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Huge purchase: red handlebar tape and blue handlebar tape. Amazon cut rate stuff for my commuter singlespeed.
Ok, need help. See photo below. Blue tape is trash. Need to remove and replace. Want to use a red and blue combo. How should I do it? Need ideas. One side red the other blue, top blue bottom red, braided, striped etc. What’s your vote?
Attachment 387410
Clearly, you need a blue/red/yellow tri-braid.
Whoa. That looks a lot like a GT TT bike that I ride for a while - even the carbon fork and the aero cut out seat tube. Is that 650c or 700c?Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
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700c. It’s a Santa Cruz Roadster. There’s a cool as shit thing they did - maybe only for a few years: it has replaceable dropouts. The ones I have on there in the photo are regular horizontal, but I have another set that are vertical for fixie. Cool idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by sethschmautz
However, the internal seat post clamp sucks. It’s always slipping just a little. Annoying.
Loctite green (sleeve) compound, perhaps?
I’ve been using molten speed wax since July on the mtn bike and road bike because of that data. So far, pretty amazing. My mtb is currently filthy but the drivetrain is still performing great. Maybe 150 miles since the last wax? And not getting grease on yourself all the time is a nice bonus.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
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Wow. Carrying 2 spare whole chains and changing them on the trail rather than carrying a 2oz bottle of lube and reapplying it every 40 miles or so must be the highest expression of dedication to chain waxing ever seen. Chapeau, sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by XtrPickels
The 12s XT chain on my Ripley has 3000 miles of dry riding using de-aerosolized NoToil moto lube and it still hasn't hit .5%. I guess I'm losing 2 or 3 watts but I'm ok with that.
Chain lube discussions are the locusts of Sprockets. They just keep coming back on a regular schedule.
Huh. Why didn’t I think of that? Might be worth a shot.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Hadn’t heard of No Toil before. SDS says it’s vegetable oil and fatty alcohol, so basically margarine?Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
Anyway, yes I’m aware that lube discussions pop up on a regular basis (and that’s been happening long before TGR came along).
The big news to me was that there’s finally structured wear testing being done, so we can now have an actual fact based discussion rather than one based on opinion, or varying experiences based off of different use conditions.
It’s pretty shocking to see the huge range of wear results, especially since testing has been pretty much limited to lubes that have a pretty good reputation and would have many users who would swear by their performance.
Also, there have been some new lubes introduced within the past year or two that are significantly outperforming what was previously available (Silca Drip, UFO Drip, Tru Tungsten All Weather, Absolute Black Graphen) so it’s not purely rehashing a previous discussion, there really are advances being made, and proper testing to compare performance.
Regarding watt savings, the lowest friction lubes - with some small variation between lubes - are also the ones that show the least wear. Basically because the extra power being absorbed by the less efficient lubes is being used to wear away metal.
That MSDS is likely the filter oil, which is what NoToil is known for (i have used it on dirt bike air filters for 15 years). I'm using their chain lube, but I transfer it to a regular drip bottle bc the spray can just make a huge mess on the bicycle chain. It ends up as a semi-wet kind of lube that stays on for 50 miles of Tahoe dust and only gets a little dirty.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
You're right that there have been real advancements and data in the chain lube world of late, but I'm still not sufficiently dedicated to saving literally 2-4 watts or making my chain last 20% longer to remove it from the bicycle every 2-3 rides, deep clean it, and then wax it again.
Attachment 387454Attachment 387455Quote:
Originally Posted by climberevan
It’s carrier, vegetable oil, and hydrogenated oil (fatty alcohol). I’m joking with the margarine thing, I’m sure this is a bit more sophisticated than that. Also, in some of the early friction testing olive oil performed quite well, beating the majority of dedicated lubes - but that was just short term friction testing in a clean environment, didn’t look at longevity or how quickly it would pick up contamination.
The lubes I mentioned above are all next generation drip lubes, so no need for the removing the chain rigamarole. That’s really where the biggest innovation has happened recently, and they appear to be a significant improvement over Squirt and Smoove. And significant here means much more than a 10-20% increase in drivetrain life.
Most of my Klein Adroit (‘90\91?) was held together with loctite green. Bb spindle, fork/bearings, etc. it mostly worked! I had loctite and huffy stickers on it for fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
I would try some carbon paste, it grips and stops squeaksQuote:
Originally Posted by EWG
On the advice of a train mechanic who used the green to hold in sleeves & bearings on locomotives I used the green on a creaking square taper spindle / race facecrank arms, it stopped the creaking but it was like epoxying the crank arms on, some serious holding power, I had to use a lever extension on the park puller to get them off and i was pretty worried about breaking something
using it on a frame/ seat post makes me nervous
Agreed, it would be a bitch to remove, but I was able to no problem on the Klein. It wouldn’t move, though. Agreed that carbon paste *might* be worth trying first. But that stuff is very hard to clean up, too.
On a commuter fixie/clown bike, that will never have the seat height ever adjusted. Go ahead and bond it solid.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Try a bit of climbing chalk on the seatpost.
Kiddo's new whip, 2019 Rocky Altitude Alloy 70 XS. $2500, which in this market feels like a steal. Should break even or close to it when I sell his Clash. He doesn't even know yet. He's not quite big enough for it yet so we're keeping it a secret and going to drop it at Xmas.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2e7c1be817.jpg
Awesome. Great looking bike. He must be super stoked.
