Nice!! Looks great :)Quote:
Originally Posted by slcdawg
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Nice!! Looks great :)Quote:
Originally Posted by slcdawg
Meh.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
One extra step I don’t need. Once the chamfer hits it’s pretty easy to stop drilling if you know how to feel your tool.
Have been working on this since middle school, but not really sure how it relates to mounting skis?Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
How much torque are you applying when turning the screw epoxy has set?Quote:
Originally Posted by vonn
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Thank you! This is a really helpful tool, appreciate you sharing your design and making it available!Quote:
Originally Posted by MottN
Decided to pull the trigger on a used pair of Moment Deathwish Tour 112s to replace my portly Voile Chargers with old Dynafit Verticals.
Mounted them at -1 with a pair of Salomon MTNs w/brakes.
Kind of a tricky mount due to the forward-center screw that holds down the brakes. I followed the recommendation on Wildsnow to go 57mm forward of the front heel screws- did a practice ski first and it was spot on.
I like a fairly neutral delta angle. BnD doesn't make shims for a Salomon MTN, so I fabricated some out of a cutting board, ground down some longish screws to proper size and it turned out pretty slick...
Attachment 442144
Attachment 442152Attachment 442150Attachment 442151
Nice!
When I epoxy a screw (spinner, or too close to an old mount), I paint the head of the screw red with a paint marker.
That way when I’m removing the binding, I know that screw is fixed in place with epoxy, and will need a bit of heat to remove.
Attachment 442268
This may have been answered earlier, but anyone use an optical center punch with the paper templates, or is that overkill?
As a self proclaimed tool nerd, I'm ashamed that I had to google "Optical Punch"Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
My answer is no, there is no need for anything to be that precise in binding mounting. A standard spring punch will be all you need, even a punch and hammer will get you close enough.
A good optical punch video:
No, but one tip someone posted here was to use thick paper for a template and then poke a little hole in the center with something sharp (needle, safety pin) so when you go to center punch the tip of the punch can find the little perforation and you won't miss the mark.Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
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never heard of an optical centerpunch either
3" drywall screw makes a good center punch IME
the end is sharp/ fine and a whole bag is pretty cheap
Your eyes are the most accurate tool you have in your kit.
Everyone should have a spring punch.
Why is everyone still using heat on epoxied screws when you have release agents all over the house?
I've been using a hammer and a regular ol' punch forever and have never had an issue. An optical punch seems like mega overkill but to each their own.
Found some cheap skis on Sierra for a touring setup for my middle schooler. They have a nice rocker profile, looks like a fun soft snow ski.
Attachment 443046
Finally got around to mounting the Bent Chet 120s I picked up last year, plus the 85s I got this year. The plastic patterns from Slidewright are definitely easier to use than paper, but finding centerline remains a pain in the arse. I used a combination square with a second square on it with reasonable success, but it still seems fiddly.
I found the centerline tool from Slidewright helpful to verify that I had drawn a reasonable centerline and that my hole marks were equidistant from the edges before drilling, and less so for attempting to actually find and mark the line (as getting the arms to just the right width and tightening them in place was less than easy, but using it as a measuring tool with the arms loose was relatively effective).
I'm happy with the results in terms of centering and placement but now realizing that I didn't get the math ideal in how much room I have to go bigger than my 305mm boots, as I'm about 5mm from maxed out. My feet aren't growing, so not a big issue, but I was hoping to maximize flexibility in the 30mm range to reach 285-315mm. Instead, I think I'm looking at 280-310mm.
The 120s are at -2 from the factory recommendation and the 85s are on the factory line. I'm curious to see how that works, especially on the 120s, as my last pair was mounted on the factory line.Attachment 443056
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Attachment 443063Attachment 443064
Remounted some new to me OG Bodacious today. Stoked for a fresh pair with good edges, but its my last pair. Time to start hunting for more.
Puppyyyyyyyy.
what ski is that?Quote:
Originally Posted by slcdawg
Majesty velvet- recently learned that they are based out of southern Poland and actually operate out of the same factory my grandfather worked at way back in the day.Quote:
Originally Posted by ~mikey b
Never tried them but they have an interesting design/ mount point that make them super stable yet agile.
Side profile looks like it will be fun in the soft. $200 at Sierra. 1750g per ski for the 170's. I will be returning a set of 162's to Sierra unless someone wants them (they are sold out of the 162).Quote:
Originally Posted by old mexico
Attachment 443070
3” is overkill.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
1.5” drywall screw will be fine.
But yeah. Screws or nails are great centerpunchers once you lay out the printed template.
Gonna be mounting some STH2's for the first time and have a question about the toe wing adjustment. SkiMonster's howto guide that says you want the toe wings to just barely make contact with the ski boot shell. But the tech manual says they are self adjusting. Which is it?
Attachment 443141
When I have set these up on my own skis the initial adjustment was more or less the same as an older Salomon. The only difference with the STH2 was that the wings self center so you are adjusting both at once rather than each side individually. I think that's what they mean by self-adjusting.Quote:
Originally Posted by slcdawg
I've never mounted a solly. 🙂 so do you tighten until the toe wings barely touch the boot?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinned