Boissal you seem like somebody who would enjoy a roadtrip to Blackleaf Canyon in Montana.
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Boissal you seem like somebody who would enjoy a roadtrip to Blackleaf Canyon in Montana.
Hot damn, looks like a little slice of Canadian Rockies!Quote:
Originally Posted by yeahman
finally got out (in town)!
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Climbing un-stoke, some POS trashlord lit a giant bonfire under the Red Monster boulder at Ibex and obliterated a couple of classic problems. Ju and Blue Flowers are no more, both beautiful problems on great rock which unfortunately exfloliates its outer layer when exposed to hear. Too bad I never got to send either (not for lack of trying).
Death to the fucktards who go out to the West Desert and see nothing but a wasteland to trash to their hear's content.
https://gripped.com/routes/classic-i...d-by-bon-fire/
fine weather this weekend
at Frenchman Coulee
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i was surprised by the campground
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WA state website said camping was closed
Mother fuckers. Never made it out there but I had hoped to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
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Finally. The new prow. More FAs
First Pic is the direct version from the juggy sit to the right. 6c /v4
"Faith no more"
Second Pic is
The full line to the prow from the sit via lower juggy rail and exit on prow.
7a+ /v6
"And so I watch you from afar"
I didn't manage to do the king line through the roof because I was too tired. (v7/V8) it ends in the same prow exit where I am in the second Pic. Which is v5 in itself as a stand start (called Killswitch engage).
The third Pic is the left side of the prow. Start at the same jug as the other boulders traverse the roof and exit via loong throw from jug in lower left of the Pic to higher jug rail. Then you have just done: Manowar! V5 ish.. pretty morpho.
King line in the third pic traverses out to the right via lower sloper rail into prow exit. Attachment 330177Attachment 330178Attachment 330179
yes, we are allowed off the island and my ankle can bear weight after a stupid bouldering fall a month ago where i missed the pad.
so i visited a dreamy new (to me) crag called montagne d’argent. this place is an outdoor climbing gym in the best way and perfect to get the season restarted. 250 routes, mostly single pitch. low 60s, no bugs, a shade tarp? ok. girlfriend is stoked.
strolled right up to the premier crag 400m from the road and got on the 4 star classic M&M crack (fingers). AMAZING rock quality. Laurentians rock is good anorthosite and this was no exception - excellent little nubs from glaciation and good friction from little crystals but easy on the skin.
There was also an old school 5.7+ that caught me way off guard. beware the plusses! thought i could send with a normal light rack and find some small pro in the crack but it was all 1,2,3,4. no nuts no microcams not pink tricam (gunks raised heh). oops. note to self: stop sucking at wide hands because back cleaning takes the fun out.
we did not miss the excellent 10a at the right that went up a small hand crack to one bolt and then finished for some more jams that i really liked and some spooky sport way left that i was glad not to have led cause steep slab is hard. apparently this spot has a slabby steep 14 that has never seen a repeat in 30 years. not gonna be me.
perhaps the highlight though was getting trounced by this chick who crushed the 12a face climb... i guess the kid can say he climbed 5.12 before he was born.
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such a nice area. lows in the 40s, gonna light a fire and go night swimming and maybe do it again tomorrow. fuck yea! i missed this shit so much!
spotted a nice cliff off a dirt road a few days and went in to investigate. from across the valley it looked steep and overhung like a little waimea, so i went to take another look after work today.
Inspection looked promising so i put the drone up to take a closer look. the eagle is in the air when the owner pulls up to see what we are up to.
we don’t look like we are from around there. i’m hiding the fact that i’m surveilling his property and have long hair and don’t drive a pickup.
this is letterkenny country near the border of ontario.
anyway the guy says we can go have a look if we want to hike it and is super nice but no climbing; doesn’t want the liability.
really had a nice time up there. the cliff has never seen a hammer or cam. all kinds of birds on display, turkeys marching across the field, swallows buzzing.
am i a dick if i go back in a few months to show him some insurance and see if we can have at it? bake some cookies? or just find some other shit cause who cares about this little pink granite rock in the middle of nowhere?
:(
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Of course not, if you do it in a courteous manner and accept "no" if that is what he says. A little dialogue is always a good think, if nothing else you both might learn that long hair or diving a pick up does not make somebody an asshole. I know plenty of people who are and aren't regardless of their transport or grooming habits.
...oh, and you might want to contact "The Access Fund" for advise and to learn about liability issues.
i hear what you’re saying and i wish it was the case but my perspective comes from my experience growing up in the usa and kind of rubs me the wrong way.
from being treated differently cause jewish growing up, shot at as a kid by rednecks who thought it was funny, to being called a faggot from moving cars, i’m gonna continue being wary.
this guy was pretty nice so maybe i should give Canadians a little more benefit of the doubt.
never realized how much PTSD i had from growing up, but i get why my gf from northern alberta has no desire to move back to the usa with me.
I wrote the Legal Primer for Climbing Access for the Access Fund nearly 20 years ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by hutash
Here is a condensed relevant portion: https://www.accessfund.org/uploads/p...ivate-Land.pdf
Shit, I wrote that in 2002.
http://dawnalguard.com/tradgirl/articles/survey2d.pdf
back to FA land, some boulders the size of houses to clean:
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and more where that came from...
MTM: there’s some good stuff in that doc, thanks for posting.
Hey ML, are you aware that there are some areas open to climbing in Harriman now? Maybe next time you visit home you can check the out?
i have fond memories of hiking in harriman. my favorite hike is from iona island up through doodletown and up the timp. the timp would make for awesome multi pitch trad. it’s a shame it’s banned there. you can see the gw and manhattan from the top, as well as the river, yonkers and the bx.
the climbing you’re talking about is maybe by the claudius smith den? people go there to boulder, it has some of the hardest established stuff in ny.
if you haven’t checked it out: the powerlinez in torne valley were opened to climbing. lots of wildlife and a cool vibe if you ever want to look around or get on a rope.
it’s a great park, super lucky to have it so close to nyc for stealth camping, secret rope swings, and more and more climbing i guess.
ashima on nuclear war in harriman:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FOH_HNwRjK0
That one pic reminds me of supercrack in sky top. Ever do that one ML?
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Haha, no. Have you?
This mossy (and shorter) crack is only slightly less iconic than what was the hardest climb in the world in 1970 whatever though! ;)
Of course. Best part is we parked in the golf club lot and I pulled out a set of clubs. We then proceeded to stuff our backpacks with racks and ropes all the while talking to the guys next to us about how the course was playing.
Oh and I didn’t climb it per se as much as the lead did and I greasily pulled myself up the rope and cleaned about 10 large Camelots out as I went.
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Yeah, I was referring to the powerlinez. I haven’t been but it looks cool. I never got past the dabbling/learning phase of climbing myself and it has been years since I did anything at all but I still get a kick out of seeing what other folks are doing. Might be time soon maybe
dawn sesh before the heatwave
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Arty! :D
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this season has been slow because of covid (and skiing and gardening and whatever else), but i finally got the redpoint on "Goldenfinger" in Ferguson canyon in SLC. i was super bummed to blow the onsight - took a fall at the crux - so, stoked to get it clean. not an impressive lead at all, but for me, i was psyched to get it.
nice lead, that looks like a super fun crack!
took a friend up the classic Dulfer in Val D. Really enjoyed it. thank you, mr weissner!
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this guy crushed a 12 next to me while i fell at the crux of my line. was pretty rad. so casual.
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feels pretty good to be out
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Although my 10 yo is a little afraid of heights, he was more than happy to belay his little brother over the wknd at City of Rocks. Pretty cool to see.
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