Good ideas.....writing this stuff down.
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Good ideas.....writing this stuff down.
Kev, me more later but I would start with getting a base line budget from https://sutherlands.com/garage-packages down in Salt Lake. Their packages are quality (or were 5 years ago). They probably have a pretty good contractor referal network. Friends of mine had a garage framed around 9th and 9th a couple of years ago. They were happy with whomever they used.
^^^I’ll get in touch with them, it’d be awesome to get some builder recs. I’m ready to go on this thing soon. Just got home and snapped a few photos of the current garage.
Looking down the driveway, I’m thinking I could go about 8 feet wider to lookers right:
Attachment 284737
Hard to tell from the photo but the driveway is long single width and goes under Porte cochere. So wouldn’t ever park more than one car in there.
Attachment 284738
And then from my back porch. You can see that this east side is partially below grade. It’d be awesome if I could get rid of that old pool house and combine it into one new place. But all of the pool stuff is piped into there through slab so I’m not sure how expensive that’d be.
Attachment 284739
Tile setting jong here with a bunch of time on my hands. Am I outta my mind to even consider ripping out the old bathroom tile (floor and shower) and the doing the tile work myself? Room is about 6ft wide and likely 10 ft deep. Watching videos on You Tube, I think I could do it.
my wife has tiled at least 3 bathrooms==taught herself and they all turned out very well. A pro could tell a diyer did it but the average person couldn't. She's very patient and very careful. It seems to be all in the layout.Quote:
Originally Posted by liv2ski
Totally! It's honestly not that hard. I'm with ya, though. Rip out everything down to the bones and start from scratch. The key is patience. I'm a total tile jong myself, but when comparing my own work to many "pros", I feel my product has been superior. Whereas they're under the gun to get a job done ASAP (getting paid by the foot!), I am a perfectionist. I will reset a tile a dozen times if I have to. Now it actually drives me nuts to see the tile in every new place I'm in because I'm analyzing it and seeing all the wonky lines, stupid layouts, uneven tiles, lousy cuts (like around door trim or baseboards instead of underneath), etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by liv2ski
Last home of mine, the tile the builder put in didn't last 10 years. Started falling off the sides, pulling up randomly, mortar and grout failing everywhere. Total crap job. You know it's bad when you can pull all the tiles by hand without even needing gloves. Haha. I ripped it all out to the subfloor and re-did it. Gorgeous product in the end that smokes anything I've seen in a new home.
THAT SAID, be aware that there are some clowns on YouTube that give awful advice. A lot of good advice out there too, but you really have to sift through a lot to figure out what's best overall. That, and you should honestly ask here. There's a few good threads already on the subject believe (I could be one of them). There's a TON of great experience in this forum. Some pretty skilled mofos around here.
tile is best set with a cooler of Budweiser and plenty of smoke breaks
Tile advice would be to spend a bit extra on a quality system like Schluter. They have any product you need and really good instructional videos.
I’m about to pull the trigger (sledge hammer) on our tiled shower.
x 2!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
I did my last tile job using the full system all the way around. NEVER going back to that cement board crap ever again. Totally worth the extra couple bucks.
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^^^ Austin, clue me in as to what you guys are discussing exactly. Thanks
Just did a master bath with Schluter Ditra (floor) and the Schluter Kerdi shower system. Ditra is about 1000% easier than cement board backer to install. My first shower install, I probably would not have attempted it without the Kerdi system. Pretty happy with the results and confident that it will not leak.
This stuff. It rocks: https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...TRA-XL/p/DITRAQuote:
Originally Posted by liv2ski
This is also pretty baller: https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us...T/p/DITRA_HEAT
Their website has TONS of great resources on how to do all the installations. I've used a bunch of their products including the Kerdi board for my shower walls as well as their profile trim pieces (very classy looking when it's all done like that). Bunch of tile pros I've talked to said it's all they'll use now. Easier installation. Way more bullet-proof in the long run.
Here's a decent intro:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fG6_8iEIVJw
Anyone ever use this Wedi board stuff? https://www.wedi.de/en/products/buil...uilding-board/Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinFromSA
Used it a little on a recent project but definitely not to it's full potential. Seems like it would make a full shower install/rebuild much easier.
Wedi is good too
Our preferred tile guy is married to the Schluter world so we work with that system a bunch
Huh. Never seen it. It looks just like Kerdi board, though just in blue rather than orange. I bet it's every bit as good, just a different brand.Quote:
Originally Posted by shredgnar
Yeah, the reason he probably does that is if you're an installer, you pretty much have to use the entire Schluter system top to bottom for the company to honor the warranty, which is lifetime if you do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
Yeah, I think it is a little thinner. I don't know shit, but a GC friend of mine was telling me he uses it a lot in some high end builds in the Vail valley, so I figured it was pretty decent.Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinFromSA
hey, i would just sawsall through the drywall and cut it out each wall in one piece...lot easier....then go back with green board....then wonder or concrete board....then tileQuote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
i've heard subs tell me one is better than the other, but i think they all get factory training & ultimately have a financial stake in using one vs the other per warrantees & preferred pricingQuote:
Originally Posted by shredgnar
for all intents & purposes, they are of high quality & basically interchangeable
That may be, but taking a sledge to a wall is a WHOLE lot more fun than doing it the tidy way. I'm with ya, though. Cleanup's much easier using a saw. Still. Not as fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by MiCol
Yup. Spot on.Quote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
Just make sure you use the premixed "thinset" and grout out of the big tub. You can use the same product for both.
