PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

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Originally Posted by kid-kapow

Attachment 457270
wopsy, both another pair of blackops118s. So far so good, I am really enjoying them. Mounted -2 from recommended, so -4.5. I would love to try these back to back with jeff118s, but alas - cannot afford any jeffs now.

The plan is to try them back to back with koala118 as the wider ski, + koala103 vs sender free 110 as the narrower ski for a two ski quiver - but I might just forego the testing if I end up preferring the bo118s by alot to k118s tomorrow. Sender Free 110s make me very, very excited - can't wait to get on them.

K119s are nice too, but are like koala103s just too stiff imho. Both k119s and k103s are hilariously fun in drier snow, but too much work in wet, supervariable snow imho. Their stiff flex patterns causes deflections and/or make them hard work to shut down at mach looney. Too bad, as a slightly rounder flex pattern would have made them almost ideal skis as the shapes are money.

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Nice

I picked up a Wera pistol-grip torque driver last year cuz I’ll use any excuse to get a new tool.

4nm isn’t much torque but it certainly felt like I was doing less when hand tightening with the pozi screwdriver

I got a 5 Nm torque driver and ended up stripping 3 toe holes in a recent mount. Nothing some heli-coils wouldn't fix, but I actually think doing it by feel is less likely to cause issues. I don't really think that 1 Nm extra was a problem. Granted, the skis have fairly soft cores --- Voile hyper construction.

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Originally Posted by Cork7 Belly Flop

Does anyone here actually tighten their screws to 4nm or do people just go with 'hand tight'?

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Hand. Maybe I'll use a torque wrench next time and compare.

Well, my first mount reached problematic status. I'd thought the brake assembly was unusually wobbly, then I finally realized that two of my heelpiece screws weren't actually biting anymore.

I briefly considered trying to actually helicoil the stripped holes, but after concluding that I had more than a centimeter of forward pressure adjustment to work with, I filled the stripped holes with an epoxy and steel wool mix and moved the mount forward, rather than try to get my hands on helicoils.

I should've grabbed another photo, but I've got about 2mm to spare. The toes are also off about 0.5cm fore/aft from each other, so anyone who takes a close look at the mount is going to be thinking WTF...maybe I should find a shop sticker to put on?Attachment 458188

We need to start a ‘fucked up your own ski mount’ thread. Like a support group.

Haven’t fucked up a mount yet, but mounting Pivots on my R87s soon, which will be a first for those binders. Fingers crossed…

In for the group:

“Hello my name is John and I have fucked up a mount, it was pivots and I have done 13 clean mounts since that day.”

- group response- “Hiiii John!”


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I've had a few spinners but never anything more serious. At least a dozen home mounts, all with paper templates.

Slow the fuck down and measure twice guys.

Geeze, you're making us all look bad. How can we shit on shops botching mounts if we can't even do it right our own fkn selves?

Measuring isn’t the hard part for me, it’s the spinners. Start with the driver by hand for a turn or two, and go to the drill until 6nm, on the screw gun, then 1/4 turn by hand is my method. Still get a spinner or two. But, forward pressure on looks? Good luck! Close enough is my rule there


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hand tighten - there’s no need to use a driver if you’re doing it at home - you’re way less likely to get a spinner - I’ve mounted a few pair this season with no problems

actually one pair had a problem - heel screws started ripping out on an old pair I remounted for my girlfriend - they felt ok going in but it turned out the wood core was rotting from earlier water infiltration (I think) - when I started digging around after they came out I could tell the wood was shiite

that’s one reason why I like epoxy for mounting and for plugging holes

that’s how I learned when I worked at a backcountry / nordic shop and that’s how I’ve pretty much always done it

The best place to practise is on your GF's skis

I mounted three pair for her this season - one old and two new - the new ones turned out great and the old ones ripped out

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Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum

Well, my first mount reached problematic status. I'd thought the brake assembly was unusually wobbly, then I finally realized that two of my heelpiece screws weren't actually biting anymore.

I briefly considered trying to actually helicoil the stripped holes, but after concluding that I had more than a centimeter of forward pressure adjustment to work with, I filled the stripped holes with an epoxy and steel wool mix and moved the mount forward, rather than try to get my hands on helicoils.

I should've grabbed another photo, but I've got about 2mm to spare. The toes are also off about 0.5cm fore/aft from each other, so anyone who takes a close look at the mount is going to be thinking WTF...maybe I should find a shop sticker to put on?Attachment 458188

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Find a pair of L/R REI stickers and slap them on the skis. Then delete this post.

I’ll start with an impact gun. But always finish by hand.
4nm doesn’t seem like much. I crank until it’s tight. By hand.

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Originally Posted by ~mikey b

hand tighten - there’s no need to use a driver if you’re doing it at home - you’re way less likely to get a spinner - I’ve mounted a few pair this season with no problems

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Same. Hand tighten at home. When I worked in a shop, I used a drill with a very light clutch setting. Never used a torque wrench for binding screws.

Think about it… what’s the purpose of the screws? Just to hold the binding snugly against the ski. The glue (or epoxy for some of you) holds the screw in place, not the force of the tightened threads.

No. Screws don’t magically walk out.

The glue or epoxy does hold the screw. Yes. But it’s mostly to soak into the wood core and strengthen the wood fibers. And prevent water getting in and rusting the screw. But honestly. How long would it take to rust the threads off a screw?

Try over drilling a thread hole. Then ask the epoxy to make it right. No. It’s slightly under drilling and the threads bite into the wood core.

correct

screws need something to bite into - epoxy or glue keeps the water out - I should have known my girlfriend’s cores were bad when I saw rusty screws - not unusual for 10-12 year old wood core skis

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Originally Posted by jbrine

In for the group:

“Hello my name is John and I have fucked up a mount, it was pivots and I have done 13 clean mounts since that day.”

- group response- “Hiiii John!”


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Fuck. How did you figure out the ‘J’ is for John? This was supposed to be a pseudonymous account, and now my cover is blown!

excuse me i have to go to the john

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Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong

Fuck. How did you figure out the ‘J’ is for John? This was supposed to be a pseudonymous account, and now my cover is blown!

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

excuse me i have to go to the john

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Hiii johns!!

A driver would save my hands if I had to do mounts all day but once year not much point IMO

if you facked op a screw hole use epoxy & filler material, run the screw in till its about to spin, leave it a couple days and you should be able to crank it down hard

I seem to mount 5-10 pair a year between myself, Owen, and assorted friends

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Originally Posted by Core Shot

Hiii johns!!

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Not sure I appreciate what’s been implied here…

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Originally Posted by Core Shot

Hiii johns!!

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Uh, hi there?

Alright, I feel like I’m crazy. I’m most likely going to add adjustment plates to some bd helio 110(atk sl world cup) since I just got boots that are a few mm bigger. Atk recommends using 11mm screws to mount either race heel pieces or adjustment plates. Thing is the adjustment plates are 2mm thicker. Would I be at risk if I lose 2mm of screw penetration (hehe)? Would I be better off ordering longer screws, I would guess 13mm. Attachment 458292Attachment 458293Attachment 458294


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