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I made the collars the ideal size for the task depth at hand with the bit all the way in the chuck. Drilling with the bit not all the way in is gonna end bad sometimes.. really bad.. Got two on a bits in my tuning gear box I've been using for 20+ years. One's for jr skis, one's for adult skis. Probably 30 pairs of skis with no OOPS.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
yeah so the selection of the standard wine bottle cork for your drill collar ensures there is enough bit in the chuck to prevent a catastrophe, but if some dentist from colorado trying to save money on a ski mount can't run a drill without fucking up
I certainly wouldn't want his hands in my mouth, just sayn
Is a wine bottle cork just a really long drill collar that doesnt need a setscrew ?
I think the dentist would just spend the $20 on the stepped bit... but I'm no dentist so what do I know?Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
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even the one asking about drill collars with the itty bitty setscrew that slips ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
Quick question as I am crossed between how tight I need properly screw the bindings into a ski…. Haha
My skis have printed on them to only us 4nm of torque but I’ve also been told to make sure the binding is flush and not coming off the ski. To get the binding flat it requires a lot more than 4nm but I’m not spinning any of the screws when I achieve that. Im not going crazy on it but it’s pretty damn hand tight when it’s all said and done
Only mounting pivots and I know the metal base is all that you want flush.
I havent torn a binding out and have skied all of my mounts pretty hard but these new dynastars are telling me that YGD
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Is your top sheet flat? If you didn't chamfer/tap the holes, then you're probably working against the volcanoes forming while you're cranking those screws down.
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I hope I’m understanding correctly. I’ve had that happen when I haven’t held the binding down tight enough as I’m screwing the screw in. It’s like it gets bound going through the hole in the binding (always when going through metal). Now I run the screws through the binding a time or two to loosen up the hole before I try to mount it and haven’t had the problem again. 4nm and they’re sucked down flush. I tap regardless of metal or no metal in the ski and having the screw a bit loose and not bind on the binding holes makes it easier to hit the threads too.Quote:
Originally Posted by old mexico
Sounds like that could be it. The first two I did I replaced the toe/afd bases and brake assemblies to new. The screws would stick in them when turned in slightly. I do apply downward pressure on them while screwing then into the ski.
I also do not chamfer/tap the holes but none have had metal that I have encountered this with. These Mpro 105s I got do and I figured I’d ask before I mount up anymore. Thank you
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first set of non indie sticks ive bought n mounted in a long time
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
managed to smack a stump/log pretty good on the first day
compressed the base pretty good but didnt core shot
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
not sure if the edge woulda survived
ptexed em up and gonna ski em again today
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds
IME sometimes the screw gets hung up in binding holes and the plastic shim rides up the screw threads away from the ski instead of snugging down to the ski no matter how many nm's you use, usually I just take the screws out and try again, you could also try running a drill bit or file thru the binding holes very SLIGHTLY just enough so the screws do not hang up on the binding shim during instal, if you took out the screw you might have a volcano, remove it with something sharpQuote:
Originally Posted by old mexico
when you are reinserting screws in a previously used hole if you very gently turn the screw backwards in the hole you should be able to feel where the screw threads start, when you feel the screw drop you are in the beginning of the thread so you can tighten up that screw without cutting more threads becuz cutting more threads is more likely to cause a spinner
Once you buy a ski bit you’ll never go back.Quote:
Originally Posted by vonn
Guaranteed depth. And also it chamfers the hole so no dimples.
If you can drill straight I can’t see the need for a guide.
Ski bit for the win. Drill press plus ski bit and tap makes the process stupid easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
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Yeah... the guy with disposable income should spring for the proper solution of the correct bit... over drill collars and wine corks.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
All can work fine the the proper bit is close to impossible to fuck up.
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Ski bit is well worth the money as insurance from f'ing up a ski.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
Having a brilliant friend with a drill press, laser cutter, and 3d printer is priceless.
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Tried searching, couldn't find an answer that looked reliable. Does the Strive 14 GW share a hole pattern with any other Amer products, or is it unique?
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warden 11
yes exactly ^^ there are a number of ways to put a hole in a ski and still people who buy all the stuff but don't really understand what they are doing manage to fuck it upQuote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
Yup.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Do you think those people would be better off with $20 less or a wine cork where the chance of mistake is higher?
Does using a wine cork make them more knowledgeable?
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Not all bits have a chamfer shoulder on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
In my 7-8 bits only 1/2 of them have the chamfer shoulder, the others are flat.
I'd rather have flat anyway and use a separate chamfer bit.... to avoid drilling the main holes too deep, then flat shoulder is safer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
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I think a wine cork makes them less likely to fuck upQuote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
if you have problems with alcohol and don't like the wine bottle method drilling a hole thru any piece of 1 & 1/2 inch wood will also act as a collar
These stops are pretty bomber and reliable:
https://www.slidewright.com/prodimag..._set_large.jpg
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those collars actualy look like they won't slip ^^^
I don't buy anything on the internet and shipped from a foreign county so the only drill collars I could find at the local HW store were slightly oversized washers
they were just thick enough to have an allen set screw and they slipped but I supose they were designed to go place a larger collar couldn't fit
First try with the fiberglass fix didn't work out, I think leaving the heel piece on was probably an issue. Stuffed a bunch fiberglass threads into marine epoxy till it was a paste and then stuffed the hole before putting the screw in and tightening to just before it spun. When I took the screw back out after 24 hours it looked like a chunk of the epoxy settled between the top of the hole and the plastic of the heel piece where the screw shank enters. It did seem to have more bite at first, but eventually spun. Will see how try two goes with the heel piece off...Quote:
Originally Posted by vonn
I mounted a couple of pair of skis using MottN's printable jig. Pretty slick! Previously I had done several tech and alpine mounts using paper templates. I tend to over analyze the center line and lining up the paper templates perfectly. The jig self centers and saved me a bunch of time.
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