Carbon dork

I blame Particle. Thanks a lot J :)
http://www.biglines.com/sites/defaul..._o.preview.jpg

For Trail riding...

Frame: Med HD 160 w/ Kashima RP23
Fork: 170mm Lyric Solo Air - 1-1/8" steerer - DH damper
Headset: Cane Creek 110 (Zero stack upper, external lower) - 10mm spacers under stem
Stem: 70mm Chromag Ranger
Bars: 710mm Noir Carbon Riser Bars
Shifters: SRAM XX
Brakes: Avid Elixer CR's (last gen) (203mm F, 185 R)
Grips: Lizard Skin Peaty Lock-on
Cable Housing: Jagwire L3 - Blue, (If I can't be pretty at least my bike can)
Seatpost: 4" Gravity Dropper (old now, but reliable and the cable attachment is fixed in place)
Saddle: WTB Silverado SLT
Front Derailleur: SRAM XO High Direct Mount
Cranks: SRAM XX 26/39 w/ 166Q-factor
Pedals: Crank Brother Candy 3
Rear Derailleur: SRAM XX
Cassette: SRAM XX 11-36
Chain: SRAM 1091R
Front Hub: WTB Super Duty 20mm
Rear Hub: American Classic Disc 225 - converted to 142x12mm (note - added 0.5mm shim to shift cassette away from frame)
Spokes: DT Swiss Supercomps
Rims: Stans Crest w/ yellow tape
Tires: 2.25 Hutchnison Cobra, love this tire for Utah XC riding, fast and rails corners
Sealant: Caffe Latex (while it's not gonna seal a gash I find it seals up a tire well for the long haul and doesn't soften the casing like Stans does.)

Weight: 27.8lbs

For more serious riding in places like Moab, or legit jump trails, I switch a few items...

Front Hub: Hadley 20mm (Santa Cruz logo'd)
Rear Hub: Hadley 108pt converted to 142x12mm
Spokes: DT Swiss Supercomps
Rims: Stans' Flow's w/ yellow tape
Tires: Kenda 2.35, BBG's
Pedals: Diety Decoy LT's

Weight: 29.8lbs

Chain Guide: waiting for the new MRP X2 for this bike...please, please, please Ibis and MRP
Would consider going to a coil as well, especially since I have the right size Ti spring already.

Damn, that is a sweet ride, phatfreehealer.

One thing I've noticed is that very few people have the 140/140 HD set up. Nor are there any reviews of that set up. I wonder why that is.

Thanks AK...

I believe it is because most people who would want the strength of the HD and only 140mm of travel also want <68 deg HA and <13.5" BB. If I had gone that route I might have just waited till next year and bought an SL-R, but I was a bit scared it would not survive long with me riding it and casing jumps ;)

So those of you who have ridden the HD with a coil shock and the RP23, how does the pedaling experience differ?

I've had a couple rides on a couple different HDs, both with RP23s ("low" tune), and I was left wanting a coil on the descent- the frame is soooo solid that the overdamped RP23 felt like it was the weak link in the operation.

I played with the pressures, and found that what worked well on the climbs was 10-15psi too much for the descents. That still doesn't fix the overdamped shock though....

Is an HD with a coil shock an acceptable "enduro" bike or is it just to soft/plush/active to pedal for extended periods of time?

Think a Cane Creek DBair fits in there? :biggrin:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by phatfreeheeler

Thanks AK...

I believe it is because most people who would want the strength of the HD and only 140mm of travel also want <68 deg HA and <13.5" BB. If I had gone that route I might have just waited till next year and bought an SL-R, but I was a bit scared it would not survive long with me riding it and casing jumps ;)

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Fair points. As far as I can tell though, the SL-R doesn't have any significant advantage over the HD. The weight difference, in my recollection, is marginal. If I had the money, I'd build up a HD 140 with a Revelation and maybe use an Angleset headset to slacken it out a little (if necessary). But now that I think about it, I think hardboiled has the smaller set-up HD.

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Originally Posted by AKbruin

Fair points. As far as I can tell though, the SL-R doesn't have any significant advantage over the HD. The weight difference, in my recollection, is marginal. If I had the money, I'd build up a HD 140 with a Revelation and maybe use an Angleset headset to slacken it out a little (if necessary). But now that I think about it, I think hardboiled has the smaller set-up HD.

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yup, I'm running 150/140 on mine. too bad N* didn't work out this weekend, I was going to suggest swapping bikes for a run. I'm digging it in "little bike" mode. it's got a ~67.5* HA and ~13.2" BB w/ 2.35 tires. I've contemplated getting slacker headset cups or putting my Lyrik back on but really, it's pretty dialed as is. I'll prob try it with the Lyrik this winter just cuz it's gathering dust but having ridden the forks back to back, it's hard to justify the extra 1+lb for 10mm additional travel and a marginal stiffness gain. the Revelation w/ tapered steerer and 20mm axle is pretty solid up front and very underrated IMO.

