Pretty embarrassing to slide through a 4 way in your neighborhood because you hit a patch of wet leaves.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowsparkco
you should buy either snow tires, all seasons, or something in between. Give it time. I have faith this thread will get you sorted out.
I’m thinking of just putting 1 studded snow on my right rear wheel, a regular winter on my left rear, and then all seasons up front, but far narrower and taller then the rear. Should act more like a snowmobile.
I’ve also been thinking of just removing my ABS relays and testing my leg pump speed.
You guys don’t have a tire and wheel quiver?Quote:
Originally Posted by SoVT Joey
1. Stock AS tires (regular driving)
2. Studless snows (packed snow)
3. Studded snows (hard ice)
4. Racing slicks (getting your F&F on)
5. 36” KO2s (bro-dozing your way to Starbucks or Target)
6. Low-pros on 24” chrome spinners (impress the ladies while cruising the loop and crankin the subs)
7. Paddle tires (sand and deep pow)
Clearly you dentists think everybody needs tires that exactly match what they’ll be doing that day, regardless of what their driving conditions or habits may be 99% of the time.
"the correct number of tires is n+4"
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This thread is getting boring, let's talk about your spare wheels. Same size as regular four? Do you swap for snows/studs/spinners/muds or keep it the same year round? Do you rotate all 5 or only 4?
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Im gonna jinx the shit out of myself here, buuuuuttttt....Quote:
Originally Posted by Robik
the only time ive ever gotten a flat was on the way to Crystal for the (assumed) last pow day of the year in April. It was pissing rain and just outside of Greenwater i heard and felt THAT sound/vibration. Fuck. So i pulled off onto a tiny muddy pullout, got out and began changing the tire getting very muddy and sloppy in the process. PITA to get get tires off the underside of the vehicle, but i finally get it off, start using the OEM jack which is a POS, almost kill myself when the car slides in the mud off the jack, jack it up again and replace the blown tire. But, my spare was flat... like 90% flat. Fuck. So i limp the car a couple miles back to greenwater where there is a small gas station. I ask the attendant where the air is, and they say a meth head ripped the hose off and took a sledghammer to the machine trying to get quarters out the other day so its out of service. Fuck... but im not giving up. I think well, i bet the ski shop has a compressor so i limp at 10mph over to the ski shop as my last hope. Old shop guy hears my sob story and says sure ill help you out, but my compressors on the fritz though i do have a tank of compressed air that might be able to get enough air in the tire to make it driveable. So we shoot the full tank in the tire and it fills about 60%. At this point its 1030am and my wife is fucking over it and just wants to drive back to civilization to fill the tire fully, and then go home. I tell here there is no way we are missing the final pow day of the year and limp up to Crystal going 20mph under the speed limit. We ended up getting up to the top right before noon, waited 5 mins and got the rope drop into Northway. Had 6 or 7 freshy laps through there with ride-on lifts. We headed out early to not hold up too much traffic on our way down the hill but made it back to civilization and a real gas station without further drama.
So, moral of the story, make sure your spare is in good shape. Its worth it.
If you have AWD you must have a matching spare and rotate all 5 tires max every 2 weeks. AWD will grenade if a tire is off by 0.5/64". Take my word, ignore your manual.
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Eagerly awaiting the "mount your own fucking tires" thread.
^ lol
Edit: and the inevitable ’yer gonna die!’ responses.
Done it, it is over rated.Quote:
Originally Posted by snowaddict91
Boils down to "check the spare."Quote:
Originally Posted by californiagrown
Which we all learned a few years ago from.... Crass? Digital death? Who was it who was getting ready for his internet tough guy fight?
I had to use the spare on my old ranger and being under the truck it only had 15PSI in it and there was a bear grazing directly on the other side of the road in the middle of nowhere so with my passenger keeping an eye out I changed it up anyway and we drove slowish to a gas station but i figure out of site out of mind so that tire gets neglected and i'm not the first person this happened to
In New England, it's considered best practice to drop it and check condition at least annually, both to ensure the tire is good enough in a pinch and to make sure it hasn't rust welded itself in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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I just pulled a stuck truck out of muddy slushy situation with my wildpeaks yesterday. I still will be putting my winter tires on within the next week but they did what I needed them to in that situation. Pulling up hill even.
First slushy snow event yesterday with the Bridgestone Weatherpeaks on my Subaru. They did great but the AWD helps a lot I am sure. I will run these all winter.
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My GX has a TPMS on the spare. It was super frustrating for a second the first time the light went on and all 4 tires were at the right PSI… but it’s a pretty legit feature.
