$150 a foot to reline our main line? Really?
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$150 a foot to reline our main line? Really?
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$150 a foot to reline our main line? Really?
well if you havent noticed in my 33211 posts I am a money grubbing bastard SO back when BIL was marketing pipe genie HOW MUCH was the first thing I asked him
he said probably about the same $$$$ as if you had to get it all dug up but you wouldnt have to deal with the dug up bits
there is a testimonial where the line in a Walmart or SFT got replaced so how much would that have cost eh
Where the fuck is the water coming into my basement from? Near the corner of the house, the outside is cement driveway and graded away. The one questionable spot has a drainage channel that I cleaned out recently and it's diverting runoff away from the house as designed. It's a big WTFF. we only get a cup or two on a rainy day and it's an unfinished basement so NBD, but it's pissing me off
gotta ask do you have drain tile my town was built on a swamp becuz it was the cheapest/ bestplace for someones BIL to buy cheap land which could then be sold for a huge profit to the CN railway when Canada was being built so most houses have drian tile and a sump pump some have 2 sump pumps and its what made Canada great
IME it is always much cheaper to just trench and replace the pipe. the only reason we go with pipe bursting is when trenching is infeasible for some reason (pipe runs under a street with a moratorium on cuts, or trenching would kill some "heritage trees", etc). Slip lining wont solve your root/tree issues, itll return... but if you open trench, you can reroute the sewer away from roots, and/or cut the roots way back and is a much longer term fix.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
If you dont have anything preventing or making an open trench a huge PITA, there is not reason to slipline or pipe burst, IMO.
^is my expert opinion only knowing 20% of the important facts of the case.
well exactly think about digging up a walmart & P-lot or a road of how about if the place has nice gardens/ driveways yadafuckingyada ect which underlines get the quotes
my house for instance has an easment where the line goes under my house from the old POS next door which was 3 shacks pushed/ bolted togetehr back in the day
CG, you really think doing the pipe relining is not going to keep my neighbors magnolia tree roots from growing back into my line? The roots that grow in are very small, a little thicker than the hair on your head.
My main goes through my neighbor's side yard, so trenching it all out really is not very practical unless as the only choice.
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$[emoji637][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]]/ft sounds right.
Lining will not fix a big tap root from displacing your pipe but it should prevent the little root infestation clog situation you allude too…
IME - Price is about equal relining vs open cut (if you ignore the costs of redoing whatever flatwork and landscape is fucked by the open cut)
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You could always do the main re-lining yourself.
Install a cleanout in the yard and schedule a roto rooter every year.
I have been doing the line myself every 4 months to try and avoid issues for the last 5+ years. It is getting old as am I.
"You could always do the main re-lining yourself".
I have skilz, but I am uncertain I am up to that job.
Is youre groundwater high? You might have a perched groundwater situation where an impermeable layer of soil is 5' down and so surface water infiltrates down and then flows sideways ontop of that layer getting trapped up against your basement wall. My $0.02 would be to auger/dig a hole near your leak, to below slab. Cover with a board and see if/when it fills with water. If it fills with water, you got a groundwater issue. McGuyver solution would be to dig the hole a little deeper, drop a couple inches of gravel in, drop a home depot bucket (w/ lid) into the hole that has holes drilled in the bottom. Surroung the bucket with more gravel. Get yourself a shitty $50 sump pump from harbor freight and either rig a float system, or just manually flip it during storms.
Been there done that, a few years back we had snow oct 31st ground was saturated roofs had snow temp went up everything melted to raise the water table in what is basicly a swamp so a once in a bunch of years event tennant texts that water is coming in there was a hole for a sump pump but had been pulled out and not replaced,
the only thing I could do is use the shop vacum so every 15 min all night long to kept it at bay, probably 50 shop vacs full of water since I was up all night any way I went to the building supply bought the last sump pump and then rented the last portable pump in town it was amazing how fast a sump pump will empty the drain tiles, I gave the rented pump to my neighbor across the street who had 6" of water in his basement, basements all over were flooded but no damage for me with that shop vac so I dodged a bullet on that sump pump fiasco, note that the old pumps had a metal impeller so what happens it sits in water and the metal impeller rusts off. and you got no sump pump
On another situ I walked into a house after a away week skiing where i could hear the sump pump motor but the impeller was rusted off so no pumping and there was flooding a new pump will have a plastic impeller so no rusting the sump pum could have been running for a week ... something worth updating
Sounds like $150/ft is a reasonable price, then.Quote:
I have skilz, but I am uncertain I am up to that job.
Either a back hoe is rented OR that trench job is the job given to the plumbers helper
Seriously? We had a whole program at the last municipality I worked at that did CIPP sewer lining and manhole lining to address groundwater infiltration. Open cut wasn't even close to competitive with the costs due to traffic control, paving back, flatwork, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by californiagrown
Yeah, the pipe ex. and install might be cheaper as a line item, but as a whole was not economical compared to CIPP.