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Originally Posted by hardboiled

yup, I'm running 150/140 on mine. too bad N* didn't work out this weekend, I was going to suggest swapping bikes for a run. I'm digging it in "little bike" mode. it's got a ~67.5* HA and ~13.2" BB w/ 2.35 tires. I've contemplated getting slacker headset cups or putting my Lyrik back on but really, it's pretty dialed as is. I'll prob try it with the Lyrik this winter just cuz it's gathering dust but having ridden the forks back to back, it's hard to justify the extra 1+lb for 10mm additional travel and a marginal stiffness gain. the Revelation w/ tapered steerer and 20mm axle is pretty solid up front and very underrated IMO.

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That pretty much sounds like my ideal set up. What's the weight? I want a 5.5-6" bike that weighs around 27 pounds, pedals well and without the need for constant propedal adjustments, a HA between 67 and 68, and a BB around 13.5. Oh, and it'd be great if I could swing it for under $3500. It's that last requirement that's my biggest problem.

I totally would have been down to switch bikes at N*. My Rose-to-Toads attempt was a spectacular failure--I fucked my (literally) brand new derailleur within the first 30 minutes and ended up cutting out at Chimney, which still made for a good ride. There's a chance I might be in the Bay Area this weekend. Is Solstice open yet?

it was 29something when I weighed in for the DV race, which included 900g of tires and a Reverb seatpost. 27 and change with a Thomson post and lighter tires setup tubeless.

I haven't been up to Solstice in months but maybe I'll check it out this week. I don't think it's officially open yet, though. regardless there's good stuff to ride, hit me up if you make it down here.

I ran mine in 140 (RP23) with a 160 fork for just over half the season, loved it. Then switched to an Elka coil in 160 mode, 170 fork (same fork, just pulled out the travel limiter).

In short, the Elka really made me realize how the RP23 skipped around in the back. Not badly, but the Elka just keeps the rear planted on any and all terrain, no matter what. I did notice a significant loss in pedaling efficiency going from 140 air to 160 coil though. It still pedals great, but I was really happy with the angles on the 140/160 and the efficiency and the smaller, fun bike feel.

Basically, I think I'm going back to air 140/160 very soon here, and leaving it at that. And I also think a 140 rear with 150 Revelation with 20 mm axle and an angleset would be SICK.

I will still keep the coil around for burly rides like Dark Hollow and UPS/LPS/Porcupine though.

Good looking rig PFH!

Next spring I'll get on the Mojo (or SB-66 carbon!) bandwagon.

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Originally Posted by Particle

Basically, I think I'm going back to air 140/160 very soon here, and leaving it at that. And I also think a 140 rear with 150 Revelation with 20 mm axle and an angleset would be SICK.

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Maybe before you switch it back we can get a ride in and compare them back to back. (I'll add the tougher bits back on and some flat pedals ;) ) I'd really like to find a volume reducer kit for my rp23 cause I think that would help me dial in the rear suspension a ton. I don't think this bike needs a high volume air can.

mojo hd 140 + monarch plus + revelation 150 = hotness

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Originally Posted by marshalolson

mojo hd 140 + vivid air + revelation 150 = hotness

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Almost went this route, but decided that it would cost me too much to buy another Revelation this year(just got the wife an XX-WC) and I would still want more then 140mm travel in places like Moab. I can't see switching both the front and rear suspension every time I go to the desert. Also, can't get a Rev WC with a 20mm axle and that would be the ultimate hotness.

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Originally Posted by marshalolson

mojo hd 140 + monarch plus + revelation 150 = hotness

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You jumping off the Reign X bandwagon? Ya, I realize they're two fairly different bikes, but 1 bike quivers nonetheless

Quote:

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Originally Posted by marshalolson

mojo hd 140 + monarch plus + revelation 150 = hotness

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My dream setup...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lev

You jumping off the Reign X bandwagon? Ya, I realize they're two fairly different bikes, but 1 bike quivers nonetheless

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for a long travel trail bike, IMO:

reign x > mojo hd

for a short travel xc/trail bike, mojo hd 140 = hotness

Quote:

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Originally Posted by phatfreeheeler

I'd really like to find a volume reducer kit for my rp23 cause I think that would help me dial in the rear suspension a ton. I don't think this bike needs a high volume air can.

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Use some sheet p-tex or the outer cover from a CD-R/DVD-R case or some big, fat rubber bands. I know you're too particular to do that long term, but it's a good way to play with the volume and see if you like the change.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

Use some sheet p-tex or the outer cover from a CD-R/DVD-R case or some big, fat rubber bands. I know you're too particular to do that long term, but it's a good way to play with the volume and see if you like the change.

