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I'm in the same boat (Pivot heel DIN matches toes, most other bindings I run the heel higher). But I'd also say that the Pivots just ski really nice because of the extra short mount point. Less dead spot underfoot. The SPX's lose that upside.Quote:
Originally Posted by FlimFlamvanHam
Same for me too. STH heels I have to run 1+ to stay in the way I expect when I run equal dins on Pivots.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Moguls. The next time you watch a mogul comp or see a team at the local hill, look at the bindings. They all run pivots. It is interesting that it's the only 18 in the catalog next year.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
I'm also in the camp that has to run heel DIN higher on other bindings. After years of only skiing pivots at 10, I bought some skis with wardens off a friend and the first day out on them I walked out twice.
I fully agree. I have had three pairs of SPXs over the years. Still have one pair. I have walked out of the SpX and never the Pivots. I think the only ski I have had that wouldn’t have been any different with Pivots were a pair of heavy two layer of metal Bonafides. Maybe I am wrong about that though.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Two main downsides of Pivots are the non sharability and needing to pay attention to the heel position (including snow on the boot sole) before clicking in, but the upsides make them my primary choice from now on.
Also, guess I should have had more coffee before I made my first post today. Again, I know why there are 75mm brakes. Yup bump comp skiers will be rocking the Harts, Pivots, Fulltilts, and the contrasting knee pants. Love watching them all in the summer on Palmer. Arguably the best skiers on the hill.
For what it's worth, I run my pivot and SPX heels at the same DIN, but I have to raise the pressure on the Attack heels.
Having said that, not sure why it is a problem once you get the setting right.
On my Attacks, I’ve had them come of somewhat frequently from quick ‘jolts’, but that same DIN setting was high enough that I tore a calf muscle in a straight ahead release.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
My time on Pivots is much more limited, so I’m not putting a high amount of weight on this, but one specific example: I clipped something under the snow which very quickly kicked my one ski backwards and spun me around. I stopped myself on only my other ski, and was ready to hike back up to get my lost ski before realizing both skis were actually still on. I’m 90% sure my attacks would have released there.
In that particular case, wouldn’t have been a big deal if the ski had come off. But my Attacks have come off just skiing through chop fast.
What I’m not sure of right now is whether my current Pivot setting is high enough to risk tearing another calf muscle, but I’m running 1/2 DIN lower than I was running Attacks - but release values haven’t been tested on either.
Without quoting anyone.
Pivots are awesome for softer skis.
Less flat spots.
They may or may not have upward toe release.
Ymmv.
They definitely pivot on the heel. Most don’t.
Ymmv.
They also suck for clipping in in deep pow.
But otherwise yes. 15 or more. Old school metal construction.
if you lower the toe din on your pivot 18, you can push the toe piece upwards like 20* with your hands and then it stops. Thats how much vertical release they have. So you'll fall backwards, toe lug will rise, and the slightest bit of twist will get the lug out. Pivot 14 on the other hand, the lugs rise upwards like 3mm and no tilt.
If we had any fucking snow this year I would be testing both pair of rockerace clamps that I bought last year, one pair of 12's and one pair of 15's. These could be the holy grail of binders if they are everything they are claimed to be. The biggest problem is that there are only 80mm and 120mm brakes available from Look. But, there is a guy over at skitalk that has a step by step for how to use the arms from SPX brakes and sub them in. Hoping to put together at leas a couple pair of 100mm brakes for next year.
^^^ In my opinion, they don't. But they will usually release just fine in a backward fall. With just a little bit of lateral or rotational force the boot will squirt out to the side just fine. Same as Salomon.
This thread got me curious. Confirmed that P18's cannot release vertically. The toe piece bottoms out on the pedestal well before the boot clears out vertically.
Here's a pic. Notice the spring is completely removed and the toe is angled up enough that the front is bottomed out. Boot isn't particularly close to being able to release straight up. As a practical matter, in this scenario I'm sure any sideways pull would get the boot out, but it's not a true vertical release.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d70482f841.jpg
And there we go, the science has spoken! Now, let's move onQuote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
That's a sick color binding, though. Isn't that enough? Why are we still talking about vertical release? [emoji23]Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
As stated before by others, I've never come out of a Pivot when I don't want to and can't say the same about any other binding I've used. Vertical, sideways, multi directional? Doesn't matter to me.
