Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
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Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
Has anyone mounted pivots with this yet? Wondering if the template is set up to be right in the middle of the adjustment range or if you have to do that weird "shrink the bsl by 0.5 cm" before drilling heels like on the real jig.
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I just received my MottJig and will be doing a Pivot test mount shortly.Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
My Pivot template is based on dimensions from Knut's paper template.Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
I just did some measuring and the BF template in the paper template thread puts the holes ~5mm closer the heel line, so maybe that one matches the official jig with the 5mm bs...? I've seen people saying that both were correct in different threads at different times, so I thought both had already taken that into account and were the same until just now.
I think KillerMonkey and PinyonJuniper in this thread show pictures using the Pivot templates too. I haven't mounted with it so I can't say for sure its correct.
If my dimensions are off for getting the forward pressure right, let me know and I will fix.
Yes, have mounted pivots with this jig. Was not aware of the 0.5cm thing so did not make any adjustments. After mounting I adjusted the screw until the forward pressure indicator was in the right position.
No problems since.
So i guess the question is how much out of the middle of the adjustment range did that put you? Are you near the limit to where if you switched to a boot with slightly shorter BSL it would be a problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerMonkey
Thanks guys.
If it's based on Knut's paper templates then yes there's no adjustment needed to be in the middle of the binding adjustment range.
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I believe that was only a thing with older Pivot/FKS jigs.Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
I mount with my pivot jig without making any adjustments and don’t think it’s mounting wrong. Seems perfect to me
With the mott jig? Or an oem jig?Quote:
Originally Posted by Climber Joe
I have never actually used an official pivot jig so I'm not sure when this does and doesn't apply, I just remember getting worried about it when I did a paper mount a couple of years ago. It seemed like a very strange procedure so I hope they did fix it.Quote:
Originally Posted by One (+) Sentence
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Damn, just took delivery. This is a really nicely thought out and made piece of kit. Really stoked to drill some skis with it.
Thanks MottN!
Attachment 479492
I just sent you a PM if you're still printing...Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
Attachment 479805
Finally got this thing printed up and put together. This looks like it will make mounting much quicker and easier, thanks for make the files available. I couldn’t get the friction clamp to work but I think I can get by without them.
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I normally use some d clamps in addition to the friction clamp, but it's still much faster and easier than the paper template.Quote:
Originally Posted by troth
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I assume you mean that the black knobs lock the green knobs from turning?Quote:
Originally Posted by troth
This design has always been pretty sensitive to size of the green knob's shaft, which is certainly a little bit of an issue. I updated the files a couple months ago to increase the size of that shaft to make the fit consistently tighter, and it helps for the parts I print but probably not a universal fix. I'm sure there is a somewhat easy way to fix this issue and I'll put some thought into it at some point.
You can always scale that part up a bit in x and y and the mating gear similarly. There should be a little clearance in the gear racks so that it won't hurt the function.
Someone commented on the printables files that they put some fibergrip in that interface and it supposedly worked well to increase friction, so that might be the easiest fix.
If you have some grippy rubber on the clamp jaws you don't need much locking force to keep the jig from moving around, then as fleaches said, clamps for peace of mind.
Thanks for the suggestions. I will probably just use a few clamps for now, if that becomes to fiddly I will look at making those updates. I put some mastic tape on the clamp which seems to work but Im going to try the grippers printed in TPU since I don't have much experience with this material and it sounds like a good excuse to play with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
Yeah the TPU is better than nothing, I use rubber tubing when I make them which i feel is quite a bit grippier.
These days I am using this tube (12mm x 16mm), and an side gripper jaw that is sized a little differently to fit it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TD53QB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I should update the printables page to include that information too.
I picked up MottN's jig and used it for an ATK mount, and Tyr mount. Man, super money! So much easier and less stressful
My jig arrived yesterday and will hopefully get used to drill 3 pairs of skis before the end of the weekend. It all seems intuitive and is a nice addition to the tool kit.
Thanks MottN.
Made mounting tech binders while wearing a baby a breeze.
Attachment 481431
Apparently me buying this was like...the 5th 3D printed thing I bought this year. My wife took that to mean I should own a 3D printer so ended up getting one as my xmas gift. Happy to print others around the Front Range templates as needed.
Hijacking this to see if y’all have a recommendation for a 3D printer. I want one that’s easy to setup and use, and a good combo of capability and affordability.
