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I would prefer not to faff around with cutting screws if possible and just buy the right size. A caliper measurement of the base plate thickness would suffice too.
Blister dropped a review a few days ago:
https://blisterreview.com/at-binding...ouring-binding
I inserted mine. I don't have the skis to hand here, but when I get a chance I will measure them and update.
Got my 2.0s and settled on 14 mm countersunk screws for the inserts, they give ~ 6mm protrusion. Only had enough screws at hand for a set of baseplates, so went with the Forza 1.0 to confirm the memo from CAST I posted earlier. All good on that front.
Toured them this morning. Initial impressions are good. They make life easier. When transitioning, I went full agro on purpose - no cleaning of ice and snow whatsoever, which is problematic with the CAST 1.0. They slided in nicely. Taking the alpine toes without gloves fucked up my thumb though, be warned.
^^good stuff, apart from the thumb. Notes taken!
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Hi. Does someone tour on CAST system with Tecnica 0G boots (Tour Pro, previous iteration) ? I am encountering serious problem when trying to enter the boot. The dildo doesn't snap frankly or it stays at mid travel. With other boots and the right setting it works nicely.
It seems the boot heel design isn't compatible with the Pivot dildo, as it pushes or touches it too much. Any insight?
Common problem with Tecnica and Pivots. Arguably the heel shape is not to industry spec.Quote:
Originally Posted by lesssismore
Thanks for the statement. I was getting mad or unsure about this feature.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lesssismore
Interesting. I have skied a few laps on a cast setup with my ZGTP and did not have problems stepping in, but the pivot heels chewed up the heel ledge on the boots some, enough to make me wonder what happened. I did not eject from them, so it was just from stepping in/out. Pics for science. I'll grab a pic of my boot heel in a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by waxman
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5468f81e78.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7af2d3947e.jpg
I’m no expert on those boots/pivot combo but a sub full vertical heel usually is a result of too much forward pressure. Try backing off the forward pressure and see if you can get a firm snap on the heel without toe rattle.
The Pivot heels dig into my Scarpa 4Q’s, too. For the 4Q’s, at least, the issue happens when pushing down on the dildo to eject the boot. I think I read on another thread here a while ago that Pivots chew up grillamid heels a bit.
I wasn't going to mention Scarpa because we don't see as many of them. It seems to have something to do with either the width of the heel against the wings or the Vibram/rubber sole compressing under the dildo.Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeJosh
I’ll take a pic when I get back home tomorrow. I don’t believe the issue is related to the shape of the heel, but maybe related to the vibram tread… it’s pretty easy to see how the heel cup pushes into the top of the lug when the dildo pushes down.
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Just got around to taking the pics. A couple notes: the Pivot 2.0 seems to dig in a bit more (it has a different heel geometry from the 1.0). The heel digs into the heel lugs of my PU boots as well (ProMachines and Firebirds) but the indentations on the PU lugs pop back out after a while, while my Scarpas now have seemingly permanent marks.
Attachment 508630Attachment 508631Attachment 508632
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Looks like you have way too much forward pressure on the heel piece. Using a boot with a tech heel insert it should look like this after two seasons. Attachment 508678
Agreed. The flat surface on the underside of the dildo should be sitting flush against the heel surface, not on an angle like it is in the 1st photo.
This is where your boot should sit before engaging the binding. Second pic is the forward pressure indicator. Sometimes it lines up, sometimes it doesn't.
Attachment 508682Attachment 508683
/Users/greghalliday/Desktop/IMG_3257.MOV
Your heel should have almost no contact with the heel receiving part of the dildo especially when you push your boot down and the brake arms raise up slightly. Less is more with a Pivot heel piece. If you are running too much forward pressure you are not letting the binding do what it was designed to do which is expand and contract as you ski. By applying too much forward pressure you have removed the elasticity from the binding.
