To bring this thread back on topic....this beachie is a board breaker :smile:
http://www.surfingmagazine.com/wp-co...8-1-146664.jpg
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To bring this thread back on topic....this beachie is a board breaker :smile:
http://www.surfingmagazine.com/wp-co...8-1-146664.jpg
No pizzing here. But extra curious now.
I've surfed SoCal probably a total of ten times. Never had any real issues. Surfed Lowers, Salt Creek and a few other spots. I guess I was lucky, because it never seemed all too crowded or too douched up. Both Lowers and Salt Creek reminded me of a lot of EC busy locales. Lots of aggressive paddlers, but generally a low skill level. Sure there were a few total rippers, but mostly just lots of folks in the water.
I've never really experienced a spot where localism made things better - in the sense of regulating the line up - unless you too were a local. Never have seen where it was regulated for the general good.
Perhaps I am looking at localism wrong. I see the guys that enforce the rule - if I don't know you, you don't get a wave. If instead I saw them policing the line up to improve etiquette, and I might see it differently.
As for the internet. No body understands me either.
EDIT for slow reply and missing several posts before posting. I guess that happens when holding the babe in one handle, bottle in the other and typing with whats left. Great pic, but it needs a speed bump in it to remain on topic.
http://www.contentwire.com/img/PlWucKs4F4-uBdYp.JPG
I started to think I should have made this point earlier but I kinda gummed up this post already and didn't want to cvnt it up anymore than I had already.Quote:
I see the guys that enforce the rule - if I don't know you, you don't get a wave. If instead I saw them policing the line up to improve etiquette, and I might see it differently.
The 2nd example is what I think makes sense.
Where a local person politely educates the new guy in the lineup that they are putting others in danger of injury, that person either chooses to accept the advice and learn more about etiquette or possibly snub their nose at the person. If the new person continues to snub their nose then I can understand (not advocate) why that might reach a boiling point.
The "i don't know your face" type of localism is just a bunch of angry guys that would find something else to be angry at, even if they didn't surf.
I think I'm too old to give this wave a try ;
http://www.robotvsbadger.com/wp-cont...PG-300x200.jpg
I don't know if it's the 10 hr days at the car shows or something (many things really) about the movie, but I fell asleep right in the middle of Blue Crush 2. I'll try again tonight because there is some good footie mixed in there and I have to see who gets the girl at the end, of course. Which girl, you ask? This athlete here, and I wonder how the bikini stays on anyway? I guess it's all the extra string. :rolleyes: :D
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...onthebeach.png
I'm guessing spray adhesive. The last string bikini I saw in surfing didn't stay on :D
Big Wednesday for the old school surf scene.
Big Wednesday is an excellent pic. Gary at his best. And the GAH.
Huh, the whole thing's on utube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPyQJ6zct1k
Netflix too. Will watch tonight.
Wait, the general consensus is that when, in any surf(hollow or not) , someone is endangering your well-being, someone should politely point out to that person that they're being a dick? When someone drops in on you, they are physically threatening your person. It's not pointing a gun, it's not swinging a knife, but surf fins cut. Deep. Boards break bones and smash skulls. I don't see a collision in hollow surf NOT winding up in a trip to the hospital. A maggot just posted where a guy was getting shacked in Indo, a guy paddling out didn't observe the rules of the lineup, and the guy in the tube died. Skier code of conduct stands up in court. Does it with surfing, or does surfing police itself? I think there's something to be said for being afraid to drop in on someone. That's why I apologize like a mofo when I accidentally drop in on someone. I never do it intentionally.
Kala Alexander is a punk. He is open about violence, he has questionable legal principles, and I don't condone his actions. That said, when he was talking about Pipe, and The Wolfpak, I almost could see where he was coming from. Now, everyone has seen the video where he beat down the developmentally delayed kid. Perfect example of what I don't like about the guy. However, many people have died at Pipe. He mentioned that a Pipe drop-in can cost you your life. Is that worth a chew out? A board break? What if you do it twice?
I don't condone violence. If someone swung a board at you on the street, you could legally beat their fucking ass. If they drop in on you in the water, and you warn them not to do it again, you just threatened their life. I don't get involved in disputes in the water. I can count on one hand the times I've screamed at someone while surfing. I've never splashed water at someone, never pulled a leash when they were paddling. However, I don't think that the occasional display of wrath is that bad. It keeps things in check.
jesus.. I tried to watch that Big Wednesday last night and the only thing that kept me going was a sort of morbid amazement at young Gary Busey. I think I fell asleep before the good part.
edit: went back and watched epic ending. ok ok. pretty good.
