You're talking Alpine or AT/pin bindings?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fritz
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You're talking Alpine or AT/pin bindings?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fritz
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
Either I suppose as long as the toe works with the Vulcan. Is it still just a function of toe height adjustability on the alpine clamp? Wasn’t sure if AT is better suited for the boot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Va Ki Bo
Yes, mainly rockered sole vs toe height thing. So alpine bindings like Warden 13 MNC will work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fritz
(Personally use old STH Driver inbounds with Vulcans successfully, but not recommended officially).
Using pin-bindings inbounds is the way to make your life brighter. Still.
I have ft12s on bibbys for resort and they’ve always felt tight but I only ride lifts a couple times/year. I just wonder how much of a beating they can really take.
Marker lords work great with Vulcans. I hate pin bindings inbounds but maybe that’s just me.
Beast 16 toes are bad in your experience overall, independent of version?Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
I've been out of the loop for a while, still have a pair of 2016 Beast 16's that I haven't ever mounted.
Looks like there was a Beast 16 lite that had a Beast 14 toe?
https://www.sport-conrad.com/index.p...0ba578cf31206&
I've never added a Booster Strap. Anything special you need to do to add it to the Merc/Vulcan.Quote:
Originally Posted by shafty85
I've been skiing with out the tongues mainly... I find them good to have on a warmer day though. Without them, soundtimes it lacks a little rebound and moooshy on a warm day but I just find them so comfy without.
when the original Dynafit pwr straps fell off on day 2 I just left them off cuz I didnt reall notice any difference with or without so I never used a pwrstrap on Mercury or Vulcan which makes for one less thing to futz with in the BC
but if you wanted to use the original mounting screws to mount a booster or even put the original strap back on when it falls off you would need bigger washers on the mounting screws so the strap doesnt pull thru
or you don't necessarily need to anchor them to the cuff
Ski 'em these days with no tongue, no flex stops and a poached new/old wider stiffer velcro powerstrap. Still too stiff in certain conditions (cold temps, stratagucci in alpine, deep bottomless pow) Can't stand booster straps...too spongy. Firm velcro strap set 'just right' gets the flex close to 'just right' but still workin' on the progressive flex mod to get it perfect. Initially wanted to alter the carbon cuff but discovered it wasn't a good idea for long term life of the boot and my ideas required some mods to the cuff...so, i'll keep brainstorming for different angles of attack.
I just drilled a couple holes with t-nuts, washers and lock-tite. Moved them upwards vs the stock powerstrap location which allows me to cinch it down on the tongue of the liner, as they're meant to be used. No issues so far. Wife just used one hole on hers and they seem to work fine for her that way. I'd do 2 t-nuts and washers vs 1 but i doubt it matters much - all they do is hold it in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChowdahRidah
From my experience long term usage of Vulcans with no straps leads to cuff rivets breakage - rivets that hold PU front flaps on carbon cuff, starting from top one.
Thank you! So the Powerstrap holds the tongue in place better (which would be great) and gives them a bit more rebound? Did you go for the expert powerstrap or WC or ???
Seconded about tearing rivets. Mine are all t- nutted now
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Weird. Are you skiing tongues in or out? I’ve got first year Vulcans and have almost exclusively skiied them no tongues or straps and the rivets are good, despite lots of days.
I never broke anything on mercurys or Vulcans
That's actually good news...should be eezee to drill em and pop the rivets out. Going for another mod; remove the p/u part, drill new holes in the carbon a bit rearward so the wrap of the p/u takes up the volume of my low volume lower legs mo betta. Oh and, gonna ditch the whole power strap thing and add another p/u wing and buckle from an old dh boot, might make it kinda overlappy. Line of thinking is with the increased leverage/torque from a higher cuff buckle and more plastic wrap, might be able to get more ankle flex outta these bastards.Quote:
Originally Posted by Va Ki Bo
Regarding breaking stuff...snapped off both of the cuff Canada Arm buckles of my Mercuries...but more due to user error...dryland hiking for summer ski access through boulder fields and stepping down a set of stairs...the buckle protrudes juuuust enough to catch on rocks and edge of stair steps, etc. Gotta be more careful in the future, don't wanna trash the Vulcans 'cause i fear that replacement Canada Arms might be mo difficult to find these days?
Ski buddy trashed almost all the rivets skiing without the tongues during one ski season, but he is full-season/full-time ski instructor so it's not a typical ski season. As carbon is a bitch to repair - now he always uses the tongues and strap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chugachjed
I ski Vulcans with expert boosters and tongues-in exclusively, and also noticed trashed top rivets holes last year. I don't know, may be it's just the time for new boots, 5-th or 6-th season now for first run Vulcans?
ChowdahRidah,
Used Expert boosters only. Weight 150 lbs and feel it adequately springy for me, so WC definetly not sounds like overkill for some mortals. If in doubt, I'd go WC.
