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Yup the first years boots didn't have locktite on them, I had some fall out (heard some pros did as well). This seasons boots got sent out with locktite + a bunch of extra screws with locktite predone on them. It's good locktite, I went to change the angle of them to the 13 and really had to be careful not to strip the screw head.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBC
The bootboard itself is only about 4mm thick under the center of the arch, but there's no rule saying it has to remain in 1 piece. You can cut 3 inches out between the heel and forefoot, taper the forefoot part so it transitions smoothly, and hot glue the two pieces back in. That will get you 4mm, which is a ton of extra volume.Quote:
Originally Posted by wasatchback
Even grinding the boot board 2mm is a pretty large change in volume since you're effectively changing the radius of the deformed cylinder, since the radius is squared in relation to that volume.
Any thoughts after changing the forward lean? Did it make much of a difference?Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalNomad
The cuff rivets on my boots have a fair bit of slop in them now after about a months use (look like they are about to snap). Would be so much better if they used screwed fittings, going to have to make my own cuff pivots now (lucky I have a lathe..)Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskydoc
Screws in the walk mode have also come loose but picked that up before they fell out...
Any way you can post a video of this? The way these boots are designed it's actually really hard for the cuff pivots to develop slop. Traditionally with most boots the rivet is what holds the cuff and lower together but also is what the cuff pivots around when in walk mode. This is why a lot of walk mode boots develop play over time is the softer plastic is rotating around a metal rivet which tends to ovalize the plastic and you get slop. The last two generations of ZeroG as well as the present generation of Cochise have a slightly different design to try to eliminate this. In the mold the lower has a bit of a bushing on it so that the cuff rotates around the bushing (that's plastic) instead of rotating around the rivet. The rivet holds the cuff and the lower together but the cuff doesn't rotate around the metal rivet and you don't get ovalizing and then play.Quote:
Originally Posted by hcrossing
I'm wondering if your cuff rivets just weren't pressed quite hard enough in production or something. Honestly I've never seen this happen and know quite a few people that ski these boots every day of the season and have for close to 2 years now.
Everyone wants adjustability but then complains when screws loosen... If you unscrew the walk mode screws to flip the female piece and add that 1* more forward lean you need to make sure you add more loctite to the screws or they will for sure slowly unscrew themselves. That's why this year in the box there are extra sets of screws that already have loctite on them. It's some pretty bomber loctite as well. I would strongly suggest not using a drill to try to unscrew the screws, you're almost guaranteed to strip them. I speak from experience.
Anyone tried the tour wrap style liner from the green Lupo TI?
Made almost no difference on mine. Shame as I’d like a tiny bit more forward lean. Put in a spoiler taped in place on the liner.Quote:
Originally Posted by dfinn
I have a pair of Intuition Pro Tours in my Cochise boots and pondering using the same liner/footbed from those for my Guide Pros as well. The thought being I already have to swap the footbed between the boots, the Intuitions are better than the stock liner and the shell is very similar (as far as I can tell). Any negative to doing this (besides that fact that I WILL DIE) or should I use the stock liners or pony up for a second pair of Intuitions?
Probably depends on how similar the shells are in terms of shape, size, volume, etc. Not ideal, but if they’re very similar then they might not be terrible. I’d personally get another pair of intuitions and just swap out the footbeds.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rudy
I tried throwing a pair of Pro Tours I had molded to a pair of cochise in my ZG's. It wasn't horrible but it wasn't good and for me would have needed a rebake. I ended up with with tour wraps in them.
Two pairs of this year's Zero G had the walk mode fall off. They had not been adjusted beforehand.
I also have a friend that weighs 130lbs and her ankle rivet has a large amount of slop now.
now were these people who use the 0Gs at the resort? or just touring?Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBC
I've been contemplating getting a pair of these magic slippers after reading all the hype, but they are hard to find. I read somewhere in this string that people who had the green TLT6 (my current boot) went a full size down in the ZGTP, I'm a 28.5 in the green TLT6 and I can try on a 27.5 and 28.5 Tour Scout locally, but I'll have to order the ZGTP online. I'm wondering what to do if it turns out I am a 28 in the ZGTP. Technical lists whole sizes for the ZGTP and I found one pair of 28s online, but everywhere else I've found them, they're only offered in half sizes. Anybody know the scoop on ZGTP whole sizes? Are they just slightly larger or smaller sizes liners in a half sized shell?
Shell size breaks on the whole number. 28.0 & 28.5 are the same shell size.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wapow
... Thom
Same liner too....
There are exactly zero ski boots offered in half size breakdowns. All 27.0 and 27.5s are the same boot (minus scarpa). Scarpa a 27.5 and a 28.0 are the same boot.
I checked mine today. Not tight, but not about to fall out. Tightened things down.Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalNomad
Locktite is my next move for the tour mechanism screws? Will vibratite work?
Thanks for clearing that up. I can at least lock down sizing now.Quote:
Originally Posted by XavierD
Yes, vibrat is better. They probably come with this onQuote:
Originally Posted by SupreChicken
Sent from my Armor_3 using Tapatalk
Sorry if this has been asked, but if I can ski a Cochise with a good fit without modifications, is it possible to expect the same from the zero g?
No guarantee, but that was my experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by NWFlow
Medial malleolous (inside ankle prominence) pain both sides, basically bone bruises from pushing on shell at the pivot. Ideas to fix?
See onedrive links below:Quote:
Originally Posted by couchsending
https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArPZh24xdyYpgol_eqeQyNMhiU5tZg
https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArPZh24xdyYpgooAiaiZo-ApqN7lGg
As you can see fair bit of slop in them - I think it is more the rivets loosening that the plastic wearing away (still need to take apart and have a look)
The boot actually has a pretty poor design for the position of the cuff rotation axis. The two cuff pivots are not parallel in their rotation (especially the inside one) and don't align with the flexing motion/direction of the boot. This induces axial forces in the rivets (if they were parallel it would have shear force only) which loosens the rivet. I imagine they have them where they are for a reason (more natural motion or something) but not the best for durability. Frustrating when you spend nearly $1k on boots and they don't last and no real option to fix them easily (why not face fastener style rivets like Scarpa??)
One did one lap inbounds with brand new boots. Didn't adjust the forward lean or anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by DougW
The other, I don't know.
No. By good fit, I assume you mean the Cochise is not too large. The ZeroG is considerably tighter than the Cochise in every way.Quote:
Originally Posted by NWFlow