PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

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Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum

Finally got around to mounting the Bent Chet 120s I picked up last year, plus the 85s I got this year. The plastic patterns from Slidewright are definitely easier to use than paper, but finding centerline remains a pain in the arse. I used a combination square with a second square on it with reasonable success, but it still seems fiddly.

I found the centerline tool from Slidewright helpful to verify that I had drawn a reasonable centerline and that my hole marks were equidistant from the edges before drilling, and less so for attempting to actually find and mark the line (as getting the arms to just the right width and tightening them in place was less than easy, but using it as a measuring tool with the arms loose was relatively effective).

I'm happy with the results in terms of centering and placement but now realizing that I didn't get the math ideal in how much room I have to go bigger than my 305mm boots, as I'm about 5mm from maxed out. My feet aren't growing, so not a big issue, but I was hoping to maximize flexibility in the 30mm range to reach 285-315mm. Instead, I think I'm looking at 280-310mm.

The 120s are at -2 from the factory recommendation and the 85s are on the factory line. I'm curious to see how that works, especially on the 120s, as my last pair was mounted on the factory line.Attachment 443056

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I've found the best way to use the centerline tool is to find the size you need with the tool loose, remove the tool from the ski, precisely tighten it then slide the tool into position from the skinnier part of the ski.

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Originally Posted by ASmileyFace

I've found the best way to use the centerline tool is to find the size you need with the tool loose, remove the tool from the ski, precisely tighten it then slide the tool into position from the skinnier part of the ski.

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This, plus rotate it 180 degrees to double check your mark. If it’s a match, you are golden. If not, split the difference for center.


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Originally Posted by ASmileyFace

I've found the best way to use the centerline tool is to find the size you need with the tool loose, remove the tool from the ski, precisely tighten it then slide the tool into position from the skinnier part of the ski.

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Why do you need a specific location/precision ? I just run a piece of masking tape down the center of the ski, find the center at two points on the tape and draw a straight line connecting them.

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Originally Posted by slcdawg

I've never mounted a solly. [emoji846] so do you tighten until the toe wings barely touch the boot?

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I had a verbose response, but this is probably better as it also details forward pressure and toe height…

https://theskimonster.com/blog/posts...-ski-bindings/

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Originally Posted by spanky

Why do you need a specific location/precision ? I just run a piece of masking tape down the center of the ski, find the center at two points on the tape and draw a straight line connecting them.

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Doing as he describes allows putting more than two marks on the tape, which is helpful both to check your work and if your straight edge isn't as long as the mount pattern. So the specific location is more like "somewhere between the ski center and the next wider mark."

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I always make multiple centerline marks along the ski, because when I lay the straight edge down, I usually find one of them is off from the rest and I ignore it. So if that one "off" point is one of only two you marked, then your mount will be off center.

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Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum

Doing as he describes allows putting more than two marks on the tape, which is helpful both to check your work and if your straight edge isn't as long as the mount pattern. So the specific location is more like "somewhere between the ski center and the next wider mark."

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Ah. Me no read gud. Sorry about that.

I thought the OP was marking a precise location on the ski. Not, precisely setting the centering tool.

What he describes is exactly what I did with my double combination square.

This method someone else described using a speed square is pretty quick and foolproof. Basically this youtube video but instead of drawing a line, just put a heavy soup can or something on top of the ski and back the square up to it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnPv2dAWQnc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnPv2dAWQnc

Set can on ski, back up square edge to it, trace 45 degree edge.

Flip square over without moving can, back up square edge to it on the other side, trace 45 degree edge.

X marks your center. Do it again on the other end of the ski and connect the dots.

Mounted some new (to me) Meridians, on the line. Was going to mount STH2's but hole pattern didn't work with the first mount. Ended up using some older FKS's and had to bend the brakes with a seatpost to fit. I normally measure from tip and tail to verify the center mount line and double check both skis are mounted the same. Moment makes that very hard with their funky tips and tails. :confused:

Attachment 443310

Mounted E104s with Warden 13 demos using greg's template. No issues, the slidewright tools made everything a breeze. Only thing is the adjustable bit collars are very stiff (this is probably a good thing) so it took a few tries to get them set at 9.5 mm.

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Originally Posted by ApexSkua

Mounted E104s with Warden 13 demos using greg's template. No issues, the slidewright tools made everything a breeze. Only thing is the adjustable bit collars are very stiff (this is probably a good thing) so it took a few tries to get them set at 9.5 mm.

