Unmounting bindings to tune?

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Originally Posted by adrenalated

C'mon, you've never pulled the engine from your car to do an oil change?

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I stopped doing that and usually have my bros at Penske Racing handle that vs a guy off the street at Jiffy Lube.

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Originally Posted by EWG

Um, perhaps I didn't turn the sarcasm dial up enough? For clarity's sake, I do not remove my bikes' drivetrains prior to wheel truing. Nor do I remove bindings before ski tuning. Hell, half the time I don't even retract the brakes with a rubber band when waxing and edging, I just do it by hand.

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It went over my head as I was visualizing a guy I rode the lift with a couple weeks ago. The conditions were very dirty/gritty and wet slurpy & corn. He was on race stock skis, race jacket and went on a rant as if the world was ending because he couldn't get a chevron pattern on a base grind and a 0.5° base bevel anywhere in the area he liked and would take his skis 5 to 6 hours to a guy in Breckenridge he trusted.

I saw no evidence his glide was faster than my hand structured glide.

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Originally Posted by EWG

Um, perhaps I didn't turn the sarcasm dial up enough? For clarity's sake, I do not remove my bikes' drivetrains prior to wheel truing. Nor do I remove bindings before ski tuning. Hell, half the time I don't even retract the brakes with a rubber band when waxing and edging, I just do it by hand.

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Anyone not getting your obvious sarcasm should consider migrating to Epic or Alpinezone.

my buddy had a chevy monza that came stock with a small block V8

you HAD to lift the engine to get at the last spark plug cuz the steering box was in the way,

also it had a 4spd with an 8" dia. clutch I believe out of a Vega, cuz it was geared super high the clutch wore out once or twice a year, every so often change the clutch and maybe that plug



I gotta wonder how many problems that shop ran inot when pulling the bindings?

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

my buddy had a chevy monza that came stock with a small block V8

you HAD to lift the engine to get at the last spark plug cuz the steering box was in the way,

also it had a 4spd with an 8" dia. clutch I believe out of a Vega, cuz it was geared super high the clutch wore out once or twice a year, every so often change the clutch and maybe that plug



I gotta wonder how many problems that shop ran inot when pulling the bindings?

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First generation Toyota minivans required lifting the engine to access at least some of the spark plugs, but they bragged that the plugs were good for 60K miles. I guess a winch becomes part of yer tool kit.

Enough has been said about the silliness of binding removal, so nothing more to say about that.

... Thom

Very well regarded ski tuner in LCC does the same thing when tuning skis. Also claims that he can get a better tune. But I’m skiing in Utah, not a World Cup ski race. I just want a basic tune that fixes my fucked up bases. No tune in the world is worth remounting my bindings for no reason.


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Originally Posted by Alpinord

Out of curiosity, why wouldn't you tune your own skis? In less time than it'd take me to drop off a pair, I'd be done tuning.

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He probably didn't want to remove his own binders.

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Originally Posted by kathleenturneroverdrive

I mostly just think it's super funny that someone thinks skis with tech bindings require a tune so precise they warrant binding removal.

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^This. The whole tech binding portion of the story is cracking me up. Back in the day we did this a lot with Nordic skis lol!

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Jesus.

I mean, just what the fuck.

There are machines that you will get a more consistent pattern with the bindings removed. On tech bindings it is easier for the ramp to skip in the feed, this will cause a split second of unequal down pressure. I never removed anyones bindings other than my own but there was an old crusty tech that would pull bindings on race skis with a ton of metal to get the best results possible. He was also the only guy I would trust with my skis for what its worth. That all being said returning them unmounted is just being lazy.

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Originally Posted by gregL

I will occasionally pull my own bindings for a bunch of passes on the stone grinder, as I think you "may" get a smoother pull through (and it takes less attention), but for most jobs you just put the ramp attachment on over the bindings and let 'er rip . . .

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I've been told that WC-level grinding is usually doing without bindings installed, but that's a bit different than a basic tune, plus race bindings are generally mounted in a plate, not directly into the ski.

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Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum

I've been told that WC-level grinding is usually doing without bindings installed, but that's a bit different than a basic tune, plus race bindings are generally mounted in a plate, not directly into the ski.

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I've seen a vid where the race room techs didnt use any glue but yeah it was into a second deck that was i believe foam, might have been redster double decks

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Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum

I've been told that WC-level grinding is usually doing without bindings installed, but that's a bit different than a basic tune, plus race bindings are generally mounted in a plate, not directly into the ski.

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This. Race skis generally have a plate that can take screws being pulled and reinstalled waaayyyy better than a ski. Especially a lightweight touring ski.

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

I've seen a vid where the race room techs didnt use any glue but yeah it was into a second deck that was i believe foam, might have been redster double decks

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ive never used glue putting RACE BINDINGS on a RACE PLATE. Only glue when putting a plate back on a ski and most of the time I’ll epoxy that. Half the race plates are metal inside plastic, and basic wood glue doesn’t glue to that.

Only reason to glue any screws while mounting is to protect the core from water getting in there. Freeze/thaw of water in binding holes is not good, also water in general in the core is bad.

I would be more interested to know if this guy was plugging holes before grinding or taping over the holes.

depending on the age of the ski that got dropped off and if water got in the core, I would of gone into total prick mode and I would of left there with a new pair of skis.

entering water to a core is just like blowing out drill shavings with your mouth from mounting holes, two things you just don’t fucking do, same reason why tips are always to left.

How about hot boxing, bindings off or on? Is the heat hard on the grease inside the bindings?

given my choice of hot boxing phantom waxing or new ski prep work
id mount after
but removing binders to tune sounds like failure to keep it simple stupid step
maybe he was scared of the bridge
most of your new automated car/ski wash machines pneumatic suction from the top and roll bridgeless but sure throw a lot of water/emulsion around
i tape exposed holes if theyre not gittin plugged
the thought that your breath could put enough moistures into a cores to do anything is quite laughable

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Originally Posted by kathleenturneroverdrive

I mostly just think it's super funny that someone thinks skis with tech bindings require a tune so precise they warrant binding removal.

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Or need to be tuned at all.

Removing bindings used to be fairly common but I really only see it done to race skis now.

9/10 wow level on this whole thread.

Silicone glue would make me skeptical too. Some kinds are OK, some kinds could be bad. Why not just use wood glue?

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Originally Posted by Name Redacted

Silicone glue would make me skeptical too. Some kinds are OK, some kinds could be bad. Why not just use wood glue?

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This is ideal for when you just want to seal up the hole (and don't need to add any significant adhesion):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Sealants-A...dp/B089N98MBT/

Wood glue rusts bindings screws.
I used to think that made no sense, until a TGR poster wrote something like:
"Wonder how the water got in there that rusted your binding screws? You put it in there."
Ever since switching to that glue (or G/Flex epoxy when I wanted more stick um), I've never had rusted screws when uninstalling a binding.

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Originally Posted by Name Redacted

Silicone glue would make me skeptical too. Some kinds are OK, some kinds could be bad. Why not just use wood glue?

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Most wood glue is water based. I’d choose the silicone every time over wood glue.

Praxis Rx…..

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Originally Posted by Jonathan S.

Ever since switching to that glue (or G/Flex epoxy when I wanted more stick um), I've never had rusted screws when uninstalling a binding.

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Same. Haven't had a rusty screw in 10 years.

And yeah. G-flex if I'm close to another hole or something's threatening to spin. But for normal mounts, silicone ftw.

Shoe Goo is great, IAS gave me the idea. Waterproof, sticky as hell and pliable so vibration won’t crack it


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Some silicone glue is good. Some can cause corrosion on many different kinds of metal from the acetic acid that is created by the silicone as it cures. If a guy is pulling your bindings off to tune, I'd be skeptical of everything else in his shop too. "Silicone Glue" could be some caulk that he picked up at Lowe's for all you know.

I trust this guy

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Originally Posted by marshalolson

said it numerous times.

amazing goop or 3m marine epoxy (1 part, urethane based) is the best ski mounting glue. period. it works on all skis regardless of construction in a superior manner, regardless of binding. it bonds as strong or stronger than epoxy, but screws are easily removed.

wood glue is water based. it should be no suprise that water gets into the core/threads. you put it there. simple as that.

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