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This is the answer to every "it doesn't happen to me, so it must not happen to others". Speed, terrain, skill, riding style, bike, rims, etc, etc. Too many variables to assume that everybody but "you" is full of shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by joetron
Yup - I run "higher" pressure (though I refuse to run over 30psi) and choose beefier sidewall'd tires. Had pretty good luck for awhile now... 190lbs geared up, give or take, depending on bacon-ingestion levels.Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Sounds just like mounting your own skis. Go slow, measure twice, hydrate along the way. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by beece
You tried Cush Core yet? Sounds like you should.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
Random ass knob angles and on every single one of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
Naw - I'd probably just go DH casing if I ever find that Michy's Adv Reinforced casing is insufficient. Actually - I'd probably go with an insert in the Rock'R2, because fuck all those other tires. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Cush Core works really, really well for helping no talent hacks avoid pinch flats. Needless to say, I love Cush Core.
It sounds like something that would be right up my alley as well...Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
That Michy is really damn good in dry conditions. I'm less stoked on it around here, but we ride on WAY different dirt.Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
But for real, I think you'd like Cush Core a lot.
Yeah - I warn people that are likely to ride *any* mud that they should simply ignore my tire blathering...Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
I'll probably try it after I flat my next rear tire. 'Cause I'm dumb like that.Quote:
But for real, I think you'd like Cush Core a lot.
So do DH casings. With the added benefit of better sidewall protection.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
60 TPI for DH vs 120 TPI for DDQuote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Double down is more supple. My toilet paper needs to be supple!
For what it's worth, I kinda feel like if you are very good at picking and hitting lines, or you are very good at pointing the bike straight and deweighting and just floating through things, you have fewer sidewall/sideknob issues. It's when you are in the middle of those two styles (anywhere in the middle spectrum) that you see the most problems.
Or at least that's what I see. Of course influenced by weight and terrain as well.
For sure, but CC + Exo is a bit lighter if you can get away with that, and I think does a better job with pinch flats (at the expense of sidewall protection, for sure). They've both got their place.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
True, both as to the weight, and the pinch flats. But I can run substantially lower pressures with a DH casing. Exo + CC means I still need 27-28 psi in the rear, otherwise the tire rolls in hard corners. DH casing I can run 24 psi without tire roll or pinch flat problems, and it's not much heavier.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
And really, unless it's super rocky, I'm fine with a DD in the rear at 25-26 psi. Still lower pressure than Exo + CC, it weighs about the same, and it has better sidewall protection.
Different people see different things in Simple’s photos.
Some say - unridable! Side nobs are ripped off and disintegrating.
Some say - ahh I could get another 500 miles out of that.
People have different bike feel, ride differently, ride different locations. Some are more perfectionists, some are more frugal... Truely YMMV
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Yeah, I pretty much agree with all of that.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Though that Michy tire that skaredshtles likes so much only comes in one casing (which I'd compare to Exo+) so in that particular case, it's pretty much insert or bust if you want to beef things up.
Yeah. And don't get me started on that.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
Fucking Michelin. :nonono2:
Wife just asked for Minion 2.6s with EXO+ on 32mm Stans rims with CC for her DH build. Will be curious to see how it all holds up.
27.5. I didn't expect great things from the Tomahawk, but I also didn't choose it. It came with a bike. So I'll use it until it's done, then I have a Minion SS that I want to try out.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
what pressure of the air do you place those at?Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
I'm definitely one of the OMG can't keep tires on types but with some of the burlier casings with real tire pressure I haven't really had a flat in a few years now. Thinking 900-1000g range tires, not dh casing because pedaling on those things sucks.
I run my rear tires at 30psi minimum for a 2.3-2.5 sized tire fwiw. I hope you're not one of the folks that thinks tubeless has a certain pressure that simply MUST be used and still can't figure out why they're tearing tires.
I would usually run a Rock'R2 on the rear at around 28psi. The HR2 EXO I have on now I try to keep at 30psi, and I still get some rim-strikes on a few of the extra-pointy-rock trails around here. Front Rock'R2 I usually run 22-25psi.Quote:
Originally Posted by kidwoo
I'd say just put more air in your tires. How much you weigh?
Those michelins are still pretty damp at higher pressures. 22psi front is just asking for trouble IMO.
Around 190# geared up. The HR is just about done... so I shall take your recommendation under advisement. And you're probably right about the front tire - esp on the rocky shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by kidwoo
You got like 25lbs on me. You're destroying tires because you have no air in them. If you really get all smashy smash, 35psi in the rear will still deform enough to grip for you. Yeah man, you weigh more than me and run lower pressures. it's gonna be a bad time
I suspect I don't ride nearly as hard as yourself. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by kidwoo
That said - I shall consider bumping up rear pressure when riding those prickly trails...
