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This jig is sweet. I've created a more beefed up version, which I'll upload to Thingiverse soon, along with my template for STH2 WTR binders. I wish more people would contribute to this badass template/jig, as it makes it a breeze to install new bindings.Quote:
Originally Posted by I've seen black diamonds!
Had these in HS... awesomeQuote:
Originally Posted by PlayItLeo
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This is super cool! When the pivot jig is figured out, I'll definitely print one upQuote:
Originally Posted by el duderino
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Any recommendations for a value oriented 3D printer that would be capable of printing that jig?
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Attachment 449997
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That's as clean as a Safeway chicken.Quote:
Originally Posted by otto parts
^^^beautiful setup^^^
Anybody with a 3d printer wanna print me some of the rear goggle clips for the smith Maze/Allure helmet?
I can do it, but no time to make the CAD - Find me a 3D file, cover material and shipping
Need some Jigarex help. Just got some attack plates from tognar. The toe plate looks perfect. The heel plate is way off. Holes are way too far forward and the rear-most set of holes are too close together. The plate is labeled attack, and I don’t think the attack mounting pattern has ever changed - original attack and attack2 use the same pattern I believe. So I’m thinking maybe it’s just a mislabeled plate.
Photos below. Anybody have any thoughts, or recognize the drill pattern as another binding? Little screwed cause I’m trying to mount these today. (Cross posted in Jigarex thread). Toe side is toward the bottom of these photos.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c49edc3f2a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...621a9f37c2.jpg
Yeah, that seems off. Back holes are wider than front holes
I ended up using the front plate for the toe piece, which worked perfectly. For the heel I used the paper template and ran it back from boot center. Worked ok, mount was right on. Just annoying. I have at least one more of these Attack mounts to do - hopefully Tognar can get me the right plate. A little worried the whole run is off though.
As an aside, it seemed like the paper template was a little off and would have pushed the boot about +1cm. When I printed it out on 8.5x11 paper it all looked right but the scale on the side didn't measure correctly. I had to blow it up 103% to get the scale right - and that may have been what pushed the toe forward. Seems like maybe the scale on the side is off on the bindingfreedom Attack template? Putting it out here for general knowledge.
I thought we sorted this out in the Minimum & Maximum Boot Sole Lengths thread:Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
Attachment 450350
What BSL are you using?
275. Wife's boot. I used the Wagner template on the bindingfreedom website labeled R4. I'll need to compare it to the min max thread. But when printed to the right scale it pushed the toe piece something like .7cm forward from where the jigarex plate put it, and the jigarex plate resulted in dead nuts boot center matchup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
Picked up some Blanks from ptex Tim.
Attachment 450390
Ok, went through it and see that the newer template is a little shorter than the older one. That might explain it, and from now on I'll use Knut's and then double check boot center. Thanks for the heads up - I hadn't read all the way through that thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
I picked up the 188 Merlin IVs from goodwill the other day--they're in pretty good shape, and most importantly, the piezo blinkly lights still light up when you flex the skis! They were mounted at like, -6 from the line with a pair of maker 8.1 SC (that's select control for the uninitiated) death traps, about which Ski Magazine wrote this nice little piece:
"By manipulating flex, Marker’s Selective Control (SC) shifter transforms a single ski into a quiver.
Position 1 is designed to have little or no influence on the ski’s personality: It gives the ski a free-floating sensation meant for slow speeds, soft snow and moguls, where tips need to float over the bumps.
Position 2, the Logic1’s default setting, is best for everyday use on groomed surfaces. It feels natural and strong, especially at the end of high-speed turns, where the ski slices back out of the fall line with no sense of deceleration. Position 3 is the most powerful setting Marker has ever offered. The edge engagement is incredible. Racers and All-Mountain Experts will click to 3, then mount a search-and-destroy mission on ice and hardpack."
Almost as brilliant as keyhole technology.
Anyways those went in the trash, I moved the plastic 977s off the extremes on to the Merlins, and then the metal-er 977s went on the extremes. I ski the extremes a couple times a year, these Merlins look like they might be a fun spring groomer zoomer.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...52461b6513.jpg
Seconded on this questionQuote:
Originally Posted by slowroastin
I haven't looked at how big the parts are, but probably an ender 3 or something like that for an inexpensive printer. The more money you are willing to spend the less fiddly of a printer you will end up with. You can also print at a lot of libraries, but it can be hard to do any sort of involved assembly like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPowHound
There are several other threads about printing and ski jigs that are better locations for this:
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...-outdoor-nerds
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d-mounting-jig
(I think the original project is dead, but some RFconroy's templates and stuff and some general 3d printing discussion in there)
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ig-(printable)
(my jig that I would argue is a better universal jig, but also isn't entirely printable. If you just want a jig and aren't overly interested in printing send me a message. I have made and shipped a couple dozen of these at $65 + $10 per template set)
I fucked up again. I was rushing and ended up drilling off-center. The holes are less than 1cm away from where they should be. I tried filling in with some JBWeld MarineWeld (claims to be drillable) mixed with chopped up fiberglass mat. When I went to drill the new holes, it just busted through the epoxy. I think maybe there were air bubbles, I tried my best to pack the epoxy in well but it didn't want to stay in with the glass making it thick. Is there any fix for this? I'd rather not go forward or back because l already have the other ski mounted correctly.
YES!Quote:
Originally Posted by otto parts
YES!Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
and noQuote:
Originally Posted by ApexSkua
I’d consider ss inserts and epoxy.Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSkua
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Slidewright.com
I successfully taped and used 1/4-20 nylon screws as fillers on such fuck ups. See if you can use the binding and a bushing(hose) on the drill bit to re-drill. Those nylon screws are surprisingly tough.Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSkua
What binding, and how many holes even up being "challenged"?