Printable View
Actually, the 346 replaced the 242, which I never had the pleasure of running--it was a tad smaller displacement and even higher rpm that the14,700 peak rpm 346 old edition.
The 257, and later the 357XP replaced the 254. I had a 154, same as the 254 pretty mcuch, which was awesome in its day. I now run a woods ported 357XP, which will walk all over a stock 460 Stihl, 440, or a 372 Husky.
Hah, I had a Jonsy 920 Super , loved it..but replaced it with my first 066 Magnum Stihl, which was lighter and faster. Traded the 920 for a woods port job on my 3120 Husky...which now prolly is putting out in the neighborhood of 13 horsepower! Love running it with a 9 tooth sprocket and 20 inch bar, whichI only do for fun or at logging shows--- I once got to run that combo with a friend's race chain.....now that was some speed! gotta get a a couple race chains made for different saws...but they cost at least $150 to have made.Quote:
Originally Posted by wicked_sick
I just got the only Jonsered that I've had in years, a little climbing saw,same as my Husky 338's....love the red and black!
My new chainsaw!
http://www.stihlusa.com/graphics/chainsaws/MS290.gif
I looked at the Husqvarna 455 rancher, but liked the Stihl better. A little more power and it felt better. Price was about the same and I really like Stihl.
Not as powerfull as the 310 my father has, but it should work well enough for me. I stuck with the 16 inch bar because I just felt more comfortable with it over the 18 inch bar. I'll have to bend over a little more when cutting, but I like the way it swings better than with the 18 inch bar.
Now all I need is the permit from the forest service and I'm good to go.
Is this chain a 'full comp'. I can't tell :) And the cutting pitch seems all weird.
I picked up a Stihl 290 a few months ago, and I've been fairly pleased. Only thing I've noticed is that after I've been running it for a bit and I put it down to move some stuff around or whatever, it likes to die if I let it idle for too long. And sometimes, it is a bitch to start - seems like there's so much compression that it's hard to overcome it with the pull chain. Then, next pull, it will fire right up. Any ideas?
A guy that was sposed to be milling this tree I had to cut up showed up with his Stihl MS880 w/ 48" bar :eek: :eek:
^ sic photos...
rbtree or others: any recommendations of places in the lower 48 to send saws to get modded? I could do muffler mods myself but what else do they do? Port/polish? Re-jet? We have a Stihl 021 that's getting pretty tired and a 260 that doesn't feel as strong as it once did. Thinking that rather than just take them in for a tune-up (What do they even do? Clean carb and sharpen chain?) I could have them turned up a bit as well.
BTW love the 260, good power/balance/weight tradeoffs. Bought it on the testimonial that it's the saw of choice of many power line crews (16" bar cutting from a cherry picker) and even with a 20" bar it's tough to make it bog down. Was really happy to have it after Katrina!
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/...1827.sized.jpg
Nice pics MT.Quote:
Originally Posted by MT
These make me want to start a discussion on the virtues of the Humboldt undercut:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i.../DSC00398a.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...T/Montana2.jpg
And this one makes me go WTF?!?! Glad you (or whoever) survived that shitshow, it looks like that burned-thu snag is about to stomp a mud-puddle in your/his chest:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...Sam-Idahoa.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...MT/Wedding.jpg
^Just plain cool.
Check the carb fuel mix:Quote:
Originally Posted by Big E
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=86420
I'll throw out some love for the Stihl 260.
I worked groundsman with a climber for almost a year and we use the 260 daily for almost 90% of our work. He climbed with one and I worked the ground trimming with one. We beat on them pretty hard in everything from major rain to slush and snow and they never skipped a beat. Kept them oil'd gas'd and sharp and they never let us down.
I ran a stihl 290 most of the summer. I liked it, good weight, lacked some power on bigger trees and i had some issues with vapor lock when it was super hot out. But, it had way less problems than a husky i used a little bit
What? the circumfrance is shorter on a smaller bar, which means it will travel around the bar faster for any given RPM. Ive also used 460s with 8 drivers on hardwoods with no issue either.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
[quote]
"Full house" refers to a cutter every drive link. No stock chain come this way. "Full comp" is the correct term. I run full comp on 16-24" bars, semi-skip on 24-28", and full skip on 28-72" bars. [quote]
Huh? most saws come stock with full comp saftey chain. Full comp is better for nonprofessional use since it doesn't kick back as much as semi/full skip chain.