Attachment 508716
Is the first picture of the boot locked into the binding?Quote:
Originally Posted by TahoeJosh
Oh god no! Both pictures with the boot in the binding are of the dildo being levered down to eject the boot. I was showing how the upper flange of the heel piece digs into the top of the heel lug when ejecting the boot.Quote:
Originally Posted by halliday
Yep. That’s exactly how my bindings are set. The third picture (where I have the indentations on the heel lug circled) is analogous to halliday’s pic but from the top down.Quote:
Originally Posted by halliday
Here’s how the binding looks with the boot fully clicked in:
Attachment 508742
I posted the previous photos to show how the heel piece digs in to lugs when the ejecting the boot.
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My apologies for the late response. I’ve got BF inserts on my setup and the correct size screws for the toe piece are 16mm flat head screws.
Just to confirm: If I mount skis w/ pivots and decide I want to castify them at a later date, I can do that w/ the conversion kit and reuse the original pivot holes right?
yes. the old system used to finicky to remounts and not perfectly flat topsheets but 2.0 is good to goQuote:
Originally Posted by eSock
Finally, after seeing Waveshello's images and a film in which a skier uses Tecnica 0Gs on CASTs, I thought there must be a problem on my side.
I've got some very old Pivots, with stop-ski that are flimsy. In fact, on the workbench, when I engaged the binding, the back of the sole didn't touch the heel plate. There was still a gap and the dildo was unable to act normally. It's as if friction between the Vibram and the surface of the stop-ski prevented the boot from going to the bottom. I know, it sounds crazy and dumb. When I put the skis on in the snow, the binding snaps as expected. Voilà
Your problem could be at the toe? I'm using the cast 5355 AFDs for touring boots, it has a leas stack height than the Alpine AFD. I can get these boots into an alpine AFD pivot, but the extra sole height at the toe levers the binding toe piece up further than normal. I'm thinking that could be why your heels weren't fully depressing your brakes until you stood on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by lesssismore
I am seing your point. But I am using the right CAST Touring AFD with my 0G. When the boot is locked, there is a < 1mm gap between the AFD and the Vibram. My bindings need to be engaged with some weight to compress properly the stop-ski.
I don't have this issue with Cochise or Salomon Shift Pro 130 and those old Pivot.
Could you just glue a 1mm spacer on the underside of the afd?
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What's the ramp angle / delta with a CAST v2 Pivot ? Is it the same as a regular pivot or even flatter / negative ? Is the GW CAST v2 AFD the same as the normal P15 AFD ? I'm used to the STH2 WTR (6mm delta) and usually I think I don't like too flat ramps, but it's been quite some time since I tried. For touring I like the ATK R/FR (11.5 mm delta but measured differently than on alpine bindings of course). Also, is the toe higher (thicker) with the touring AFD, so you get a flatter / negative delta ?
https://alpinelogic.jp/en-en/product...2-15-pre-order - CAST 2 updated to pivot 2 + new color black metal
Nice. Hopefully these toe pieces don’t break
What's breaking on the toes? The cast pedestal?
Yeah I haven’t seen any issues with my own or online - what’s up with the toes?
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Tech toes. Broke after ~1000 meters of climbing
What part of the tech toe? Mine have been fine after ~20000m of climbing, something to watch for though.
Same here - maybe not quite as much as fullstop but I have a fair amount of use with no significant issues. The plastic toe lever seems like an obvious point of weakness, but its held up fine so far.
Did CAST warranty it?
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I've seen the metal L shaped bracket that slides onto the plastic baseplate snap once, but I think that was user error as much as a CAST Problem and one pre-production athlete version from last year sheared a pin on their tech toe. Cast took care of both problems with no questions asked.
My 2.0 toe broke at the insertion point of the pin into the arm. They were from the 1st run last year and had a only 10-12K on them. CAST sent me new “improved” toes. I would post a picture of the break, just imagine the arm sheared at 3 and 9 o’clock at the pin. Unfortunately I haven’t got out on the new toes because I’m laid up coming off of knee surgery.