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What plugboots says. Live in it before remodeling. We bought a house, my wife wanted to open the wall between the entry and the dining room. 40 years later the wall is still there and she can't remember why she wanted t o open it. Gray is the avocado of the 2020s.
Avocado is an amazing color.
For guacamole.
Is it just me but do those new colors remind you of a hospitol corridor and how could they paint a vehical that color and expect me to buy it, i had to order white from the factory
My little boys books all call it a cement mixer, or a cement truck. I just replace that with concrete when reading him books, or playing with his toys. Poor guy is gonna grow up convinced that you spell concrete C-E-M-E-N-T.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
<p>
I think of it as a machine that mixes cement in with gravel and water to make concrete. So kind of both</p>Quote:
Originally Posted by liv2ski
So how do you know when you need to redo your roof shingles?
Asphalt or wood?
Asphalt shingles. House is about 30yo, but might have been redone during that time, not sure.
Widespread granule loss and cracking, loose and torn shingles.
Granule loss exposes the matting which will lead to rapid deterioration due to UV and weather exposure, and can happen with hail damage, foot traffic, age, or manufacturer defects. Cracking is usually age related and a good indicator of end of service life. Loose shingles occur when the glue strip isn't adhered anymore and the shingles can lift and tear in the wind, also usually age related.
You can google search for pictures and that will give you a good idea what to look for.
You're welcome
First heating season with our new heat pump and I've been shocked at what a POS it is. Fortunately we installed a NG furnace as backup heat and have just been using that almost all the time.
Finally called the HVAC company when the thermostat was at 68 but the temp was 62 with outside temps in the low 40s. They agreed that seemed off and came out today to check it out. They determined it wasn't charged with enough refrigerant at install and brought it up to spec. Total eyeroll, but interested to see if it works better for us now.
Mine are working well into low single digits.
With electricity so expensive in San Diego, a heat pump makes little sense to me. Hopefully your location is way different.
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I’m not sure when is the right time for you, but the City of SD is headed towards electric power exclusively (solar, wind ok too, but electric)Quote:
Originally Posted by liv2ski
https://www.sandiego.gov/sustainabil...20partnerships.
Been experimenting with mine during a recent cold spell and it seems to stop being able to keep up right around zero:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq70/923/lHCVER.jpg
It is set to keep running until -5--my understanding is that even though it can't keep up with the heat loss, it is still likely producing some heat at a lower cost than the heat strips. But I'm not 100% sure that's true and it might be better to just have a hard cutoff around 0-5F and switch over to the heat strips.
Partially for comfort--when the heat pump is borderline, it pushes out very lukewarm air and runs the fan nonstop. Constantly having 75F air blowing around the house trying to keep it at 69 probably feels drafty/cooler than just blowing HOT air from the backup heat a few times an hour.
Mine is new but not a particularly fancy unit (single stage 14 seer installed by previous owner in 2023 when they knew they would be moving out soon).
Have a 100 year old retaining wall in the backyard that's at end of life. Its about thirty inches tall by twenty five feet long. Replacement options are poured concrete (or is it cement?), dry laid stone, or gabion. Need to put a six foot privacy fence either on top or six to twelve inches behind it. Anyone have thoughts on relative costs to hire it out? Would like the stone but assuming it will be way more expensive than the other options to have it done right.
Natural stone will be $$$$
You mostly see dry stacked block walls for that application - they hit the sweet spot - cost vs looks.
I would be concerned with a fence directly behind the wall. But [emoji637][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]]”+ wouldn’t be a concern.
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setting fence posts in concrete sounds easiest if you can narrow to one contractor and aren’t worried about losing lot space
The retaining wall is the property line, so the fence behind the wall would be a convo with that neighbor, but he would probably be ok with it because thats not really usable space in his yard. Theres an existing fence in that location already but its falling down
Tough call without seeing it or knowing your budget
Could dry lay a stacked concrete wall in front of the existing wall. Then need backfill.
Could also dry lay stone in front.
Or. Pour concrete. And veneer or whatever. Ooof. Big money.
If you can get three truckloads of nice stones a foot diameter. And dry lay them against the failing wall it’s a diy and affordable and will be a nice look. Place fabric behind the stones as you backfill.
The fence can be the same place.
Best material for a shower pan? Design/build folks suggested acrylic (barf) or a mud base with tile. I'm going to ask them to look at enamel/porcelain over steel/cast iron. Are any of the composites worth a damn?
Biggest criteria is longevity and low maintenance, I want it to last 30 years.
