Yeah. That ski is trashed. Or a ski for the great divide.
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Yeah. That ski is trashed. Or a ski for the great divide.
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Dude tell us how it happened
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
These two things.Quote:
Originally Posted by thefortrees
Fix that shit for the sole purpose of proving it can be done.
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It can be done. It's more a question of why. That ski is severely compromised. If it was a one off or special build/ski I could see it.Quote:
Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher
cool repair thread and exhibit of will...
that damage pic is what i fear skiing at big sky. f'n rocks.
Having never skied Big Sky, what is it about the place that it has such a reputation for core shots?Quote:
Originally Posted by vegas
Its all andesite. One giant, steep, fucking scree pile. All loose super sharp rock, no granite.Quote:
Originally Posted by MegaStoke
The skiing is kickass though.
And at least it's loose so the damage is rarely catastrophic. Just tons of small core shots all the time.
Quick question - my daughter smacked up the tail of her Prodigy Ws. Twins. Top sheet is fine, but edge is bent down a bit right at the end of the tail. Only about a quarter inch, for about an inch and a half. Doesn't impact the skiing at all, even switch, but it's opened up the end to getting moisture into the lam. I'm planning on just cleaning it out, filling with epoxy, and clamping it down.
Is there a particular epoxy that you guys recommend? Mostly I just want it to stay dry, secondarily I'd like it to glue it back together.
See pic and thanks for your thoughts.
Attachment 303043Attachment 303045
^ I did a similar thing, yet smaller, to my new Lhasa, yes a shed a tear. I just used the highest strength slow cure epoxy i could find, gorilla glue. I first clamped it to try to straighten the metal edge, which it did a tiny bit.
I then filled it with epoxy and hit it with a heat gun with the ski pointed tip down so the epoxy would run into the crack.
Clamped it again and let it cure. Filed off the excess.
Super bomber.
Haha, it was one of those snow snakes, not a snow chainsaw. At least I think it was. Fucker got me last season around December in Salt Lake off Flagstaff peak to the East; not quite one of the Emmas. Nailed er good coming in hot. If I recall I was able to stay on my feet. Just slammed into it real good. Did a really shitty repair last year which held for a few days which worked because I wasn't skiing them much. Think I'll repair them for fun/rock skis.
What kind of carbon wrap should I purchase? Looks like there's a place in SLC who sells some little carbon sample patches which I think should work? Any opinions?
https://www.rockwestcomposites.com/m...amples-fabrics
Last thing, do I buy a resin as well to apply the carbon cloth? New one to this fellas. Thanks!
At least it's only 5 bucks to fix a core shot. The shops make their dollars in volume.Quote:
Originally Posted by NWFlow
We were standing in the tram line--my kid says "do you see what the bottoms of all the locals' skis look like?"
Can’t forget the wind. A slope can look like untouched blower and in reality it’s a 1/2 on top of a screw field. Good to know the mountain!
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Ha. My first winter in Crested Butte I mached into what I thought was untracked but was just this. Right in front of the T bar line too. Good times. I learned that day that at a mountain like that, if something is untracked there is probably a reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
Ahh sounds like my firstQuote:
Originally Posted by snowaddict91
Trip to snowbird. I skied some shit up there by great scott, (somebody told me my unfortunate line choice was called darth vader not sure though) anyway first two turns were money then I got to this 2 foot wide pinball line that was down a cliff band... It was like skiing a spike strip the whole way down to the point where my skis were completely hung up on jagged rocks and I got my body below my feet somehow... Smh No tracks no go
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If you're bound and determined I'll give a better response later. Carbon wrap will be a waste of time & $ though.Quote:
Originally Posted by onearmwanderer
That would be very much appreciated! I'm not in a huge rush to repair them, no hurry. It looks like you're SLC based? Happy to drop you off a sixer as well for your time!
Big man fall hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher
Actually I didn't go down. It was a no fall zoneQuote:
Originally Posted by thefortrees
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Hey man just wanted to follow up, any further advice?
Hey man, I just wanted to follow up on this! I appreciate the help!Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
Just finished this repair:
Before:
Attachment 311414
After:
Attachment 311415
I wanted to follow up and show the repair of my splitboard that suffered a core shot that cracked the core and edge for the benefit of anyone considering a similar repair. You can see a description and photos of the damage here: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...42#post5640742
After some really helpful suggestions and warnings from tuco, ctsmith, dtruser, and fatnslow, I decided to attempt a repair. It seems like the repair is holding so far (knock on wood) after a handful of days in the backcountry and a couple of hours in bounds.
Materials:
Carbon fiber cloth (a cheap biaxial carbon fiber swatch I found on ebay)
G/Flex 650 epoxy
ptex base patch (https://www.tognar.com/p-tex-ski-base-patch-material/)
small square of thin closed cell foam from hobby store (to pad the base when clamped to even out forces while drying)
Tools:
Paint scraper
Utility Knife
Exacto knife
Epoxy squeegee (diy made from some flexible plastic from takeout lids)
Power sander / sand paper
Masking/painter tape (for taping the cut area of the carbon fiber to prevent edge fray)
flathead screwdriver and various pliers (for prying and bending the edge back flat).
dremmel (to remove rust from areas of the steel edge )
1. First, I peeled off some of the base to inspect the damage. It looks like a core shot crushed a small area of core near the edge and cracked the edge. The wood core and bottom layer of fiberglass eventually cracked about half way across the "ski" (one side of the splitboard) after a couple of seasons of use (when I noticed the base repairs falling out and ptex starting to crack across the base)
Attachment 312826
2. It took me a long time to peel off the ptex base from the board but I probably did more work than I needed to. The ptex was stubborn to come off. If I had to do it again, I would probably use a heated scraper / knife to hot scrape as much of the base off as possible. I ended up sanding the fiberglass and core anyway, so it didn't matter if some bits of base remained. My painfully slow method: cutting small strips and peeling the strips by paint scraper and twisting the strip around a pair of needle nose pliers (think opening old fashioned sardine can by twisting the can top sheet around a metal "key"). The black parts of ptex were harder, and I basically had to paint scrape them off milimeter by milimeter.
I used part of a dinner plate to outline the area of base to extract and also cut the base patch. I cut a big area because I wanted a lot of area for the carbon cloth to reinforce the crack.
Attachment 312827
Attachment 312828
3. I sanded a sort of shallow crater into the area so that I could add multiple layers of carbon cloth. I started with a smaller patch of carbon cloth in the middle (deepest part of the crater) and then added progressively larger patches that eventually covered the area I had cut out of the base. I ended up with 4 layers of carbon in the center ending with 1 layer of carbon at the outer edge. That would hopefully make the patch progressive in flex.
I taped the edges of the carbon fiber cloth before I cut it with masking/painters tape to prevent fraying. I cut the carbon cloth with an exacto knife. However, it was difficult to pull the tape off, so I ended up soaking the carbon and tape in alcohol, sliding the tape off, and drying out the cloth.
I also pried away some of the cracked edge from the core so I could bend it back and both sides of the cracked edge sat flush and flat against the core. Most people seemed to suggest not replaced an edge section unless necessary (creating 2 cuts in the edge where there is 1). I also dremmeled off some rust from areas of the edge.
Attachment 312829
Attachment 312830
Attachment 312831
4. Finally, I mixed some epoxy and layered on alternating coats of epoxy and carbon fiber cloth. I used a DIY squeegee to make sure each layer of carbon cloth was wetted out with epoxy. Finally I layered on the ptex base patch that I had cut to match to cut out of the base. I clamped the whole thing together using two pieces of flat wood and some c-clamps with a thin piece of closed cell foam covering the base. I left it for 48 hours. I would suggest possibly covering the board with plastic bag before clamping it between the wood. My wood got epoxied to the board.
When I finally removed the clamps, I did realize that my ptex patch had slipped a tiny bit. One edge of the patch had ridden up onto the original base and the other side had a tiny gap filled by epoxy. Once I sanded it down, it wasn't a big deal, however.
I used a "clear" ptex patch so I could hopefully see any cracking in my repair as it starts.
Attachment 312832
Attachment 312833
So far, the repair seems to be holding. I don't notice a difference in stiffness when I'm riding, but I'm not super sensitive to that kind of thing. I will emphasize that I'm a light rider ( 140lbs), mostly ride my splitboard in powder, and I don't stomp gigantic features. I probably don't stress my board as much as some, and I won't be touring far from the car anytime soon. In fact, it took me a couple of seasons to notice that a crack in the core was spreading from a core shot. I can also tour on my skis if I run into problems with my spitboard. I'll update if I encounter a catastrophic failure in the future.
