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I walked past the thing tonight and figured, I’ll just give it a try. First pull with choke and it turned over, second pull without it and it fired right up, idled fine, everything. Still has the same plug and everything in it. Fucker. I think it’s time to get a second saw.
My first saw acted like that. Ignition coil was/is that saw's problem. Google searching led me to realize it was a known problem with that particular saw.
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sounds ^^ like something to do with spark but I would google the problem/start a thread on one of the arborist sites instead of asking a bucnha fucking dentists
if you are thinking about a new saw i duno how much saw you need but all the guys I have been cutting with tend to show up with a 50 or 60 cc pro quality saws cuz they will rev higher and run all day long, they are all orange eh but the performance difference of a forestry grade to a homeowner saw is obvious when you get them side by side, I lent mine to buddy so he could cut his cheap old saw out of a bar pinch and he commented right away that he could feel the difference and would be looking for a better saw
Pro saws arent cheap but ... you buy them once
An old logger once told me - if you buy quality, you only cry the one time at the store. Buy shit and you will be crying all the time...and be back at the store.
Just try a new ignition coil. Or at least price it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LHutz Esq
Meh, I made a bunch of mistakes with my first saw and glad I got some of the bullshit out of the way with a shit saw I was never concerned about from the day I brought it home. I like quivers of everything. Bikes, trucks, skis, etc. Looking forward to a 2nd saw soon. Shit saw in reserve for dirty low braches and stumps etc.
As for that coil question, could have been just more moisture in the air/condensation?
Put a new carb, hoses, fuel and air filters on the 026 and it rips now.
Hopefully next paycheck will be converting to 3/8 on a much longer bar.
What about the suckage of all that time running a piece of shit that doesn't produce ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rideski
IME one is either running a saw for fun or money and either way a good saw makes sense, in any case I'm betting if you don't care about the saw you got and the job you are doing, you are too cheap to spend 2 or 3 times as much $$$ to buy a pro grade saw
and BTW, I got some really shitty skis I will sell ya
Blah blah. I should probably run out and buy a $20,000 motorcycle for my first too, eh?
It was frustrating at the time and I’m still behind partially as a result, but I feel the better for having bought an abused pro-level saw and bringing it back to life.
However receiving a brand new high end saw as a gift (while the other saw was in multiple pieces on the bench saved me ass).
20k isnt much for a bike nowdays but since you are riding bikes for fun how much is your fun worth ?
in any case we aren't talking about 20,000$ motorcyces we are talking about walking into a store to spend 800$ for a 261/361/XP550 which are the best versions of A tool one can buy to do work, a tool that will cut more wood trouble free for longer and last you for many years if you take the proper care of it
OR you could cycle thru 2 or 3 poulans for the same 800$ , had the low performance / shitty time as each one slowly died in turn and at the end you got nothing,
If that math works for you go for it eh
Hey - I wouldn’t suggest someone purchase their first skis from Walmart- and I wouldn’t suggest anyone get a Walmart chainsaw either. but to each their own. I was spoilt myself as I received my first “pro-model” saw for my 13th birthday. I’ve used some shit saws since and I wouldn’t wish em on anyone. I see it kind of like using dull knives. Bad saws lead to fatigue, frustration and bad form - those things are dangerous.
You ever see hot saws 101 on YouTube? Dudes a full on saw dork-he has a twenty minute video on oil-and has built a few little ripper saws. Probably not that applicable for you, but entertaining. Let us know how the 026 does!Quote:
Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy
A souped up Poulan would rip eh !
I've spent plenty of time using assorted pro saws, and even more time using mid level, ~$400 saws. The pro saws are clearly superior, but for the average homeowner that's doing some yardwork and cutting a bit of firewood, throwing $800 at a saw is entirely unnecessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Unless you want to hand it down to your grandkids. lulzQuote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I agree to some extent which is why I asked whats the app ?
The model numbers don't really make any logical sense to me especially on older saws compared to new saws, so I have to goggle them but most end users have no idea what the app is of the saw they are using or that there is an app, so the saw is just a saw that only cost the least amount of money possible, it will be used/overused until its dead whereas the pro saw is built to run flat out all day and take whatever you can do to it
Cuz people don't tend to stop at a big piece of wood or half way thru a big bucking job to let that cheap saw with the plastic engine cases cool down, many don't really know how to sharpen a chain so buddy just leans on it harder and it just gets hotter until it doesnt
So instead of blowing up 3 of them cheap saws you could have bought a pro saw and as counselor Hutz the logger turned lawyer said ... you would only cry once
a friend and i have stihl saws that look similar on paper for power, but mine is "pro" level and his is "homeowner,. he is careful about use of ethanol fuel and (over) uses a shop to keep it tuned and his chains sharp. working together and swapping saws, mine is considerably faster (lighter, too).
below is a pict from this week of the repairs backlog at one of the handful of local small engine repair shops in my area. being CA, i'd bet that most of these saw have carb issues related to ethanol fuel where a carb kit would solve the problem. and that's not related to model # of the saw.