Schluter or equivalent is my go-to. Unless you don't want to tile the floor, in which case you could use a one piece fiberglass/acrylic or metal. Either will be done unless you drop an anvil onto it.Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_pdx
Tile redi makes some very nice one piece custom pans that might be good if you (gasp!) want a linear drain.
Thanks man! I'm open to tiling the floor, just assuming it will need to be sealed often and regrouted every 5 to 10 years or so, which seems like a drag. Am I wrong about that?Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
Is schluter a pre-made pan? That seems like a better approach than getting someone to build the mud bed and tile it. Lots more opportunity for error if you're doing the mud bed by hand, right? I wonder why our design build folks didn't suggest a pre-made pan.
Re: linear drains, I have no strong feelings one way or the other beyond recognizing that they are the hot new thing, which might not be a fit for our 1913 bungalow. Are they a challenge from a plumbing perspective?
Schluter is a waterproofing and isolation system. They have a premade pan option, is a foam base with slope. There are a thousand YouTube videos for this stuff.
My dad's a DIY guy and has redone three bathrooms with Schluter now. He loves the stuff.
(I'd value climberevans opinion over mine on this any day, but point is that it's not something that only people who work with it day in day out can use.)
I think the composite (corian) pans are nice, and pretty care free, but you're not going to save any money on them holy cow.
I did this, it’s pretty straightforward.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack;[emoji[emoji6[emoji640
Sent from my iPhone using [emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji640][emoji638][emoji638][emoji638]]TGR Forums
This is the only bathroom in the house and we decided it would be better for marital harmony to hire it out rather than for me to figure it out over the course of a few months. So DIY is off the table and we're going to pay through the nose instead for hopefully a better end result than what I would have deliveredQuote:
Originally Posted by Skistack
You’re smarter than me. We did have another bathroom, but I had to share it with my wife and [emoji638] teenage daughters for several weeks. Not ideal.
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I would like to to do the bathroom in my suite and then I jack the rent up to pay for it but I gotta wait till the tennants who have been there 12- 13 yrs to move out but no rush eh
Dealing with a leaking shower can be a real hassle so I think a one piece pan that will never leak is the best idea
fucking houses, man...
No kidding. As soon as we hit the mega jillions, I'm going to hire a property manager for my house and start taking weekends off from house maintenanceQuote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
There is no reason a tiled shower floor can't last 30years with modern materials, technique and good craftmanship. And mud deck is outdated. Many dudes still use it but it is much harder to do correctly and much more labor intensive. I use the custom CNDd tile ready pans from these dudes https://shower-concepts.com/
Yes, Schluter has a good system and good products but they are really expensive and not unique anymore.
Also, you can do large format or even slabs on shower floors now. I've got some kick ass Ukranians that do slab showers (floors and walls) for a very fair price. There are linear drains that are really easy to waterproof these days.
Finally got my roof replaced after a couple hail storms two summers back. We upgraded from shiiitay 3-tab asphalt to stone-coated steel. New skylights as well. Homeowner's insurance went down 40% immediately.
And that is before the "Impact Resistant Roof" discount - so perhaps it'll be 50% reduction once all is said and done.
It's rare to win in the homeownership game, but I'll take this one. [emoji16]
<p>
There is no reason a tiled shower floor can't last 30years with modern materials, technique and good craftmanship. And mud deck is outdated. Many dudes still use it but it is much harder to do correctly and much more labor intensive. I use the custom CNDd tile ready pans from these dudes https://shower-concepts.com/ Yes, Schluter has a good system and good products but they are really expensive and not unique anymore. Also, you can do large format or even slabs on shower floors now. I've got some kick ass Ukranians that do slab showers (floors and walls) for a very fair price. There are linear drains that are really easy to waterproof these days.</p>
Thanks Foggy! We're working with an experienced and well-reviewed design/build contractor so I've been kind of surprised at some of the conversations we've had. Like the only options they gave for the shower floor were an acrylic pan and tile over mud bed. When your subs do a slab floor, is it literally a quartz slab over a pre-made shower pan? That seems like it would last a million years.Quote:
Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
LMK if your Ukrainian subs want to visit Portland.
If I could do it all over again (and very well may in the not too distant future) I'd go townhouse with a garage so I at least don't have to deal with all the exterior shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
Care to define "fair?" I recently got quoted $12k to replace a tiny little stall shower with basic builder grade shit. Definitely did a double take.Quote:
Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
We got two quotes from well reviewed design build contractors in Portland for a gut job on a tiny bathroom (about sixty square feet) and they both said 60k as the base, up from there depending on how many bells and whistles we add.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Meanwhile, Google tells me that people are getting their whole bathrooms redone for 15K in Portland. Whatever