Any bolt should work, ime
Dremel tool ftw
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Any bolt should work, ime
Dremel tool ftw
If you scroll down to the product description it says the arms on those are 95 mm. Tektro's website backs that up (http://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=186) so those should work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by RootSkier
The exact model on Cleary's site appears to be the Tektro J310 (http://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=164). It doesn't appear to be available on Amazon, but Frog sells them: https://www.frogbikes.com/Tektro-Alu...-Tadpole-Black
Not sure if you need front or rear, but v-brakes aren't actually F/R specific. They just put the pads in one direction for the front and the opposite direction for the rear. So, if you need a front, switch the pads around and you're GTG.
Awesome, thanks guys. The 4-year-old has been relentless since this broke at the campground on Sunday.
is it hard to replace a fork yourself? I have a replacement fork, just need to cut it and install it. pipe cutter and a file and it seems straightforward enough, any gotchas I’m missing? measure twice etc
Removing the crown race from the old fork can vary from trivial to impossible without damaging the crown race. Many modern headsets use split crown races that make it easy, but sometimes you get a really bad fork / crown race combo that just won't come apart. In that case it can be worth getting a crown race remover, having a shop remove it, or just buying another crown race.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
To remove a crown race, I usually start by tapping in a utility knife blade with a hammer, then get larger and larger (non-serrated old butter knife, then flathead screwdriver). That seems to do a good job without making much of a mess.Quote:
Originally Posted by nick_B10
Like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnBC5CEdgi8
To re-install, I used to tap it on with a flathead screwdriver, but having a section of scrap PVC pipe I can use to tap on the crown race has made my life a lot easier.
You will also need to install a star nut, which is easier with the right tools. But I've also bodged it using a socket, like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2web0rlrX8
Use a hacksaw to cut it, not a pipe cutter. Pipe cutter can leave a flange on the tube. Assuming you don't have a saw guide, put a piece of tape around the tube to help you keep your cut straight-ish.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
I just buy a new crown race... they’re like $12.
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ThisQuote:
Originally Posted by nickwm21
And file it smooth when you are done.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Also, the Park headset race setting tool is one of my favorite tools ever. I love mine. It makes a challenging job so simple and it’s just super satisfying to use for some reason.
I recommend investing.
Why buy a $12 race when you can spend $85 bucks on a tool? Always buy the tool man!
I've had good luck with a pipe cutter and a small amount of filing.
That's what I do. The pipe cutter does leave a little lip, but it's so much less work than a hacksaw that it's net easier, even with a little filing afterwards.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
Even more so if you've got air tools and a die grinder.
Use what you got, either will work. File it down to remove the sharp edge and fix the inevitable angle on the cut.
If the steerer is carbon (road bikes) put tape around where you’re going to cut to minimize fiber fraying.
There won't be an angle with a pipe cutter.Quote:
Originally Posted by teledad
The main thing with the cutter, especially if the cutting wheel is dull, is to tighten the cutter gradually as you work. Too fast and you can get a bulge at the end of the tube. Use the reamer on the cutter to clean the rough lip inside of the tube.
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You can also use a stem (or pair of stems) as a saw guide. Almost like they were made to clamp onto a fork steer tube.
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Performance used to be great for buying cheap versions of useful tools I didn’t want to heavily invest in. I’ve got a saw guide and a star nut setting tool that I think were like $8 bucks each. Maybe there’s an Amazon equivalent?
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That’s not a bad idea, but I would use old stems that you don’t care about marring up. I have done the same using old grip lock-on collars to cut bars, and the hacksaw definitely did a bit of damage to the collars.Quote:
Originally Posted by radam
Does a pipe cutter work on carbon? I have always used a pipe cutter on alloy and a hacksaw on carbon.Quote:
Originally Posted by teledad
noQuote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
Definitely get a hacksaw blade made for cutting carbon.
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Mine were from Nashbar - probably the exact same tools.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Could the clutch in my 12 speed XT derailleur really be sticking after only 350 miles? I'm guessing this may be more than pull off the clutch cover and blast is with degreaser?
Good timing considering I have an all day ride tomorrow.
