I've had good luck with the e13 9-46 11 speed. Same range as a 12 speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
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I've had good luck with the e13 9-46 11 speed. Same range as a 12 speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
Probably still bent. Go to a shop, they have a tool to check and fix alignment (you can buy it but it's like $80 so easier to just go to a shop). Or just get another hanger if it's replaceable.Quote:
Originally Posted by GiBo
Also check for chain wear, could be unrelated to the crash.
I site down the chain line from low/3 feet behind the bike and have always been able to straighten a bent der hanger
The shop tool is nice but its gona cost to have a shop do it SO just get a new hanger which should fix your problem and then you will have a spare hanger which is a good thing
sometimes it works to take the hanger off and hammer it flat
That's exactly what just happened to my kids bike. Tough to tell how bent the hanger is without that tool...for us anyway...and his chain was toast. The other thing is you need to straighten your wheel for the hanger tool to work properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by teledad
I'll have to try that next time. The other thing we learned was to insert your hex tool into the derailleur bolt and use that to bend er in the field...or at home I guess. We always are bending somewhat randomly assuming it almost always bent inward.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
What cassette do you have? Can you modify it?Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
I have a OneUp 44 on my XX1 cassette. Shift step is 32-36-44. Shifts great.
I also have a Wolftooth 44 on a XX1 cassette. Shift step is 32-36-44. It shifts great too. They also make a 46.
My wife’s bike has a OneUp 47 on a Shimano M8000 cassette. The shift steps are 37-42-47.
The 2 XX1s are shifted by XX1 derailures.
The M8000 is shifted by a XTR.
40% of the new hangers are not straight and need to be aligned once installed on a bike.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Your wheel could be crazy out of true and the tool will still work. You just need to rotate the wheel and measure the derailleur alignment tool on the same part of the wheel. I personally line the derailleur hanger tool up with the rim at the valve stem, and rotate the wheel and make my 6 o'clock, 9 o'clock, 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock measurements all against the same spot on the rim, at the valve stem.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
IME the further back/ the lower you get behind the bike the easier it is to eyeball how bent the der hanger isQuote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
the der hanger is usually bent inwards from tagging a rock or crashing the bike or even just other bikes being piled on it, so you gotta take the der off to screw in the park tool for use which will get it straight in one try or If I don't have the tool I would just use a cresent wrench to eyeball/ form the der hanger which might take a couple of attempts but does the same thing
If you don't even need to adjust the cable tension after forming the der hanger that is an indication that you got the hanger straight
In training at IBM they told us " we are charging a lot of money here so you never bend anything ... you form it
well i usually just bend them straight or smash with a hammer, havent done it in awhileQuote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I had one of those northshore hangerbangers on my last bike and the X9 der stayed straight
I'm guessing you all are using them, but anyone have a SRAM XX1 x-sync 30t chainring for sale?
Might as well ask before I buy.
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Replacement for a steel hardtail:
Short travel to compliment sb165:
Ripley
Spur
Trance
Ti Hardtail.
thoughts?
Thanks all. Ordered a hanger. I bent this one back with a big crescent wrench. Kinda tripping on the fact that 40% of hangers aren't straight. Seems like a pretty easy part to make within spec. We'll see how it goes.
Park DAG
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SS Ti hardtail 29” or gravel bike.Quote:
Originally Posted by volklpowdermaniac
[QUOTE=jm2e;6017355]Park DAG
This.
Clean shifting is a pleasure. Shit gets bent. $80 tool eliminates guesswork and downtime. Should last a lifetime. Owning one will likely be cashflow positive over the life of the tool.
Go to a shop that has a rear derailer hanger tool. It goes on to the hanger and has a bar that measures the distance from the hanger to the rim. I recently spent two hours thinking I had a hanger straight, and not picking up every gear clean. Guy bent it back with one of these tools in about 45 seconds and it has been perfect since. I now have a back up hanger for each bike. I wasted two hours trying to get that freakin thing right and for the cost of a six pack, they fixed it in an instant.Quote:
Originally Posted by GiBo
Attachment 333235
the screw inside my front brake lever gradually works its way forward like this over time, which brings the lever very close to my knuckles. is this just a result of me riding the brakes like a bitch? something wrong? my "fix" so far was to take a pair of needle nose pliars and pinch the end and twist it the other way, but that takes forever, and eventually it works its way forward again.
easy fix? shop? Im gunna die? my shop has a long-ass wait so I'm inclined toward DIY if it's feasible. fwiw I screwed it back in place and the brake works fine (the brake seems to work fine even when the lever is close to the bar, but I feel like if I just let the screw go then eventually I won't have enough range to activate the brake... also it's annoying/uncomfortable). tektro hd m275 brakes fwiw, which are otherwise great.
Try loctite blue first.
Then red.
Then, as a last resort, green. (Not actually recommended)
Any shop that actually charges you to perform that 2 minute check doesn't deserve your (or anyone's) business.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
It’s a standard GX 11 speed so I don’t believe I can modify it or replace any cogs. I may be wrong but don’t think it’s possible. Having an XD driver limits cassette options but e13 and Garbaruk make good, but pricey, wide range options as long as my X1Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
derailleur can handle the 46t bail out gear. Still cheaper than a new new wide range 12 speed set up.