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Thanks D...I almost did that but then I found the kit isn't that expensive if you just call Fox direct. They have great customer service. You know me pretty well cause the idea of doing a hack mod on a brand new shock wasn't something I was stoked on. The Kashima coating just looks too pretty ;)

BTW - trying to make the trip south work out...would be good to get the band back together for a weekend...We'll see :)

Hey, how tall are you carbon dorks riding the HDs and what size frames did you go with? What size would a 5'10" dude be riding? Just curious... :rolleyes2

6'2" riding an XL. I think at 5'10" you'll be good on the L. Ibis has a fairly short top tube and I actually wish it came with a shorter seat tube. If I were to get a 5" drop post, it would be sitting right on the collar. Otherwise stellar bike and an even more stellar customer service. I'm interested to try the SB-66 out due to its longer TT on the Large, but it would be VERY difficult to leave Ibis' CS.

Since I'm writing, anybody have a good suggestion for a November bike trip? Have never ridden in the States and thinking of taking a week during the shoulder season.

5'10" on a medium, 70mm stem. If I never took the bike on true jump trails I might have gone large with a 50mm stem. I consider myself in-between sizes. I want an 18" seat tube and a 23.4" TT. If I had the large with a 19" seat tube I wouldn't be able to drop my gravity dropper far enough for jumping (I like 6" of drop for that stuff). So it's a touch small for trail riding, but fun as hell too. Especially now that I've gotten the rear shock dialed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lev

Hey, how tall are you carbon dorks riding the HDs and what size frames did you go with? What size would a 5'10" dude be riding? Just curious... :rolleyes2

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Definitely a medium. I'm 5'10" and the M is spot-on. But, I like shorter cockpits... so robnow has a point. If you like a more stretched-out XC feel, go L. He also has a point about the tall seat tube - it annoyed me on the first ride or two, but now I don't even notice it. Still if I could change anything about the bike, that'd be it - shorten the seat tube.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by robnow

Since I'm writing, anybody have a good suggestion for a November bike trip? Have never ridden in the States and thinking of taking a week during the shoulder season.

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That time of year, snow is the limiting factor in the west. Been to Moab late into November and had some amazing rides, but snow is always a possibility.

Back East, you could hit Pisgah near Asheville, or George Washington National Forest in Central VA. Great Fall weather that time of year, but also shitloads of leaves on trails.

What about mojo sizing for a 5'8 chick with a 32" inseam? I ride a medium 6.6 and small Demo. The medium 6.6 is a little big for the way I like to ride now, so I'm thinking a small, but not sure...

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Originally Posted by Particle

Still if I could change anything about the bike, that'd be it - shorten the seat tube.

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+1, it would be the only thing i would change, oh, and the tire clearance to the seat tube, but I'm on the first gen so they've done that already. I almost wish they had the same TT lengths and sized down, i.e.. XL TT with a L ST, and so on. I've seen one local guy and some of the MTBR builds with ridiculous XL setups(lots of spacers, long stem, tall seat post) and I think there would be a lot of people appreciating a bigger sized Ibis.

Thanks BT-All I can think of is Moab and Arizona. Any Arizona specifics anyone?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LaBelle23

What about mojo sizing for a 5'8 chick with a 32" inseam? I ride a medium 6.6 and small Demo. The medium 6.6 is a little big for the way I like to ride now, so I'm thinking a small, but not sure...

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Regular 6.6 or SS? Both have short TT's but different seat tubes.

I'd think you'll like the short 22.2" TT on the small, but you'll have a ton of seatpost sticking out w/32" inseam and 15" ST. The medium will have plenty of seatpost but will be even longer than the 6.6.

I'm 5'11" on a large HD 140, and it feels none too big with a 90mm stem. But I'm coming off of XC bikes and still dialing the fit.

Particle, Hope you don't mind me coppin yo steeze, but I am about to pull the trigger on one of these in the next few weeks. Black with blue links, too.

Man, everyone is going to be rockin' Tron for Halloween this year :D

Phall, you going with a brand new frame? I started hunting around for some used stuff. There was a dude in Vegas who was selling a pristine HD for $4600. I gotta sell my Endorphin before I can throw down on anything, but man his bike was super sexy. Probably had over $7000 in it. I'm not opposed to buying used if it's basically brand new. Scares me a little bit with warranty issues, but his bike's components alone would've made it worth it. And I have a feeling that Ibis would probably still help me out if I had a broken triangle on a 2nd hand bike. Could be wishful thinking. Who knows

Heh, no worries P! They are definitely getting more popular around Utah.

Yeah, brand new. I now technically work for a dealer :) Waiting on some funds, but the full xt trigger will be pulled in the next 7 days or so.

