Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

Badass C20, refried. Might be time to short bed that bitch, though. :D


This thing sat and sat until I got a wild hair and offered the guy $800.

Attachment 498831

Attachment 498832

Cleaned up decent.

Attachment 498835

New alternator fixed the failing tranny (for now?) and seems like it's leaking more oil more than it's burning. The interior isn't bad, but it stinks. Got an ozone machine to deal with that, but there's some mouse remnants to deal with first. It needs a timing belt and a valve adjustment. We'll see what else I find, but hoping it's more stuff I can do myself.

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Originally Posted by east or bust

All in all the job seems very straight forward. Doing the axles on jack stands doesn't make me very stoked though.

Stupid question: When you slip the axle out and lose a bunch of gear oil do you normally just drain all of it and refill per manufacturer recommendations? Otherwise how much would you know to add?

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The hardest part is getting the axles out and back in. And its not that hard. Getting em out took a pop. I girth hitched some rope around the axle, tied it to a splitting maul, and a swing got them out. Putting them in, a big rubber sledge and second set of hands to help guide and support the axles were valuable.

Just fill the diff with oil til it comes out the fill plug hole. Drain the gear oil from the diff prior, do your work, then fill the diff with fresh gear oil after the axle and hub are in

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

Badass C20, refried. Might be time to short bed that bitch, though. :D

.

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Can't fit a cord of wood in a 6' bed though, even though some guys selling wood swear you can.

I lost 1/4 cup gear oil total doing both axles and didn't worry about it.

Before you take it all apart check your iner axle seals (where the axles go into the center diff) this is also the time to change those if they are leaking. It is also a good time to change your front diff fluid if it is due or unknown.

To pop the axles out, there is a flat spot machined into the large CV sleeve of the axle on the end that goes into the center diff, that allows purchase of a large screwdriver and sledgehammer to hit it and that force pops it out rather easy.
To reinstall, the same sledgehammer any block of wood on the end of the axle, with the nut in place to protect the threads, and the axle held is straight as possible, will pop it back in

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

This thing sat and sat until I got a wild hair and offered the guy $800.

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Nice!!! For $800, that is definitely worth tinkering around with!

Did the cv axles on the Mrs’ Subaru. It’s destined to become the oldest’s car next year so she was helping out. Local parts store had some descent quality ones in stock- so I thought.

Passanger side- some swearing over rusty bolts. But a little heat and a 3ft breaker bar got it in in under an hour. Very proud. “See sweety, we don’t need to pay some shop $500 for this, this right here is self reliance!”

Shit went south on the other side. Would not seat in the transfer case, swearing, sweating, daughter no longer wants a car thinks walking is fine.

Take the cir-clip off - still no go. Turns out the poor child in Shenzen didn’t set the lath right and now I have it stuck half way in thanks to my “don’t force it- just get a bigger hammer” philosophy!
Finally get it out, back to Lordco (this may have been where I went wrong)- three days for a replacement.
Replacement goes in smooth as butter!

Mechanics is like golf. It seems like a good idea until you do it. Then it is stupid.

But I will probably do it again.

Oh - and as for getting them in on jack stands- I’ve always found that just going underneath holding the shaft and using it like slide hammer does the trick. It works 100%- 70% of the time

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Originally Posted by Djongo Unchained

EoB - I got all that stuff in the shop if ya wanna work over here. Or you can borrow it...

I debated changing some brake pads this weekend but that shite can wait. Holla.

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Thanks mang, I'll text ya.

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Originally Posted by claymond

The hardest part is getting the axles out and back in. And its not that hard. Getting em out took a pop. I girth hitched some rope around the axle, tied it to a splitting maul, and a swing got them out. Putting them in, a big rubber sledge and second set of hands to help guide and support the axles were valuable.

Just fill the diff with oil til it comes out the fill plug hole. Drain the gear oil from the diff prior, do your work, then fill the diff with fresh gear oil after the axle and hub are in

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Thanks. That's a good recommendation on the ghetto slide hammer.

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Originally Posted by heckacali

I lost 1/4 cup gear oil total doing both axles and didn't worry about it.

Before you take it all apart check your iner axle seals (where the axles go into the center diff) this is also the time to change those if they are leaking. It is also a good time to change your front diff fluid if it is due or unknown.

To pop the axles out, there is a flat spot machined into the large CV sleeve of the axle on the end that goes into the center diff, that allows purchase of a large screwdriver and sledgehammer to hit it and that force pops it out rather easy.
To reinstall, the same sledgehammer any block of wood on the end of the axle, with the nut in place to protect the threads, and the axle held is straight as possible, will pop it back in

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After getting under the rig to really inspect things, to my surprise it appears I do not have OEM CVs (the drive side housing on both is smooth, no notches), which sucks because I was planning to go the CJV route. But eating a $350 core charge ($175ea) makes that route a no go for me. I bought it at 91k miles, it's at 170k now. Really surprised the OEM CVs were swapped out by the previous owner at sub 100k miles.

Curious what parts you used on your recent service. Called my local dealer and apparently Toyota no longer does OEM remans, and they quoted a new OEM axle $612/ea. At this point I'm about to say fuck it and send a rock auto replacement.


Sounds like a good time Lhutz...

My personal GX470, I disassembled the axles and replaced the boots with genuine Lexus parts and repacked the CVs myself.

My friends taco that's a beater I just did, and a few other customer/friend vehicles? Just got master pro lifetime warranty remanufactured from O'Reilly's.

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Originally Posted by LHutz Esq

Mechanics is like golf. It seems like a good idea until you do it. Then it is stupid.

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So true

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Originally Posted by bagtagley

Badass C20, refried. Might be time to short bed that bitch, though. :D


This thing sat and sat until I got a wild hair and offered the guy $800.

Attachment 498831

Attachment 498832

Cleaned up decent.

Attachment 498835

New alternator fixed the failing tranny (for now?) and seems like it's leaking more oil more than it's burning. The interior isn't bad, but it stinks. Got an ozone machine to deal with that, but there's some mouse remnants to deal with first. It needs a timing belt and a valve adjustment. We'll see what else I find, but hoping it's more stuff I can do myself.

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Timing belts on the j6 is not too difficult, worst part is loosening the crank bolt. Buy/beg/borrow /steal a high torque impact and a weighted socket to loosen. Make sure you get a legit aisin kit, Rockauto sells them-DO NOT source from Amazon.
You might check map voltage(s) at idle and under load before you tackle valve adjustment. It's not a difficult job but a PITA and might not get you anything in return.
Chances are your valve cover gaskets are leaking from age and/or needing a PCV valve.
Try a tranny drain/fill multiple times with Valvoline max life synthetic. It's super cheap at Walmart in 5qt jugs.
Shit, I would but that thing all day for $800.

Back when I got my first new car lug locks were a thing and so I got them. Haven't had any for many years now but might be time to consider again?
(Not my ride fortunately, but not parked in a bad area)

Attachment 498897

Very considerate thieves not to just leave the rotors sitting on the asphalt

I finished my "over the hood" adventure. 4 rattle cans left me 1 can short but no one knows but me. Actually had a young woman stop, roll down her window and yell "Nice Jeep!!" She couldn't have been a day over 60. I put some new zip ties on the gasity go wire cable too. Thinking I'll upgrade to copper wire.

Attachment 498909

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Good enough.

Also, a heat gun can turn those faded gray plastic bits back to black-er

Yeah, I've heard about the heat gun but I plan to take the fenders off and paint them.
80 degree day so my grandson came over to help me install a new Best Top that his dad gave me for Xmas. Took about all day.

Attachment 498916

I’ve had an exhaust leak since shortly after I replaced the driver side manifold on my Express 5.3 like three years ago. It periodically ticks when cold and then goes away entirely.

I finally opened up the doghouse and found the manifold bolts (which were carefully torqued in pattern) had backed themselves out and there was a full 1/4” gap between the manifold and head, with only the sliver of the metal gasket taking up a tiny bit of space.

I put a new thicker FelPro on and re-torqued everything- amazing how quiet this thing is, and way better mileage!

Spray in bedliner on my Tundra yesterday, Herculiner. Went OK, but had a lot of dried hard product in the bottles that kept clogging the sprayer. Wasted more product than I'd like. Only got my 6' bed done. Gonna need a few more bottles for the bumper and tailgate. Emailed the company so we will see what happens.