Just fucking kidding. Don't be that guy.
^^^
LOL root skier that was good
Seems like the sawzall would be a whole lot dustier.Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinFromSA
BTW the proper tool is the maul.
All right I have another pergola question...
Pergola will be freestanding on back patio. Approx dims are 12’x10’ (centers of posts).Planning on 6x6 posts. Beams will be two 2x’s resting in notched posts (so four 2x’s total). Planning on running rafters on top (notching about 1.5” so they sit down into beam) then maybe some 1x purlins on top of rafters. Height to bottom of beam will be approx 8’.
Trying to determine beam and rafter size. Wondering about strength (be nice to hang a hammock if possible) as well as appearance. Thinking beams should be one size up from rafters.
Was leaning 2x10 for beams and 2x8 for rafters. Or one size down?Hard for me to picture.
Any insight?
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Yeah, schluter or equivalent all the way. I also did the epoxy grout, but note if you do that you're on a timer from when you mix to when it will no longer come off the tile.
Follow the instructions on the schluter/wedi stuff (need 2 kinds of thinset), be patient and layout your tile so you can cut before the big pour/setting.
You can hook a sawzall up to a dust extractor these days and not breathe that shit in and make a giant mess,Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
Oh doy. The maul is the correct answer.Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
Yup! Also like to use my Roto-Zip sometimes. Has a nice little attachment to plug it right up to the shop vac. Works great! If I gotta get more precise or up against edges though, I like my oscillating multitool and just hold the shop vac to catch the dust as it falls out. Easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by snoqpass
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JH0JquloAs
A man after my own heart.Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
we installed Schluter and used the linear drains in the showers and are happy with the result.
How does the Schluter system provide enough rigidity for the grout not to crack?
i've wondered that myself, but it does - i'll have to ask my tile guyQuote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
i know he only uses the foam panels now
they even do independent partitions with just the board
We've done some tile in a couple houses we've finished (finishing…) and have gone the whole max route with screwing down the cement board and painting that with that black sealant.
My wife is a perfectionist in laying the tile. She did our first house bathroom in cream 12" travertine with super thin grout spacing, reviewed by Bill Gate's personal contractor as professionally perfect.
She did a killer job on a bathroom in the new house with custom tiles and here vv is the layout, again with custom tiles in the entryway, prepped in the same way (haven't buttered and grouted yet obviously)
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...2&d=1491171639
So all that prep is a done deal. My wife cut and laid out this ^^ from 4"x4" tiles.
But now, we going to finish a sunroom as a solar collector in dark green slate. I wouldn't mind skipping the days of measuring, cutting and placing the cement board nor the joy of painting the black sealant goo. I'd do this Schluter system if I understood why the grout wouldn't crack.
We've also got a steamshower and master bath with tubsurround to finish.
tile guy response
schluter vs wedi: wedi ultimately relies on a sealant joint (whereas schluter relies on a 5" flashing that spans joints) & that opens up the ability for problems to form, but he agreed that installed correctly, it's great/reliable
schluter flex: Grout does flex on a micro level so it can handle a certain amount of movement before cracks occur. The board thickness is stipulated by tile size & joint size per Schluter rules. You have to work with their rules based on substrate makeup, but they pretty much have it dialed. And there are still needs for soft relief joints (ie, inside corners). He described test sample installs they did in training that proved how bomber everything ends up.
Is substrate makeup defined by sheathing and studs/joists?
btw, my dad's side of the family is from Paisley. He's kind of first gen.
yes, substrate is all those things, but you have options, either based on what's there already (existing) or what you choose to put up (new const). You can go straight foam over studs or put up sheet rock/cement board/green board. Schluter has rules for each.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
my grandparents had a place not far from there (Clarkston, just directly south of Glasgow) that i visited growing up. i think my dad's house growing up was on the other side of the river nearer downtown glasgow proper...i'd have to ask himQuote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
(I have to admit I'm having trouble visualizing your arrangement...)Quote:
Originally Posted by criscam
beams aside, i think you might have trouble with the hammock idea because there isn't anything really bracing this structure diagonally...so you might get sway, or worse
For lateral restraint, you can:
1) mimic a pole building & have a deep set post (basically cantilevering up out of the ground & restrained by the strength of the posts); or
2) have a design that has either sheathing or diag corner brackets resisting the out-of-plane forces [you seem to be in this world based on your footing ques earlier]
I think what might determine your sizes for a small structure like this is more likely what looks good proportionally for timber framing (bigger likely better & showing differential btwn sizes of sub-elements).
basically something like thisQuote:
Originally Posted by acinpdx
Attachment 285157
yea posts will be set on top of footings and anchored in w post bases. the sway thing kinda makes sense but it will/should be pretty rigid when all said and done so...
i think i'm leaning toward 2x10 beams and 2x8 rafters (and 1x purlins) but...
Seems like some decorative corner bracing might be a good idea (if you want to take building advice from a doctor).
Seems like it should work, and the doctor is correct...
whatz going right here?Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
Pretty sweet job !
Attachment 285221
We have a piece of the Berlin Wall we're milling down to fit. This is just the layout, not mortared in yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by MiCol
Buster why are you worried about flex? Just follow Kerdi's instructions, it will be fine. The "original" kerdi system was just the waterproofing membrane on top of regular sheetrock with UNmodified thinset holding it on. Sheetrock is flexible as shit until it is screwed onto the studs, at which point it no longer flexes. Same with the new foam board systems.