Taking the brake off and greasing the spring mechanism definitely improves performance. Still not great but better.
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Taking the brake off and greasing the spring mechanism definitely improves performance. Still not great but better.
You may be right, Westcoaster. Latching the brakes out of the way by hand are still a bit awkward ergonomics for smaller people like my sister. Here's a video of a technique that involves bracing the ski before pushing down with your palm that may help small people. Gloves/mittens might make it a little trickier.Quote:
Originally Posted by Westcoaster
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPSt04aBctM
Tomorrow I'll be able to compare side-by-side the current race model heel flap vs a 2017-18 version.Quote:
Originally Posted by timmaio
But I think you would agree that the key with any of these is to keep the torx-head bolt sufficiently tight so that the heel flap stays flat/closed while skinning?
Otherwise it can flip up vertically that get broken by a boot heel stomping down on it.
(If the heel flap stays on the heel pins as intended while touring, sure seemed impossible to break.)
Correction to my earlier post: the new 4mm shims with longer screws (for 21/22) with fit the Freeraider 16/14's, the Raider 12's and the Front 12 but it will not fit the C-Raider 12 as that has a different shape base.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
I'll be continuing to make/supply shims for the C-Raider in 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm or 6mm with appropriately longer screws ;)
Haven't skied the new ones, but I thought the old brakes were great if odd looking. Who cares as long as they work?Quote:
Originally Posted by chill winston
Are those photos from this season?
The arch has been changed to prevent any contact with anything other than the heel pins. In the past there was stress placed on the arms which can cause it to break even without the traditional mechanism of breaking(flap partly up and being stepped on)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan S.
Ah, interesting, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by timmaio
The change must have occurred before the 2017-18 season, because my old heel flaps have that same arch as the current model.
(I did notice that the small cut-out is on the underside of my old heel flaps as compared to the top of the new heel flaps, but that doesn't seem to be making any significant difference.)
https://www.haganskimountaineering.c...EpDlPPeuYVZkUo
Hagan coming out with the Core 10 which has a toe plate with multiple positioning options. At 390g its only 40g heavier than the standard Core/Raider 12, which is pretty good considering a toe shim weighs 30g. For me the ability to move the toe forward for tight trees and back for deep powder and open slopes is very appealing.
You're gonna adjust your mount point based on what you are skiing? Sounds like a solution in search of a problem to me. I see the appeal, if say, you share skis in your family, but I'll stick to bindings with one less moving part.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benneke10
I wouldn't be constantly moving back and forth but maybe have them forward for early season low angle/ tight trees and move back as more exciting terrain opens up.Quote:
Originally Posted by snowaddict91
At the very least, this offers the ability to adjust your mount point. For gear finnickers, this seems like a great feature. Binding looks burly though. They should just make an adjustment plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by snowaddict91
Takes place of a toe shim as well, less ramp. Kinda cool.
they do https://www.atkbindings.com/en/prodo...essories/r013/Quote:
Originally Posted by CirqueScaler
Searched the thread to no avail. Does anyone know if there is a substitute grease to use for the binding lubrication? I can probably order through Hagan, but seems much simpler to just go to Napa
White lithium
Thanks buttahflake
Just to make it easy, here is a link for lubricating the brakes on a crest
http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=768w6eFdK78
And the heel on crest and raiders
http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7LgFke01yU
No worries
I did contact atk about using an AL05 spacer with the crest 10 and this is their response:
I don’t suggest you to use an AL05 with a CREST 10 because you will drill it in a position where you don’t need to fill the gap with the sole boot, exactly in the concave angle.
In addition to this, the AL05 spacer should be installed with a pair of skis large in the central part at least 95-100 mm.
For this reason, usually, the spacers are drilled with free touring/free ride gear.
If anybody in Europe (CH preferrably) needs a ATK freeride spacer (AL05), I have an extra one, new in the wrapper with screws.
Edit: a pair, obviously.
A few weeks ago I was complaining about how the elasticity springs in my Hagan Pure/Crest bindings were really soft and squishy, and friends who have the same bindings all had varying degrees of squishiness. I even took them in to SkimoCo where I tested mine against a demo pair they had, both were very soft but mine were a bit softer. Hagan told me that there was a "batch" of springs from ATK that were too soft and replaced mine for free. The original springs I had were silver, as are the springs of all my friends who had bought them fall 2020 or earlier. The replacement springs are black MUCH stiffer, would not mistake them for my old ones or the springs on any of my friends bindings.
Anyhoo, I just got a new pair of Crests and they came with stiffer springs, painted black. I don't think that the soft springs were just from one "batch," and it looks like they quietly made an update. If you have silver elasticity springs you might want to reach out and get some black ones.
I currently ski ATK Trofeos and really like them. Have probably 150-200k ft on them, and I've never had a problem with them. Like I literally have not had a problem with them. Which is exactly what I want out of a binding. And I don't really want to fiddle with a binding, either - heel riser up, heel riser down, heel rotated, heel rotated back, middle heel riser up, high heel riser up, etc. - during a skin. It just seems tedious.
Given this, do you all think that there's a lot of advantage to the elasticity of the Crest? Weight-wise, that's probably as high as I would go, and only because we can get them cheap through various methods. If I had to pay full price, I'd want to try the much-talked-about Ski Trab Varios.
Thanks all.