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Originally Posted by Name Redacted

Spray in bedliner on my Tundra yesterday, Herculiner. Went OK, but had a lot of dried hard product in the bottles that kept clogging the sprayer. Wasted more product than I'd like. Only got my 6' bed done. Gonna need a few more bottles for the bumper and tailgate. Emailed the company so we will see what happens.

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I roller and brushed on Herculiner on the hood and roof of my redneck truck last fall. It was shiny black at first, lost the shine quickly, and has now faded to a matte grayish black. Just FYI. The truck is outside at all times, so YMMV.

Did it turn out pretty rough texture, using the spray gun? Roller / brush finish is very rough - - you would not want to kneel on it or walk barefoot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fatnslow

Timing belts on the j6 is not too difficult, worst part is loosening the crank bolt. Buy/beg/borrow /steal a high torque impact and a weighted socket to loosen. Make sure you get a legit aisin kit, Rockauto sells them-DO NOT source from Amazon.
You might check map voltage(s) at idle and under load before you tackle valve adjustment. It's not a difficult job but a PITA and might not get you anything in return.
Chances are your valve cover gaskets are leaking from age and/or needing a PCV valve.
Try a tranny drain/fill multiple times with Valvoline max life synthetic. It's super cheap at Walmart in 5qt jugs.
Shit, I would but that thing all day for $800.

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Thanks, good info. Valve adjustment is based on valve noise and the fact that it and the timing have never been done. I go back and forth between Valvoline and Honda DW1. I know the Valvoline will be fine but I’ve been a strict adherent to OEM fluids with our other Hondas and it’s a hard habit to break. Which reminds me, I need to do the rear differential, too.

Yeah, bit of a gamble, but now knowing the tranny is probably okay, definitely seeming like a good buy. I see guys on YouTube spend a lot more on rusted out, malaise era garbage.

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I roller and brushed on Herculiner on the hood and roof of my redneck truck last fall. It was shiny black at first, lost the shine quickly, and has now faded to a matte grayish black. Just FYI. The truck is outside at all times, so YMMV.

Did it turn out pretty rough texture, using the spray gun? Roller / brush finish is very rough - - you would not want to kneel on it or walk barefoot.

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I would say this is more dull and rounded than sharp. Still wet this am. Maybe I went a little thicker than I should have, and it was colder last night. If it dries solid, it should be pretty good I think. I mainly did this to protect from rust while my Scout camper sits in there on top of a horse stall mat, so I'm not that worried about aesthetics.
Attachment 498940

Might have to order another bottle for the tailgate and bumper, which kinda pisses me off but whatever.

Taco getting a new rear step.
Attachment 498980


Time to start attacking some of the little rust patches. Maybe hit the wheels and lowers next weekend. Attachment 498981

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Originally Posted by Name Redacted

I would say this is more dull and rounded than sharp. Still wet this am. Maybe I went a little thicker than I should have, and it was colder last night. If it dries solid, it should be pretty good I think. I mainly did this to protect from rust while my Scout camper sits in there on top of a horse stall mat, so I'm not that worried about aesthetics.


Might have to order another bottle for the tailgate and bumper, which kinda pisses me off but whatever.

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Which version did you use? IIRC there's a nicer two part version, and then the original one part, which is what I used.

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Originally Posted by El Chupacabra

Which version did you use? IIRC there's a nicer two part version, and then the original one part, which is what I used.

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Yeah, I used the two part. I honestly feel like the mix was fucked up from the factory or something. Still drying, gotta leave the camper off a few more days for it to dry.

Added some new Baja Designs fog lights today.

Car battery time again gf's 2019 Camry. Appears she is still on the OEM battery. Showing signs of trouble. Tested at 10.9. , charged jumped right up to 13.5 but holding at 12.7

Going to get a new one, I've had pretty good luck with Walmart golds, even in my truck that sits around a lot. Put a Wally AGM in the other truck, running well a year out.

Makes me wonder about the OEM and if whatever I would get from a dealer would be the same or not. Got a solid 5 years of super short trips on her shopping runs. Can't get a price today for the holiday but if within $40 or so of the Wally considering getting it.

There are only a handful of auto battery factories around the world. They each make a few quality levels. Pay more and get something better, it's similar enough from one brand to another at a particular price point to not worry about the name on the side.