Ask the experts

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Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

About to embark on the full rebuild of my DVO Diamond fork. Got everything but the 2.5wt oil for the damper. It's an oddball blend that no one has locally. I don't want to wait for the mail since I need to do this rebuild now if I want to ride this week. I have 3wt rock shox oil. Other than it maybe fractionally slowing down the damper is there any real reason I can't use this? I saw on other forums that there is hardly any viscosity difference between 3wt and 5wt or 7wt. Can't imagine any real difference between 2.5 and 3. I just don't want to damage anything if I can help it.

The fork is so overdue that it would benefit from new oil of any type VS it getting run as it is now. (ridden hard and put away dry? ;)

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1) if you really want to, you can blend different viscosities to customize. This will require math. Only do it with the same brands of oil.

2) viscosities aren't actually all that standardized. One brand's 5wt is closer to another brand's 7wt. If DVO doesn't specify a brand, then you're probably fine with the 3wt. More on that here: http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycle/fork-oil.html

3) 2.5 weight is pretty common. Just go to a moto shop. Should be easy to find some there.

Edit: 4) a quick Google search says DVO uses motorex 2.5wt which has a real viscosity of 14.5cst. That's the same weight as Torco RSF Lite, which I *think* is what you have (rockshox rebrands Torco oil). So I think you'll be good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toast2266

1) if you really want to, you can blend different viscosities to customize. This will require math. Only do it with the same brands of oil.

2) viscosities aren't actually all that standardized. One brand's 5wt is closer to another brand's 7wt. If DVO doesn't specify a brand, then you're probably fine with the 3wt. More on that here: http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycle/fork-oil.html

3) 2.5 weight is pretty common. Just go to a moto shop. Should be easy to find some there.

Edit: 4) a quick Google search says DVO uses motorex 2.5wt which has a real viscosity of 14.5cst. That's the same weight as Torco RSF Lite, which I *think* is what you have (rockshox rebrands Torco oil). So I think you'll be good.

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Sweet thanks. I'm gonna try it.

So I got a new-to-me Transition Smuggler. I am trying to fish the cable through the frame for the dropper post. I've tried everything I can think of. I thought for sure vacuum + fishing line would do the trick. But no dice. Do I HAVE to remove the bottom bracket? Is there some secret?

Now I remember why most people don't do their own full service on a fork. I'm at a stalemate with a certain part of the air cartridge that just will not open. It hasn't been opened since at the factory. Heat gun and pin spanner type of shenanigans. Thing will not fucking move. IDK what to do. Abandon and just put it back together? Was hoping to be riding this thing on Monday in UT.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcsquared

So I got a new-to-me Transition Smuggler. I am trying to fish the cable through the frame for the dropper post. I've tried everything I can think of. I thought for sure vacuum + fishing line would do the trick. But no dice. Do I HAVE to remove the bottom bracket? Is there some secret?

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Alloy? It's a bitch. I had to remove the BB, and stuck a rolled up piece of paper down the seat tube to block off the hole where the top tube connects, cause the bend was making the housing want to go into that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcsquared

So I got a new-to-me Transition Smuggler. I am trying to fish the cable through the frame for the dropper post. I've tried everything I can think of. I thought for sure vacuum + fishing line would do the trick. But no dice. Do I HAVE to remove the bottom bracket? Is there some secret?

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...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...098608ddf9.jpg

So I looked it up. Not an expert and didn’t even stay at the holiday inn. All Electrons generate magnetic fields but they only generate a net magnetic field when they are lined up.

I also remember there was this way to determine what the magnetic poles looked like in geologic history by looking at the alignment of the iron in seabed rocks that had formed from the lava outflows in the ocean. Plate tectonics and shit. Like diverging ridges you can date them with magnets, or something like that?

Now if you wanna know how that works you’re going to need a 3qt sauce pan, some water, some pepper and your parents’ permission to use the stove.

And it’s Lso funny that u get a bunch of ICP shit when you search for “how do magnets work”

Those lyrics are hard.

