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^So strange.
Unfortunately not. Central Pyay!Quote:
Originally Posted by neufox47
Well got the ms-261 with 20” bar. I think I’m going to get a 16” bar and chain to go with it. Anyone know how small / narrow of a chain I can go? Looks like Stihl says .325 and .050
up here the sthil dealer sells them with .325 and recommend the 20" bar, a different bar and chain will be close to 100$ which seems like a waste of $$$ if you don't have to IMO
but i would buy a second 20" chain cuz you will use it one of these days so its good to have the spare in case it breaks or whatever-the-fuck also I don't file chains out on the cut block I just swap the chain for one I have sharpend on the jig at home and i'm back in bidness real quick with a super sharp chain.
I also bought a second air filter so I can just swap for a clean one that is already washed & dried
edit: or just get a 16" bar and chain instead of the 20" to begin with but IME the 261 has enough power to pull a 20" chain
congrats on the new saw! did you get the ms261 with the auto adjusting carb (m-tronic)? they are pretty great and interesting to run. if you're going to change chains sizes, make sure your bar and sprocket are compatible with the new chain.
the concept about modifying the muffler led me down a rabbit hole a few days ago while on the crapper, and i may do it on my ms241c-m. when i modded the muffler on my ms361, there were some very clear and concise calculated descriptions in the arboristsite.com forum about the effective maximum changes (hole size) and best places to put the hole. there was even a description about installation of a new spark arrester. this info gave me some confidence that i wasn't gonna have a problem or fuck things up or waste my time/money.
No I went with the standard 261. It’s something I plan on having for a long time and I don’t plan on using it at elevation, etc. Additionally my dad is my free small engine repair guy but he isn’t going to touch it with M-tronic. Kinda wish I did get the CM model though.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
My thought on the second bar and chain was that I have a lot of srcub oaks that are 4-6” diameter, on steep ground, and a nice narrow little bar and chain would be sweet and lighten it up. But maybe it is too much of a pain in the ass to switch the bar and chain. I do feel like if I got the 16” in addition to the 20, the 16 would get the most use. But I have a bunch of stuff that the 16 would require a double cut but the 20 will get through.
Guy at the dealer told me to wait until the warranty is up then modify the exhaust.
i understand the wanting for the shorter bar. a friend has a top handle little saw for an unknown reason (he's not an climber) with a 12" bar, and it's super useful in brushy stuff. the 16" bar on my saw also makes it really easy to buck 16" rounds for my stove. all said, i'm sure you'll get by fine with the 20" bar. happy cutting!
I'd just get a second saw with a smaller bar. Maybe go with an electric saw for delicate work.
sounds like you need a caddy to carry all that shit and pick the right saw/chain/barQuote:
Originally Posted by neufox47
" yes Manuel I'm thinking the 261 will be fine for this next stand ? "
" no senior go with the 241 ! "
Hah, changes probably wouldn’t be too frequent. But hey, a quiver is always better right?Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I've got an 18" on my 261. Seemed like a good compromise.
I'm a noob with saws. This was wedged on the right side. I cut beyond the tree wedge first and maybe should have cut before it. Then I cut the left side. I cut under then a wedge cut on top so I hopefully wouldn't get the bar stuck. It kind of worked. Maybe there is a better way?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e13223bbce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5a9c5cc6f2.jpg
a bar pinch happens when you are cutting on the compression side of a limb/tree
so you cut on the tension side
but when it lets go other shit can happen
so you need to learn to manage tension and/or compression
Lots of info on youtube, you might wana learn some stuff cuz this shit can kill ya
C'mon, fellas, get some real bar length.....
That's a 660 sporting a 42" bar, a 13 hp woods ported 3120 paired with a 60", and a venerable 2100 mated to a 72"er.... tree was a 10.5' giant sequoia, 158 ft tall, 98 yrs old. It housed maybe 3% as much wood as the General Sherman.....
That butt log averaged maybe 2' in length. The 90 ton crane's load cell said it weighed about 6500 lb..... In the spring redwood can weigh close to 70 lb per cubic foot, meaning is heavier than most US woods, save live oak!!
https://flic.kr/p/M6mZKxAttachment 287134
Less than a century to reach that volume, my heart cries! The extra cuts below the stump on both sides, would love to hear your strategy on the felling with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
Great wood!
I've run a 660 with a 32" bar and it was a beast. I can't imagine bars that long.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
Granted, the biggest trees here are 60's dbh.
Another oldie from 2002, the (in) famous Squeeze Play is featuredhttps://youtu.be/L2wMdGPEPfc
Yup. I run 28-32" on my ported Husky 372's and Dolmar 7900's, 36 on the 660, 24 on my awesome woods ported 357, 18" on the ported Husky 550, and normally 14" on my climb saws, both Husky and Stihl.Quote:
Originally Posted by Powder Ho
Here's a link to the whole album. You'll see that the cuts were to get the crane slings to stay on... https://flic.kr/s/aHsjqT7iU4Quote:
Originally Posted by BCMtnHound
Nice work. Every time I think I'm an accomplished sawyer, I see pictures like that and I realize if I f up we're going to have replace a picnic table or fire ring.Quote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
I tried but they seem to be all about who has the shortest bar and the smallest chain ... I don't get itQuote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
Right, but I had compression on both sides of where I was cutting. I only cut blow downs building trails, so I need to wedge something under to release it, but it's not always apparent on exactly how to do that...for me anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Am I really going to die? I bought the red one!!
cutting blow down & snags that are hung up is even more tricky than falling cuz now you got a tree half assed down and you can't just leave it like that especaily on a ski run or bike trail, so things could go a lot of ways
Wedges are a big help so I always have a hatchet on my belt & 2 wedges in my cruiser vest
cuz if you don't carry the stuff on you, instead of doing the right thing you will try and fudgeit
and yes you are going to die ... but hopefully later than sooner
Very cool. Can’t imagine swinging a 72” bar. Good to see you back on here. Very curious what a job like that costs roughly?Quote:
Originally Posted by rbtree
If you are doing a lot of blow down- look up the fence posting technique for hung up trees- life saver (life prolonger?)
any examples to link? thxQuote:
Originally Posted by LHutz Esq
I found these.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o15CYYdy_oE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUQ1p2QPdxU
I'm not messing around with anything too big. I'll just go around.
https://www.google.com/search?client...ller+standards
lots of good clear concise info in these vids
Yes! The Humboldt undercut, my personal standard. :yourock: However, it would have been a lot cooler if they’d spelled “Humboldt” correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1hHzJYUUSc
the technique I was thinking of was basically this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dBULPgWfUc
Although I was taught to take the bind first - then do the undercut in a way that will allow the tree to come down in a controlled manner
Ok so I see where the " fence posts " are being created in that vid
Thats ^^ what I do when my trees get hung up
Anyone whom is not sure wtf they are doing there is a whole lot of vids online about falling trees
in my brief experience, i find a lot more tension / compression (high energy) in blowdown than trees that get hung-up. I slowly work to ease the tension/compression. I'm getting better at not pinching my bar. I get tricked about where the compression is on occasion.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using TGR Forums mobile app
I just learned what barberchair is...
https://youtu.be/EKzvkRnCF58
Oh shit
Alder and maple you gotta watch your ass. Honestly, I would leave both to a pro. You need long bars (get as far away from the tree as possible), big and fast saws, and a fucking sharp full skip chain for equipment, and a whole lot of skill with a bit of a willingness to die.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
I am happy to see they had shit house luck on their side!Quote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw