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Is yours the "Drive-E" turbo 4per chance? If I'm not mistaken, I believe the oil consumption/ring issues were mostly with those early drive-e motors, whereas the later years of the 3.2 inline 6 were some of the best of that engine's history. I've heard the 3.0 T6 was fantastic too around that timeframe.Quote:
Originally Posted by skuff
3.2 straight six is a very dependable motor
2.5 turbo is pretty bomb proof as well if you keep up on the oil changes and let it cool down
Changing the oil pan after 100k or so is not a bad idea
The weak spot in the motor is the turbo and oil clots
My family and I run the 3.2 and on our second 2.5 turbo
I have been told to run away from the new ones. They all share the same motor and I am aware of a really horrific purchase that met vermonts lemon law and was returned
I bought a laptop from this guy: https://diaglaptops.com/wp/Quote:
Originally Posted by AdironRider
Kickass little setup. I ended up with an old Toughbook he refurbed and it's pretty much a dealer rig. I bought a used dealer Dice unit off of someone from the Swedespeed forums but you can get a Chinese clone unit from a variety of sources, including the aforementioned laptop guy. He can basically set you up with a totally turnkey setup for all your future maintance needs. Trust me. It is WELL worth it. Has easily saved me thousands.
Yes, you'll want to reset that TCM or whatever it is. For a great how-to video on the service, follow this one (and all his other excellent videos for other routine maintenance):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAb9p8Wph-M
Honestly, the car's still out there running on original axles and what not. Nothing drivetrain related ever gave me any trouble whatsoever. I think the angle gear is something to look out for. For top reliability, I've heard it's a good idea to do the angle gear and rear diff fluid change around each 100K or so. Was just about to knock all those little services out but then got the other car, so never got around to them.Quote:
Originally Posted by CallMeAl
What's the newest car your rig works for ? I have a 07 xc70 and just picked up a 14 s60 so it's time for me to seriously consider vida.
Pretty sure it work through 2015 and some 2016s. Perhaps more depending on the platform. Doesn't work on any of the newer SPA platforms AFAIK.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatnslow
When I did that hudge valve replacement job on that project '13 S60, Vida was invaluable. Held my hand through most the process. ESPECIALLY for when the job was done and there were the inevitable kinks to work out after redoing just about everything under the hood.
The car is a 5 cylinder turboQuote:
Originally Posted by MontuckyFried
I'll ask the mechanic if there's any way to bump up some horsepower while they're in there :smile:
Pulled the trigger on the computer / vida setup. Dealer wanted something crazy like 700 bucks to do the fluid changes so it basically paid for itself already on the first go round.
Road force balance helped the death wobble, but didn't cure it. So weird how it comes and goes as I'm driving.
Having Autoworks in 4c look at it next week on your previous rec, Montucky.
Right on! I credit them for getting me down the path of the CORRECT maintenance schedule, ie routine trans fluid changes. Been years since I've gone there, but they used to know the vehicle really well. Hopefully that's still the case. They also typically have some pretty sweet cars in the shop so I trusted them with my lowly wagon. Their Porsche techs were the real deal.Quote:
Originally Posted by CallMeAl
Doe vida include all factory manuals ? I'm not sure if it's just the comm/software or everything including the factory manuals.
Yes. It basically IS the factory manual. Has diagrams, part numbers, step-by-step instructions, and all the diagnostic stuff you would ever need. I didn't realize just how easy the dealer techs had it until I had it. Having Vida is the ultimate cheat code for us DIY'ers. I REALLY wish I could find something similar for Mercedes. At least I can still use it for my C30.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatnslow
What the difference between the two different laptops other than brand preference? I'm a cheap bastard and won't be doing anything beyond some fairly simple stuff. Probably going to pay to get the timing belt done on the 14 s60 2.5. it's the wife's new car and I don't want to take any chance of fucking it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by MontuckyFried
It's mostly preference. They're pretty much exactly the same functionally. I wanted the Toughbook because my uninsulated garage gets hot as balls most the year but of course chilly in the winter, and I know that laptop is built for extreme conditions. It's what we used in the military and if it's good enough for desert duty, it's good enough for my use. Haha. If you won't be working in 120+ degree heat like I usually get stuck doing, then you'll be fine with the cheapest one available. That guy guarantees them all either way.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatnslow
Having done two of them now, I'm pretty familiar and know all the tricks, BUT the job's no joke and requires some special tools like this camshaft locking tool, VVT seal installation tool, etc. You can absolutely do it, but no shame in having a shop do it either if you don't feel comfortable with the possibility of screwing things up. But make sure it's a shop who REALLY knows the platform. Do NOT leave it to Joe Blow shadetree guy.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatnslow
That all said, I felt the S60 (P3 platform) timing belt was WAY easier than the same motor on my C30 (P1). Tons more room to work with on the belt side. Still a pretty big job, though. Especially with all the odds and ends of "while you're in there" bits, ie water pump, all new hoses, misc. seals, etc. Perhaps I went overboard but I did EVERYTHING I could while I was in there since while I had it torn down to that level, all those things are much easier to get to AND makes for only 1 trip diving in there for the next 100K or so. YMMV.