And I don’t wanna talk to a scientist
Y’all mother fuckers Lyin’
And getting me pissed

Good stuff.

https://youtu.be/h05SKJyzQL4


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian

Now I remember why most people don't do their own full service on a fork. I'm at a stalemate with a certain part of the air cartridge that just will not open. It hasn't been opened since at the factory. Heat gun and pin spanner type of shenanigans. Thing will not fucking move. IDK what to do. Abandon and just put it back together? Was hoping to be riding this thing on Monday in UT.

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I'll be interested to hear how you worked it out. I've got the same fork on my Smash and it'll need the same service in another month or two. Maybe try calling DVO and asking for a helpful hint? I hear they actually answer the phone and talk to customers, but I've not had to see for myself yet.

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Originally Posted by NuMexJoe

I'll be interested to hear how you worked it out. I've got the same fork on my Smash and it'll need the same service in another month or two. Maybe try calling DVO and asking for a helpful hint? I hear they actually answer the phone and talk to customers, but I've not had to see for myself yet.

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I can confirm DVO has great phone support. I had a question about my shock and whoever picked up just says hold on, yells for Ronnie…10 seconds later I had an answer.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by toast2266

...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...098608ddf9.jpg

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Ha! Finally got it. Intricate system of shoelaces, fishing line, small magnets and one of those plunger grabby things from Harbor Freight. I even did it twice because I put it in backwards the first time.

I landed a sweet yeti sb66 (medium) for my son to ride last summer. The shock, rp23, has something wrong with it. Not extended to full stroke, weird responses to changing pressure. I'm waiting for the LBS to give me a $$ to rebuild it but thinking it might be better/cheaper to find a new shock. I found a 2018 monarch plus rc3 with about 25 hrs that I think will do the trick. It is the right length, 8.5x2.5. The "code" on the box is AM RS MNRP RC3 216x63/8.5x2.5 DBMM B3. questions:
1) the ad says it is a debonair but also mentions solo air. I assume the "DB" means debonair. Is that right? And does that mean solo air isn't part of this shock. And do I care?
2) Is the "MM" for medium compression and rebound build? Is that ok for this bike and a 11 year old 100# kid. He is really starting to charge and will only get bigger.
3) Should I need other parts to make this swap?

While I screw with brakes and drivetrain stuff on our families bikes I have always left forks and shocks alone until now and relied on my LBS so I am new to this. TIA.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bluebird

I landed a sweet yeti sb66 (medium) for my son to ride last summer. The shock, rp23, has something wrong with it. Not extended to full stroke, weird responses to changing pressure. I'm waiting for the LBS to give me a $$ to rebuild it but thinking it might be better/cheaper to find a new shock. I found a 2018 monarch plus rc3 with about 25 hrs that I think will do the trick. It is the right length, 8.5x2.5. The "code" on the box is AM RS MNRP RC3 216x63/8.5x2.5 DBMM B3. questions:
1) the ad says it is a debonair but also mentions solo air. I assume the "DB" means debonair. Is that right? And does that mean solo air isn't part of this shock. And do I care?
2) Is the "MM" for medium compression and rebound build? Is that ok for this bike and a 11 year old 100# kid. He is really starting to charge and will only get bigger.
3) Should I need other parts to make this swap?

While I screw with brakes and drivetrain stuff on our families bikes I have always left forks and shocks alone until now and relied on my LBS so I am new to this. TIA.

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1) Solo Air is, as far as I know, only on Rockshox forks. So the rear shock is not solo air, and no, you shouldn't care. Debonair is the air spring. And yeah, I think it's a safe assumption that DB means Debonair. That's fine - pretty much all of the newer Rockshox stuff is Debonair.
2) I'm not sure what the stock tune on an SB66 is, but for a 100 pound kid, I'm pretty sure you'll want a light / light tune. Or better yet, get a coil shock. Air shocks don't work great for super light riders - too much stiction in the seals, and the shocks aren't really designed to work properly at the super low air pressures you have to run.
3) you're going to need the appropriate shock hardware for the frame. I'm 60% sure the hardware from your rp23 will work with the Rockshox. You might need to get new DU bushings, which any decent shop should have in stock.