I think you need to be stoned grom to truly appreciate it.
I think you are correct on all counts, and that most here would agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by BS720
I look at localism as something different than what you are talking about. You are talking about etiquette, and understanding the rules for the sake of safety. If someone does something dumb, and dangerous, they need to be told NOT to do it again. There is nothing wrong with that.
To some extent, the good local surfers will get the best waves anyway: They are skilled, and they know the wave very well, so it will be tough for new guys to legitimately get waves. I see localism, as robbing outsiders of waves they have legitimately gotten. It often involves blatant drop-ins, and basically acting as if the non-local does not exist.
We all need to be smart. When you are paddling out to a place with a tight takeoff zone, somewhere you don't surf much, don't paddle right up and start hassling. Wait, and watch what is going on. Make sure you fully understand the spot before you paddle right to the main peak. Don't paddle back right in the way of folks on waves......Most of these things are self-evident, just don't be an idiot basically.
Kala is a thug, but I do understand what he is saying about Pipe. A drop-in at Pipe is a very dangerous thing. I think some of his message is good, I just don't like his methods.
Part of the problem with Pipe is that it is so damn crowded. I don't see how outsiders will ever really learn to surf it.
how to get an in? meet some of the thugs from the wolfpack somewhere else in the world (where they still act like thugs) show you can surf and you are "in"
^^Or you show them you can do meth and you are in.
fifyQuote:
Originally Posted by BS720
1234
coke is it
yeah BW isn't the greatest movie ever. it is better than BC or BC2
I liked Blue Crush a lot. Will def watch again. It's a chick flick that's actually legit, not just a formula love story. Issues, fears, aspirations, etc that every girl faces, especially when love interferes with a goal. Chicks let love hold them back all the time. There were even some important nuances, like the question of whether the football player would respect/admire/love her if she failed to compete. I think not. A great story.
Blue Crush 2 just sucks on so many levels. Not even gonna start.
As far as Big Wednesday, Jan Michael Vincent is the hotness. I'll try to write a better review, but right now he's got my mind all befuddled. So much hotness.
Of course I wondered what happened to Jan Michael Vincent. http://www.lostmag.com/issue27/jan.php
Holy shady shades on the down climb to the surf tonight. Huge bluff that I had to improvise on do to construction on the train tracks.
The sandstone was just crumbling from under my feet At about 12-15' up and all this with a bum knee :rolleyes:
Glassy and empty chest high peaks on a Friday after work was the payoff!! :cool::cool:
Netflix has Surfing Hollow Days on it for streaming, an early Bruce Brown movie. Just watched and loved it! He said that only in California will you get glassy water, beautiful footage of that, so I've got a nice mental image of your rides. :)
Also footage of the first pipeline rides, and an 18 mile ski descent in New Zealand. Nice looking snow too. Great flick.
He said that waves in Australia are formed from the wind, Hawaii and Cal from groundswell. Therefore Aus is really choppy. And they need shark towers there. Daaaaamn.
Also finished Big Wednesday. I liked it a lot, but it made me sad too. It's a story about growing up and losing your friends and losing touch with your joy de vie. Sad.
I am enjoying watching how those old schoolers stand on their boards all relaxed and arching back, like they're about to fall over backwards any second. It's got almost a silliness to it. I like. :)
california can get oily glass and I think the EC and Gulf as well.
I recall after xmas through January a few years ago that me and my buddy scored something ridiculous like 5-6 weeks of 7 days a week glassy mid afternoon session. The surf didn't drop below headhigh the entire time and we just sat out there alone everyday mid week all giddy and chit. There were some mind blowing sessions we had just he and I sharing this magical little sandbar that was just dropping corduroy lines on us for weeks straight.
I can't take it anymore, I'm going surfing.......
Bruce Brown is a talker. He likes to make up a lot of shit. All waves (except tsunami) are made from wind. Just a little bit of wind, and you get shorter period, and generally small swell that diminish locally. Stronger, more persistent winds create longer period, and generally larger swells, that travel thousands of miles with much less decay. It act more like a wave moving through the water medium, as opposed as energy moving across the surface of the water (and effected by friction).
Not all waves in CA are groundswell. Not all waves on the east coast of Oz are wind swell. But I bet it was a good flick. You should be able to pick up Endless Summer on netflix as well. Step into Liquid was an okay doc, and should be easy enough to find.
Oh. And the east coast can often be way more oily glass than central CA.