On almost every saw I have ran, full skip cuts faster. It really has more to do with square vs round vs chipper cutters than how many there is.Quote:
Also, the fastest chain usually is full comp, if the saw has enough power to pull it, as it has a bit more drag that full skip. Full skip is best for long bars in softwoods, as the chips are cleared more easily. Most of us west coast cutters like skip as it is faster to sharpen-less cutters.
A longer bar=less double cutting...and if your not logging, why cut low stumps anyways?Quote:
Also, if you're cutting a stump low, bar length is irrelevant as to how much you have to bend over. I'm usually down on my knees for stump cuts.
Its kinda silly to run a 460 with anything less than a 28" dont you think?Quote:
Originally Posted by carpathian
[QUOTE=boredboiseboy;1991778]What? the circumfrance is shorter on a smaller bar, which means it will travel around the bar faster for any given RPM. Ive also used 460s with 8 drivers on hardwoods with no issue either.
[quote]
"Full house" refers to a cutter every drive link. No stock chain come this way. "Full comp" is the correct term. I run full comp on 16-24" bars, semi-skip on 24-28", and full skip on 28-72" bars.A few things......Quote:
Huh? most saws come stock with full comp saftey chain. Full comp is better for nonprofessional use since it doesn't kick back as much as semi/full skip chain.
On almost every saw I have ran, full skip cuts faster. It really has more to do with square vs round vs chipper cutters than how many there is.
A longer bar=less double cutting...and if your not logging, why cut low stumps anyways?
Bar length has nothing to do with chain speed, which is determined by the sprocket count, chain pitch, and operating rpm......If you are running that 460 as it came stock, and it is less than 6-7 years old, it will be faster with a 7 tooth sprocket on any bar over 25 inches....all recent stock Stihls are gutless till the horribly restricted mufflers are ported...and they run hot and won't last as they should--all thanks too the EPA and their crap regulations. Because of them, I'm stocking up on saws, as by 2010, saws as we know them will be dinosaurs.
Chipper chain (fully rounded cutters) is a thing of the past. Semi-chisel is the term for today's slightly rounded cutters. Chisel comes square or round filed, square being about 8% faster. Full skip is only faster on long bars in softwood, as the cutter configuration aids in chip clearance. This point is confirmed by saw racers who use full comp. Full skip could be a tad faster for small underpowered saws as it takes a bit less hp to spin it....but small saws shouldn't be running anything over 20 inch bars......and usually .325 pitch chain.
Oh, and we do residential tree work, which includes logging. So, we cut low stumps...as in all the way down.....to save stump grinder work, or cause the customer wants them that way.....or we leave wildlife snags....
Some of da quiver....and crew....Cowboy Dave on the right....faster than me, and the best and fastest arborist at removals I've ever seen, and I've worked with a couple of world champion arborists......Mickey in the middle, a stellar arborist at working on a rope...the best pruner I've ever had....and Herb, the sad faced customer, who spent nearly $20,000 to cut these trees down and re landscape, all because he cut a few roots (te trees weren't his) to build his garage. The three lombardy poplars were in Ballard, 148 feet tall, 6 to 7 feet on the butt, 20 feet between the houses....some of the most technical work we've done of late.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3210/...caeb495e_o.jpg
Here's a link to a slide show of the whole job...it wuz fun!!!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rbtree/...51192509/show/
Nope it isn't......all depends on wood sizes. Most of us westcoasters run long bars....loggers especially, don't want to be bending over bucking or bumping knots. Easterners typically run shorter bars, cutting predominately hardwood, which require much less tedious limbing of multiple small branches as do conifers.Quote:
Originally Posted by boredboiseboy
Personally, as I climb, I like relatively short bars and light, woods modded saws in a tree. My ported 346 and 5100S Dolmars (both in the same class as the venerable 026/260 Stihl, but a lot better saws) will keep up with stock saws 2 pounds heavier (044 441 class saws)
I've run my woods ported 3120, which is putting out in the neigborhood of 13 horsepower, with a 20 inch bar and 9 tooth sprocket at some logging shows. That's fast, but if I had a race chain, it'd be 30% faster!!
