PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

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Originally Posted by Bojangles Mgillicutty

My stoned shop friend mounted these and after a year i just noticed one side of one binding is about 2 mm above the surface of the ski. Gave it a turn with the screwdriver but no joy, glued up. Can i ignore this or is my binding gonna snap when I ski it

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Yer gonna die! But seriously I would not leave that as-is. Try loosening the screw, if you can get it to move, then try tightening. If you are able to get the binding sitting flat on the top sheet, great. I would then remove the screw, swirl a little glue of your choice around inside the hole to coat the threads, then carefully reinstall the screw in the existing threads. That way you're water tight again.

If you're having trouble getting the screw to move, carefully heat the screw head with a soldering/wood burning iron in 15s increments until it will turn.

If you can get the screw to turn but you can't snug the binding up against the top sheet, you might need to pull the entire heel to make sure the topsheet is flat.

your post gave me the confidence to absolutely twist the shit outta that screw with my torx, got it loose, jizzed wood glue on it and reinserted, if you don't hear back from me means i died

I have what I hope is a simple screw length question. I picked up a pair of used Marker F10 Tours for my kid and the screw lengths are a tad wonky. Question: except for the small screw under the touring lever, are the other 8 screws the same length? Or, are the 4 toe screws different from the 4 heel screws? Thanks very much!

Screw all scews as far as they'll go through the binding holes. Then compare how much engagement they have on the bottom of the bindings. Move screws around until you have equal engagement length on all. That should tell you which screws go where.

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Originally Posted by dschane

I have what I hope is a simple screw length question. I picked up a pair of used Marker F10 Tours for my kid and the screw lengths are a tad wonky. Question: except for the small screw under the touring lever, are the other 8 screws the same length? Or, are the 4 toe screws different from the 4 heel screws? Thanks very much!

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All 18 screws on the F10 are, or should be, the same head style and length.

Got the pivots mounted with inserts, went OK, will update will full story once done. Getting ready to do the alpinists. I thought there was a video of how to mount tech bindings in the method that’s always talked about on here, where you put one screw in the toe, snap your boot in, etc. but I’m not finding it. Anyone know where it is?


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Originally Posted by NW_SKIER

G flex or comparable slow set epoxy is number one.

Drill your regular 3.6 or 4.1 holes first and mount the bindings with the wood screws. It is way easier to fill those little holes if your mount is off for some reason. Then unmount and drill with your insert bit. It is imperative that you are plumb as fuck when drilling for the insert. It drastically improves swapping bindings when that is dialed.

Thoroughly clean your inserts with generous amounts of brake cleaner and let them dry completely first. The milling process leaves oil residue that the epoxy won't adhere too very well or for very long.

Take extra care when tapping that you mark the tap depth and are aware of what the bottom of the hole feels like so you don't go too far.

Do not get epoxy inside the inserts. If you do, thread a screw in and out wiping it off a few times. Be careful to not overfill the holes either. Too much epoxy will bubble your bases when you screw the insert into the bottom of the hole.

As others mentioned, partially mount your bindings while the epoxy cures. Do not tighten all the way!

Post pics of the final product. I once inserted skis for Ions and Dukes. There were a shit ton of holes. It's a process. Don't rush it.

Good luck.

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Plumb as fuck. Also, when using the insert thread tool to make the threads for the insert remember to stay PLUM AS FUCK.

Thanks.


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Originally Posted by carlh

Anyone have a template for a protector attack binding? Have some incoming to keep the wife’s acls intact.

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I'm pretty sure the pattern of Protectors is the same as Tyrolia demos

PasF

Hella yeah

Stickers

Mounted my own fucking inserts. Long story short, forgot the tools at home. No tap or the right drill bit so I used a 1/4” drill bit with a collar and didn’t tap. We’ll see if I die

My initial plan was to also put in inserts for alpinists as a do it all travel ski. But I had the idea yesterday that if I have inserts, I can take the bindings off and fit 2 pair of skis in the travel bag. May go this route instead. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1ba37d2398.jpg


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Mounted my daughters new setup. Couldn’t find a template so eyeballed it. First alpine mount - tele is easier!
Attachment 477383

Attachment 477412

Went for a walk, did not golf.

Attachment 477447

Attachment 477532

Upgraded clamps

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Originally Posted by Spyderjon

All 18 screws on the F10 are, or should be, the same head style and length.

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Perfect, thanks.

All-righty then ...

In another thread, Terry @alpinord posted a video of his shiny new tool for doing inserts with.

I've used every possible method in the some 200-300 inserts I've installed, and Terry's brilliant, simple, obvious (after the fact, of course - everything is obvious) tool beats them all, and not by a small amount.

I had settled on the double-nut on an M5 screw technique, although with some core types, the screw wants to back out as you're extracting the screw. The key benefit of this insertion method (unlike the BF insertion tool) is that you can keep the insert vertical. This is not trivial.

Every step along the way, there's an opportunity for tilting the insert, and the last (insertion) step can undo a perfectly vertically drilled and tapped insert. This is the key problem I have with the BF insertion tool. Note, that I fabricated my own version of the BF tool from a flat-bladed screwdriver, but I applied the same principle, so I'm confident in stating this.

Terry's tool improves on this "double nut" technique, and not by a small amount.

If you're pondering purchase of any insertion tool, I implore you to head on over to this link on the Slidewrite page: https://www.slidewright.com/dp/slide...allation-tool/

Here's the video Terry posted, followed by my most recent job on a pair of Praxis BCs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9yIQ4SFETA

https://galibierdesign.com/images/ot...sert_Mount.jpg

... Thom

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Originally Posted by PeachesNCream

I thought there was a video of how to mount tech bindings in the method that’s always talked about on here, where you put one screw in the toe, snap your boot in, etc. but I’m not finding it. Anyone know where it is?


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I don't know if there is a vid but I have posted the method from when I asked my buddy the ski store owner how to mount tech bindings he told me

- 1st mount the heel dead center
- mount the toe by one screw only
- click boot in to binding and drill at least one more screw
- the boot should drop nicely into the heel pins

this will also work for frame bindings where you want the frame to drop cleanly into the heelpiece

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

I don't know if there is a vid but I have posted the method from when I asked my buddy the ski store owner how to mount tech bindings he told me

- 1st mount the heel dead center
- mount the toe by one screw only
- click boot in to binding and drill at least one more screw
- the boot should drop nicely into the heel pins

this will also work for frame bindings where you want the frame to drop cleanly into the heelpiece

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This is the perfect method, and I adopted this technique a few years ago, thanks you your first posting this.

The only reason I start off with a template is to dial in the fore/aft mounting offset for the heel & toe piece (one hole located for both heel and toe). From that point forward, it's a matter of completing the heel mount (one hole at a time), followed by the toe (again - one hole at a time).

Since adopting this technique, the boot has dropped into the pins perfectly. I used to get very close, but perfect is better than close, because ... you know ... OCD ;-)

... Thom

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Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un

This is the perfect method, and I adopted this technique a few years ago, thanks you your first posting this.

The only reason I start off with a template is to dial in the fore/aft mounting offset for the heel & toe piece (one hole located for both heel and toe). From that point forward, it's a matter of completing the heel mount (one hole at a time), followed by the toe (again - one hole at a time).

Since adopting this technique, the boot has dropped into the pins perfectly. I used to get very close, but perfect is better than close, because ... you know ... OCD ;-)

... Thom

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well yeah the template gets you in the right place fore & aft OR without a template you could just line up boot center & ski center or wherever you intend to put boot on the ski

but the one screw thing is to get the boot fitting dropping perfectly in the pins or heelpece on a frame binding,

I don't know if you need to also do the heelpiece with one screw, definalty sounds OCD ;) ?

so I just do the heel @ deadcenter then the toe piece just needs to rotate ever SO slightly around that one screw

when ski shop bro told me in 1 or 2 sentances it just made so much sense

Quote:

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Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un

All-righty then ...

In another thread, Terry @alpinord posted a video of his shiny new tool for doing inserts with.

I've used every possible method in the some 200-300 inserts I've installed, and Terry's brilliant, simple, obvious (after the fact, of course - everything is obvious) tool beats them all, and not by a small amount.

I had settled on the double-nut on an M5 screw technique, although with some core types, the screw wants to back out as you're extracting the screw. The key benefit of this insertion method (unlike the BF insertion tool) is that you can keep the insert vertical. This is not trivial.

Every step along the way, there's an opportunity for tilting the insert, and the last (insertion) step can undo a perfectly vertically drilled and tapped insert. This is the key problem I have with the BF insertion tool. Note, that I fabricated my own version of the BF tool from a flat-bladed screwdriver, but I applied the same principle, so I'm confident in stating this.

Terry's tool improves on this "double nut" technique, and not by a small amount.

If you're pondering purchase of any insertion tool, I implore you to head on over to this link on the Slidewrite page: https://www.slidewright.com/dp/slide...allation-tool/

Here's the video Terry posted, followed by my most recent job on a pair of Praxis BCs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9yIQ4SFETA

https://galibierdesign.com/images/ot...sert_Mount.jpg

... Thom

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Cool. Thanks for posting. Was just about to order 3 more screws because I messed up the threads using them as to screw in the inserts. Wish you could bookmark posts


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

I don't know if there is a vid but I have posted the method from when I asked my buddy the ski store owner how to mount tech bindings he told me

- 1st mount the heel dead center
- mount the toe by one screw only
- click boot in to binding and drill at least one more screw
- the boot should drop nicely into the heel pins

this will also work for frame bindings where you want the frame to drop cleanly into the heelpiece

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Thanks. Again, wish you could bookmark a post. For the third step, when you say drill one more screw, are you putting the drill bit in the binding hole and then drilling straight down from there?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

well yeah the template gets you in the right place fore & aft OR without a template you could just line up boot center & ski center or wherever you intend to put boot on the ski

but the one screw thing is to get the boot fitting dropping perfectly in the pins or heelpece on a frame binding,

I don't know if you need to also do the heelpiece with one screw, definalty sounds OCD ;) ?

so I just do the heel @ deadcenter then the toe piece just needs to rotate ever SO slightly around that one screw

when ski shop bro told me in 1 or 2 sentances it just made so much sense

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Well, ya dragged it out of me. I do the front two heel holes in one shot with the template, and then use the binder to mark the rear two holes.

A template can help (along with a test mount) if you're trying to finagle the heel mount point to cover a large BSL range (to land the heel somewhere other than the middle of its adjustment range).

Template users - little known fact: laser printers don't print to 100% scale and sample to sample print job varies slightly.

I try to do some precision prints of non-ski documents, and if I print something that's (say) 5" long, 3 different times, I might come up with measured lengths of4.988", 5.003", and 5.015". Worse yet, the X & Y axes aren't necessarily proportional.

That's no big deal for typical ski mounts, but if you're installing inserts, it can make a difference. So yeah, use the binding as a template according to your comfort level ;-)

... Thom

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeachesNCream

Thanks. Again, wish you could bookmark a post. For the third step, when you say drill one more screw, are you putting the drill bit in the binding hole and then drilling straight down from there?


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there is no post cuz its just some words more or less the same words buddy told me in a couple of sentences when i asked him and it made perfect sense to me

so the toe piece is properly located with the boot locked down, now I supose you could drill like that but what i would do is mark the inside of the hole of the toe piece with a fine felt marker and drill a pilot hole dead center of that hole first with a fine bit and then the correct 5/32nd bit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un

Well, ya dragged it out of me. I do the front two heel holes in one shot with the template, and then use the binder to mark the rear two holes.

A template can help (along with a test mount) if you're trying to finagle the heel mount point to cover a large BSL range (to land the heel somewhere other than the middle of its adjustment range).

Template users - little known fact: laser printers don't print to 100% scale and sample to sample print job varies slightly.

I try to do some precision prints of non-ski documents, and if I print something that's (say) 5" long, 3 different times, I might come up with measured lengths of4.988", 5.003", and 5.015". Worse yet, the X & Y axes aren't necessarily proportional.

That's no big deal for typical ski mounts, but if you're installing inserts, it can make a difference. So yeah, use the binding as a template according to your comfort level ;-)

... Thom

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well once you got 2 holes into a ski/ binding it ain't going anywhere

yeah good point make sure your template actualy printed to scale, i think there is usually something you can measure to check,

i printed an sth14 template which i checked and its a little small, i could wank about but i will probably just alter the printed template using the binding