Brand new to the 3D print game -- got one surprise for Xmas. Wife got me the Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro ($280 with 1KG of filament). It was easy to setup, and it's really fucking fast. Self-leveling bed and PEI spring steel sheet made it easy to configure and pull parts off of. The biggest issue i have is running it at full speed the acceleration is super fast which causes vibrations--need to figure out some dampening options (currently on a cabinet countertop). For now I've just dialed back accell to ~10k rather than some of the 20k presets.Quote:
Originally Posted by Climber Joe
Seems like the Ender series is super popular especially if you're interested in extending it/having something you can hack on (custom firmware, updated parts, etc).
May help to select printer if you know what sorts of things you want to mostly print. Functional parts? Decorative pieces? What type of material (PLA, PETG, ABS/ABA, TPU, etc)? Whats the max size you expect to need? If you expect to print things in multiple colors, you're looking at pricier printers or manually swapping mid prints.
Curious as to what MottN prints on. Stuff he sent is really nice. Maybe Bambu?
Yeah, I have a Bambu X1c and I just got a Bambu A1 to replace an old ender that I occasionally still used. I really like the filament changers for general quality of life- it makes a big difference being able to have 4 rolls loaded and not having to do manual changes between prints. And I don't do much multicolor printing other than change at layer type stuff for the labeling on these. FWIW I mainly print petg for these jigs, PLA for random other stuff, and occasionally nylon or ASA when needed.
Prusas are good, but they were never value printers and I was pretty soured by the prusa mini we had to play around with for protypes at my work. I have/had a MK3 also and don't really have bad things to say about it, but there are much better printers for the price than the MK3/4.
I think at this point the enders are pretty outdated and slow, and mostly are there for people who like printing parts for their 3d printers because they can't think of anything else to do with them.
I like my A1 a lot for filling the niche you are describing, but there are also lots of other good printers out there. I have hear good things about the Kobra 2's also.
A couple of weeks in and I can certainly see why people buy the X1C -- bit of spend once cry once thing. Multicolor, quality leveling, fast and enclosed. More of an apple-type product where everything just works. Prusas seem more like a nice Linux rig.
Not to cunt up MottNs thread...but if folks have recommended resources on entry level cad program they recommend learning I'm all ears. I've used SketchUp a bit for designing stuff in my van...but tthat's just sketching for fit/manipulation not actual manufacturing. Fusion360? OnShape? Other? Nothing complex just small functional things I can't find.
On shape for non-engineering folks, not feature based so the learning curve is faster.Quote:
Originally Posted by doebedoe
Mounted my Praxis Skinny Quixotes today using the jig. Dead on!
Cheers MottN!!
Attachment 481857Attachment 481858Attachment 481859
labeled it L and R cause it's asymmetric. Graphic is an obvious giveaway but I figured I'd like to see it when stepping into the binding even if the ski is iced up or covered in snow.
What is the optimal length for the 2020 T Slot?
650mm is a good universal length. You won't max that out unless you have really huge feet (like 400mm bsl) and are mounting Attacks or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by spudbumkin
You can get by with shorter in some cases - if you are only mounting pivots for example, you could probably with get buy with BSL + 200mm.
Thanks. I bought a 4 pack of 800mm. Depending on how cumbersome this length is, I may cut it down to 650mm.
If you don't cut, I would just let the ends stick out past the centering clamps rather than have the full length between them. That will help keep the lateral stiffness higher. The 2020 is pretty stiff, but as it gets long, if you push sideways its fairly easy to deflect enough to affect a mount.Quote:
Originally Posted by spudbumkin
For metal skis that take a bit longer to get through than wood it will help prevent drill wander a bit if you don't clamp the templates to the ski.
Dood where did you get such perfect c clamps? Hard to find em that big with feet.Quote:
Originally Posted by macon
I've been on the lookout for them everywhere! Looking around anytime I was at the hardware store. Found them at Lowes, made by Irwin. The little rubber feet are included and removeable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Westcoaster
Irwin Vise Grip Wide-Opening Jaws 2 pack - Item #267048 Model #45619
https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Origi...Set/1003142304
Two big thumbs up for MOTT.
He printed the jig and sent me the kit in the fall....mounted the skinny and fatter skis for the boy (Marker 7.0) and no problems.
I’m interested in your jig and 2/3 templates over here in SLC. Looks like I can’t message. Could I shoot you an email?Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
Yeah you can email me at Nat.mottaz@gmail.comQuote:
Originally Posted by Landob
What is the required print area for this?
The largest jig pieces are ~200mm x ~50mm iirc, and templates vary but tend to be around 150mm x 120mm for most of larger ones
Dope, I think the printer I just ordered prints to 220
MottN for president; I absolutely love mine, thank you!!!