PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

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Originally Posted by ezgzy

I have begun the journey of mounting my own fucking skis and have a question about how many mounts is acceptable… these black ops 118s are cooked and have 3 mounts but are currently too far forward for my tastes. Two of the mounts are forward of the line while the current mount is on the line, i want to move them back a bit by reusing the rear two mount holes for the toe and pulling the heel back the appropriate distance. First picture is the current situation, second picture is about where i would be putting new holes. I know the conventional wisdom is 3 mounts but some people mount 4-5 times or more, so my question is whether this is a good idea or not. My new holes would have significant clearance from all of the current ones, and i could use inserts if that would help. Ski does not have metal but it has an abs mount plate and it’s a poplar core. First two sets of holes filled with plugs, i could dowel and epoxy the current holes though. Will my skis snap in half? Please enlighten me.
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You'll probably get a huge range of opinions - but I'll give mine...
I've had several pairs of skis where the previous mounts interfered with the desired mount holes. (Like the holes actually touched.)
(I haven't had one, that I recall with 3+ mounts on it, but I'm not sure that matters a ton. But I say this in the spirit of full disclosure.)

All the skis I have experience doing this with were all very burly skis - most with two sheets of metal.

I have simply moved, in all cases, interference or not, to plugging old holes with bamboo skewers and epoxy. (And a little more on top to seal the plugs, BTW)
Then I simply mount wherever I desire. In a few cases, the new holes touch the old ones, and I've never had a mount rip out.

IMO, if you fill the holes, and use epoxy, I think the core is likely to be very nearly as strong as before.

(Or you might die, I dunno...) :)

[Edited to add: So, to be clear, if it were me, I'd pull all those plastic plugs, (drill the centers out with a small drill, insert a small #4 or so screw, and yank with a hammer nail-puller) then plug them with skewers and epoxy, and mount where you want. If it made me a little more comfortable, I might adjust forward/backward mount a little to add more separation.]

My minimal-worth $0.02.

-Greg

You might have to use some FG & slowset in the screw holes, so you want a cm between holes, IME you can usually re-use screw holes just pull the plugs out with a drywall screw

what is bad/ worse is overlapping holes which lots of people do but i wouldn't

again you want 1 cm between holes

edit: no point in pulling all the plugs, i think once you have cut the core with a drill you don't get the strength back with a piece of dowel

No need to pull all those plugs and fill with wood and epoxy. Sure they’d be stronger, but it’s unnecessary if the mount point in the second picture works for you. Mount them and ski them.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ezgzy

I have begun the journey of mounting my own fucking skis and have a question about how many mounts is acceptable… these black ops 118s are cooked and have 3 mounts but are currently too far forward for my tastes. Two of the mounts are forward of the line while the current mount is on the line, i want to move them back a bit by reusing the rear two mount holes for the toe and pulling the heel back the appropriate distance. First picture is the current situation, second picture is about where i would be putting new holes. I know the conventional wisdom is 3 mounts but some people mount 4-5 times or more, so my question is whether this is a good idea or not. My new holes would have significant clearance from all of the current ones, and i could use inserts if that would help. Ski does not have metal but it has an abs mount plate and it’s a poplar core. First two sets of holes filled with plugs, i could dowel and epoxy the current holes though. Will my skis snap in half? Please enlighten me.

Attachment 475867
Attachment 475868


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I agree with others that based solely on hole spacing I think you will be fine...

BUT...

It looks like you might try to re-use old pivot toepiece rear holes as front holes? They are not the same... that will not work.

Also... it looks like you are going -3 to 4cm? That is a lot in my opinion and I'd suggest if the mount point needs to be that much further back that maybe this is the wrong ski.

Just some thoughts...

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Originally Posted by Shorty_J

I agree with others that based solely on hole spacing I think you will be fine...

BUT...

It looks like you might try to re-use old pivot toepiece rear holes as front holes? They are not the same... that will not work.

Also... it looks like you are going -3 to 4cm? That is a lot in my opinion and I'd suggest if the mount point needs to be that much further back that maybe this is the wrong ski.

Just some thoughts...

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I don’t think the open holes are pivots, look like maybe royals in which case I think reusing the prev rear screws as new front screws would work


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You’re god to go, that new mount looks bomber (assuming the holes you are reusing are actually the correct spacing).

I once skied on skis with 47 holes in each ski. I’m still alive.

Anyone ever use one of these to find the centerline on a ski?
https://www.saltcitysteel.org/shop/p...-center-master
Looks pretty good.

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Originally Posted by Shorty_J

I agree with others that based solely on hole spacing I think you will be fine...

BUT...