As for 12/14 vs. 15/18, yes it can be personal preference and cost based. The cost difference when buying from Corbetts keeps me in 15s with the full metal. Is plastic fine? Sure. But if you can have metal for a few bucks more? Yeah, I'll take metal every time. Only time I use a different binding is when I have hole conflicts.
Seems like you always buy skis with hole conflicts. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by phatty
I'm sorry you had to do this to put an end to this topic, but I'm pretty thankful you did.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Unfortunately it happens more than I want. Just need to buy new skis more often I guess. Or find others with 335mm BSL that also use Pivots.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandit Man
That is a sick color. When did they make that one?
Kicking into when in deep snow isn’t all that bad if one sticks the tails into the snow at an angle, kick the boot heel on the toe piece, and then step in.
Iirc, they're from 2018Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
Yeah thisQuote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
Also the p15 is ~10% heavier than the p12. Can make a noticeable difference if you sidestep a lot.
Guess I should have added a pic……. Lol
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Where the fuck is FloridaSnow?!?!
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Attachment 490532Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn
He’s probably waterproofing his jorts
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XavierD set everyone straight back in post#7….Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Totally photoshopped. You can tell by the fake vent that looks like a picture taped up next to the left of the real vent in the basement.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
im in Tahoe skiing. Don’t worry I’ll be back soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn
Yeah but nobody believed it because pics or it didn’t happen. Manufacturer’s video animations are apparently not enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by gwat
Every shop needs some tap and drill charts haphazardly taped to the walls.Quote:
Originally Posted by Conundrum
How are the blades working?Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaSnow
The correct response to his accusation was “Like many amateur photographers, I do occasionally experiment with editing.”Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I have had a few cases of ‘phantom’ releases you could call it. Nailed a rock or got my tail hung up on some vegetation going Mach shnell and got the sensation my heel released. In the split second I mentally prepared myself to absolute eat shit and blow up I was very glad to find my ski still on my foot. Still never pre-released after 5-6 years exclusively skiing them and every time I do blow it, even at 12, they pop off effortlessly.
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If you don’t use the top buckle will the pivots still release?Quote:
Originally Posted by BeHuWe
No top buckle will lower the release by one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
Huh, haven't had that issue!Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
I've got Attack 18's,16's and some 13 demos. All set to 13 front and rear w/ 0 problems(so far).
The real downfall is the Delrin heel cups prematurely failing/wearing out.Attachment 491649
blades have been slaying. A lot of work in the hot slushy conditions. Feels like you’re about to blow your legs up any second. Free the nipsQuote:
Originally Posted by gaijin
Attachment 491673Attachment 491672Attachment 491674Attachment 491675
I think the Forza 3.0 looks good on the all black Mpro 108 especially since it has some covert iridescent light reflection
Attachment 491817
Also, 115mm brakes are a perfect fit for what is really a 110mm waisted ski.
Few Pivot questions,
Poor college student, been hoarding old pivot and FKS 18’s I can find on the cheap for the past 3-4 months. Managed to pickup up 3 pairs of 18’s for $220 total so far, bringing me to 5 pairs total to work with.
Half of my sets have the grip walk AFD, other half have the old alpine AFD’s. To be cheap, instead of buying grip walk AFD’s, I just swapped the toe gripwalk sole on my boots to the Alpine sole to avoid any issues. Am I good just leaving my heel soles as gripwalk?
Other question has to do with ramp delta of the old AFD’s vs the new gripwalk one. My understanding is the toe and heel are 18 mm and 19 mm respectively for the gripwalk sets. What’s the delta on the old alpine AFD sets? Anecdotally, it feels like a bigger difference on my older sets, but I haven’t been able to find any numbers. One of my older sets came with a 3mm toe shim which I used when mounting them to my new meridians. Obviously figured it would make a flat or near flat delta, but just curious to know the numbers for the old alpine AFD’s.
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Old afds are 5mm delta. If you dont change your heel to GW you will be adding delta to your boot as they are generally thicker in my experience.
Using alpine afd’s on boots with a gw heel sole and an alpine toe sole will give you a delta of like ten mm back to front no bueno. It will make and other bindings you have also have an extra five mm delta or so most likely.
You probably should just shell out for GW afd’s.
You could do your toe sole swap, and then mount the toe pieces with five mm shims under them, and you’d replicate the normal alpine pivot delta. But that requires longer screws and shims, which finding five sets of may be difficult
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Alternatively, couldn’t I just swap my GW heel soles for the alpine ones I already have and be back to normal? Don’t do much walking in them anyways.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggydude
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