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10-20-2021, 09:26 AM
El Chupacabra

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tailwind

Rockshox is a bit better for small bump compliance with lighter riders. A Yari might be a good choice for a budget plush fork or a more basic version of the Pike.

Unless you're going to swap out the Yari's Motion Control damper ASAP, I'd suggest skipping any fork with MC. The Charger damper (any version) is much much better. I found the MC damper harsh no matter what I did with air pressure and tokens.

FWIW the Revelation is the cheaper version of the Pike, and the Yari is the cheaper Lyrik. A friend has an OEM Revelation with a Charger damper, but that's the only one I've seen like that.
10-20-2021, 09:32 AM
El Chupacabra

Experts: anyone know what the cone wrench sizes are for Shimano through axle hubs? I believe they use traditional cup and cone type bearings, but none of my cone wrenches are big enough. I'd like to repack the hubs over winter.

This is for SLX centerlock hubs, front is boost, rear is super boost.
10-20-2021, 10:37 AM
Dee Hubbs

^ 22mm for cone wrench and and 22mm for the outer nut.
The narrow end is 17mm
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...M7110-4606.pdf
10-20-2021, 10:39 AM
snowaddict91

2 Attachment(s)

Attachment 389663

Attachment 389664

Noticed this sidewall bubble on a 0-mile Maxxis Aggressor EXO this morning. Am I going to die? No levers used when mounting so seems to be a manufacturing defect.
10-20-2021, 10:41 AM
grskier

Quote:

Originally Posted by klauss

Rockshox Recon (2018 model) tops-out with clunk every time you lift up hard on handlebars .i.e. doing a jump or wheelie, but works well otherwise.

Took the kids bike in for some overhaul and ordered the suspension service which was $100 plus $16 in parts for the dust seal. I called the shop same day I dropped it off as I recalled my kids main complaint was the top out and mentioned that.

Picked bike up today and notice the rear brake which I asked them to bleed was still squishy and that was the main reason I asked for it to be bled. They were able to fix that on the spot by burping it, but I didn't really check the fork top out issue specifically but saw that it was operating well otherwise with new oil and dust seals.

Do I need to take it back and make heads roll :fmicon: or is that a hard thing to diagnose / fix for the $100 service charge. Or do I throw the whole thing in a dumpster and buy the kid a Zeb or 38? To be fair they also replaced a dropper post / cable with no service charge.

I've tried slowing rebound and cycling the fork to maybe get the correct negative pressure???

I had to reread this a few times to understand what you're getting at.

Did you point out the clunk to the shop when you dropped it off with one of the goals to fix it? Or did you assume the service you got would take care of it?

Should they have noticed the clunk after a full rebuild and said something... sure. But if it wasn't lined out as a goal I would say you go back pretty civil
10-20-2021, 11:08 AM
Dantheman

Been meaning to ask this one for a while:

Is there a method or trick to getting your bars perfectly perpendicular to your front wheel after putting a stem or fork back on? Or do even pro mechanics just eyeball it six different ways and call it good?
10-20-2021, 11:16 AM
rideit

Why they never made (or successfully marketed) a keyed stem/steer tube interface is beyond me. I do think I saw 1 or 2 over the years, though, but poorly executed.
10-20-2021, 11:18 AM
J. Barron DeJong

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dantheman

Been meaning to ask this one for a while:

Is there a method or trick to getting your bars perfectly perpendicular to your front wheel after putting a stem or fork back on? Or do even pro mechanics just eyeball it six different ways and call it good?

I’m interested in this one too. I’ve seen some various methods but nothing that works better than eyeball.

Using a single eyeball, and where you line of sight everything can help.
10-20-2021, 11:23 AM
Dantheman

Quote:

Originally Posted by rideit

Why they never made (or successfully marketed) a keyed stem/steer tube interface is beyond me. I do think I saw 1 or 2 over the years, though, but poorly executed.

Would make pressing the steerer into the crown a more difficult and low-tolerance process, maybe?

Quote:

Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong

Using a single eyeball, and where you line of sight everything can help.

Yeah, I usually go with one eyeball and try to align the bottom edge of the bar to the front edge of the fork crowns. I still feel like I spend way to much time agonizing over it.
10-20-2021, 11:25 AM
Dee Hubbs

Ask the experts

Re: straight bars. I get the customer to stand over the bike and tell them to line up the bars, and then I tighten them down. Everyone’s view and perception is different. If it looks straight to them it’s good to me. (Are you sure that looks straight to you? Okay then)
For my own bike I look down from above, and site the back of the bars with the top of the fork crown.
I find that easier that lining it up with the wheel/tire.
10-20-2021, 11:25 AM
rideit

It's about the same as eyeballing the angle of your brake levers. And seatpost.
10-20-2021, 11:31 AM
Dee Hubbs

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by rideit

It's about the same as eyeballing the angle of your brake levers. And seatpost.