Attachment 282792
I duno if the fuel is any different up here but I experiance no problems running premium in small engines
if the shop is full of Huskavarna and Sthil obviously they suck
get the red one er I mean the Orange one !
It’s a user problem. Trying to run ethanol-Ed fuel that they probably bought last spring/summer.
always dump the bottom of last year's fuel jug in the truck and dilute by filling the tank, even if its premix & premium
Going cheap on the fuel and or not using fuel conditioner is just not worth the hassles you may end up with,
no starting problems on any of my small engines lawnmower/weedeater/cahinsaw/snowblower
I think the ethanol makes a pretty big difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I tend to be pretty casual about using last fall's gas come spring, and I've never had a problem (even with gas that I forgot to stabilize). But that's using pure gas and quality oil. But I'd bet a lot of people are just using shitty low grade pump gas with ethanol. Or they think they're putting in premium, but there isn't a separate nozzle at the gas station and realistically the first 1/2 gallon is whatever is sitting in the hose, which is likely 85 octane crap. Which means if they're only mixing a gallon, half of their batch of premix is shit gas.
Fill vehicle and gas can on same trip, car with a few gal of the non-ethanol premium before filling can. Unfortunately there's no place with a separate nozzle around here.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
We have a local place that has 91 octane ethanol free on a separate pump. I try to always get that and throw in some stabilizer right away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Good point ! Next time I mix up saw fuel I will run off whatever sits in the hose into the truck and then fill my 10 L jug
I had a neighbor who altho being a HD mechanic was given responsibility for all the small engines at a bulk carrier because they had ended up all dead due to bad fuel, if something didnt work it just got put it back on the rack until at some point nothing worked, so he fixed them all and then mandated all fuel must have conditioner period ... all his problems went away
Quote:
Originally Posted by LHutz Esq
The importance of this statement cannot be overstated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
All 13.6 seconds would crush, bro. Guaranteed. Definitely send it bub!
Interesting thing - my current saw is my old man - the logger’s- old farm saw. I found it under his deck and brought her back to life. It’s old and heavy and likes to drink back the fuel - but I am in no hurry to replace her. She is prob anywhere from 18-25 yrs old and has had a haaard life but cuts like a champ.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Before
Attachment 282927
After
Attachment 282928
cleaned up pretty nice, wish i could look that good after all these yars, is that a 361?
I find cutting all this balsam turns a saw into a sticky ugly mess pretty quick
A lot of the Hankin BC area was cut by old loggers who were pretty much pushing the age 65 retirement
Nice. Are the dogs on upside down?Quote:
Originally Posted by LHutz Esq
NoQuote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
You want the rounded one on the bottom so you can “roll” on to it while bucking - which is what this is set up for- clearing trail and getting firewood.
For falling I may add some to the other side, and they would be more symmetrical
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I hadn’t noticed that bottom one. The rest just look a little counterintuitive to me. <shrug>Quote:
Originally Posted by LHutz Esq
My thinking is that the dogs are a pivot point to allow you to let the chain do the work with little arm input. So they are pointed away from the usual cutting direction . I have been witness to very long and esoteric discussions on dogs and dog size and dog shape and dog use - I think it’s prob use and species dependent. Mine just came with the saw - and I am cheap.
:D. No doubt.Quote:
Originally Posted by LHutz Esq
I haven't seen the double dogs and fullwrap handles on these relatively small 50-60 cc saws
I can think of some days cutting in a blizzard it would have been really nice to have the heated grips
I put double dogs on my ms361. When I got the saw it only had 1 dog. The saw spends a lot of time bucking large pine: 30+” diameter. Double dogs was a substantial improvement for me in letting the saw do the work and keeping the cuts straight. Picture also shows a bit of the mod I did to the muffler.
Attachment 283001
Put a pussy pac in your glove. ?Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
I have never tried the chemical heater pacs for cutting,
We are usually chasing the ski season so sometimes its uncomfortable and you just suck it up
in a blizzard its really uncomfortable
no bugs tho and no worries about starting a forest fire
550xp or ms-261 to run a 20” bar? Both dealers are local, Stihl dealer gets better reviews.
Upon further research they appear identical. Better dealer gets the nod.
https://www.forestry.com/editorial/e...-stihl-ms-261/
I’m not a big guy and weight matters to me after getting an ms240 when compared to my much heavier ms361. Granted my ms361 is much heavier than that husky. With a 20” bar, you might need to use a more standard chain, bar(?), and sprocket, which is not necessarily a bad thing, but could be an added expense. Those saws may come standard with picco chains and sprockets, at least my neighbor’s ms261 did. I think his dealer may have changed the chain and sprocket out of the picco system for no extra fee. I’m not sure if bars are picco. My neighbor did it to simplify things for himself. He also has an ms440. He can now interchange bars, chains, and use the same sharpening kit for both saws.