So attach a Parktool bike stand clamp to the Exoskeleton arm, and work on bikes anywhere in the house?
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So attach a Parktool bike stand clamp to the Exoskeleton arm, and work on bikes anywhere in the house?
The time has come and I need to just get myself a deraileur hanger alignment tool. Do I need to spend or can I get some Amazon cheapo?
I’ve got a Park DAG. It’s got enough free play in the arm that I usually throw up my arms in frustration knowing my alignment will always be off.
So I’d say it’s probably worth trying an Amazon/AliXpress version.
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I have the ZTTO from aliexpress and I can't recommend it. It uses a round shaft which makes it impossible to keep the rim-feeler end aligned. Mine doesn't have much play elsewhere, but I find it is very hard to be precise given a slight rotation is enough to put you out of spec.
The Abbey tool also has a freely rotating feeler, but the difference is that they mount the feeler in the CENTER. That way your minimum distance is always "straight". With the ZTTO, the feeler is offset, so that the minimum distance occurs past perpendicular and is dependent on location which sort of defeats the purpose.
To that end, I think I'd rather have one of the other designs that has a flat spot/non-round shaft that prevents the feeler from rotating. There are several of those now including knockoffs of the Park DAG-2. Don't see any knockoffs of the newer DAG-3 (or the Abbey).
The Abbey tool is worth the $$. the Park DAG-2 has some tolerance issues, but the newer DAG-3 is suppose to be way better, but I have no experience using that new tool. The old measurement standard was that the DAG-2 rod needed to be within 4mm of the rim to be in tolerance. So +/-2 mm. I feel that that was 10 years ago and the tolerance has tightened up a bit since 12s.
when I used the park at a shop it was easy enough to get it exact I didnt even have to twiddle the adjusters An alignmnet tool would be nice but usually I just use a sharp cresent wrench to do a forming adjustment and sight down the chain form 3 ft back
Question for peeps who have used the Park Tools sealant injector (TSI-1): how well does it work for removing sealant? Does it get clogged with bits of dried sealant or no?
(I use both regular Stan's and Orangeseal FWIW.)
I have it, it seems to get about 90% of wet sealant puddled at the bottom of a tire. I've been running regular Stans lately and haven't had any clumps in it, so can't say how it handles clogs. The straw is pretty thin though, so I'm guessing if your sealant of choice develops Stanimals that will be a problem. If you use regular valves with removable cores, it's a pretty tidy way of getting new sealant in after you seat the bead. I'm using Filmores now so I have to use a Stan's syringe that fits over the outside of the valve to fill, which inevitably dribbles all over the stem threads and wheel.
The bees knees of valves. Have put them on every build I've done since I discovered them. https://www.ethirteen.com/products/q...bBtkuDkl-TTPJZ
Anyone with experience using Halder mallets or similar alternatives such as Wiha or Gedore?
Strong opinions on head size (30/40/50) and aluminum vs cast iron? I am leaning towards an aluminum Halder in a 30 or 40 with the 2 and 4 hardness heads but am open to thoughts otherwise.
Current job is persuading an axle in a 30 y/o WI rear hub but I am sure I will find lots more once I have the mallet in hand.
I just ordered a reach adjust headset for my clapped out old DH bike.
Opinions on tapping the cups in vs pressing them in?
For reference, I don't have a headset press, but would probably make one with threaded rod and washers if I go that route. And something tells me pressing in an eccentric cup won't actually go super well since the pressures won't be symetrical.
The internet doesn't like to acknowledge tapping as a viable option.
it CAN work, but using a propper tool is ALWAYS a better bet. But if that is not avail to you, then tapping them in can work. A block of wood between the hammer and headset can help protect it
I have Halder Simplex 21oz 40mm soft face hammer and I really like the size for bike work. It came with soft and mid faces and those have worked for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by ghosthop
"" For reference, I don't have a headset press, but would probably make one with threaded rod and washers if I go that route. ""
yeah I've done this using a long bolt with some big washers and it worked Ok if one were doing it all the time the proper tool would be better but how often do you instal head sets ?
One time
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I think some large bolts & washers cost me 6 $ at a building supply and I only used them once you could also take it to an LBS and have them do it
I have never done it not too sure about pounding in a headset with a hammer & block of wood but that would probably also work ?
I have a park headset press, but before i did that I used to use a thread rod and washers. hHard to keep the headset straight with that but it works if you ware careful.
Never tried to tap them in. Doest feel like it would be great for the frame - not where you are pushing in the ehadset, but the rest of the frame that's taking pressure. Cause it usually takes a lot of pressure to slot it in.
To be clear, this is not a glass slipper from Cinderella, this is a 2018 alloy DH bike that was rode hard, put up wet, molested by your uncle, chewed on by your dog, dragged behind the car when you got hitched.
Edit to add this from Kwiland
https://www.firstcomponents.com/reach-adjust-headset/
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Yeah they are talking about hammering it in which would probably work I've just never done it myself and I still got the press I made from hardware store stuff
jm2e:
2x4 chunk and a hammer on a greased cup will get you the results you want. If you want to get really fancy a 2x4 and a DeWalt trigger clamp will get you a square pressing motion. One side at a time.