Reed the Fishmonger has spent more time sharpening knifes than all of us combined.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6Qxi98cJLM&t=62s
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Reed the Fishmonger has spent more time sharpening knifes than all of us combined.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6Qxi98cJLM&t=62s
Notice that the blade is not flat on the stone. This creates a microbevel on the edge of the blade, where the sharpening angle is higher than the overall angle of the blade. The idea is to hve to remove only a tiny amount of steel to resharpen. The width of the microbevel is a fraction of a millimeter, you would have to look hard to see it. I'm using a 1200 grit oilstone in Truckee and up to 8000 waterstone in my shop in Sacramento. (Waterstones can freeze in my garage in Truckee.) I don't notice a difference. The key to really sharp is honing using honing compound on a buffing wheel or strop. And regular honing on a steel in the kitchen. Honing removes the microscopic burr that sharpening the knife and using the knife creates.
I don't think the sharpening angle--15 vs 20 degrees makes much difference, except that if you try to sharpen a 20 deg edge at 15 you won't actually be sharpening the actual edge unless you remove a lot of steel. What matters more in how a knife cuts is the overall angle and thickness of the blade--a blade should be as thin as possible without being too fragile--so skinny blades for slicing vegetables, fat blades for taking apart a chicken or chopping of the stem of an ear of corn.
I've given up. Bought a two sided stone. Watched videos. Spent 30 minutes trying and trying. Just can't get it to sharpen. I take mine to the knife shop. $6 and it's sharp a good year with just maintaining with a rod.
And a knife NEVER goes in the dishwasher. Hand wash towel dry every time.
Interesting. Something seems odd or off.Quote:
Originally Posted by GiBo
I don't find it too difficult. Maybe the key is consistent angle and pressure...idk. I did sharpen skis as a job for a few years so maybe that helped somehow even though it's completely different.
On all of my knives besides the Santoku I set sharpening angle on a bench grinder. Cool wheel, going very slow, and I have a lot of experience sharpening tools on a grinder. That makes subsequent sharpening on a stone much easier. I would not recommend to anyone else.
There's a reason we use disposable scalpels and hypodermic needles.
I'll help anyone around Truckee with sharpening. Might have to wait for the hair on my left forearm grows back though, so I can test sharpness. I just got done sharpening all my knives and shaved most of the hair off.
I bought the Ken Onion Worksharp. Adjustable to all angles, dead easy to use. I break it out about 4 times a year and do most of my knives all at once.
My 15deg knives feel sharper than my 20deg but don’t hold an edge as long.Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
But that could be a material thing - all my 15s are CS and all my 20s are SS….
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What grit?Quote:
Originally Posted by GiBo
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More than likely me that's off. :) Patience isn't my strong point.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
1000/6000. An Amazon cheapy like the fishmonger uses.Quote:
Originally Posted by irul&ublo
I'll give it another go.
This is the answer. You can get any knife scary sharp with minimal skill.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
4 pages in and no mention of the plate/saucer ? PFFFTTTTTTT !!
Doesn't anyone just use the back of a saucer anymore ?
FFS !! My grandma cut all kinds of shit and its the only thing she ever used.
Thanksgivng turkey?......Back of a tea cup. Salami ?........Back of a saucer.....Christmas roast ?......back of a dinner plate. Assortment of garlic and pickles? ......Back of a coffee cup. Fresh tomatoes from the garden ?....... Back of a saucer. Canning dill pickles?....Back of a saucer.
You guys sound like a bunch of pussies whining about your knifes. lol.
Every time I cut something in the kitchen, I give it a couple swipes with the old saucer. Good enough for me at least.
Carry on !
And for reference
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tB8O7w1qPEI
Still rocking my chef's choice 130. I don't use it very often since I only cut on wood and poly boards and steel regularly between uses. But that sucker turns out nice sharp knives with minimal effort once the angles on all the knives have been set. Takes as long to get the sharpener out and put it away as it does to touch up a few knives with it.
I think unglazed porcelain is about a 3000. Depending on imperfectionsQuote:
Originally Posted by bad dancer
Last time I was at an AirBnB I went to town on one of their knives with a series of rocks from the yard. It went from unusable to tolerable. Necessity is the mother and all.
I think I'm going to start taking this with me on holidays.Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
https://www.agrisupply.com/images/xxl/81636.webp?v=1
Try a 400 or 600 to start out with, then move up. A 1000 is on the cusp of fine, and if your knives are really dull, you might need to be more aggressive.Quote:
Originally Posted by GiBo
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yeah, carbon gets sharper and dulls faster.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
If you want to buy an expensive shortcut to absolutely razor sharp blades, buy yourself one of these:
https://www.worksharptools.com/produ...nife-sharpener
It brings me great joy.
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still waiting for DD to chime in and drop some knowledge on us
I knew I liked you for a reason. The Worksharp is stupid easy to use and gets your knives stupid sharp. Well, easily sharper than you need for functional kitchen knives anyway. I absolutely love mine and have used it for years.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Worked for 4 years in a book conservation lab, and as part of that work, I sharpened leather paring knives every day - sharp enough to be able to consistently split veg tanned leather with absolutely no pressure on the knife at all, just guiding it along. Used Japanese water stones to get edges that sharp - and all I can say is, unless you're maintaining your edges every day (lord knows I'm not), there's no real reason to go beyond 3000 grit.
The Worksharp is 85-90% as good as a full Japanese stone system and 6000 times as convenient.
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I’m also in the market for a stone and other searches led me to a sharpton pro. My knives stay mostly sharp but I want a 2-4x year touchup. 1000,1500, or 2000 grit?
I bought a Japanese sharpener, non electric, expensive at 140, but it does a great job.
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Depends how sharp the knives are to begin with. If they are very sharp and you touch up before they get dull--2000. You don't want a stone duller than the knives or much finer.Quote:
Originally Posted by carlh