I probably also need to come to terms with the fact that I'll probably never be 180lbs geared up again, and act appropriately. :D
Well you definitely get more flats that I do :fmicon:Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
I know I'm going to curse myself, but I've only had one flat since I switched to the Rock'R2s (summer 2016) - and that was definitely due to low tire pressure (I forgot to check prior to a rocky ride).Quote:
Originally Posted by kidwoo
Dammit. I'm surely going to get a flat on my next ride now. :mad:
You are a total idiot. No offense. Why the hell would you post this?Quote:
Originally Posted by skaredshtles
There’s a reason I have stayed out of this discussion.
Have fun fixing tires.
Brakeside crank somehow came loose and fell off while riding home from work today. How the hell does that even happen? The crank socket (or whatever the correct term is) deformed a bit in the process, can I safely reinstall it and keep using it?
Attachment 302112Attachment 302113
You'd be amazed at how often I've seen that. Crankbolt gets lose from vibration, then slowly starts to back out from crank pressure (on square taper the taper itself tends to push the crank outward over time when the bolt isn't tight.) Eventually it gets so far out it wobbles, which bends the metal on the inside edge of the crank. Bad on a ride. REALLY hilarious when it's your brother and it comes off when he's in the middle of a sprint finish in a race. Good times. ... Was that outloud? Anyway...Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Sometimes you can put it back on, tighten it up, and it'll work. Depends on how much positive contact area you have left on the crank to interface with the taper. If you put it on and it's at all wobbly, it's done unless you try to ghetto fix it (more on that in a sec.) One issue with trying to tighten it up to take out wobble is that if you tighten it up too much you can split the crank. Which is bad.
Anyway, if it doesn't work and you want to try the ghetto fix, you use strips of aluminum foil to shim the areas where the crankarm bent. It's not easy, or in any way recommended, but I know of bikes fixed that way that are still being happily ridden 10 years later.
But it's your crank. You have to gauge for yourself how much you are willing to risk with any of this stuff, and how bomber it feels when you are done reassembling.
Because my brother who lost it field sprinting? Heavy damage man. To more than just him and his bike. Was spectacular.
Kinda weird for a commuter maybe, but not unheard of. Had it happen a few times on a mountain bike.
Put it back on and crank it good and tight. If there's no play, ride it. If there is play, ride it carefully.:D
If it keeps loosening, you could try some blue thread lock on the crank bolts, but if it's too fudged, you'll need to replace the crank.
The good news is that replacement square taper crank arms can be found for around $10 used, or $20 new.
Put it back on and it seems solid enough to ride tomorrow. Just to be safe I'll see if I can get a replacement cheap somewhere. I replaced the cranks on this bike in February and I was lucky to get the bolt out of the old cranks, hence my surprise. My only other experience with square taper is on kids bikes.
What length is it?
I might have a line on one.
If it loosens again, or just doesn't tighten enough, try greasing the tapered spindle and tighten the crank bolt A LOT.
This will probably split the crank arm.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Beece is on point. Additionally, some green loctite in there with the aluminium foil might help - but I'd recommend replacement - you ride the shit out of your commuter.
You've got it reinstalled. It'll feel good, but you won't really know until you put a few miles on it. Usually when they get deformed like that they're done.
I'd be sure to bring an 8mm with you tomorrow on your commute. Check tightness when you get to work. If it loosened up again you'll have to replace it. NDS square taper crank arms are cheeeap.
^^^ Splitting would put an end to it... I figured it'd just distort the area around the square hole in the crank enough to tighten it up a bunch.
FWIW, it is not recommended to grease the taper on a square taper BB because of likely overtightening.
170, Shimano AceraQuote:
Originally Posted by rideit
10-4Quote:
Originally Posted by joetron
we had set of raceface turbo cranks on juniors Holeshot hard tail which used to creak a lot, so on advice of a train locomotive mechanic we got a Loctite product for retaining sleeves and bearings, cleaned the spindle & crank, apply product let it cure the creak went away, it was like gluing the crank on with epoxy
except then he snapped the square taper spindle so we didnt have to worry about creaking, then he broke a couple more square tapers, at that point he was good enough to pretty much break them on command
so we got him a full suspension with octalink crank & spindle so he didnt break anymore spindles,
Instead he broke the frame in half...
BB spindle looks fine?
NDS square taper arms are super cheap:
Sunlite Allow Low Profile Left Crank Arm w/Square Taper, 170mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO5J20..._W-3YDb6XF05KK
I’ve never had to use Loctite on any of my square taper crank bolts ... have always used grease (on the bolts, never the spindle) and torqued to spec. But then again this was old Ultegra stuff before the Octalink self extracting stuff came out.