Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

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Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

https://www.sashco.com/products/mor-flexx/

This is the best one I've used. Surgically tape everything. Either Frog Tape Orange or Vinyl Stucco Tape on the brick. What some YouTubes on Siliconized Caulk Tooling. The Windex trick works. Practice. You can't fix it easily if it looks like dog shit. [/Contractor that doesn't let anyone touch the caulk gun besides the painter and they always have to come back and fix shit]

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Silicone mortar caulk. Wow. Never heard of it. Very cool.

Will it match the existing mortar? There’s the rub
Even matching mortar to mortar isn’t easy if you go that route.

Tile grout has so many colors the match would be easier. It’s going to crack at some point however.

You could go back to the wood idea and cut around the hearth the same width as the floor boards and picture frame it. Scribing the hearth ends of each new board before you rip them to final width. Unless it’s not that irregular.

Nothing well ever match. You have to just deal with that.

I'd be half inclined to cut the wood flooring back a bit to make the gap a bit bigger. Then install a piece of contrasting wood as an accent of sorts around the border of the hearth. Leave an ~1/8" gap to the masonry and fill with whatever color silicone will look decent. Or grout it if you're not worried about wood expansion.

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Originally Posted by toast2266

I'd be half inclined to cut the wood flooring back a bit to make the gap a bit bigger. Then install a piece of contrasting wood as an accent of sorts around the border of the hearth. Leave an ~1/8" gap to the masonry and fill with whatever color silicone will look decent. Or grout it if you're not worried about wood expansion.

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Agreed. I think this would look the most intentional, but maybe tricky saw work (for me anyway).

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Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

https://www.sashco.com/products/mor-flexx/

This is the best one I've used. Surgically tape everything. Either Frog Tape Orange or Vinyl Stucco Tape on the brick. What some YouTubes on Siliconized Caulk Tooling. The Windex trick works. Practice. You can't fix it easily if it looks like dog shit. [/Contractor that doesn't let anyone touch the caulk gun besides the painter and they always have to come back and fix shit]

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FTW. There's an Ace locally that sells it. My wife is very good at caulking etc. Precision work is her specialty--after 25 years she's shutting down her stained glass shop (Tiffany style lampshades of her own design.) She's replacing the clear silicone caulk she used before which looked fine but is failing after decades. Thank you.

As expected there are no gaps where the end grain of the flooring butts up to the sides of the hearth. Only at the front where it joint is subject to width expansion of the flooring.

Sanded caulk or find a good background caulk color and add some sand


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Old goats wife is skilled on caulk

That’s a keeper

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Originally Posted by mattig

Agreed. I think this would look the most intentional, but maybe tricky saw work (for me anyway).

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With a track saw I think it wouldn't be too bad. Would just need some careful work with the multitool to finish the ends of the cut.

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Originally Posted by toast2266

With a track saw I think it wouldn't be too bad. Would just need some careful work with the multitool to finish the ends of the cut.

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Track saw would be money if there's access. I was thinking toe kick saw.

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Originally Posted by Core Shot

Silicone mortar caulk. Wow. Never heard of it. Very cool.

Will it match the existing mortar? There’s the rub
Even matching mortar to mortar isn’t easy if you go that route.

Tile grout has so many colors the match would be easier. It’s going to crack at some point however.

You could go back to the wood idea and cut around the hearth the same width as the floor boards and picture frame it. Scribing the hearth ends of each new board before you rip them to final width. Unless it’s not that irregular.

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https://www.mapei.com/ca/en-ca/produ...il/keracaulk-s

I used this ^^ stuff between the tub and the 1st row of tiles of my tub/ shower, it seemed easy enough to get a good color match

tube sez it matches all unsanded grout colors

Attachment 506976

https://youtu.be/vfthzU3V4zo?si=LYQAjqQrVggqW4nR

Attachment 506977

Someone had their eyes closed trying to hit that joist.

