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I'll take a look! Thanks for the suggestions I appreciate the advice. I am kind of ignorant about mtb suspension components. I grew up riding crappy bikes in the woods, then I did a lot of road riding/racing in college and after, now I'm starting to get back in to riding my crappy bike in the woods.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
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Nothing wrong with a hardtail. Wish my joints could still withstand it. So quick with every pedal stroke. Youtube videos make light work of rock shox and dvo fork service. Service kits are cheap and readily available. Others might have insight on manitou or suntour products and their service for more options. I'd try and avoid 9mm qr. A 15mm thru axle boost spacing will be future proof and way safer/sturdierQuote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
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You’re cute [emoji8]Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
Please unseat yourself from your holy thrown and remember what it was like when you first started biking. The biggest hinderance was your stamina... not blowing out the side wall of your tire when you square a turn. Jesus.
Why are we pushing for lighter bikes yet continually adding weight in places that makes a noticeable impact on the pedalability of a bike.
Adding inserts to all bikes seems like a great way to overcomplicate the tire changing process all while reducing the enjoyment of the experience for the rider.
Again, this is in reference to 90% of the bikes out in the world that are designed to be pedaled (so not applicable to DH sleds and eMTB).
As to durability... if someone is blowing the bead off a DD; sure they likely need inserts and a few spansors.
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Don't. Save that money towards a new ride. Or at least frame fork wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
Hindsight is 20/20...
I was 16. Stamina wasnt the problem. The problem for the first 20 years was destroying stuff. First derailleurs(once upon a time i had a der with 3 pulleys, it was shit as well), then square taper axles,bb's and wheels, then suspension forks and pivots. From the start tires/tubes have always be a limiting factor. We accepted complete shit as standard equipment and road with 35psi. Sewed up sidewall tears with thread and crazy glue with business card backing until the tread was bald. Performance was completely sub standard and a major limiting factor. It still is relative to the super technology we have on the rest of our bikes. Boggles the mind that we have such amazing suspension tech thats ultra light, durable carbon frames, but no one cam design a carbon bead lock rim with flat dual density sidewall edges and sealed spoke holes in a reasonable weight. All tires should have inserts built into the construction with a range of weights and protection.Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiLyft
I didnt say inserts were exclusively for dh racers or for stopping the bead from rippjng off your rim. I said , farther up the thread, that world cup xc racers are now using them and newbs like yourself that wont be ripping beads off your rim or noticing the smoother ride will notice the dirt in their wounds when the sidewall flexes in a corner because it has no support. Maybe not all the time but it will happen. You could be riding a new trail and its all good , youre flowing along, round a blind corner and into a rock garden. Everyone does that. Most riders want to pick a tire with the tread they think works and then wear it out. Very few want to be swapping tires all the time. Inserts allow you to pick the tire build that fits your usage and wear it out with less worry of destroying things. It may allow you to go ever so slightly lighter of a tire condtruction and give you more protection than a slightly heavier tire without an insert, like say an xc racer would.
Im not pushing for lighter bikes. Im pushing for the right weight/durability ratio for my trails and usage. Same as an xc racer, enduro racer or dh racer would.
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I laffed [emoji16]Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
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I know I know... I'm listening... Some how this is a lesson I've had to learn more than once. Bikes, skis... Cars... It's sick.Quote:
Originally Posted by jhyatt
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I had no idea the new Bronson comes stock as a mullet. Interesting and bold I think.
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I'm tempted to try a reverse mullet on my uphill bike.
One of the winners of the Jackson Hole hill climb at the village ran a fork with all of the air let out of it for exactly this reason.
While they're not exactly being pioneers, it is about the only thing SC has done in the last few years that's really leading edge. Most of their designs recently have felt like they were kind of hedging their bets and playing it safe - modern, but not ultra progressive. In this case, they're joining Specialized (Status) and Transition (Patrol), in releasing a bike that's designed ONLY to be run as a mullet.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
I saw you tried running your Transition Sentinel as a mullet, what were your thoughts? Advantages/disadvantages vs stock? I have one, and am intrigued.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
I had a V1 Sentinel. Mulletting it made it far too low (like 330mm) and slack (about 63 degrees) - it just felt weird. That said, I remember reading on Cascade Component's site (after I passed that frame along) that you could use their link with a certain imperial sized shock to make it longer travel and preserve the geometry. If you're serious about it, that'd be the way to go. That note is gone from the product page, but you could email them about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdadour
Mullet trend is a great sales tool as well, move bikes to people that don't want to buy a 27.5 out of fear it might become "obsolete" or worth little in the used market, but are afraid of 29ers. I happen to be one of these people (haven't gotten along with 29er rear wheels in steeps/jumping), I just ordered a Patrol, will see how it goes.
Im on the fence between one or 2 offset bushings in my mulletized meta am 29. Its fun on the xc trails in full 29 but its way more fun on the downs as a mullet and a touch slacker. I may end up with just one offset bushing reversed to raise the bb atouch when i have the 27.5 wheel in it. I have a reversed offset bushing in both eyelets nowade full 9er and 180 fork too and it feels too high, so thinking ill just want the 1 reversed offset bushing in both full 9er and mullet. Itll be close to stock as a 9er and 1 degree slacker as a mullet and should have a high enough bb for both wheelsize applications. Full 9er has some good traits but a lot more traits i dont like. Sluggish in the corners, but rub on steeps and drops and not as ez to move around it. I feel way more mobile when the 27.5 is on there
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I knew about the Status as a local kid racer has one, but I didn't know about the Patrol. So far he digs the Status for racing. These bikes are being marketed for park and down, but works on the up too. Interesting. The Bronson fits that role I guess. I need to try a mullet one of these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Interesting, thanks for sharing. Seems like it would be important to preserve the geometry after swapping to 27.5 in the rear. Also sounds like its a good application for certain people on certain types of trails.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
The Bikes and Big Ideas Podcast talked about it a little bit, and one of their opinions was its really only worth it if you are shorter than average, shorter leg length, and that it is mainly most beneficial for downhill bikes on steep terrain. And it cannot be as useful for trail/enduro bikes.
https://blisterreview.com/podcasts/r...-mullets-ep-70
I'd agree with that for the most part, except that I'd push the height/leg length up slightly higher than average. It seems like most riders up to 6' or so who've tried it appreciate the greater clearance in the rear. For wookies like Greg Minaar, or people riding XL frames (or on the high end of L sizing), I'm sure rear clearance isn't an issue. I'd disagree with it mostly being useful for DH bikes, simply because plenty of people are riding enduro bikes on steep & tight terrain that will benefit from it.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdadour
If I lived in the central mountain region (CO UT AZ etc.) and rode mostly long, rolling blue trails, I'd take a full 29 trail bike even at 5'8" with 30" inseam. But if I rode some of the tighter, chunky, ledgy stuff, I'd want my mullet.
Lots of great bikes that are built mullet out of the gate.
I'm riding a 2021 stumpy evo with the mullet link, absolutely love it. I can turn nice while still have bike in slackest mode, no going back.
Recently mullet'd my kiddo's Transition from 24 to 26 front wheel. My take was that it more adjusted the geometry to a dated frame, so hey that worked. She doesnt look to be going over the bars any longer.
Great thing for kids bikes. I think its norco that has the kids bike that can be 24 or 26 later as they grow into it. Ez to go one wheel at a time in a graduated manner and thdn even a 27.5 front with a 26 rear if the frame isnt too small by then. Hard to rationalize spending big $ on a bike theyll outgrow shortly otherwise. Headset and axle standards used to throw a wrench in those plans but most are tapered and boost these days
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https://nsmb.com/articles/mixed-whee...han-clearance/
some interesting mullet talk
Funny timing but one of my buddies sent this pic of my formerly mullet’d Bullit still around in town [emoji1]Quote:
Originally Posted by babybear
I guess they reverted back to 26 x 26. But was fun to see it still around since I think I sold it in 2006 or so. Definitely mine as well bc the rear triangle was a warranty and silver was available whereas red was not. Same seat and a bunch of other stuff
Warms my heart #pastloves
Attachment 382907
Geometry looks so funny to me now though 🤣
But does it warm the cockles of your heart? :FIREdevil