I've had the same issue with mine lately, but with way more miles. I re-greased the clutch roller and had the shop check it out, but it was still sticking and creaking like a MF'er (but still functioned fine). I'm sending mine back for a warranty replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
https://crankjoy.com/review-update-s...arising-issue/
Thanks man, that link was incredibly helpful. Greasing the clutch looks pretty straight forward so that'll be my short term solution. Good to know I can call Shimano and get a replacement if it gets worse.Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
alright, thanks everyone. I may as well give it a go, can't be much harder than mounting my own skis and I managed to get that done with a handheld cordless drill.
dumb Q, but do I need to buy a star nut separately? it doesn't seem like one came w/the fork, and judging from that video I'm not sure I'll be removing one from my old fork.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
for cutting, tape + hacksaw + metal file seems fine to me, I have a reasonably steady hand and a workbench with clamps I can use. most of the process seems to be "unscrew and rescrew some screws" which I think I oughta be able to manage...
New star nut, $2.00 at any bike shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
alright, looks like amazon has a nice idiot-proof (mall walker proof) star nut installer for < $20 so that's that. thanks!
Star nut setter is definitely money well-spent.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
Agreed but it can be done without one if you are careful. I’ve probably done 30 of them without a setter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
But definitely worth buying one - see earlier post on tools.
Somehow I’ve never dropped the $30 on the race removal tool though...
https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Bicycle-.../dp/B009MQVS40
^ with a new crown race costing $12 I think I'll take my chances with the butter knife / screwdriver approach...
The razor blade/butter knife/screwdriver approach is for removing a crown race without messing up your fork, not so much about keeping the crown race in tact. If you're okay with getting a new crown race, just leave the old one on the old fork.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
For installing a crown race, a 1' long piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe is your best bet. But you can tap it on with a flathead screwdriver with a bit more difficulty and more risk of gouging up your new steerer tube.
Lowes/HD usually sell pre-cut 2-foot lengths of 1.5" ABS that works perfect. They're like $2, no-brainer.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
Oh it can be done, and worst-case you just have to buy a new star nut, but once you use the tool there's no going back.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Speaking of cutting things, what's everyone choice tool for cutting cable housing? When I replaced my drivetrain last month I used an angle grinder since my experience with dedicated tools is that they still flatten the shit out of the housing and you have to reshape the ends. The grinder did a great job with 1 minor issue: the inner liner (the clear plastic which I assume is coated in PTFE) shrunk a bit from the heat and threatened to close up. I re-opened it with a safety pin and had a bit of resistance when pushing the cable through but once it made it past the constriction everything felt smooth. I think it would be a different game with brake lines though so I might buy a dedicated tool...
I bought cheap cable cutters years ago and they were terrible. I wised up and eventually got these Park Tool ones. They’re great, sharp clean cut every time, they even cut hydro brake lines. Don’t skimp on cable cutters.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boissal
https://www.parktool.com/product/pro...g-cutter-cn-10
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NEVER, NEVER use a pipe cutter for carbon! It crushes and frays the carbon. As said, always use a carbon blade.Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
The Park cable cutter does kick ass for just about everything. It does leave a little bit to be desired with Hayes kevlar hoses, but a sharp razor knife and a steady hand gets the job done.
A carbon saw blade is worth the money since even the Park one only costs $9, but a 32 TPI blade and patience can definitely work just fine.
I know most of us are only cutting a carbon bar maybe once a year, but the carbon dust produced from cutting is bad for your lungs. I try to wear a mask when cutting carbon, and do it outside, or with the shop vac running to collect the dust.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
My park took cutters were awesome until recently - I think I used them to cut some thicker gauge cable for something non-bike related and now they don’t cut hoses clean. They still cut cables perfectly though...Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpio
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What he saidQuote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Both lines.
My cane creek db coil has 2 thin white plastic/delrin? bushings underneath the bump stop that are countersunk into the spring retainer. The manual that came with the shock is for older cc shocks and it doesnt list or show those 2 thin bushings in the parts diagram. My old cc db coil didnt have them. Anyone know what theyre for? I know dvo changes the stroke length in their jade x coil by just swapping the coil retainer to augment the stroke to allow it to be longer or shorter. The shock should have 65mm stroke for my bike so im hoping those bushings arent making it 60mm stroke. They're thin. Without pulling it apart i think that both of them together are less than 5mm thick. Maybe there's 2 to have 2 slippery surfaces to keep things smooth when the shock bottoms out?possibly a new little tweak feature cc are doing on the new db coil shocks?Anyone familiar with those bushing?
Also i ordered it with a 450lb spring. Writing on the coil indicates 450 x 2.50. The spring was much too firm(calculator put me at 368lb). I found another cc coil spring in my parts box and its listed as 350 x 2.50 and that gives me proper sag. Happy. Its weird though, both the 450 and 350 coils are 2.50 stroke so i thought the springs would be the same length and just have a different wind to make it lighter/heavier. The 350lb spring is almost an inch shorter in length than the 450. Does that make sense?
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