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A little digging around and these All Weathers by Nokian like the WR G4 are interesting. The Norwegians try and make a decent snow that performs reasonably well in heat and you can run it 40 or 50k. Seems like a pretty lofty goal. I’ve run two sets, all seasons, snows year round, just about any combo you can think of over the years.Quote:
Originally Posted by SoVT Joey
Considered scrapping the stock tires for these and then checked the price. Do OEMs really put 3 hundred dollar tires on a new car or are they some kind of rebrand? I guess I should see how they feel in the snow before throwing them out, but I feel like looking at them they’ll brake like shit. Conti proContact Tx anyone have an opinion?
No experience with the ProContact, but am on my second set of PureContacts. In general, OE tires are not using the best technology, especially with regard to rubber compounds. I think they’re generally overpriced in the aftermarket, probably because a bunch of people will just buy whatever came on their car without having any idea what they’re buying.Quote:
Originally Posted by lowsparkco
Manufacturers, however, are very price concious, and aren’t going to pay for a premium tire if they don’t have to; and they’re certainly getting a cost break on the lower tech tires.
Where you can generally see if this is true is looking at the tire spec traction/temperature/treadwear. OE tires likely compromise there, maybe a B traction, or a lower treadwear rating to achieve an A traction.
Example: ProContact 500/A/A H-rated, PureContact 700/A/A V-rated. Tires are about the same price, but the PureContact is expected to last 40% longer while having similar wet grip, and a higher speed rating. Those specs don’t give a good picture of total performance, just the very basics. My guess would be that the PureContacts perform better in pretty much any metric, maybe besides noise and comfort, but that’s just a guess.
Another example cause my wife’s car needs tires. OE Yokohama tire vs. aftermarket Yokohama tire:Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
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OE is way more expensive, has shit wet grip, and will wear out more than twice as fast.
I've always heard that OEMs will go with the best performing tire without care for how they wear because it makes the test ride better. I just didn't get how they spec a tire that sells new at $300 a tire, but your comment that some consumers will simply replace them because that's what came on the car makes a lot of sense and who knows what the bulk deal gets them.
The issue I'm having is that mine have 25k on them. Not really time to replace them, but hate to scrap them. Want something that is good in the snow, but living in town below the snow line I don't want to run a snowflake tire year round. First world problem.
Despite having the same name, the tires that go on cars as OEM aren't the same as what you buy from a tire shop.
OEMs are after noise, ride and fuel economy.
The tires sold by the manufacturer will generally last longer, likely at the expense of fuel economy.
Maybe take’em up to Canada and see what trade in value they’ll give you towards a new set.Quote:
Originally Posted by lowsparkco
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I got a legitimate “all weather” option for the dudes that refuse winter tires.
https://www.mazamatires.com/openrange/
I have been running this tire for 3 springs/summers with great success. I bet they still have several years in them.
Our ski season on hood lasts longer than the get the studded tire off or get a ticket date, so I wanted a triple peak snowflake still but that could handle my towing needs too.
That link is a pretty damn good tire and a compromise. I also know a lot of people really love the Toyo M55. Same idea a year around tire with a snowflake that handles dry and warm weather driving too.
Can’t tell if trolling….Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
Not trolling. I honestly have these tires on my truck right now. I will swap them for my studded Nokian Hakas soon for the season.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
They handle our early spring snows well and I have had them in wet slushy snow and hard packed near ice shit. They are a good tire. They aren’t as good as the Hakas for real ice or long snow covered drives (I definitely drive slower with them on snow than I do the Hakas), but they are a hell of a lot better than most “all weathers.” Also, they are holding up in lots of summer driving and towing.
I'm sure this is a dead horse topic here, but any personal experience comparisons here between the All Weather passenger car tires for an AWD sedan (Audi A4 in this case) like the Nokian WR G4 vs Performance Winters like the Vredstein Wintrac Pro or the Michelin Pilot Alpin 4?
Living in Philly but stormchasing up to VT and upstate NY as much as possible, had the Continental DWS06 in stock size from when the car was new which were adequate even in deep snow but not ideal braking, but now that they have worn down they wont work for that, so going to swap from the stock 245/40 r 18 to 225/50 r17 on cheap alloys for winter. But the issue is the majority of my driving in the Philly area will still be on dry pavement or rain, the snow capabilities are only for the ski trips for the most part. Ive struggled with this in the past also since the good VT/ NY snow tire can actually be awful for braking and handling here on my daily commute and even on the majority of the drive up the NJ Turnpike / Thruway .