Originally Posted by
telepariah
Excellent topic, Trackhead.
I am fully in agreement that all I ask from potential partners is honesty. I don't want somebody showing up for either a tour or a ski mountaineering excursion unprepared and having misled me as to their experience. Yet I am more than happy to take people out and show them the ropes. But there is a huge difference for me as a leader between showing somebody the basics in Butler Gulch and finding out on the east face of Squaretop that they have no idea how to use their safety equipment.
I had quite a day once years ago on the Grand with a guy who advertised himself as ready to climb and ski the Grand but when he got to the first steep snow he froze and wouldn't go up or down. Killed three hours trying to get him to trust me to lower him down from a bergschrund. And it certainly wasn't safe for him given his lack of experience to even be anywhere near the Grand. I became really careful about how I selected partners after that.
There are lots of ways to get experience with beacons. You just have to find partners and commit to doing it. You can practice in a park, you can practice at a ski resort, you can even practice in your house. Hacksaw's dad used to stop by his place and hide a beacon somewhere. A note and a beacon left on the kitchen table told Halsted his dad had been there and that a search was on. And when you buy a probe, assemble and disassemble it in your back yard about 50 times until it becomes an automatic movement.
Then be honest about your experience anyway and it won't be hard to find partners. It is people who think they have to pretend they are more experienced than they are who cause safety concerns.