What is an O chain?
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What is an O chain?
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My crude understanding is that it allows the chain/chainring to swing back a few degrees before hooking up. Thus negating pedal kickback. Ironically considerably worse in these high POE hub days.
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Do you have any requirements or preference for spindle size or chainring compatibility? If not, I guess I'd recommend the RaceFace Aeffect crankset, because it's relatively cheap ($120 MSRP), has a 24mm spindle and is therefore compatible with cheap and easy to find Shimano BBs, ditto with Cinch chainrings.Quote:
Originally Posted by MCS5280
First you need to find a crank that accepts third party Chain Ring company makes a Shimano 12S compatible, like North Shore Billet, WolfTooth, ect... Because if you buy a current 12s Shimano, you cant find a chainring that is backwards compatible to 11s chain ring.Quote:
Originally Posted by MCS5280
Buy the 11 speed version crank, and then later the upgrade to 12 speed chainring.
I'd buy a XT 11 speed 8000 model, so I could later update it with a North Shore Billet 12 Speed XT 8000 chainring.
Also any of the SRAM direct mount cranks would work too. An old GXP crank can be found cheap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzafPY3VkpoQuote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Not being a specific DH person, and the amount of stalls and ratcheting I do, that engagement delay would drive me nuts.
Pedal Kickback is a myth...
..or so they say
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/why-yo...-kickback.html
Chains are a myth
^ That's how I used to guage when my Octalink splines were worn out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I was riding the shuttle with one of the SRAM techs and told him a pet peeve of mine is that no chain company provides any information explaining how their expensive chain out perform their cheaper chains.Quote:
Originally Posted by simple
I got a long convoluted lecture about pin, bushing, roller, plate manufacturing and tolerances. At the end, I told him nothing he said sounded remotely like “shifts better” or “lasts longer”. I’ve learned more in here about cheese.
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More expensive chains do usually last longer, are usually lighter, and are usually more efficient (high end SRAM 12-sp Eagle being an exception - very long lasting but high friction).Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Attachment 410552
https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/chaintesting/
I just buy chains based on color. Road bike gets gold ones, mtb gets rainbow.
I have 2 season old PNW Bachelor dropper that needs a new upper seal and a general service. I call up my LBS and they say that I'm better off just getting a new seatpost because parts don't exist for my 2 year old seatpost.
So are dropper seatposts just disposable now or is my shop just lazy?
I think you'd be better off to contact PNW directly and see if they can help you out. Even if you had to pay a bit, you'll likely have better luck. Not sure if they'll sell you the parts direct or if they'd have you do this:Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collec...ervice-program
When the post costs less than service? Yea.Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
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Good man. I had no idea PNW did this for $50. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by scrublover
Ok, so my new bike (GG Gnarvana) is sick. One fairly mellow 10 mile loop, but I am stoked so far. Only gripe is the Zeb Select fork. Figured this would be an immediate upgrade anyway.
Spend the time swapping out the damper to an upgraded Charger 2.1 or just bag it and get the Factory 38 and call it done?
My Zeb Ultimate is just outstanding right out of the box. But you might be 10 years (less? More?) aggressive than me!
Maybe try a Luftkappe or Secus?
The only actual difference between the Select and Ultimate is the damper correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
The Select just feels like there is little damping control. Feels pretty bouncy right out of the box with correct sag/air pressure and rebound at the recommended start point of 14 clicks open from closed/slow.
I’ve heard that damper upgrade makes a big difference. And seems like with a secus upgrade it might not really have a weakness?
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I've replaced dampers before in Pikes and Fox forks. It's not particularly hard, but I feel dumb taking apart a fork that has 2 hours or riding on it for a $300+ dollar upgrade.
Probably should just buy a new fork and sell this one.
I tend to agree, if you can find what you want first, of course.
The first thing I do with a new fork is take it apart…Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
They assemble the fork at the factory assuming it will never ever be serviced, and put enough suspension butter on the air shaft to service 10+ forks.
I pull the air spring, clean the seals and lightly re-grease it, and put in the correct, or even same new suspension oil.
Factory butter:
Attachment 411025
Amount of excess butter:
Attachment 411026
How it should be buttered:
Attachment 411027
*not my photos, taken from Instagram
My theory is you have already decided you want a 38…. I’d sell it currently and order up the FoxQuote:
Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
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