If you plan on keeping the property long term, i would suggest open trench, see what the actual root situation looks like around your pipe and then either re-route it, or significantly cut back the roots. If you dont plan on keeping the property long term, go with whatever is cheaper/easier which just may be sliplining... and you could get lucky and have the sliplining solve all your problems long term. Remeber that you only need to trench and replace pipe in the area of root issues, not the whole line.Quote:
Originally Posted by liv2ski
Im on the private side. But even when working on public-private jobs we generally would just time the trench and main replacement with the other ROW work done under the same CIP project (roadway widening, sidewalk widening, util capacity upgrades, etc). typically night work, plated during the day. Especially when doing fully private work, its open trench in the ROW as we have to open trench other utilities into the street which then triggers a grind/overlay so we say fuckit and open trench it all.Quote:
Originally Posted by civilcoconut
Every project is a little different, as is every jurisdiction.
Ah, this makes more sense. We would do the same if we were doing other work like that. Liv2ski- get a quote for conventional trench and replace versus CIPP. If you are responsible all the way to the main line a tench and replace can get really expensive if you want to replace the entire thing because you can get into paying for pavement, sidewalk etc. You should also get it video'd if you can so you can determine in advance how much needs to be lined or replaced. Last time I bought a house RotoRooter did one for me a and sent me the video for a couple hundred dollars.Quote:
Originally Posted by californiagrown
You also might want to inquire with the sewer district or city about who is responsible for this issue. Some municipalities are responsible to the clean out at the house, some are to the ROW and some the homeowner is responsible all the way to the mainline. Best case is they are responsible to the cleanout on your house and this doesn't cost you a dime. It's not common though.
@ticket, I'm two towns up now.[/QUOTE]
I’d go the temp sink route if need be and let the let the pros do their thing on a schedule that you can both agree on. I’ve got six units on Munjoy Hill and I would never do any finish work before the walls are ready to be closed up, that’s asking for trouble IMHO.
Timelines can be hard.
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The open trench is really not practical, as I would have to go through my neighbor's yard, whereas the reliner appears to be no fuss no muss.
After looking at his camera, as it went down my line, I went aaah fuck and told him let's do this. So yeah, hopefully in 3 weeks I never have to snake that fucker again in my lifetime.
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Thanks everyone for the thoughts on my leaky basement issue. Sorry for the slow response but for some reason I was expected to a bunch of actual work today (the nerve!).
Here's a (admittedly crappy) photo of what I'm dealing with: https://imgur.com/a/VYtbnTR. At work so grabbed it from Street View. You can see the whole area is above the sidewalk / street level. That's about a 70-foot driveway, and the top is maybe 3-4 feet above sidewalk level.
Leak in the basement is approximately where the red arrow is, roughly below that back window. We actually paved that area last summer and installed a heat pump there. Before paving, we had another 5 feet or so of flower bed, and we had about the same amount of leaking that we do now: up to maybe 4 cups after a real downpour, otherwise just a cup or two on wet days. I really thought the paving would fix things - the new slab is graded toward the driveway and has a lip at the downhill side so any rain that falls there runs to the driveway rather than into the flower bed.
The other suspect area is at the back of the house. There's a paved area behind the house / to the left of the garage that's graded towards the house. There's a channel drain like this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/NDS-Pro-...-764/203787428 running parallel to the sidewalk on the back edge of the house, so any water coming towards the house there should run into the drain - it's maybe 8' long. It's installed in concrete and looks like a professional / tight installation. It's under some external stairs and was pretty gunked up, so I cleaned that out a few weeks ago and tested it with a bucket. It seems to be working as expected: water is flowing in and flowing out one end to run down the driveway.
To get to specific questions...MattiG, yes, the indoor basement wall is dry and it's lath and plaster so if water was coming down through the wall I'm pretty sure we'd know about it. Water seems to be coming from one spot on the foundation wall close to the floor. As you can see from the photo, we have pretty good grade on the driveway, so the basement floor back there at the top of the driveway is probably about at the level of the sidewalk, maybe higher. It does happen only during / after rain. Thermal camera is a great thought, thanks for the offer of a loan - I'd definitely like to take you up on it.
Californiagrown - re high groundwater, I'm not sure, but this is the only spot where we've ever had leaking that wasn't obviously caused by a downspout. Given the house is above street level, I _think_ high groundwater isn't likely, but I'm not positive. The area right adjacent to the leak is under cement now but we could go down another 3-4 feet closer to the street and do that test hole. I'm a little annoyed that seems like such a good idea because it also seems like a PITA - the hole will be about 5' deep. I'm digging (no pun intended) your McGuyver solution too.