Track saw...maybe with challenges

Toe kick saw...makes me thing you never used one

Caulking a 1/2 gap? Good luck. Send me a picture in 3months.

But yeah, post a picture for me unsolicitated comment

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Originally Posted by Mazderati

Attachment 506976

https://youtu.be/vfthzU3V4zo?si=LYQAjqQrVggqW4nR

Attachment 506977

Someone had their eyes closed trying to hit that joist.

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And weren't they supposed to have the paper side up?

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Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

Toe kick saw...makes me thing you never used one

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Once. It wasn't pleasant. What's the play? Oscillating/multi tool?

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Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

Caulking a 1/2 gap? Good luck. Send me a picture in 3months.

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What happens in 3 months?

Assuming you can tool caulk grout to look good, a 1/2" bead will crack and shrink. It's not the product for the job.

What's the play? It depends. That's the game. Homebuilding and remodeling isn't this one size fits all type of this. Customers get this wrong all the time. How you gonna do it? No idea, but I'll figure it out. That's why you are paying me to be here and get it done.

But yeah, a laser straight finish cut in a restricted space in hardwood is gonna be challenging.

EIFS specs 1/2" gaps @ all penetrations.
Here's a 1/2" caulk bead @ 240 monthsAttachment 507099

Dirty, but no shrinkage or cracking

Do you remember what product? I kinda gave a short cut answer. Yes, there is shit that squirts out of a tube and will span a 1/2 gap and stand the test of time. Big Stretch and Log Jam for example.

Looks like somewhat did a good job on your crib.

If I was gonna complicate things and require a laser straight cut line with minimal side distance, I'd get a mini circular saw and set up a straight edge beside my line and hold the little saw to that edge for a straight line. Getting any other power tool close enough to the raised hearth will be likely unpossible. A mini blade could get within an inch, maybe better.
Jockeying a toe cut saw vertically would be impressive.

I like Sashco stuff and find working with chinking and that stuff FoGo said, is pretty easy and it's durable. I use a brick tuck pointer trowel and a water spray bottle to finish the material smoothly.

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Originally Posted by tuco

EIFS specs 1/2" gaps @ all penetrations.
Here's a 1/2" caulk bead @ 240 monthsAttachment 507099

Dirty, but no shrinkage or cracking

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LOL when do they do that? Fucking hacks never do that shit right.

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Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain

LOL when do they do that? Fucking hacks never do that shit right.

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True dat! Weren't most EIFS failures due to shit installation? Even the hard coat guys around here just stucco everything.

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Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

True dat! Weren't most EIFS failures due to shit installation? Even the hard coat guys around here just stucco everything.

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Did someone say shit installation? Properly installed EIFS is an exception around here.

Attachment 507138

Attachment 507139

In the commercial world we see [emoji637]”+ caulk joints all the time, sometimes even up to [emoji638]-[emoji639]”…

Sure a cheap tube from HD won’t span that. But a proper professional level product, backed correctly, prepped correctly, will last.


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Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

Do you remember what product? I kinda gave a short cut answer. Yes, there is shit that squirts out of a tube and will span a 1/2 gap and stand the test of time. Big Stretch and Log Jam for example.

Looks like somewhat did a good job on your crib.

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Actually, that's my Mom's house in CH.
Big Stretch is good. But for most critical exterior joints Quad or Quad Max will way outperform it.
Everything in those pictures was installed by my brother and myself in 2004.
Caulk was BASF MasterSeal NP1. But longevity starts with a well constructed joint

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Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain

LOL when do they do that? Fucking hacks never do that shit right.

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That's why sometimes ya just gotta do shit yerself:smile:

Actually, I work on multimillion dollar 'estates' on the regular. Shocking lack of true craftsmanship abounds even in this world

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Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain

Attachment 507138

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wondering how that window weeps...

Do you use the Quad Max as backer then the NP1 over the top.

I'm a trim nerd. I just make the inside look pretty. Exterior details are not my stong point.

Box Cars...you refering to weep holes that drain the track? I usually only see those on sliders and the drain to the interior....or something else?

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Originally Posted by ::: :::

wondering how that window weeps...

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Behind the rock veneer where it gets soaked up by the OSB sheeting.

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Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

Do you use the Quad Max as backer then the NP1 over the top.

I'm a trim nerd. I just make the inside look pretty. Exterior details are not my stong point.

Box Cars...you refering to weep holes that drain the track? I usually only see those on sliders and the drain to the interior....or something else?

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No, that will create a 3-way bond. The result will be cracking because caulk is designed to stretch 2 dimensionally. Backer rod will break that 3 way bond and also force the caulk into better contact w/ the sides of the joint. We used backer rod.

That 1/2" gap on the EIFS enables the edge of the foam board to be base coated, which actually is the waterproofing coat

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Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles

Box Cars...you refering to weep holes that drain the track? I usually only see those on sliders and the drain to the interior....or something else?

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not all windows have them, but most decent windows have a weep system
that's why we seal jambs & head but not sills typically

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Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain

Behind the rock veneer where it gets soaked up by the OSB sheeting.

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it's possible they drain to the cavity & stay in front of the WRB; or that these just don't have weeps

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Originally Posted by tuco

That 1/2" gap on the EIFS enables the edge of the foam board to be base coated, which actually is the waterproofing coat

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there it is
hopefully no cavities where the two casements mull together

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Originally Posted by ::: :::

it's possible they drain to the cavity & stay in front of the WRB; or that these just don't have weeps

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What WRB?? ;) Refer to picture 2 above. Whole front of the house is going to get peeled.

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Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain

What WRB?? ;) Refer to picture 2 above. Whole front of the house is going to get peeled.

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There should be a weep and a drip edge @ that transition

Kitchen cabinet doors are getting a little worn. Pictured is the worst of them, the effects of a decade above an electric teakettle.

Any tricks for sanding other than using a block to keep things flat? I’ve never loved the results of brushed/rolled poly and don’t have a sprayer. Any experience with spray cans of polyurethane? At ten bucks a can seems like a cheap experiment unless it’s total garbage.

The cheap airless sprayers on Amazon actually work really well…


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Originally Posted by nickwm[emoji638

[emoji637];[emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji639]][emoji637][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji638][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji639]]The cheap airless sprayers on Amazon actually work really well…


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You mean like a Wagner-style, HVLP gun?

Ordering engineered hardwood flooring for the second floor (same as what's on the first floor).

Thoughts on stapling vs. nailing?

Use the spec'd fastener. Usually engineered is a narrow crown stapler. Use a gun like this https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-HPT-Pn...435181218&th=1

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

You mean like a Wagner-style, HVLP gun?

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Negative. Get an airless. Cordless need two batteries (can’t get caught mid job). The graco is the bomb. But for one job the cheap Amazon should work.
There are corded versions harbor freight has one for $69

Get the clean and lube fluid for after the job otherwise it rusts inside. Pump armor.

Degrease!
Sanding block (unless you’re going to bare wood, then use orbital first)
Stain as needed
Airless spray. 220scuff between coats.

Easy job if you can lay them all out in a warm garage.

Go with the grain.


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I've been getting good results with Minwax wipe on poly on my furniture. The coats are very thin so a lot of coats needed. For a job that big I'd be tempted to spray but I have no personal experience.

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Originally Posted by nickwm21

In the commercial world we see [emoji637]”+ caulk joints all the time, sometimes even up to [emoji638]-[emoji639]”…

Sure a cheap tube from HD won’t span that. But a proper professional level product, backed correctly, prepped correctly, will last.


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my neighbor did his 100+ yr old log house with Perma-Chink which does not seem like a very culturaly appropriate name for a productbut buddy did some very wide joints,

as for prep he just went right over the moss that had been stuffed between the logs 100yrs ago








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