JFC. Of course it was a joke. Insert obligatory ‘you new to tgr’ joke here. :fmicon:
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^^^ I do have to say they roll way better than any Maxxis I’ve been on
Nino Schurter?
He runs Maxxis - prolly pumps them up to 25psi knowing they bleed down to 16 by end of ride
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Nino riding for Giant now? That’s a huge get for them!
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I was trying out the MTX pads and HS2 rotors that were recommended in another thread. (Really digging them after I did a second higher speed bedding process). I gave my Code RSCs a fresh bleed as well, including some cleaning of the pistons with ISO and DOT fluid.
Pretty quickly my rear lever would go to the bar on first pull, then would behave normally for the rest of a section of trail. I was really thorough with my bleed, rotating the bike, turning the bars, flicking the lines, pulling vacuum at the lever way too many times, everything I could think of to get rid of air bubbles. How did I get an air bubble so quickly!!
I also noticed a grabby spot in the rotor while coasting down to my apartment. I figured I did a poor job bedding the pads and so I was going to do it more aggressively on a bigger hill. Plan was to pull the pads with the wheel in the bike, scuff them with 600 grit sandpaper and then clean the rotors with ISO.
I go to pull the pads and only one pad along with the spring will budge. I pulled the wheel, and one of the pads was stuck to a piston. In my haste, I had not let the ISO on the pistons dry after cleaning them post bleed. The red paint on the back of the pads had fused to the piston. This lead to the piston staying advanced and the lever feeling weird upon first pull. 🤦♂️
I cleaned and dried the pistons, and sanded the back of the pads a bit. Went out and did several hill descents. Two weeks later the lever feel is still normal and I am very happy with the quiet and firm braking. Turns out I don't suck at bleeding brakes as much as I thought!
That’s the price you sometimes pay for the undeniable speed of red.
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I've had this happen as well, the paint on the MTX pads comes off real easy and sticks to everything. Got a drop of DOT fluid on the back of a pad and it stripped the paint off, rinsed the pad with IPA, put it back in, and it got stuck to the piston.
Strangely enough the gold paint seems more resilient and doesn't come off. The gold pads are $$ if you need even more bite than the reds and a compound that basically doesn't wear off.
Did you also experience any lever throw inconsistencies?
I might go with the gold in the future. Reds bite hard enough so far.
I haven't had any issues with lever throw that I could relate to the pads. My issues with the Dominions were with the stock pads.
I used to run reds in the front and gold in the rear with Shimano brakes, reds felt like they gave a bit more modulation in the front while gold were perfect to lock the rear and slide it around. Now that I have brakes that aren't so on/off I'm running gold front and rear, gives me a bit more time between pad swaps. Not much difference in terms of bite, and my hands fade well before the red or gold pads heat up enough to affect braking.
For someone who has been at it since 1987, thinking about and watching skills videos makes my brain hurt. I've been in the mood to open up and think about working on skill/instructions. Feeling like an idiot, it's like watching a video on how to swallow water a newer way are you just end up dry heaving and revert back to just drinking the water. I've always said I'd never ride a chairlift with a bike. Guessing I should try it. Maybe? 4hrs on a repetitive high speed magic carpet probably be more beneficial with another human. Guess I had a coach in 1990/91 but his background was local track racing and fist fights. Mostly just riding single track and aggressively trying to knock team members off bike to crash if push came to shove on DH mass start xc races. It was more like hockey.
I'm going to count this as being an idiot. Serviced my freehub before the big local gravel race yesterday.
Maybe I overdid it a bit because I made that thing dead silent...
In an event like that, I really prefer to have some hub noise so people know I'm behind them, especially on the fast descents. I even chose a relatively noisy (but not Hydra-loud) hub when I had the wheelset built because at that time I did a lot of riding on a busy shared-use path and it was nice to have some built-in audio feedback instead of having to ring a bell or call out to people (which half the time causes them to get startled and move the wrong direction).