I just read this post, and I have to say the Ibis looks to have a well made frame. I have a 2009 S-works Enduro, and the frame has undulations and bumps in it. They are molding imperfections. Not what one expects in such a pricey bike.

Hey, not sure if it's come up in this thread or not, but is anyone rocking a CC angleset on this bad boy?

I'm on the line with a guy and getting close to closing the deal :D He's willing to throw in the angleset for an additional $100. I'm a headset JONG and have no idea if I want this. All i know is that it would save me the hassle of trying to buy a new headset as well as an adapter for my 1 1/8 straight steerer.

Thoughts/suggestions? Gracias

I don't know anyone that has one on an HD, but I think it could be sweet if you like an even slacker setup. Just be aware of the nasty 'clacking' noise they are known for making when the bearings shift in the headset cup. Go-Ride has been super gluing them into the cups to prevent it, but then you can't easily replace bearings if needed.

Ya, I read about the clacking noise. Sounds like some people have been able to remedy it. According to the guy I'm buying from, it's a tightening/installation issue, and he says he hasn't had the issue on his ride.

I figure the best case scenario is that I get the bike and I don't have to mess with the headset at all. Just install my fork as is, and go out and enjoy the new technology. I can also play around with the geo and make for some interesting combos if I get bored.

Worst case scenario is that I get the bike, ride it, listen to the clacking and want to put a drill to my head, and eventually swap it out for a non-clacking headset. Sell said clacking headset here or on mtbr and life goes on.

I think i'll give it a shot. Stay tuned for more

Well...

It's looking like I'll be joining the Dork Squad officially next Mon (Fuck ya!). My frame is in transit from Wilson, WY. Bought a "lightly" used M HD that's in "mint" condition. Couldn't be more excited to get on a new frame, especially this one.

I'll be doing a bike swap off my Knolly Endorphin. My main concern at the moment is transferring the drivetrain. Looking at Ibis' site, it appears that they designed the HD for the newer 2x10 systems, or even 1x10 for ultimate simplicity.

Looking at the MTBR page for Ibis, I think folks are having drivetrain issues. I'm currently rocking a Shimano XT crankset 24/34 and a 11-34 casette.

For the dudes running the HD, how was drivetrain set up for you guys? Any suggestions? I do plan on going 2x10 or 1x10 after Xmas, but I need my current setup to last till then.

Thanks. Pics to follow

mine's in the build stage. will be rideable by this weekend, but not fully done done until this winter. Pics once I get phase one dialed

Rocking XT 24/36/Bash x 11-36(10 speed) on first generation. XT front derailleur with screw limiting movement. Works perfect.

I think the only people having issues are:
XX front derailleur can't get low enough on first generation frame?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lev

Well...

It's looking like I'll be joining the Dork Squad officially next Mon (Fuck ya!). My frame is in transit from Wilson, WY. Bought a "lightly" used M HD that's in "mint" condition. Couldn't be more excited to get on a new frame, especially this one.

I'll be doing a bike swap off my Knolly Endorphin. My main concern at the moment is transferring the drivetrain. Looking at Ibis' site, it appears that they designed the HD for the newer 2x10 systems, or even 1x10 for ultimate simplicity.

Looking at the MTBR page for Ibis, I think folks are having drivetrain issues. I'm currently rocking a Shimano XT crankset 24/34 and a 11-34 casette.

For the dudes running the HD, how was drivetrain set up for you guys? Any suggestions? I do plan on going 2x10 or 1x10 after Xmas, but I need my current setup to last till then.

Thanks. Pics to follow

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Check out this link for FD / drive train compatibility. http://www.ibiscycles.com/support/set-up_guide/

Mine came stock w/ triple cranks which I converted to 2x w/ bashguard. There's mild rub when I'm big-big but good enough for me.

Curious what you paid for your used HD. A friend is thinking about selling his.

Nice Lev! Congrats and welcome to the HD club. I honestly never thought I'd be on an Ibis, but the thing is just so damn good...

Anyway, no problems with drivetrain on my part. I got mine with the X9 3x10 setup, and swapped the big ring for a bash. Also installed an e.thirteen Heim guide. I do get some chain rubbing/rattling when I'm in the little ring in anything but the two largest cogs out back. But I literally only ever use that ring for grannying up the steepest shit possible. If I can ever motivate to actually work on my bike, I think I'll swap to 1x10 next year since the only thing I EVER use the small ring for here is puke hill on the wasatch crest. I do have a 33 tooth front/middle ring, so I spin out on super high speed stuff, but that 33/36 combo can climb almost anything around these parts.

I do know phatfreeheeler has had problems with his 2x10 setup though. Even with an MRP guide he can't keep the chain from falling off to the outside and chewing up his nice XX carbon crankarm... ouch.