Printable View
Does the dust shield around brake rotors actually serve a purpose or is it just an annoying as fuck place for small rocks to get wedged in between it and your brake rotor? I had to take wheels off my truck and my wife's car in the last week due to that issue!
Well, it also rattles nicely.
I’ve taken it off old cars and never missed it. I’m sure it did something good though.
low boost code on my transit 3.5 ecoboost. yay. hopefully not a huge deal. extended powertrain warrenty will come in handy
bozeman ford 3 MONTHS out for service. insane. visiting mom in nys now so getting it in next week,
Final update and the cure for my 2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD vibration saga: the tires. Which is where I started looking... and ruled them out because they were a street tread brand new, and Discount Tire kept replacing them under warranty for roundness.
Longer version: had the rear driveshaft rebuilt and balanced, replaced passenger rear hub bearings, races, and hub seal (I had replaced that seal previously, but failed to notice the bearings had worn out to a point of sloppiness causing the new seal to fail again). Discount Tire replaced yet another out of round tire (fourth replacement, making a total of 8 of these that I went through). None of this fixed all of the 45-55 mph vibes - - improved, yes, but not gone.
At a point of frustration, decided to rotate tires fore/aft - - even though I'd had all four of the tires replaced under warranty and balanced on a road force machine. The vibration changed.
So, I swapped my winter tire set onto the truck. Vibration nearly gone. (They're a cheap set of Chinese made GT Radial IcePRO.)
Back to Discount to ask for a replacement of all the tires, with some other brand. They said they had to spin up the tires on the balancer to observe out of round - - they got as far as the first one, which was visibly hopping, and the manager called it and decided not to bother testing the other three. They ordered new tires.
Today, had the new tires installed - and the truck is totally smooth. They're a little buzzy, as they are an all terrain instead of the highway tread that wasn't round, but I'll put up with that. No out of pocket cost to me.
New tires: Pirelli Scorpion All Terrain Plus. Old egg shaped tires: Kumho Crugen HT51. Both E rated, both 265-70-17, both 3PMSF marked.
Saga, indeed. Nice to finally get a positive outcome.
I bought a new Tacoma in 2000. OEM tires were Goodyear Wrangler somethings. Went back and forth from dealer to Goodyear tire shop with each blaming the other trying to get a vibration resolved. Dealer finally put a new set of Michelins on to fix the issue.
I needed new tires for my '77 C20 and because I was still running 16.5 rims it was time to replace them as well. I found new Dorman OEM wheels for about $90 each at Summit and 4 235-85-16 Armstrong Tru Tracs for under $500 shipped, they look nothing like the original Tru Tracs, I'm sure are made in Singapore , and will wear quickly, but the truck is driven less than 2000 miles a year so I think they'll do just fine.
Attachment 498333
Attachment 498335
More fun with my bmw 128i. The starter went out 3 weeks ago and due to a long string of travel I just got a chance to get it swapped.
It is buried under the intake manifold which is a complicated 3 stage valved unit that all has to come out. I finally got down to it and had to fight an e torx bolt installed from the firewall side to get the starter out. I had to buy a short e14 socket and use a flex head ratchet to get to it. After about 4 hours of work it is mostly back together and fired right up. I am too tired for a test drive but hope I didn’t miss a connector somewhere in there.
Attachment 498343Attachment 498343
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
My daughter Charlotte texting my wife.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Auto/Rand...MG_1160-X4.jpg
I think we are doing something right.
Did you point out the finer details that the 68 grill and tail are better tho...?
Hideaway headlights though.
For 16, she has some excellent taste. Definitely born in the wrong era.
Not sure if this is the right thread, let me know if it’s not. Some clear liquid is leaking from the somewhat downturned elbow in the middle of the pic. This is right behind the passenger side front wheel. My guess is it’s related to the AC since it’s right behind the dash but it happens when I’m not running the AC. Any guesses? Coolant levels don’t appear to be dropping. 2015 Seirra 1500 https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...17ebb7f66d.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3dadfe817b.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
defrost mode will run the a/c too. That looks like the condensate drain and what you've described sounds normal. If it smells and tastes like water, you're good
^^^ Yup, AC drain. Not sure I would taste it, though.
Ah. That checks out cause I did have the defroster on last night. Did not realize that’ll kick on the AC. Appreciate itQuote:
Originally Posted by caulfield
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What is the standard best practice for replacing a wheel bearing? This is for an 09 4runner.
The job itself looks very straight forward. In the video I watched they changed the bearing and hub assembly. In theory I just need to do the bearing but don't have the tools to extract the bearing.. so does it just make more sense to spend an additional ~$60 for the complete assembly instead of the bearing by itself?
Front or rear?Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust
If a unit hub and bearing assembly is available, do that (ie front). Autozone will have specialty loaner tools you can use.
On this rig, yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
How are your axle rubber boots? Because that would be the time to replace the axles too.
You better have some decent breaker bars or high torque impact. Videos never show the 200 f-bombs launched when crawling on the ground trying to create leverage on not so new fasteners.Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust
Front. Would I need specialty tools though if replacing the entire assembly? It just looked like there would be some banging to actually get the unit off the axle but other than that looked fairly straight forward.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Rubber boots seem good.Quote:
Originally Posted by heckacali
Yea the axle nut is slightly concerning for sure. This was an Arizona vehicle until 2020, and I've managed grime/rust pretty well since, so not your typical 15y/o rust bucket. Hoping that pays off, but guess you never know until you're in the trenches.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatnslow
I did the whole hub assembly with the bearing preinstalled on an 05 Tacoma. It was a while ago but I don't remember it being very hard or needing specialty tools other than a big socket for the axle nut.
Edit: I'd second doing new cv axles as well while you're there. It's a 15 year old vehicle. My boots looked fine up until the moment they didn't, which happened to be at 15 years.
I just did 07 taco axles today, 2.5 hrs start to finish.
Changing the unit wheel bearings would have added zero time as they were coming out anyway.
But I have all the tools, a super heavy duty impact, and I've done them several times.
Front unit hub assembly is easy. A breaker bar or impact gun will make it faster. Do not use an impact to tighten the axle nut. Do use a torque wrench on the axle nut.
All in all the job seems very straight forward. Doing the axles on jack stands doesn't make me very stoked though.
Stupid question: When you slip the axle out and lose a bunch of gear oil do you normally just drain all of it and refill per manufacturer recommendations? Otherwise how much would you know to add?
EoB - I got all that stuff in the shop if ya wanna work over here. Or you can borrow it...
I debated changing some brake pads this weekend but that shite can wait. Holla.