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For his generosity, call him and buy the 2 bits you need (3.5mm / 4.1mm) to drill everything but junior skis. It'll be ~$40 and you'll have good karma.Quote:
Originally Posted by jvskinn
Or if you end up with a pivot plate, come over to mine in Denver and you can borrow the bits.
Put a little grease inside the bushings to prevent wear. The bushings are aluminum (replaceable) so they can wear from the drill bit spinning.Quote:
Originally Posted by jvskinn
Do the Radical 2 plates include the heel pattern for the demo/rental version?
(On the Vertical/Radical1 the demo/rental heel pattern is long -- I'm pretty sure that's the case with the demo/rental version, although I haven't checked them side-by-side.)
As a check, I drew the Dynafit Radical 2.0 binding template from measuring the Jigarex Radical 2.0 plates we have in stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan S.
So unlike the demo/rental version for the Vertical & Radical "1" ... the Radical 2 rental/demo heel pattern is identical the standard Radical 2 ST/FT?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Not sure. Davieboot could possibly answer that. I assumed you had the bindings in hand and wanted to see how the plates would work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan S.
Unfortunately I neglected to measure the bindings when I had them here (other than noting they didn't match up with anything in my pre-Radical 2 jig) ... was a very busy evening:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
https://www.facebook.com/NERandoRace...type=3&theater
Yes. Demo is the same hole pattern.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan S.
A buddy just got one, and I have used it twice.
Had a hard time keeping it from moving fore and aft- 1st time I jut left a bit in the bushing and into the one of the holes. Last night I clamped it onto the ski.
!-st mount Marker Tours- perfect.
Last night did Radicals. Not perfect. Heels did not line up, and couldn't really tweak it into place. It's like all 4 toe holes were perfect in relation to each other, but not the heel.
I have done 6-8 Dynafit mounts- templates and an old shop jig- and this was the the only one I couldn't get straight.
Any thoughts?
Proper bits are by far the best way. Plus thye are designed to be centered in the jig holes. Use one of thse, http://svst.com/Shop/Drill-Bits-Acce...ter-Punch.html and either one of these http://svst.com/Shop/Drill-Bits-Acce...r-W-Drill.html or http://svst.com/Shop/Drill-Bits-Acce...l-4-1X9-5.html FYI I use 4.1 and a tap for skis with metal or 3.6 for all non metal skis.Quote:
Originally Posted by doebedoe
It's also smart to use one of these http://svst.com/Shop/Drill-Bits-Acce...untersink.html afterwards to prevent the top sheet frompulling up.
The best ghetto option is to get drill bit shaft collars at the hardware store. http://www.zoro.com/dayton-stop-coll...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds
They are cheap and a million times better then eyeballing with tape.
I asked in the MYOFS thread about drilling straight, having done about a half dozen Dynafit mounts with an official Dynafit jig and Jigarex. I haven't had any that were unusable, but I definitely had to get creative with tightening the screws on a few. TLDR answer: get an SVST punch, run that through the jig, then use a small bit to make a pilot hole on the divot, then use your stepped bit through a drill guide.Quote:
Originally Posted by hhtele
That is exactly what I do -- the SVST punch rocks for having a perfectly centered hole. The only difference is that I just remove the jig after I make the center hole punches -- drilling straight for 3.5mm with a stepped bit isn't challenging, even for someone as uncoordinated as I am.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
The other possibility is to check to make sure that the centering mechanism on both ends of the jig is correctly aligned. Someone once removed the cranks on my jig and when he put them back, it was off center, which you can easily tell by looking at the teeth on each side clamps to make sure the same number are showing as the clamps move back and forth.
Yeah, I forgot to mention the remove jig part out, but I was under the impression from the suggestions people gave me to remove jig after punching, and that it's pretty hard not to drill straight with the drill guide plus setting your stepped bit / small bit on the divot made by the punch.Quote:
Originally Posted by dschane
I think it's fine to leave the jig on too for the built in guide on the jig -- to each his own.
Leaving it on is by far the most accurate. When doing inserts, I do everything directly threw the jig so everything lines up 100% If you remove the jig you will certainly have some minor alignment issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by dschane
I don't know, if you start with a solid punch, go with a small bit to make it bigger, it's pretty hard to fuck it up by hand, and then you can quickly verify it's going well by overlaying the binding. Done a lot of inserts now and am yet to fuck one up this way. I've fucked up a few inserts in my time pre-jig days with paper templates and Fritschi/Silvretta bindings. But it's a matter of preference -- you can't really fuck it up either way if you're careful.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
It doesn't seem as though a punch would help. All 4 holes lined up nicely with the toe- the toe didn't line up with the heel. I snugged them 1 at a time independently after marking the ski with a pencil- none of the screws pulled the binding. So, no real way to use the standard screw tightening tricks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
The weird think is that one heel was off to the left, one off to the right. this makes me think the crux of the problem is me.
By no means an expert, but in addition to a handful of Dynafit mounts, I have done Fritchis, Naxos alpine and tele with templates, jigs, and just using the biding and a properly sized punch. Can't figure where this one went wrong.
The set up is usable but annoying. The friend I did if for isn't bothered, but I am. I did not drill out the heel tabs this time. Maybe if I knock those out, I can get a bit of wiggle out of the heel.
Anyone have a large Salomon guardian plate I could borrow in the Boulder area?
Punch lightly and then check the (lateral) spacing with a pair of digital calipers? If you're off, recenter the jig and try again. If you're on, re-punch and use Andeh's method. After having a Jigarex mount be slightly off center, that's my new plan.Quote:
Originally Posted by hhtele
I've got Salomon STH2 plates up in Summit, I think the toe is different unfortunately.Quote:
Originally Posted by rudy
One more attempt at this...Quote:
Originally Posted by rudy
Looking to buy a kingpin plate. Any ideas when those will be available?
Bumping this, anyone know? Looking to get one ASAP.Quote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
Bought one from binding freedom
Yeah, I looked on their website and Tognar and both were out. Wondering if anyone knew any others.Quote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
I would call them, maybe they can make one up for you
Anyone know who owns/makes the Jigarex these days??
Did plinyequipment sell to binding freedom?? Old website forwards there.
SVST for both Jigarex and Binding Freedom.
Also Tognar.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
More clearly in response to the previous question, SVST owns/ fabricates Binding Freedom and Jigarex. SlideWright.com supplies BF inserts, screws and mounting tools and supplies.
Any idea when they/you will get more Kingpin plates..?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Have a Jigarex and Warden plates in Boston area on weekdays and Catskill region on weekends. If anyone is interested in using it or testing it out before their own purchase send me a PM. We can work something out
I thought I'd post this idea (and risk ridicule) in case someone else wants to do something similar: I took an old Geze jig out of the trash - if you live in a ski town these things are relatively easy to come by - and modified it to accept the width of modern skis. Since I'm a die-hard Solly guy, I don't mind making this a dedicated Solly jig. The Jigarex templates were $35. This was easy to do I just used some bolts with nuts as spacers and made some new metal "claws" to grip the skis. I fortunately had some scrap aluminum with a rubber strip glued to it which worked out beautifully to grip the skis. I had to modify the jigarex templates a bit, cutting them shorter on my bandsaw. I ground off the original bushings on the Geze jig and carefully centered the templates on the jig. I held the templates onto the jig with clamps and then drilled some holes through both the jig and templates. I put roll-pins (tension pins) in the holes. It's totally bomber. I've mounted only 2 pairs of skis so far but they are both centered on the skis within a .010" tolerance.
Still none.....Quote:
Originally Posted by nyskirat
I managed to pick some up in Jan. when they had them in stock. Shoot them an email/phone call, they may be able to tell you when they'll get them in stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBrit
If you were near MA I'd let you snag mine but you seem to be across the country.
Yep Idaho.Quote:
Originally Posted by nyskirat
Might hit you up for borrow if I can't find one as I have 2 pairs kingpins to mount.
Will do. Just let me know. I've got mine just sitting at home in a box.Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliBrit
Any one around Mammoth or L.A has the Rad 2.0 plate?
Jigarex is awesome. Anyone who has been fucking around with paper templates needs one. Bite the bullet. You can see where the dollars went.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...52969f6c91.jpg
I have a jigarex but I am mounting my latest rig with paper templates (Atomic Backland)...total bummer..unfortunately, Jigarex cant keep up with how fast the industry is changing binding hole patterns or supply enough existing plates. Thinking about becoming proficient at making my own plates....