Sounds like you already know this but wind velocity is one part, duration and fetch are also major contributors
Bruce Brown reminds me of Warren Miller, very congenial, amusing. I'll bear in mind not to take him at his word!
Yup, Endless Summer is there, will watch again. Just watched a really good one, Bustin Down the Door, these Ali style smack talkers come from South Africa and Austrailia to the North Shore in the mid 70s. Yes, they can surf and they turned surfing into a moneymaking proposition. But they piss off Da Hui. So much insight in that movie.
Like with all art, when you start doing it for the money, you are stealing its soul. Or your own soul.
I am starting to gain some insight into Hawaii, I think. Trying to be informed about the "apartheid" that exists today. The people are very complex, many facets, with important history. Population decimated from disease, built back through free intermarriage with all races. Land and water use and property issues in the context of a people that didn't have the same vision of "property". Warm and welcoming people with a powerful history of war and fighting also. A culture that was smothered by missionaries and being recreated and reinvented. I could go on, it's an education for sure. But really just an intellectual exercise for me until I go there and live and see with my own eyes. I'm fascinated.
In the meantime, I actually got in the water at Sunny Cove, the warmest spot I could find. Fack that was hard. And I was numb in ten minutes. My focus this summer has been leg strength and cardiovascular fitness, to new levels. My hill climbs are what matter the most right now and I'm grooving on that.
As far as wave mechanics, and how swells are formed over thousands of miles of ocean, I'm not really understanding yet. Could use something "for dummies". I don't even know what fetch is?
edit - Ottime I read your post on swell again about five times. I'm learning, long way to go. You're a good teacher. Thanks. :)
Fetch is basically the area over which wind blows. It is two dimension, and the width of a fetch plays a role in how consistent the swell is. A wider fetch decrease lateral swell decay. Think of dropping a stone in a wide pool - waves spread in every direction and diminish. Drop the same stone in a narrow channel, and see how the wavs are forced to move just up/down the channel, and decay slower. Bad analogy, but the wide channel of wind acts similarly, where as a narrow area of wind allows waves to move out of the fetch, and decay, instead of grow.
Also, how a fetch moves is important. If it is pointed at you - good. If it is moving toward you - even better. If it is moving away from you, resulting swell will be much much smaller.
More from the pros here:
btw. swell on the way for this week.
Ooooh swell. If you can give me any kind of heads up, I will come and watch some real surfing and bring my camera too. Very exciting. Pleasure Point guy keeps saying that he needs to show me things but there's no swell so maybe he'll come out.
Where's the best place to watch and get pics as close up as possible? My kit lens does not zoom much. The lighthouse where the surf museum is? Haven't been over there in so many years. Would be cool.
Just not Thurs because they're giving out aquarium tix at the library and I need to stand in line for that. Well I could do Thursday night, low light / sunset shots might be pretty. Maybe crash overnight and catch dawn shots as well. Just let me know when!?!
I wasn't trying to quiz you ottime, I know you know your stuff and I know you only post when you know what your talking about. I was mentioning it so others realize how complex it is. Stormsurf is the goods on info and it's definitely geared to serious surfers thirsty for info, models and maps. I love the site. I also love virtual fetch :biggrin:
Ok, I have a plan. Will come to SC on Thurs afternoon. Hang out between Wind and Sea and Rockview with my camera through sunset and again at dawn. Dawn pics might suck due to fog though...
Love this referenceQuote:
Originally Posted by BS720
24.4 seconds at the Oceanside buoy, wow. Seems like the swell is arrivingQuote:
Sea Height: 4.7 ft
Primary Swell Height: 2.8 ft
Primary Swell Period: 24.4 secs
Primary Swell Direction: 205 degrees
Surf Height: 5.4-6.8 ft
http://www.stormsurf.com/cgi-bin/shiro.cgi?a=045
I just heard from pleasure point that it's up.
I know this is silly, but I'm excited like it's a powder storm. I can still remember the first time I stood at the base of Loveland ski area and watched everyone flying down the mountain toward me, before I started skiing. It was such a rush...
One of the coolest things for me about a good size south swell is to look at pictures or watch the video from Teaupoo, Hawaii or Central America as the swell hits those locations and then go surf the very same energy days later at your local break. The energy is shared across the ocean by all that choose to partake, which is pretty cool to think someone might have surfed that same energy down in Indo or the south pacific.
Here is this same swell hitting south shore oahu yesterday. Might not be as good here but still cool to watch what we're about to surf :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeoC_koEzd8&feature=player_detailpage