Attachment 506469
proffeshinal
put up a sign demo and take it to the dump
no one knows the difference
Printable View
Attachment 506469
proffeshinal
put up a sign demo and take it to the dump
no one knows the difference
Thanks. Come visit and ride bikes again. I'll be on the slope of the mountain now, 2400ft of vert out the door.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
For the rest of the peanuts in the gallery... inspection was last week and turned out better than I had expected. House was built in '74. Inspector said the attic is pristine, no sign of moisture ever, bone dry cellulose and clear straight fir. Could blow in a little more insulation but dude was like, "I never see this, good find." Electrical is just ok, wires are copper with decent sheath, outdated panel but at least it has breakers... but I'll put in a modern 200A panel and circuits for welder, e-car charger, rooftop solar, and run a few new drops for garage bench. Modern windows on one side, originals on the other with a couple issues. Solid foundation and slabs, mediocre siding, needs new gutters. Probably lots more to find once we're in there in a couple weeks.
Just flipping you shit, while also transferring some of my present trauma as a coping mechanism.
All good. My prior place was built in '51... I'm at least a little familiar with the fuckery of old houses.
This is less of a home improvement and more of an outdoor improvement question: I just got done building a paver patio that's partially dug into a hillside. The downhill side is 35 inches above grade, no railing required per code but definitely not safe for wandering small humans. The wall is 30 ft long. Debating what to put up/what will hold considering that the downhill wall is free-standing. If I sink anchor bolts into the capstone for fence post brackets, will the brackets hold or will they just lift the capstone and adhered wall bricks? The alternative is boring down into wall bricks/in-fill and placing steel pipe that I would then have to build posts around.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
I dont deal with single family residential, but 30" drop requires fall protection for anything i deal with (multifamily, commercial, retail, townhomes, etc). You might want to doublecheck that code you're referencing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
Nothing will be very robust without some kind of foundation (not just bolting to capstone)... not that you necessarily need it robust. If you can afford to "lose" a little bit of the useable squarefootage, i would just line that drop off area with a long bench, or a mix of benches/seating and skinny 18-24" tall planters.
Maybe I'm thinking of the minimum for required engineering...Quote:
Originally Posted by californiagrown
Anywho, yeah planters would be a good alternative. You mean paver benches?
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Sub 4' wall usually doesnt require engineering or a permit... unless there is surcharge from something important (like a house or other permitted structure).Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
You can do paver benches, or wood ones, or metal ones, or fiberglass, or concrete. Tons of different products and designs depending on your budget and aesthetic. If wood would work well, maybe something like this:
https://www.foreverredwood.com/bench...ers-combo.html
Something like this gives a rough idea of what you would be trying to accomplish.
Attachment 506525
We used a mix of black square planters for a privacy screen on our patio. Something like these are pretty economical:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veradek-...-2PK/316385610
Bushes. Or benches. Or if you want a rail dig out in in front of the wall. If you have wind loads drilling into the capstone isn’t good. Unless you are thinking of an open railing. That could work.
And yes. For residential. Outdoor drops and fall zones aren’t in the code.
Yet. Give them time.
But there’s also common sense. And sometimes insurance renewal inspections demand such things
Just my two cents, but if the goal is to protect small humans from themselves, I'd want backs on the benches so that they don't just become a jumping platform adding height to the 36" drop.Quote:
Originally Posted by californiagrown
YMMV, of course, depending on where the small humans in question land on acrobatic ability, size, and instinct for self preservation--I'd be far more concerned about my son than my daughter on the setup pictured.
You want it easy to jump off, but hard to fall off. IMO for my 3 yr old lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum
Backs would be much safer for sure
I lived with this deck for 20 years and never lost a rug rat or anyone else over the side. It did make an excellent start platform for the 2 curve luge track in the winter.
Attachment 506540
Attachment 506541
^^ yup that's pretty much what I'm rockin' but just a foot taller. The bushes are actually a nice sort of barrier too I hadn't thought of that
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Interesting. Pretty surprised that the City made them change it knowing that they would take the $160k financial hit... and its a small enough discrepancy that exactly no-one would have called them on it. IMO, City should have done 1 of 2 things: Either ignore the issue, and not put the problem into writing... or, issue a variance to allow the higher roof (this would be the official CYA route, though this could have involved HEX and public comment).Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
pretty hamfisted of the city
i do also wonder if the owner also blundered & pissed someone off enough to provoke this public airing of grievances
#ownyerfail
[i do find it hard to believe the arch didn't already know this dimensional discrepancy & since he doesn't seem to be sued yet, i'm guessing the design/owner side knew up front]
Eh, exact requirements can sometimes be up to interpretation (how to measure average existing and final grade can be fudged in different ways, and also calculated differently in various jurisdictions, building height can be measured to different parts of the roof in different jurisdictions and even interpreted differently from reviewer to reviewer int eh same city) and they might have gotten away with this exact calculation on previous jobs, but new personnel had a different interpretation?Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
IME, when an approved design is found to not be in compliance after it has been constructed, it is allowed to remain as long as it meets the spirit of the code and/or does not cause any detrimental impacts to the public. $160k is a big chunk of change to just voluntarily shell out to fix a minor building code issue on a single home. I bet the City manager is PISSED!
Eh...the are suing. They haven't gotten the money. Frequently the municipalities are held harmless.
We build to max height all the time. It is express to final grade. So the dirt work gets manipulated to make it happen.
You kinda need to know the particulars of the error to know who to point the finger at. Unfortunately, the property owner is ultimately responsible for building to code and the municipality interprets the code.
Sent from a 6 m/s face melting thermal
Moving from Portland to Lake O? Don't let the door hit your ass on the way out. See you this summer as we SUP Lake OswegoQuote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
You still in Washington? Code is over 30 inches.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskier
[edit: never mind. I see CG already said that]
Throw down 5" of soft mulch and call it good?
That Oregon roof story reads like a rich couple who have tons of coin and made the changes quick and spitefully with the plan of suing and getting media attention.
Who the fuck doesn’t ask for a variance before all that?
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Most variances require HEX approval and public comment. Meaning a few months at least, likely delaying the whole project months. This would have been a variance, not a deviation (instant approval from AHJ).Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Could they have fixed this by temporarily adding a foot of mulch around the house? Where's the roof height measured from?
What’s “HEX”?Quote:
Originally Posted by californiagrown;[emoji[emoji6[emoji640
That’s the kind of thinking that will get you paid!Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_pdx;[emoji[emoji6[emoji640
[regrading might actually work for them]
My 1930 house has about a 1/2 gap between the brick hearth and the narrow, thin strip oak flooring. Suggestions for what to fill the gap with. Mortar? Tile grout? Something else. My wife wants to use brown tinted silicone caulk. Bad idea I think, at least for looks. There is a little cold air coming up through the gap from the crawl space.
3/4" quarter round trim?
If it's really 1/2 inch, maybe you could trim down some flooring to fit. I would go with a contrasting color like walnut. You might also be able to get some pencil tile in there like this: https://www.wayfair.com/home-improve...-mxem1151.html
Mask off hearth and floor. Spray foam gap to seal air leak, trim cured foam flush, then oak 1/4 round or shoe mould or fillet strips stained to match.
Or rip/scribe some oak flooring to fit and glue it in there.
Yep, nothing says "hack" like a half inch bead of caulk.
As mentioned, trim it with something and if you can match don't. Either was backer rod of fiberglass insulation underneath (they sell small packets for windows).
You can get "mortar caulk" is a couple of colors but my experience is that it is challenging to tool and is tough to make look good inside.
I fight this issue all the time trying to figure out how to trade coordinate hardwood flooring and rock of the fireplace wall.
Info: is the hearth raised or at the same level as the floor?
Lots of small bricks?Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
OG needs to post some pictures which would lead to better solutions.
Yep. Wood trim.
Problem is 1930 oak floors are probably quarter sawn. Stock quarter round could have funky grain. But if you find straight grain that would work.
Aren’t you a woodworker? Get straight grain stock and run it through a router to make quarter round or the profile you want. Stain to match and varnish.
Oh. And caulk that gap first to keep the wife draft free.
Sorry for not being more clear. The hearth is flush with the wood. So what I need is something to fill the gap, not cover it. I'm thinking either mortar or grout to match the mortar between the bricks but I thought I'd see if there were other options. My wife and have worked with both. This is a job for her. She's neater. The gap is too irregular for a wood infill strip.
https://www.sashco.com/products/mor-flexx/
This is the best one I've used. Surgically tape everything. Either Frog Tape Orange or Vinyl Stucco Tape on the brick. What some YouTubes on Siliconized Caulk Tooling. The Windex trick works. Practice. You can't fix it easily if it looks like dog shit. [/Contractor that doesn't let anyone touch the caulk gun besides the painter and they always have to come back and fix shit]
We've used neoprene foam strip in similar situations - gaps with irregular width, can't caulk or use a scribe strip.
something like this - https://rubbersheetwarehouse.com/col...nt=21540264579
And definitely use a backerod if you're going to caulk a gap that large. The backer isn't for taking up space, it's a 3-way bond breaker.
Caulk stretches 2 dimensionally. If it bonds to the back surface, when everything starts moving, your
caulk will crack eventually.