I was rebuilding one of my Hayes calipers last night (due to a separate idiot move on my part). The instructions have you remove the caliper and separate the halves, then use compressed air to blow the pistons out. After the 3rd time I shot a piston across the garage, I realized maybe I should turn the pressure on my air compressor down from 150 psi. :rolleyes2
Went and did White Rim with 6 people, and me as the only real wrench. I was smart. I bought both an extra chain and a master link, just in case.
Sure enough, it happened, and then after I sat in the dirt for 15 minutes fixing someone's busted chain I realized that the chain and the master link were two different widths. Cause I'm an idiot.
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I wish I could blame this on the LBS. I also wish I could say I caught it before doing several rides.
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Way back in the day, my buddy and I were drinking a lot of beers and rebuilding his Manitou somethingorother fork in the living room of one of our gf's. We managed to get it all back together without spilling any fork oil on the carpet, except that our drunk asses put the lowers on with the arch in front. Like a normal fork would go together not a backwards-ass manipoo.
On the do-over to put the lowers back on the correct way, we dumped fork oil all over the carpet obviously. It was not well-received.
It's turning into the end of the season and my rear tire stopped holding air. Since today may have been my last ride before hunting season is in full swing rather than adding a bit of sealant I decided to pop the bead off the tire to take a peak and look if I really needed to add some sealant. I managed to knock the tape out of place bad enough that I had to retape the tire. Then my lazyness kicked in and I threw a tube in as a problem for future me to deal with.
All to save 4 bucks of sealant.
I don't know if I'm the idiot here, but
I bought a used XC FS bike a month ago. It was cheap, but needed some maintenance done to it. Bought it off a high school racer that outgrew it and needed money for a new bike.
Norco Revolver with Fox factory on it. The rear float shock was kind of stiff, I figured it needed a service. Got to looking at it Monday and realized it had a 3 position lockout on it, and no one had ever hooked a cable up to it/no lockout lever on the bike. The kid had been riding the bike with the rear shock in the locked position the whole time he had it.
I'm baffled.
I relates to this
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I resemble that story.
I went OTB pretty hard on my last ride last season. I haven't even gotten the bike out of the corner of the garage to see what the damage was... Just know I remember the bike (and my leg/knee) taking the bashing.
Future me called past me a lazy asshole.
That judgmental prick. He probably doesn’t even know the context!
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I bled my brakes over the winter. First time doing it. At the time they felt great afterwards.
Took this bike out today for my first ride since and the front has almost no stopping power. Pumped the lever for awhile which helped slightly but it's still really under powered.
Can I simply top up the reservoir or should I rebleed it?
Shimano? If so, thread the bleed cup on with some fluid and just pump a few times. See if any air bubbles come to the surface. It's quick and easy and may be the only issue.
Yes Shimano BR-MT520. Great - thank you, will give that a go, hopefully that's that.
Destroyed a hub on a $2400 wheel set.
I was pressing out some bearings because I feel it's "safer" than DT's suggested process of hammering the axle to remove the bearings.
One of my drifts slightly moved and while pressing from the other side it folded over the lip of the center lock threads, completely destroyed the hub.
It's a DT system wheel, so a commercially available 240 straight pull hub has different dimensions so the spoke calculations would be different, the nipples are a specific inverted internal style, and the spokes are not common.
So I sent it to DT to have them rebuild it, and eat the cost of a new hub, spokes, nipples, labor and shipping. Luckily it was the cheaper front wheel, but it still hurts.
Some days you're the dog, and some days you're the fire hydrant......
User name checks out!
(Seriously though, that blows. Sorry to hear)
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Decided to take to a 3-4hr ride in the coast range this weekend, knew rain was likely so I packed an extra wool layer and gloves. The rain never let up and temps were in the low 40s. I ended up 20miles from home and shivering in a trailhead portapotty. Heard someone leaving the trailhead which ended up being an open bed truck so I flagged him down and got a 5mile shuttle out of the hills and down to warmer temps.
I was smart enough to pack an extra layer but should’ve turned around much earlier. I’m fairly new to road/gravel and the descents really take the heat away
Always have a wind vest or shell for temps under 60f.
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I'd likely have worn a quality rain jacket from the get-go in those conditions. At least packed one.
I am sorry but the right people don't use packs on a mtn bike
instead they pay a lot of money to stash their shit on the bike