It looks like you might try to re-use old pivot toepiece rear holes as front holes? They are not the same... that will not work.

Also... it looks like you are going -3 to 4cm? That is a lot in my opinion and I'd suggest if the mount point needs to be that much further back that maybe this is the wrong ski.

Just some thoughts...

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Would be going about -3, which i think will work on these given recommended is only -2.6 from true center. Blister liked them as far back as -6 from center so i think they’ll be fine.

And the current open holes are royals, the rest are pivots though.


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Originally Posted by turnfarmer

Anyone ever use one of these to find the centerline on a ski?
https://www.saltcitysteel.org/shop/p...-center-master
Looks pretty good.

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Love me analog engineering widgets but I'm not sure I see the advantage to one of these relative to one of the slidewright centering tools. I think this would be good at finding center line relative to the edges of the topsheet, but that's an inexact science especially with rolled edges or semi cap. Might as well use the folded paper strip trick at that point. If the points of the outside pickets extended down so that you could center between the ski edges you'd have something.

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Originally Posted by ezgzy

Would be going about -3, which i think will work on these given recommended is only -2.6 from true center. Blister liked them as far back as -6 from center so i think they’ll be fine.

And the current open holes are royals, the rest are pivots though.


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Right on... mount em up and rip.

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My 12 year old mounted up his new GPO’s tonight

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9a3d6e9570.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3230cb5603.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6430eee7c9.jpg


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That's a pretty sick set up for that young guy. Good job!!

After reading the last 20 pages, its not clear to me what the preferred glue/epoxy is for a fresh pivot mount (roo/SVST/GG have all been referenced). Please point me in the right direction, thanks!


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Originally Posted by zlatham

After reading the last 20 pages, its not clear to me what the preferred glue/epoxy is for a fresh pivot mount (roo/SVST/GG have all been referenced). Please point me in the right direction, thanks!


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Use one of them, not all of them

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Originally Posted by zlatham

its not clear to me what the preferred glue/epoxy is

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I recommend less thinking and more skiing.

Ready for it!!!

Attachment 476223

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Originally Posted by nickbokhoven

My 12 year old mounted up his new GPO’s tonight

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9a3d6e9570.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3230cb5603.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6430eee7c9.jpg


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That's great! It reminds me of these words of wisdom:wink::

Attachment 476233

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Originally Posted by Alpinord

That's great! It reminds me of these words of wisdom:wink::

Attachment 476233

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Lol

He is well on his way


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by zlatham

After reading the last 20 pages, its not clear to me what the preferred glue/epoxy is for a fresh pivot mount (roo/SVST/GG have all been referenced). Please point me in the right direction, thanks!


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I say flexseal. Ive never heard of anyone doing it but im 99% sure it would work well. the glue is mostly just for water intrusion... it shouldnt provide much pullout strength.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zlatham

After reading the last 20 pages, its not clear to me what the preferred glue/epoxy is for a fresh pivot mount (roo/SVST/GG have all been referenced). Please point me in the right direction, thanks!


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SVST glue and if epoxy Hardman orange label 72 hour

SVST for me on a fresh mount. It is suspiciously similar to Titebond III, except I pay more for a tiny bottle once every year and a half.

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Originally Posted by Brasso

SVST for me on a fresh mount. It is suspiciously similar to Titebond III, except I pay more for a tiny bottle once every year and a half.

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Seems like a good guess, since if you go to their website here:

http://690685.shop.netsuite.com/s.nl...33&category=78

And click the link for the SDS, you get this:

Attachment 476284

Though maybe Titebond II? That’s what they call their ‘premium’ wood glue. Titebond III is ‘ultimate’.

Edit:

I think it‘s Titebond II. The SVST SDS says it has aluminum chloride. There’s a warning on the Titebond website about aluminum chloride on the Titebond II page, but not the Titebond III page.

Clear 'rilla

FWIW I go with G/Flex epoxy. Good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/WEST-SYSTEM-f...df_B002IZFPQE/

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Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong

Seems like a good guess, since if you go to their website here:

http://690685.shop.netsuite.com/s.nl...33&category=78

And click the link for the SDS, you get this:

Attachment 476284

Though maybe Titebond II? That’s what they call their ‘premium’ wood glue. Titebond III is ‘ultimate’.

Edit:

I think it‘s Titebond II. The SVST SDS says it has aluminum chloride. There’s a warning on the Titebond website about aluminum chloride on the Titebond II page, but not the Titebond III page.

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Nice catch. If it is not the exact same it is extremely similar. Titebond II is just about as water resistant as III, the biggest difference is exposure to hot water and working time.