SRAM/ RockShox has this handy website where you can enter the serial #, and they'll tell you what the guts are (or at least were when it left the factory):
https://trailhead.rockshox.com/en/search/

I don't know if that works for rear shocks or just forks. But dig around on their website, they have lots of good info and manuals available.

Thanks. I tried to enter the serial # for the shock but it doesn't seem to work. Its a neat app for my fork though.

The rp3 is indicated as the following; Boost valve 175, velocity tune "L" and Rebound tune "L". I also read in a couple spots on old MTBR threads that yeti recommended MM for rockshox shocks. But those all dated back to 14/15 years.

I haven't found a coil that is the right length but I'll keep looking.

Riddle me this. I was swapping air springs on a used pike I picked up. The one I pulled out had not one, but three, top out bumpers. Let's pretend this was intentional.. what purpose would this serve?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by radam

Riddle me this. I was swapping air springs on a used pike I picked up. The one I pulled out had not one, but three, top out bumpers. Let's pretend this was intentional.. what purpose would this serve?

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Top out bumpers or volume tokens?

Extra topout bumpers would stop the fork from extending fully. It might have been an attempt at lowering it without buying a new air shaft, but it would also mean that the main piston never got to the dimple in the stanchion to equalize the negative chamber with the positive one. It would ride like shit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roxtar

Top out bumpers or volume tokens?

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This

I run 3 in the Pike also

This top out bumper?
Attachment 329053

Or these tokens?
Attachment 329054

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

This top out bumper?
Attachment 329053

Or these tokens?
Attachment 329054

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Top out bumper. Not a debonair spring though, so the semi conical shaped thing on the left.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by HAB

Extra topout bumpers would stop the fork from extending fully. It might have been an attempt at lowering it without buying a new air shaft, but it would also mean that the main piston never got to the dimple in the stanchion to equalize the negative chamber with the positive one. It would ride like shit.

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Yeah that's what I was wondering. I didn't ride it as it came, planned on swapping air springs right out of the gate anyways. Also two of the bumpers were kind of sort of stuck together at first, so I had an extra wtf moment wondering what the different shaped thing was. But whatever, fork rides fine with the air spring I installed, so it's all good now.

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Xt cranks - 8100 (q factor of 172) or 8120 (q factor of 178). Boost frame.

Both now ok’d for boost, but they call the 8100 “race” and the 8120 trail. Initially the 00 series was thought to be for non boost, and you needed -20 series for boost but then everyone said it didn’t matter? Is that still the case in the new 12 speeds? Then some even said the regular 00 series actually gave a better chain line even on boost frames- is that still the case?

About to pull trigger, probably doesn’t matter just a indecisive. For what it’s worth it’s replacing an xtr crank (Don’t ask) that is labeled “9100/9120”

So, I’m gonna ask. Were yours the first gen XTR 9100/9120 that had some mysterious ‘problem’ that caused them to be temporarily halted?
Or is there something else wrong with them?

8100-1 is Q172 with a "traditional" Boost chain line of 52mm
8120-1 is Q178 with an "improved" Boost chain line of 55mm
8130-1 is Q181 with a Super boost chain line of 56.5mm.

The 52mm has the ability to work with 148 Boost and 142 Traditional hub spacing. It is also optimized to work with the smaller gears on the cassette. This is why you only find the XTR in 52mm chain line. Plus Shimano feels that elite athletes prefer the narrower Q factor.
The 55mm is more optimized to run on the larger cogs on your cassette.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs

8100-1 is Q172 with a "traditional" Boost chain line of 52mm
8120-1 is Q178 with an "improved" Boost chain line of 55mm
8130-1 is Q181 with a Super boost chain line of 56.5mm.

The 52mm has the ability to work with 148 Boost and 142 Traditional hub spacing. It is also optimized to work with the smaller gears on the cassette. This is why you only find the XTR in 52mm chain line. Plus Shimano feels that elite athletes prefer the narrower Q factor.
The 55mm is more optimized to run on the larger cogs on your cassette.

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Damn, that’s the goddamn best explanation anyone
Has given for this asinine system. Thanks man