I also have trofeos and crests (run breakless, bought before the Release 10 was a thing). I only notice the crest as skiing better in two cases. When in funky dense snow that is constantly cambering and decambering the ski. Similar to having a more progressive fork on the bike in rock gardens etc. The other place I notice the crest as being noticable is if you have a really soft ski. I have found the spring helps take-up some of the extra flexing of the ski underfoot and prevents prerelease.
Moving forward I would buy crests for the flexibility if I can get similar pricing. The extra 50g without brakes is worth it for me to get adjustable vert RV and the ability to have slightly more piece of mind about prerelease on my ski noodles
I wish someone in NA was doing better comms for ATK. All companies have issues with new bindings, and ATK IMHO has comparatively few issues compared to G3/Dynafit etc - but it would be nice for *someone* affiliated with ATK to be posting in an official capacity about this inline changes. Transparency is always best...Quote:
Originally Posted by Benneke10
It's downright cartoonish how good ATK is at making bindings and how bad they are at literally every other aspect of their business. Product line management (Thom has to keep a 32-tab spreadsheet to track minute changes between models), advertising, recalls, customer communication, etc. Small wonder they come from the country that brought us Fiat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Westcoaster
you're the dude who only skis a 78mm ski in all conditions, right? by my calculations the extra 50g will result in a net change of .03% less shitty snow for you to spray about when everyone else is too busy mountain biking and climbing. tough call to make there.Quote:
Originally Posted by CirqueScaler
i ski release 10's and i love 'em. can't say if they're better or worse or whatever, but agonizing over 50g differences is internet wankery at it's finest. IMO the freeride spacer makes a bigger difference than any sort of heel elasticity, but i'm even too lazy to bother putting that on. maybe next year.
yeah, the 8 RV I run is pretty firm for me, and I think the 6 would be too soft. Not ideal. I've talked about this w/ a ski partner.Quote:
Originally Posted by Climbers Right
Good point, except for thinking that this is agony. Just like walking uphill, I love the pain, even if it's stupid.Quote:
Originally Posted by tgapp
I can't speak for elasticity, but the one thing I really prefer about the crest over the trofeo is that if you spin the heel you get flat mode and high riser with just your ski pole. I hate having to turn the trofeo heel piece if I want to switch. Even if I only have to do it once it's awkward and hard to turn. I think some of the other ATK offerings have this setup too but I have lost track of them all at this point.Quote:
Originally Posted by CirqueScaler
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Every one needs to be spun to get flat mode.
... Thom
How low is the unspun lowest mode?Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
Low enough. Pin heightQuote:
Originally Posted by hafjell
But once you have spun it once, you just flip the riser up and have it. No extra spinning required rk get the high riser. On the trofeo you spin 90 degrees to flat mode, but if you want a riser you have to spin it again.Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
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That was my point. How many tech binders are out there where you can get flat mode without some sort of reaching down to the heel piece?Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
Tectons/Vipecs? I'm sure they are one or two others, but they're in the minority.
... Thom
Agree to disagree. The bindings are "fine," but I don't understand the hype surrounding them. Their QC is demonstrably not very good, they're shitty communicators, their website is loaded with pseudo-technical info, while lacking in the real kind, they can't maintain a consistent product line for more than 3 months, but they have the resources to sell their bindings to every ski company under the sun to re-badge, etc. I'm going to think long and hard before I buy another pair of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by tgapp
The Crest 10's I bought from Spyderjon a couple months ago have silver springs. They did feel a little soft when I've been skiing them, but I assumed that was just because it's a 300g binding and it's inherently not going to ski that well/powerfully. I suppose I should look into getting those springs replaced though.
Ah sorry I see. Yeah tecton/vipecs were my first touring bindings so was a little spoiled with ease of risers.Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
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Yeah, I spent most of two years just skiing Vipecs, and I got pretty used to the convenience of being able to pop my heel and leave my toe in for long skate exits, lock in my heel whenever I wanted to downskin, and access flat mode with just my pole. But they're pretty unique in that regard, it's not a standard feature for touring bindings at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaches
That said, after most of a season in Freeraiders, the benefits of ATK's system outweigh those small conveniences, for me at least.
How thick are they?Quote:
Originally Posted by Benneke10
A lot of good info in this thread! I'm looking for a recommendation on the Crest vs Raider for a dedicated touring setup (Volkl Blaze 106 with Maestrale RS boots). I'm 5'10" 165lbs mostly CO meadow skipper with some bigger spring lines (currently running DF Vertical ST's with no complaints). I was planning on getting the Crest until reading about some of the heal piece durability issues and that the Raider may have better/easier riser functionality. Wondering if the Raider is worth the extra cost and more durable in the long run? (I don't care about the small weight penalty)
Side question: Would the Raider be an acceptable resort ski on a soft day? My primary goal is a dedicated touring setup, but it might be nice to have the option for hiking up and riding lifts in the morning.
Appreciate any feedback. Cheers!
What benefits are you talking about?Quote:
Originally Posted by cydwhit
So how do you hand test the compensation spring? I have a pair of helio 350 mounted I can move the heel aft with some force, not a ton. And a pair of unmounted fr14 that I can not get to move holding in two hands and applying as much pressure as I wish for unmounted bindings. May do a 2x4 mount to check. Short question maybe is, did any springs make it into the rear brake raider heel?Quote:
Originally Posted by Benneke10
I only tested bindings that were mounted. You probably couldn't get the squishy spring to move on an unmounted binding. I feel like they may have better QC on the Helio 350/ Raider heel since its their flagship product but I don't knowQuote:
Originally Posted by cat in january
just got a new R12. looks like the changed the drilling pattern in the front? If I remember correctly, it used to be square?
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