I’m looking at a lightly used pair of Vulcans that does not have the « cuff stops » screw on the side of the cuff. I think it means it’s a model from the first years ? Does this model have some built in cuff stops bumps inside, like on the Mercury, or no cuff stops at all ?
I’m talking about that screw :
https://i.lensdump.com/i/WIbs5x.jpg
Anyone know ? :)
I've searched all the pages of this thread and most say that the 1st model of Vulcan without that screw does NOT have built in flex stops, but one guy says that it does have it, like on the Mercury.
I believe that the first year Vulcan didn’t have built in stops. Does the cuff have the holes? Maybe you could turn up some bolt-ons for ‘em.
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all we need is for someone to take a look in their 1st year Vulcan to see if there are built in stops
my understanding was that early Vulcans had built in stops, I don't think the boot would be stiff as it was without any stops at all
I don't know why dynafit went to bolt in stops but my 3rd yr boot came with 2 different size of stop
I don't have them any longer but am 99% sure that they didn't have stops - those came in year 2. I felt like mine were still really stiff and would only be overwhelmed occasionally when skiing inbounds and transitioning from packed to powder where your skis would suddenly slow down but your body wanted to go over the handlebars. In that scenario, they would fold a little.
All that said, I would trade my TLT6s for a pair of Vulcans or Mercuries in a heartbeat. The 6s walk nicely but those Vulcans were awesome for everything and skied well on the down.
Seth
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Can confirm first year Vulcans neither had nor needed cuff stops.
Thanks guys.
I'm fine with no cuff stops as I currently ski my Mercury without the tongue and plan to do the same with that Vulcan. I'm pretty light. So no cuff stops is better for me !
I just purchased a used set of 2013 Vulcan’ in very good overall condition, however they arrived without the removable tongues. The seller said he didn’t know what I was talking about when I asked why they did not come with them.
I realize this is an old thread and a long shot...but does anyone have a set of tongues for 2013 Vulcans?
Yah I've got some. They're just taking up space so I can ship them to you for the cost. Where are you located?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shock79
that might suck unless you decide you don't need the tongues ?
Note there are a L and R side, also different sizes of tongue for different sizes of boot which are stamped on the top of the tongue at the very front
Unless the seller specifyed " no tongues " he owes you something
edit: my poo flinging yellow friend has come thru with the goods, you are a lucky joe !
WHOAH, that would be amazing! I should be able to arrange shipping through my ups account!Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeLau
I will send you a pm, thank you so much!!!
Having a hard time posting, I keep getting “denied” messages.
Can you send me a pm or give me a call?
518-332-nine-two-two-five
email is lypheracing@gmail.com
thanks!!!
I should mention from the stamping on the tongue it would appear Dynafit covered 2 sizes with the same tongue so mine say 23/24.5
Mine are 26.5, I wonder if the will still work, but maybe not perfectly? I skied them today and they were pretty good, but a little more forward pressure might be nice for resort skiing on hardpack.
Dug through one bin and couldn't find it. Going to dig through another. I could've sworn I had them.0Quote:
Originally Posted by Shock79
Is the vulcan last stiffer than the mercury last? Most of the flexing on the mercury happens on the last bellow the cuff pivot. Sure the Vulcan carbon cuff is stiffer, but fail to see how they add much more stiffness when the flexing is on the last.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocximus
not sure what "last stiffer " means
I thot most of the stiffness comes from the cuff hitting the stops and the carbon cuff is way stiffer so the vulcan is way stiffer?
I went from Mercury to Vulcan and I had to get the 3 yrs old pwerwraps remolded remolded cuz they were just slightly too tight, I was all set to buy new liners but Tom at intuition said you don't really need new liners we will just remold these and you can come back in a couple or 3 years to buy new liners
so the Vulcan is definatley very much stiffer and IME very slightly smaller for the same size boot but i'm not sure exaclty from where ??
Last, I thought the boot lower is called the last.
Anyways, my mercury have slack. Looks like it's both from the pivot and the locking mechanism. I can score some dirt cheap hojis for parts. Is the cuff pivot compatible and better or should I just get the B&D?
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The lower part of a ski boot is called the clog and the upper is the cuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocximus
A last is the shaped three dimensional form around which the clog is molded (or moulded, depending upon your version of English).
Duno how you would do that, wouldn't you be destroying the rivets getting them out ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocximus
but it sounds like the whole facking boot might be pretty worn out, since you know exactly what size you take if i were you, I would just look around for another Vulcan that wasnt so worn out, you could probably find a slightly used boot for 250$, or think about a whole nuther boot like the Hoji ?
Do the hojis fit like a vulcan? Vulcans fit me pretty well with a tour wrap. Heel, cuff, instep are perfect and the forefoot has a tiny bit of extra space that im perfectly fine with
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I tried on pair of the 115's ( cuz of small hAZN foot) and i think they would work
For reference I am a total Mercury/Vulcan Fanboi, I have a high arch/ narrow lowvolume heel & ankle with a wide flat forefoot, pwerwrap avec sole foot bed