Quote:
Originally Posted by lifelinksplit
There might be some cool air intake as well, like big truck breathers.
https://images.truckpartsinventory.c...VkCgCYUs_b.jpg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifelinksplit
There might be some cool air intake as well, like big truck breathers.
https://images.truckpartsinventory.c...VkCgCYUs_b.jpg
That was pretty cool. But there is a difference in what you can get away with, vs what your vehicle is for engineered to do. I'm not commenting on the landcruiser, since I didn't not know it. I drive a 99 4 runner. Still, are all the electronics waterproof? How high are the differential breathers. You do not want to be driving around with water in your axles. How about your master cylinder vent? Water in your brakes is even worse than water in the gas. All these systems have vents, and if the vents are not shut or vented to atmospheric pressure while the vehicle is submerged, water can get in.Quote:
Originally Posted by basinbeater
All I'm getting to be is, just bolting on a snorkel doesn't mean you can do hardcore shit with your stock truck. There are other systems on the vehicle which need improving also if you don't want problems right then, or later on
True. Extending the axle and tcase breather hoses is simple in the 80 series, and a common $10 mod. I wouldn't drive mine through something like that, that's for Damn sure. Snorkel or not (in my case not).
Funny shit here. Diesel 80 series.
https://youtu.be/LC5ld79joIA
Was going for the "australia is a desert wasteland like in mad max" joke.Quote:
Originally Posted by frorider
Is there such thing as a sealed alternator or does dunking one underwater not matter much?
Ronny Dahl discusses mods and water crossings a lot on his you tube channel. I'm not sure if he's gotten into details about best priority mod for water crossings or experiences with vehicle issues from extended or deep crossings, but it seems like something he'd vid blog about....
Alternator won't have an issue. Fresh water has crap conductivity, but salt water is a bit worse. All the windings in the thing are insulated.
Test drove a 2017 RAM 1500 Rebel yesterday. Plush as fuck, the HEMI is fun, but damn that thing is big. Also test drove a 2017 GMC Canyon SLT w/ the Diesel engine, that was a fun ride. Not as plush as the RAM, but I love hearing a Diesel grumble under the hood. Also considering a new Taco or Tundra TRD Off Road, or potentially a GMC Sierra 1500. Ugh, decisions.
Do the research If you want to make an informed decision. Pay for a Consumer Reports on-line subscription and look at the reliability history for each model. Google "AFM engine problems" to learn about GM's Active Fuel Management engine issues. Ignore J. D. Power initial satisfaction, which is meaningless in the long term. Lots of information is out there but you gotta work a bit to find it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BurnHard
My friend just bought a colorado diesel. Its way too in the middle for me... A slightly underpowered little truck thats going to be more expensive to own than any gas counterpart, and isn't big enough to be a real work truck.
I would buy a tacoma over every competitor unless I was looking at 3/4ton and up.
The AFM can be removed easily by a reputable tuner like "Black bear performace" I had my motor, tranny tuned and AFM removed. The Silverado runs amazing now.Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYSteve
^ Isn't GM's Active Fuel Management hard parts as well? Maybe it can be deactivated electronically and that fixes the issues (I don't know), but the system remains in place.
Disabling AFM is the way to go, although your engine warranty is void immediately upon doing it. I didn't see much sense in buying a new truck and then abandoning the warranty (which IMO is the biggest reason to buy new.) When the AFM is disabled per tune the cylinders don't shut down thus essentially the hard parts of the "AFM system" (e.g., lifters) are prevented from going into cylinder deactivation mode. But, yeah, you'll still have more moving parts than a non-AFM engine even though they shouldn't be moving after disabling AFM.
It can be deactivated electronically. Guys have been doing it since it came out in 2007. There is a programmer that you can get for like $200 that removes it. I opted for a full tune to remove 100% of the torque management of the engine and about 75% of the tranny. I then had the shift points changed so it holds each gear longer. Black Bear performance is well know and highly reguarded. It was a game changer for my 2010. The 6 speed auto was a dog and wanted to always shift too early. This is the best bang for the buck mod you can do on a 07-13 chevy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYSteve
When you get a tune from Black Bear performance you save the factory tunes so if you have to go in for warranty you just put them back on truck. Takes 10 mins.
I have friends that use Range Technology to disable their AFM, and it does not void the warranty (there is no tracking of the disabler by the computer). So far, fingers crossed, I have had no issues other than an extra litre of oil being consumed in the first 5000km. 25000km so far and 2 out of the 4 free GM/Chevy free services. With my 2 ladies, the hound, and the cab and bed loaded with tools/supplies/recreational/food for the cabin and VanIsl trips, the 1500 crewcab with 76" bed has been great. The tacomas I have driven with the 4 doors would still be awful cramped for our use (granted that use is only 2 or 3 trips per year).
Speaking of diesel tuners, I'm hoping to see more of this around here: http://www.sltrib.com/home/4165626-1...iesel-brothersQuote:
Originally Posted by MTslackcountry
check out this Gem http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-Toyota-...m=292001344099
Bahahaaha $17K for a 20 year old Toyota. WTF
It will prob sell for $20
Yep. These things in good shape are going for a lot. I have 215k on mine and bet it would go for $15k as it sits.Quote:
Originally Posted by MTslackcountry
Land cruisers are going nuts right now. Icon (TLC I guess) is doing full restorations on 80 series.
It seems like both 60's and 80's have about doubled in price since last year.
Broncos, too. Not the Bronco II.
Looking at buying a 2001 F350 7.3L power stroke Super Crew cab (insert Tim Taylor grunt here). Comes with a Lance slide in camper and topper. Low Miles 110K, upgraded everything including transmission, heavy duty haul package, all maintained by the most anal retentive person on the planet and in great condition.
We are having a hard time settling on a price for the entire package, any suggestions?
I have no $$ but that is a valuable truck/camper combo.