What kind of Luddite does not have a tool to measure brake lever angle, or seat angle.
#toolnerd

Attachment 389672
10-20-2021, 11:55 AM
rideit

Not the level of the saddle (I use a level for that) but side to side.
10-20-2021, 12:13 PM
XXX-er

I eyeball the extension of the stem to be paralell with the front wheel, so its easier with a long road stem, less easy with a short modern enduro bike stem

I use a level to set the seat angle, YMMV but my crotch likes the seat slightly nose high
10-20-2021, 12:13 PM
J. Barron DeJong

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

What kind of Luddite does not have a tool to measure brake lever angle, or seat angle.
#toolnerd

Attachment 389672

Don’t even need to be a Luddite
Attachment 389676
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...7-7031fe244468
10-20-2021, 12:34 PM
Dee Hubbs

Quote:

Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong

Don’t even need to be a Luddite
Attachment 389676
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...7-7031fe244468

Its ironic that you posted a broken link. [emoji6]
10-20-2021, 12:40 PM
rideit

Down a rabbit-hole…

https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listc...hreadid=205203
10-20-2021, 12:52 PM
J. Barron DeJong

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

Its ironic that you posted a broken link. [emoji6]

That’s on me. Luddite living in the computer age.
10-20-2021, 12:59 PM
klauss

Quote:

Originally Posted by grskier

I had to reread this a few times to understand what you're getting at.

Did you point out the clunk to the shop when you dropped it off with one of the goals to fix it? Or did you assume the service you got would take care of it?

Should they have noticed the clunk after a full rebuild and said something... sure. But if it wasn't lined out as a goal I would say you go back pretty civil

I dropped bike off at shop requesting fork service among other services, then called back the same day saying that the specific ask from the fork service was the top out issue which I failed to mention when I dropped it off.

Picked it up from a different mechanic and forgot to check the top out as I was distracted pointing out some other items
10-20-2021, 01:33 PM
El Chupacabra

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

^ 22mm for cone wrench and and 22mm for the outer nut.
The narrow end is 17mm
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...M7110-4606.pdf

Thanks!
10-21-2021, 04:22 PM
El Chupacabra

Another simple Q for the experts: I need a replacement chainring for a Race Face cinch crankset, 1X direct mount chainring. It's on an 11-spd bike with boost spacing. Does Race Face make different chainrings for boost vs non boost, like SRAM?

I'm leaning towards the steel Race Face chainring for longevity.
10-21-2021, 04:56 PM
Dee Hubbs

^ RaceFace only makes their direct mount Cinch rings with a 51mm chainline. This is good for boost. Most of the the aftermarket rings list 52mm as an ideal chainline.
Here is a good explanation from OneUpComponents
10-21-2021, 05:28 PM
grskier

Quote:

Originally Posted by klauss

I dropped bike off at shop requesting fork service among other services, then called back the same day saying that the specific ask from the fork service was the top out issue which I failed to mention when I dropped it off.

Picked it up from a different mechanic and forgot to check the top out as I was distracted pointing out some other items

OK, well, that changes things if you were specific to diagnosing and potentially fixing a problem.
At both of the shops I go to they always call during diagnostics on things like this because it's not 'just' a fork service.....
Anyhow, I'd call and say I asked for this to be addressed, you guys had it all apart once, etc...
10-21-2021, 06:09 PM
El Chupacabra

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

^ RaceFace only makes their direct mount Cinch rings with a 51mm chainline. This is good for boost. Most of the the aftermarket rings list 52mm as an ideal chainline.
Here is a good explanation from OneUpComponents

Thanks!
10-22-2021, 10:26 AM
HankScorpio

Need some insight from bike shop people about a hub warranty......

In 2020 I bought a custom wheelset from Colorado Cyclist.com - Hope hubs on Race Face rims. Back in May, the rim cracks around the spoke nipple and Race Face replaces the rim under warranty but it was backordered for months so I went to the local shop and had them lace up the Hope hub with a new WTB rim. The RF rim eventually arrives so I keep it as a spare.

A couple months later the Microspline freehub that came with said Hope hub cracks. I can't find one in stock so I swap the Microspline freehub and cassette with XD ones I already had.

Fast forward a couple more months and the Hope hub fails (the notched ring that the pawls hook into started slipping inside the hub). Hope says contact the place you bought it from so Colorado Cyclist tells me to send the wheel and hub back. They just emailed me and are doubting that the hub I sent them is the one I bought from them due to a new rim and different freehub.

Besides having dogshit luck with the wheel.....am I screwed here? I have documentation and pictures for broken rim and freehub. Can they deny my hub warranty because I had a new rim laced up and replaced the freehub? I don't think I'm in the wrong here and have a hunch they might tell me I'm SOL.

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