XXX-er - nope, no drain tile or sump pump, just an old ass (the house was built in 1913) poured cement foundation.
Fucking apostrophes, goddamn
when I went through this I simply found a hole drilled in the foundation that was not patched. whodathunk
foundation drain while it was open
when I went through this I simply found a hole drilled in the foundation that was not patched. whodathunk foundation drain while it was open
here in the swamp country they will cut the bottom out of a 5 gallon pail to use for the sump pump form, pour the basement slab around it and that is where the sump pump lives, mine even has a 115V plug in for the sump pump which for some reason was missing
its so fucking swampy here there are springs at the top of a hill while the town is muc lower
so building up on the hill land means shit, my buddy the sewer guy told me he would build french drains to deal with people's water proelms but it would just be deflected down hill to someone elses house
I’m going to be that guy….
It’s called concrete, people. Concrete. Not cement.
You call it cake. Not flour. It’s cake.
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I don't know man, is there really anything better than chocolate flour with chocolate frosting?
Okay, mea culpa. I actually know there's a difference, I can just never remember which is which
since we have a cement expert. I am getting my house stuccoed. It is getting below freezing at night. My contractor is using Quikrete Thermo Lube as an accelerant. The limitations say "Limitations: Contains Calcium Chloride. Donot use in areas that will be in contact with steelreinforcing." So the scratch coat is definitely going over chicken wire. Should I be worried? Seems like this is a pretty common practice with stucco. The job looks good so far. I am trusting Morales construction to do a good job.
The reason you don’t see a lot of PCP/stucco is cold climates is due to the challenges scheduling install around freezing temps… I bet your installer has had success with their method but I would be highly highly skeptical.
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I bet Morales is the guy that says, "that's how we've always done it."
this seems like a bad time of year to stucco a house in AK
Might try in here for info (not sure on paywall issues)
https://nwcb.connectedcommunity.org/...eSI6bnVsbH0%3D
Its been -26 aand today its 2, so around here contracters have it worked out so they are skiing or sledding or doing inside work or doing another job or even framing ... anything but a weather dependant outside job
"It’s called concrete, people. Concrete. Not cement."Thank you, thank you, thank you.
the house is in SW colorado. They have only placed the stucco when it has been above 40. They have also paid attention to where the sun is and have worked the areas when they are the warmest. They have also stopped work by 4 to give the concrete a couple of hours to cure. I have checked it each evening and morning and not seen any cracking. I am a bit concerned about the final acrylic coat. The stucco will sit for 3 days before the acrylic coat so hopefully any problems will show up. I was mostly wondering about the Thermo Lube degrading the chicken wire. But I will probably be long dead before that happens.
That process seems sketch to me with those temps, but I am just a specifier, not a trade expert. So that kind of testing the boundaries is beyond my experience.
I do hope it turns out well. Not trying to be a downer.
Looking for advice in seeking design help on a remodel. We recently purchased a home built in 1980. For the most part its all original except for a recent facelift to list to sell, so its been painted basic white and gray. We want to re-design the Kitchen and Primary bath and update the second full bath. We would also like to extend the living room on to the covered porch (no alteration to the existing roofline.) The only heat source is electric, so Im considering updating the electric ceiling heat and installing an air source heat pump for the main floor and basement. this is the piece that Im most keen to use a professional design firm to do proper energy modeling to size the system appropriately. I would really like to have a cohesive design plan before starting this project that can serve as a roadmap for a series of phases of work, starting with the main living areas, then the basement, and finally the exterior. What type of professional should I seek to help with the design phase of this project? Is this something you think a homeowner can/should GC? I am moving into the stay at home dad phase of life and it would like to have a project and a place to go 40 hours a week minimum this spring and summer.
We recently bought a house and it’s been really good to live there for a bunch of months as we figure out exactly how we’d want to remodel.
We bought and remodeled a house in 2006 and one of the things we absolutely would’ve changed is we put radiant heat in the upstairs and we never use it because the heat rises, and it’s just plenty warm upstairs, (as an example).
Perfect project for you. Altho it will compete with dad duties for the level of complexity involved. It does take a bunch of time to learn the right resources and then incorporate them thoughtfully.
Given that it’s a partial reno of an existing structure that you are not doing a full shell update on, you will not be able to do a fully achieve a high performance building. So consider in your research how air / vapor flow will be affected by the various decisions. Rightsizing the hvac will need to consider the remaining leaky house volumes.
I think you know enough. try not to move pipes much and batch your subs. I paid for an interior designer but probably wouldn’t again, and your taste is impeccable.
A carpenter bud is working on a 100+ year old store on main street that is being reno'ed for a new MJ store, buddy tells me the further into it they get the more it became obvious they should have just knocked it down but the sunk cost means s they gotta keep going, the new owners want to open on 4/20 the carpenter sez probably not, the owners will have sell a lot of reeefer to pay for it