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You use the paper template or the 3d printed one?

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Originally Posted by Duffman

You use the paper template or the 3d printed one?

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Paper. My printer was acting up so I had to redraw some of the lines. It still matched the binding

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Originally Posted by ApexSkua

Mounted E104s with Warden 13 demos using greg's template. No issues, the slidewright tools made everything a breeze. Only thing is the adjustable bit collars are very stiff (this is probably a good thing) so it took a few tries to get them set at 9.5 mm.

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Attachment 444232
Adding pics. Here's the bit that came in the SlideWright kit:
Attachment 444233

Also dumb question, what is the minimum distance between holes when remounting, is 30mm ok?

Everyone will have their own opinion.
On Cochise's (and a few others I can't exactly recall) I've had touching/slight-overlap holes, and no problem.
Note that I fill holes with epoxy and bamboo skewers, so they're not plastic plugs or empty holes. Also, I put a lot of epoxy in the hole when I mount.
Finally, the Cochise isn't a balsa/foam/marshmallow core that some weight weenies favor ("Playful." cough, cough).

I think the typical response is 10mm center-to-center should be good.

what size bit did you end up using on the Kore's?

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Originally Posted by ezramec

Mounted my own skis 2x today with paper mounts, and the Kores turned out awesome. But:

On a pair of Volkl Blazes, I was reusing 2/4 of the toe holes to move from Griffons to Griffon Demos. I re-used the top two holes, and drilled the lower holes, but must have wound up ~1 or 2mm off. With a bit of a sideways push on the plate, I can get all four screws in - is that too much cross pressure on the plate?

Searched for it, am sure it's been asked, but couldn't find.

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Any pointers on mounting the Kores? I have a pair of Kore 93's and a set of Armada STH 13's.

Honestly the Kores felt very straightforward. I used the Wintersteiger bit and tap, spent a very long time double checking the template, and everything else was easy. Used a drill bit as my “punch” to make a mark - hammered it on the line to give myself an indent.

The collar on the Wintersteiger was a lifesaver because it meant I could focus on drilling straight instead of worrying about drilling through.


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Originally Posted by ezramec

Honestly the Kores felt very straightforward. I used the Wintersteiger bit and tap, spent a very long time double checking the template, and everything else was easy. Used a drill bit as my “punch” to make a mark - hammered it on the line to give myself an indent.

The collar on the Wintersteiger was a lifesaver because it meant I could focus on drilling straight instead of worrying about drilling through.


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Which size Wintersteiger bit did you use? 4.1 or 3.5?

Also, I've heard some horror stories of bindings popping out of Kores, so I'm considering inserts. I'm not sure if that issue has been resolved by Head in more recent incarnations of the skis.

I think I did the 4.1 with the 12AB tap because it had a metal layer.

Oddly the skis specs (printed somewhere on the top sheet) recommend a 3.5 IIRC, but the 4.1 was great and I had them checked by a local shop.


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Originally Posted by ezramec

...was great and I had them checked by a local shop.

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What were their comments on the thread retention at 4.1mm? Curious if they did a teardown for analysis.

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Originally Posted by bio-smear

What were their comments on the thread retention at 4.1mm? Curious if they did a teardown for analysis.

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FYI, 4.1mm is the diameter of the alpine screw shaft. 5.5mm is the thread diameter.

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Originally Posted by ApexSkua

Mounted E104s with Warden 13 demos using greg's template. No issues, the slidewright tools made everything a breeze. Only thing is the adjustable bit collars are very stiff (this is probably a good thing) so it took a few tries to get them set at 9.5 mm.

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You can dial them in by loosening the clamp screw and feather in or out the drill bit using a variable speed drill against a gauge or mark, etc.

Anyone know what length BF screws I need for for a CAST mount? I am only using inserts in the toes due to hole conflict. I’m pretty sure it’s the 16mm flat head (non reduced) can anyone confirm please?

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Originally Posted by eskido

Anyone know what length BF screws I need for for a CAST mount? I am only using inserts in the toes due to hole conflict. I’m pretty sure it’s the 16mm flat head (non reduced) can anyone confirm please?

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Flathead 16mm confirmed.


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Originally Posted by banzai

Flathead 16mm confirmed.


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Awesome, Thank You!!!