Was it worth it? It depends. There's definitely some time and stress involved even though the project seems simple. I did learn a lot, and I would like to eventually build my own diy splitboard. If I get a core shot on a board/skis that I really care about in the future, I might consider doing a repair like this before things get worse.
Ok I hate the search function. I’m certain this has been covered but I can’t find it. I have a tail separation I’m trying to fix. I epoxied it back together but it split again. Trying a second time.
Do we like JB Weld or West System G Flex? It’s about 1.5” wide and .75” into the ski. Nothing really broken, just a separation, though the edge is bent at the separation.
Post some pics.Quote:
Originally Posted by beece
This might be a good use of a T nut or similar bolt to hold it together.
Attachment 314726Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Attachment 314727
Attachment 314728
Attachment 314729
Thanks for any thoughts. It’s the tail of a twin tip Prodigy Faction W. If you scroll down about 10-15 posts you can see what it looked like before I epoxied it last time. It got worse when it re-popped.
you gotta get the edge back into shape, clean out what looks like damaged core wood and replace with fiberglass matting if the void is too much
i'm a fan of g-flex for most all ski repairs
Thanks. Just ordered some g flex and will be clamping it up this week. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by detuned
[QUOTEThis might be a good use of a T nut or similar bolt to hold it together.][/QUOTE]
I was thinking possibly rivets. Anyone recall K2 Public Enemy, park skis, looked like they had rivets tip and tail. Or just cosmetic I dunno.
Attachment 316194
I have similar tail damage/delam and can't get the edge to lay down flat. I have it pretty clean sand blasted and confident the epoxy will hold, but don't like the idea of that metal wanting to push it all apart after. Any thoughts there?
Attachment 316199Attachment 316200
I was thinking possibly rivets. Anyone recall K2 Public Enemy, park skis, looked like they had rivets tip and tail. Or just cosmetic I dunno.Quote:
Originally Posted by unclebill
Attachment 316194
I have similar tail damage/delam and can't get the edge to lay down flat. I have it pretty clean sand blasted and confident the epoxy will hold, but don't like the idea of that metal wanting to push it all apart after. Any thoughts there?
Attachment 316199Attachment 316200[/QUOTE]
Get the smallest nut/bolt you can buy at the hadware store, drill a hole through the edge tab(s) through to the top of ski, then bolt it down with the nuts on the top side, seal top with epoxy, then repair the base over the head of the nut(s) at the edge. I don't know if the base repair will require cutting out the loose piece or just epoxy under the base material. My buddy has done quite few repairs like this on his kid's park skis for broken edges on tips/tails with good success. the base repair is not a huge concern since it's not actual running surface, you just need to make it water tight to prevent base delam from traveling.
The Public Enemy skis did have rivet like things going through the tips and tails. Don't know how much was structural reinforcement vs fashion.
the bent portion of the edge doesn't look too bent out of shape
bash it back to shape with a hammer and a 2x4 underneath
then fill with epoxy/glass as needed and clamp
Thats correct it isn't bent that bad, but just banging on it won't get it straight. Its like a spring and there is no room to bend it down the other way enough to get the bend out of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by detuned
On those Factions just below your photo I just G Flexed it and clamped the hell out of it. It held upon clamp removal a day and a half later, but we shall see if it stays during use.Quote:
Originally Posted by unclebill
Epoxy, clamp and hope is easy enough to try also. But I do like the idea of trying for a better chance to make it permanent by having that edge pinched down. Possibly like an add on tip protector. Or tail protector in this case. Does it exist? I'm going to look into it.
Let us know if you find something.
Thinking something like this but haven't found it yet
Attachment 316650
Bump. Looking to do a repair like jindustry did, but on an old Rossi monoski. I only had it out one day then the edge blew and the sheet of base material detached.
Any suggestions for re-adhering the sheet of base material once I fix the edge? Just a bunch of epoxy spread out?
Attachment 318799
Attachment 318800
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Bump. Anybody have thoughts on re-adhering base sheets?