Here we were taking a failed hemlock off a deck...and I'm playing with the little Dolmar, shortly after I had it ported, and was running it on a pipe!
won't embed?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWm-GFbAHMk
..........Quote:
Originally Posted by khakis
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...Sam-Idahoa.jpg
what the holy fuck?!?!?! :eek::eek::eek::eek:
He's getting ready to beat feet outta there....the burned snag will push the one he's cutting.
The fella who helped me fall the pecker pole 2/3 through this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2wMdGPEPfc used to be a hotshot. USFS Class C Certified by the man himself D Dougas Dent who wrote "Professional Timber Falling" Now he's an arborist/logger/trainer---who shoulda gone down to Baton Rouge last week to do hurricane work. I know companies there making upwards of 30,000 a day there right now. We're too busy to go, but I'd have liked to.
A muffler mod is plenty for most occasional saw users....It will perk up a saw by as much as 40% in reduced cut times....but the carb will need readjusting.Quote:
Originally Posted by khakis
Woods porting invloves decking the cylinder to reduce squish and increase compression, increasing the intake, exhaust and transfer ports (some or all) carefully, perhaps carb and timing changes.....cost normally $250 and up.
Go to arboristsite.com, racesaws.com, and chainsawperformance.com to read scads of stuff and find some builders.....
sweet thanks
The Humboldt is good for allowing the butt to slide down off the stump, which can be helpful for a few reasons-- to lessen chances of the butt coming back over the stump, which can also help keep breakage down. A stepped up backcut is helpful as well, which wasn't employed in the photo, prolly cause it wasn't necessary. And the log wasn't being cut to sell, so no need to get a square butt. Hence the conventional cut, and high stump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
The Humboldt is good for allowing the butt to slide down off the stump, which can be helpful for a few reasons-- to lessen chances of the butt coming back over the stump, which can also help keep breakage down. A stepped up backcut is helpful as well, (aka stump shot) which wasn't employed in the photo, prolly cause it wasn't necessary. And the log wasn't being cut to sell, so no need to get a square butt. Hence the conventional cut, and high stump.Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
rbtree, that video is pretty fucking awesome.
I hope you make a shit ton of money. :eek:
[QUOTE=rbtree;1991821][QUOTE=boredboiseboy;1991778]What? the circumfrance is shorter on a smaller bar, which means it will travel around the bar faster for any given RPM. Ive also used 460s with 8 drivers on hardwoods with no issue either.
Lets put it this way.Quote:
"Full house" refers to a cutter every drive link. No stock chain come this way. "Full comp" is the correct term. I run full comp on 16-24" bars, semi-skip on 24-28", and full skip on 28-72" bars.
A few things......
Bar length has nothing to do with chain speed, which is determined by the sprocket count, chain pitch, and operating rpm......If you are running that 460 as it came stock, and it is less than 6-7 years old, it will be faster with a 7 tooth sprocket on any bar over 25 inches....all recent stock Stihls are gutless till the horribly restricted mufflers are ported...and they run hot and won't last as they should--all thanks too the EPA and their crap regulations. Because of them, I'm stocking up on saws, as by 2010, saws as we know them will be dinosaurs.
Chipper chain (fully rounded cutters) is a thing of the past. Semi-chisel is the term for today's slightly rounded cutters. Chisel comes square or round filed, square being about 8% faster. Full skip is only faster on long bars in softwood, as the cutter configuration aids in chip clearance. This point is confirmed by saw racers who use full comp. Full skip could be a tad faster for small underpowered saws as it takes a bit less hp to spin it....but small saws shouldn't be running anything over 20 inch bars......and usually .325 pitch chain.
Oh, and we do residential tree work, which includes logging. So, we cut low stumps...as in all the way down.....to save stump grinder work, or cause the customer wants them that way.....or we leave wildlife snags....
A 28" has a 91 driver chain. A 32" has a 102 driver chain. For the chain to make one full revolution on a 28" chain, an 8 link driver has to spin 11.3 revolutions to make the chain go around once. A 32" bar has to spin 12.75 times. A shorter chain will spin faster! at 13000 engine rpms a 28in chain will make 1150RPMs, while a 32inch bar will make 1019RPMS.
However, on a given bar size, a 7 driver sprocket will give you more torque but a lower chain speed, and a 8 driver will give you more chain speed, but with lower torque. So if you have a 32in bar with an 8 bit vs a 7, it may CUT slower since it has less torque to pull chips, but the chain will be moving faster.
As for full comp vs full skip, I've been running both on 044s and 046s for the past two years, and the full skips always cut faster. Fewer teeth=lower fiction and faster chain speed, which=faster cutting.
What I meant with low stumps is that you dont need to cut low face cuts unless your cutting for board feet, not that you dont need to low stump after your done falling. Sorry, I was unclear and I think I misunderstood you.
Also, you should buy your chainsaw based on how long of a bar you want to run. If your using a 046 for anything under 28", your really just going to wear yourself out faster and burn more gas when you could run a smaller saw.
It's also good for cutting on steep slopes, so your not lifting your saw over your head all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
really cool thread. way out of my league though.
we run $190 18" Poulan for mountain bike trail work and so far they work great. seeing as it's trail work they're only used a day or two a week at most at we don't run 'em very hard. one has lived out on the mountain for over a year in the elements and still works awesome.
That's a pretty good book. Short, but sweet.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
Chain speed doesn't have anything to do with whether you've got an 18" bar or a 200 mile bar. Speed of the chain is not a factor of how long it takes the chain to completes a lap of the bar. Think of speed as feet per second. At the same feet per second, the chain may make a complete lap around an 18" bar in less time than it would a 28" bar, but it's not traveling any faster, it just has farther to go. The speed at which the chain is traveling is dictated only by how fast the sprocket is pulling it. A smaller (less teeth) sprocket pulls the chain less distance in an engine RPM than a sprocket with more teeth.Quote:
Originally Posted by boredboiseboy
Stihl and husky are hands down the best you can buy. Huskys are better 1 owner saws while stihls hold up better to the abuse of say (a crew) multiple people using the same saw. My personal favorite is the stihl ms361 which I use for pre-commercial thinning.
A must watch for all sawyers.
^ I'm cringing here and ROTFL.
"Thinks someone should move that car?"
"Nah..."
Thanks for that. Made my morning.
^^ That's pretty much how hurricane cleanup was after Rita in Texas
zee humbolt in interior cedar...
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_3oW42sQVrok/Sk...G10162_-11.JPG
:p
I'm envious of your red nomex.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moose Pit
Has anyone used the little cordless chainsaws at all? How much do they actually suck?
I'm looking for something lightweight and (more importantly) quiet, and the bow say is kind of a pain in the ass for anything over 4". Is it worth looking at the cordless chainsaws, or are they so bad that they're not worth bothering with?
And yes, I realize that my manhood is seriously impugned by posting this...
They are emasculating junk. You might as well get a boob job and a lop-it-off-a-me.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Go silky bigboy quiet fast and light. works as a bomber bc winter saw as well.
agree with Moosepit. A Dewalt cordless reciprocating saw with 8" wood blade might fit the bill and just may let you keep you manhood intact. Maybe.
Chainsaw cord pull repair tips?
Cord jammed the other week. Against my better judgment disassembled the thing. Inevitably the coiled steel spring escaped. Spent an hour wrestling the thing back into a manageable coil and got it hooked back into place. It'll start fine but leaves me with six inches of cord that won't fully retract. Which is both irritating and potentially unsafe?
Is there a trick how to pretension the thing? It's a Poulain... and yeah I know that's probably the problem.
Doh. Should have just put the big branch cutting blade in the cordless. Then I wouldn't have needed to start the chainsaw.Quote:
Originally Posted by khakis
pm rbtree:fm:Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWbrit