Thanks for the Alan key idea. That's great :)
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Thanks for the Alan key idea. That's great :)
I use a 4mm drill bit.
3 dimes stacked = 4mm and they will rest on the toe pins.
After the first 3 days on my moment voyagers (freeraiders) I would never want a different binding for the backcountry.
Any chance someone has a pair of ATK Heel adjustment plates they'd be willing to part with? I bought a pair of Helio 200 LT's (no adjustment plate) and I'm slightly worried that we may swap my wife's boots next season to a pair with a 2mm different BSL. Thinking about getting ahead of the curve and just installing with the adjustment plate... and it would make mounting easier.
Skimoco has them in stock but I'm balking a little at $65 so I thought I'd ask.
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I want to adjust it for different boots but I don't have the 4mm gauge that is mentioned in the manual. Any suggestions for alternatives to use?
I don't have an allen key set right now so I use two nickels (3.90mm) and it seems to work fine, I try to never release anyways.
Quote:
Skimoco has them in stock but I'm balking a little at $65 so I thought I'd ask.
Adjustment plate pricing across all brands is infuriating. Isn't it just a piece of aluminum? Can we create a TGR version that is like $30? I'm empowered by the Scarpa buckle mod that frorider has made. We could probably order the screws needed online as well.
At least they're not $100 like the Dynafit plates
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1481...7585504183439/Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
(And agreed in general on the pricing.)
Awesome!
Thanks I messaged him.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan S.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2958549085.jpg
Took these out today for the maiden trip and what a treat to use. At home I thought the brake and magnetic risers would be a bit janky but in the field everything works beautifully. Well done ATK. Have them mounted on pair of wailer 112’s. The toe piece has an awesome snappy feel when clicking in and no springs magic voodoo. Smooth rotation of the heel tower too, none of the fuckin G3 or dynafit shenanigans.
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Has anybody's got experience with replacing a R12 (new pattern) with a Crest? I superimposed the patterns, red holes would be new...don't know it it would work - too close maybe?
Attachment 399320
No experience, but I would feel good with that
I’d be quite confident of those as well. If you’re really concerned, do hardwood dowels in the unused holes. I don’t think it’s necessary though if the ski doesn’t have any other mounts.
Thanks!! I will try...
What ski is this going on? If it’s got a metal mount plate like many do, there’s definitely no issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomh79
Salomon MTN Explorer 95 - I think it has a metal plate? Not the lightest of touring skis...
I've done Helio 350 heels (pretty sure the same as R12) on the same skis as crest heels with inserts with no issues.
Same. You can move the Crest mount forward a few mm to get even more separation. The rail has plenty of adjustably.Quote:
Originally Posted by cat in january
It does appear it’s got a titanal plate under the mount zone. You can go anywhere you like then, it’ll be super bomber.Quote:
Originally Posted by tomh79
Just throwing in an observation, I had ATK Trofeo 8s last year and the heels were very, very hard to turn. This model, black and green:
Attachment 399460
Then I bought Trofeos from TP last spring, silver and green, and the heels are much easier to turn. Not noticeably difficult. IDK if it's a thing but yeah they're definitely easier.
Anybody know where I can buy the leash and blanking plate parts to go brakeless on a pair of Raiders?
I've got them both in stock as well as the excellent AL09 Freeride Spacers if you haven't already got those. PM me your zip code/country and I'll send you a quote. The UK market this season is currently being battered by France's refusal to allow Brits entry and tight restrictions on travel to other destinations so I've also got Freeraider 14's, C-Raider 12's and Crest 10's that I need to shift.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
good point! didn't even think about it:)Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
i gotta douche the boxQuote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
but i need a 120 fr14 brake set and id rather support you than skimo
but if its more than 80 bucks to git em to the 801 utardia hood
ill just go see them
PM inbound.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
I'll have a pair to cut loose once I get leash parts from Jon, if you're not in a huge rush. Only skied 4 or 5 days, pretty much as new.Quote:
Originally Posted by skifishbum
^^^^i got leashes id trade
and if somebody needs a 108 brake
lemme know
I'll PM yaQuote:
Originally Posted by skifishbum
Edit: you're full up, shoot me a note once you've cleared space
If you don't do a deal with HAB the brakes would be GBP49 shipped (7-10 wkg days) which on todays Paypal rate would be sub US$70.Quote:
Originally Posted by skifishbum
is there a free ride spacer for helio 180 no brake
and do i need it ?
YES, same question? Also, is there a way to add the freeride spacer without punching another hole in the skis?Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbcat
I wonder how we all survived for the last 20 years without freeride spacers.
I suppose we mostly survived but a fair number of dynafit heels did not. Personally I'm all for stronger turn finishes from the tail of my tour skis, especially the fat ones. If a simple little gizmo like a freeride spacer does that for me, count me in.
I'm looking for binding freedom screws for my Moment Voyagers, does anyone know what I need? I would measure them but it's on my dd touring ski at the moment and I don't really want to pull them without having insert supplies ready to go. Paging Spyderjon maybe?
The free ride spacer concept is definitely worth it for me. Better feedback, better skiing. I put a 2mm layer of ptex under my helio 180’s heels, ground material off the spacer and screwed it on there. I’d say it’s tough to avoid adding a hole in the ski.
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riff, I'd really like to see your setup. Will be down at Mission sometime in the next week. As it happens I was specifically thinking about spacers for my helio 180's
My QK screw spec for the Freeraider 14's is 10mm countersunk flat heads for the toe and 10mm pan heads for the heel. The pan heads need their head diameters reducing to 8.4mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by thejongiest
However, the Moment version of that binding has a 4mm thicker toe base so you're going to need 14mm csk flat heads for the toes. Like this:
Attachment 399795
In the UK & Yurp, being the lands of metric, we use the 5mm machine screws with no.2 pozi heads, not the bastardised no.3 pozi heads that BF use. The BF screws heads are therefore taller so overall length of their csk flatheads might be a tad longer.
Hope this helps.
Super helpful thanks it's just what I was looking for!Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
That reduced head dia for the heel screws should be 8.4mm
I’ll get some pics up in a couple days
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Day 1 on FR 14's, mounted on Backland 107's, toes shimmed 4mm. This will be a touring set-up but I wanted to make some resort laps first.
Spent the am skiing powder and nice chopped pow on Volkl Katana 108 with STH2. Expected a significant performance drop-off with the lighter ski but was pleasantly surprised at how well it handled various conditions. Very confidence inspiring, and now I want another set for my QST 118's mounted currently with Shifts. Anybody replaced Shifts with Freeraiders? I'm wondering specifically about hole conflicts.