That’s sick Dan!
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I'm offended that you just called it a clown bike. The fact that it makes me a clown isn't offensive as we all know I'm a clown. It's just that the bike is nicer than that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Good ideas here, thanks. Will report back. It loses about an inch every 8 hours of commuting.
Sick bike DTM, lucky kid!!
Based on comments in the tire thread I got myself a set of Spesh Butcher and Eliminator, both 29 x 2.3 grid trail, one in T9 and one in T7. First ride will be on wet roots in France, will make for an interesting change of pace after 6 months of UT dust...
Couldn't stomach the cost of Maxxis anymore and was a bit disappointed that the DHF barely made it 500 miles before getting all squirrely when braking hard. Not even going to mention the Dissector which feels like worn semi-slick at this point. I'd consider it again if I could find a dual compound DD version but that seems unlikely.
Mud season parts purchasing has commenced: Bought a STFU bike chain thing, because IDK if it's the Microshift, or this frame, but I've never had so much chain slap in my life. We'll see if it helps.
Also snagged some of the Miles Racing brake pads, because why not?
It's fun. It's really, really fun. It climbs better than I thought it would, and allows me to get weirder going downhill than I ever have. For my (pretty shoddy and slow) riding style, it's a real hoot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
He doesn't know yet...so I am guessing he is not. But probably will be soon! Lucky kid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
As for the theme of this thread....just ordered an X01 B-bolt to replace the stock one on my new GX der.
Took off the xc tires
Attachment 388192
Vittorias were pretty toast after the spring/summer and I already had the dhf so I went and put that on plus an aggressor today.
^^^ proper alignment of branding on rim and tire, props for that. Had to peel off my rim decals as I kept fucking it up and my OCD would flare up.
Oh, what a day... what a lovely [new bike] day!
S3 Smash
Lyrik Ultimate
Elevensix
Enduro 305 wheels
XT all around
Attachment 388333
Shiny and chrome
Attachment 388335
Witness me
Attachment 388336
Smashing!
Beautiful bike. That is basically the exact build I’ve been lusting over recently. Congrats.Quote:
Originally Posted by grabtindy
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Best movie I’ve ever seen, Fury Road. That and District 9 are movies I could watch everyday.
Order is in for my new gravel rig, Spesh Crux. Whoop-Whoop
Our shop just got an account with one-up and got an order of pedals. I'm torn as to what color pedals to buy and how many of my bikes neeeeed new pedals.
There are only 8 colours, so one of each, cause how many bikes do you have?Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaver
Oh fuck, at least 10. About 20 in the house if you include my wife's and kids bikes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Talk me out of (or into) these upgrades:
Whisky No 7 stem -> Enve Mountain stem
Truvativ Stylo cranks -> XX1 carbon cranks
GX Eagle 10-52 for XX1 Eagle 10-52
GX AXS Eagle rear der for XX1 AXS
what is the best prioritization of these?
Whisky No 7 stem -> Enve Mountain stem
$25- 138g vs $205 94g
Truvativ Stylo cranks -> XX1 carbon cranks
$265- 555g vs $536 490g Upgrades to hollow carbon fiber arms with one-piece spindle+insert, with additional machining inside spindle and on chainring to save more weight.
GX Eagle 10-52 for XX1 Eagle 10-52
[B]$220- 448g vs $430 360g Upgrades to a one-piece hollow machined steel main cluster with alloy 52-tooth cog pressed onto the back
GX AXS Eagle rear der for XX1 AXS
Is this a GX Mechanical vs an upgrade to AXS shifting?
what is the best prioritization of these?
it’s AXS to AXS; GX AXS to XX1 AXS
The stem to stem and crank to crank is only weight difference (and money). I'd have a hard time believing anyone can feet/tell the difference in stem performance between the two.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
That alloy crank is still decent, and still has the advantages of a direct mount chainring, so no performance upgrade in my opinion.
The XX1 cassette is way lighter, and I feel it shifts crisper. But its a wear item that is really expensive, so there is that to keep in mind.
The XX1 deraillure cage is stronger (less flex, less chance to bend out of spec').
My money would be:
1st priority an XX1 cassette with an XX1 chain
2nd priority XX1 derailleur
3rd priority XX1 crank (to move to future bikes, I have 7yo XX1 11s cranks that i still use)
4th priority ENVE stem for the bling, unless you really need to change geo/length/reach. Or you find a killer closeout deal on one.
I just run Kalloy Uno stems anymore, cheap, light, and strong. (~90 grams for a 35x35 with ti bolts)
Cheap enough that I have a few to sort out new bikes easily. They go for under $20.
Attachment 389531
No one has stopped me in the parking lot and denigrated me and my bike for my stem choice!
Sick. Which one did you get? I tried ordering a non S-works frameset the day they were announced and was told I could maybe get one in July if I put money down now and 5-10 people canceled their orders because they were already oversold.Quote:
Originally Posted by buttahflake
If all the stuff is pretty new and currently on a bike…I would be tempted to do the der first (if you are gonna do it at all). You can probably sell a GX AXS upgrade kit to someone for good money.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
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