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e13 also has a 9-42 version if you don't want to risk the derailleur not clearing a 46t gear. Would need to pair with a smaller chainring to gain any more low-end though
ya and so what if its not a bent der, what if it still skips cuz the whole drive train is fucked, the bike store missed out on $$/ business and the endloser is unhappy cuz the bike ain't fixed ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
A shop has to make money for the owner and provide great service to the customer, SO the bike should go in a shop stand with the customer watching/inputing to pinpoint what is fucked, fill out a work order, get a phone # maybe attempt to upsell the customer some shit and put the bike in the to-be-fixed rack cuz there are paying customers 2+ weeks ahead of this one
the shop that doesn't do this ^^ all properly won't be in business for very long ... then you got NO bike shop
My buddy told me the shop wants 67$ for a tuneup which will be weeks away so do I want to make 67$ and BTW there is lots of business to be had cuz bike stores are going crazy rihgt now ? So I replaced her cable & housing/ tweeked her der hanger which will probably get me a nice bottle of wine
On the test ride I decided I had over formed that hanger with the vice grips so I threw it on the ground and stepped on the der ... perfect form !
A non-mechanically inclined but cheap as shit buddy asked me to look at his drivetrain yesterday after it developed some random chain slap. The clutch on his Shimano XT M8100 derailleur seems to be fucked, I haven't opened it to check but the switch has very little resistance and feels like it's not connected to anything (unlike on my derailleur where flipping the switch requires some force and I can clearly feel something moving in the clutch assembly). I also don't feel any difference in tension between the on/off position.
I found a number of vids on clutch rebuilds and it seems like the parts are cheap. Worth a rebuild it or should I tell him to just buy a new derailleur and endure the bitching??
The clutch requires frequent service, and Shimano nexus specific grease. If the clutch seized and the derailleur was forced down it would have snapped off the plastic bracket that hold the tensioner bolt. This has been a common problem on the 8100's. They have only been on the market less than a year (actually officially since June 14th 2019) so it should be cover under warranty, problem is there are none in stock for warranty replacement.
There are still some SLX M7100 available. For $75 I'd buy a SLX and have the shop warranty (backorder the XT) the old one.
OK thanks, I guess I'll open the clutch and see if anything is obviously broken. If not I'll service/reinstall and see if it's working otherwise I'll have him get a replacement. There are still some for sale online it seems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I owned a bike shop. If a customer thought his der hanger was bent I would throw it on the stand, pull the der, and check the hanger. Total time about 4 minutes. Doing easy stuff like that for free gains customers and reputation. Plus, you have the oppotunity to sell a der hanger if bent, or a tune if not.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
key word owned
Thats the bike shop spiral. You have to recognize your clientele. Things that dont cost you and hain customers are things like that. A couple minutes goes a long way. Chances are they circle around the shop or block and come back and by a t shirt or something while the hanger is getting checked.
Another good one is to send back ,potential customers, warrantee stuff. Its ez to include it in the bike shops warrantee return shipments when those shipments happen. Costs zero and gains customers.
Shops with new bikes that are 2 and 3 years old stock are a sure sign of failure. Give a deal. Get them off the floor. Gain some degree of customer loyalty. Those same shops that nickle and dime and never give a deal get tighter and tighter as their customer base drops. Its like dominoes. A vicious cycle. Its a taxing and tiring business. I have empathy for shop owners and shop rats but the bottom line is happy customer, happy business.
Another mistake i see shops making is not stocking parts. You have to know your market and stock the right stuff. Especially now as bike sales are going crazy and distributords are low on stock. Invest in your business now with your added income. Buy additional stock on things that are guaranteed to sell. Make that added income work for you and multiply profit and keep the customer flow so they dont have to go online
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For brake bleed kits (for Shimano) what does the black device do - I get what all the other pieces are for.
After you slide the hose on the bleeder, slide that over the hose/bleeder. Locks everything in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by bennymac
thanks Roxtar but I mean the black device in the upper right side of the photoQuote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
The speed clamp? I've never used one but maybe for holding the brake lever depressed?
speed clamp - ok Thanks! that may help. I see this "Shimano professional brake bleed kit" for sale many places but nowhere I could find names the parts included - nor does any youtube or website instructions show this device being used. Even now googling "brake bleed speed clamp" doesn't turn up anything. Guess it's probably not a necessary piece.
Older shimano brakes where you had to remove the master cyl cover. This clamp formed a seal after you removed the cover and had a port for the funnel.Quote:
Originally Posted by bennymac
thanks Roxtar! Mystery solved. CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
Zip tie
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Or any rubber band, you would just have to disasssemble one end of the shock to slip it on. But a zip tie is easier.
Measure the bottom bracket height unsagged and then sagged. Use calculus to determine the leverage ratio of your suspension at your desired sagged percentage, then divide the difference in your bottom bracket heights by that leverage ratio to determine the amount your shock has moved. Divide that number by your shock stroke to determine your sag.Quote:
Originally Posted by MCS5280
Or just use a zip tie like a quitter.
Though it was working fine, I thought I'd "service" my no-name floor pump after 20 years of use, so I dipped the plunger in a bit of STP oil treatment. Mistake! Now the plunger just slides down the bore w/o compressing any air into the hose. I cleaned it off and tried some sticky, stringy wheel bearing grease but same result. So, until I can source a Birzman Fatty stateside, what can I do to get this working again? Soaking it in some power steering fluid with leak-stopping seal swelling additive is my best guess. I'd really rather not have to rely on the old small-bore Silca. FWIW, it's ot the o-ring style plunger, but rather the type that has the concave side facing down to compress.
I went to the building supply store, bought a new O-ring, take the lower shoc mount bolt off and put the new O -ring on the shockQuote:
Originally Posted by MCS5280