I feel like I got the car at a fair enough price with 31k miles so I can throw some money at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MontuckyFried
My only TB experience has been Honda V6's so don't really want to mess up the wife's new ride. Maybe I'll think differently after taking a close look at the manual. I have seen FCP videos and it actually doesn't seem too bad of a job compared to the Honda but don't want to fuck up the newest car in the fleet.
My Ukrainian guy is very fair so I'll need to check on price.
Only 31K?! Shoot. Well that certainly changes things. Smart man changing the timing belt due to time not miles. It can definitely fail due to that. However, since my S60 was at about 100K, I ended up replacing motor mounts and just about everything else I could. You likely won't have to do all that so should save you a ton of time and parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatnslow
Since you're planning on doing the timing belt due to age, ALSO make sure to swap the other belts too. I think it was simply an accessory belt and a tiny little alternator belt. On mine, it was actually a simple little accessory belt that snapped, got wrapped around the crank pulley (and axle), causing the timing belt to skip and kablooey! Mangled valves. The seller was REALLY regretting not doing his belts in time. Poor guy.
Also, due to time (not mileage), go ahead and plan on doing fluid swaps all the way around. Use Volvo brand OEM coolant from the dealer. These cars are finicky about that. Since it's a concentrate you dilute 1:1 with distilled water though, it ends up being cheaper than the stuff you'll find at Autozone. Of course do engine oil and ATF too if they haven't been done recently.
I was going to get the TB/both acc sort belts at shop . Then diy coolant, at,ps,brake fluid diy. Need to figure out what fluid this thing takes. It's a 14 so not sure what at fluid to use.Quote:
Originally Posted by MontuckyFried
I don't usually do a full flush on brake and os fluid, just suck out the reservoir and replace followed by another one in a week or so.
It's 10 years old but essentially new, never wrecked for $12k. Ideally you ant a wagon but it was too good to pass up. Tiny trunk and no spare but it should be good for 12-15 years since my wife hardly drives.
Sinking another 8k into my old sled. I just can’t seem to let it go. Fucking abusive relationship I tell you.
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Ufda, Art. That's the sign of true love.Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Shirk
Remember, it only hurts you because it loves you.
I’m going to officially rename my car to an ex girlfriend that was an absolute minx but also ended up being pure evil.
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bravoQuote:
Originally Posted by Art Shirk
I think we have the same car. How many miles is yours and what has been your outlay over the years. I’ve done random stuff that comes up as is customary with an old German, but did timing chain and tensioners awhile back for a decent penny. So this is a new kick in the nuts I wasn’t exactly expecting for a car with less than 100k on the clock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
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+1 on the accessory belt change on the Volvos
My guy (Aldo knows him): I couldn't get the accessory belt in time to finish your car. Make sure you get that changed ASAP. You don't need to bring that back to me; any hack can do that (his shop is over an hour away from me).
Me: OK (and then promptly forgot)
3 months later: accessory belt failed and did exactly what Montucky described. Except...I was just idling down a dirt road when it happened; no load on the engine at all. Had it towed to my local Volvo dealer in Keene, NH (they're actually not total thieves like the dealer in Burlington, VT). SM said: "I don't know how this happened but you did no damage to anything. You should go buy a lottery ticket."
Yup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Shirk
My first S4 avant, a 2006, caught fire after mice had nibbled the wiring. It had 160k on it and was burning a quart of oil every 1000 miles.
So, I found a 2008 with 100k miles that was about the same on oil consumption for $11k. I lucked into finding a brand new v8 for $8k, bought it and installed it for another $8k with new clutch and aa few other fresh bits. Thus, I got my dream sled for $27k with a fresh engine and a stick on which I've now got 30k miles.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...2&d=1636342843
Still have a black 2006 V70R with a stick and 160k miles, plus a 1999 manual A4 avant with 210k.
Good friend in Philly just told me about his I think 15 xc60 2.5t - accessory belt let go and took out the timing belt - [emoji95] bent valves! Less than 60 on clock!!Quote:
Originally Posted by MyNameIsAugustWest
Ouch!