PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

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Originally Posted by ~mikey b

have we already gone over this?

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When you forget history, you're doomed to repeat it..

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Originally Posted by chaka

This is good to know for future.... I'm assuming the epoxy bond on the spinner screw is weak enough to break in the future if you ever need to remove the binders?

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being careful not to melt the plastic binding parts hit the screw head with a 100w soldering iron,

before you strip the head, using heat is good idea any time you have a stubborn screw

especaily if you didnt mount the ski cuz you don't know what glue was used

if you don't have a soldering iron or can't get to the screw turn the drill bit backwards in the chuck and run the shank at high speed on the screw head, the heat generated will soften the epoxy or wtf is in there

I used the sth2 paper jig available on Google drives. I had everything lined up for +2 mount. Mounted turned out to be +1.25. Maybe my boot? But just a heads up.

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

being careful not to melt the plastic binding parts hit the screw head with a 100w soldering iron,

before you strip the head, using heat is good idea any time you have a stubborn screw

especaily if you didnt mount the ski cuz you don't know what glue was used

if you don't have a soldering iron or can't get to the screw turn the drill bit backwards in the chuck and run the shank at high speed on the screw head, the heat generated will soften the epoxy or wtf is in there

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Also a well fitting screwdriver not prone to cam out, i.e not all pozi#3's are created equal

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Originally Posted by tuco

Also a well fitting screwdriver not prone to cam out, i.e not all pozi#3's are created equal

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thanks pals.

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Originally Posted by tuco

Also a well fitting screwdriver not prone to cam out, i.e not all pozi#3's are created equal

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thanks pals.

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Originally Posted by ~mikey b

have we already gone over this?

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Yes ad nauseam.

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Originally Posted by tuco

Also a well fitting screwdriver not prone to cam out, i.e not all pozi#3's are created equal

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you mean i can't just grind the tip off my #3 phillips ?

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

you mean i can't just grind the tip off my #3 phillips ?

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You sure can, but your results may not meet expectations.

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Originally Posted by chaka

This is good to know for future.... I'm assuming the epoxy bond on the spinner screw is weak enough to break in the future if you ever need to remove the binders?

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Coat the screw with a release agent, AKA trewax paste wax.

I did an STH 2 mount yesterday as well. Used a Solly jig to set the toe for correct 325 BSL on the line then used the google template for the heel. Mounted on 2x4 first as I was setting for 325 BSL and wanted to be good to go forward more for smaller BSLs in the future. Would be cool if the Solly template on Pg 1 could be updated for the STH2 heel?

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Originally Posted by altacoup

I used the sth2 paper jig available on Google drives. I had everything lined up for +2 mount. Mounted turned out to be +1.25. Maybe my boot? But just a heads up.

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

being careful not to melt the plastic binding parts hit the screw head with a 100w soldering iron,

before you strip the head, using heat is good idea any time you have a stubborn screw

especaily if you didnt mount the ski cuz you don't know what glue was used

if you don't have a soldering iron or can't get to the screw turn the drill bit backwards in the chuck and run the shank at high speed on the screw head, the heat generated will soften the epoxy or wtf is in there

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Fortunately, the front screw of the shift toe goes on before the binding (and comes off after), so it's only the ski you need to worry about heat-damaging.

The front screw on one of my Bent Chet 100s is held in with fiberglass insulation and epoxy, and I've got a fair number of days on those skis without issue.

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Finally got these mounted. Big +1 for Alpinord's centering tool and templates. I've done the paper templates before and those are easy enough but these really made everything incredibly simple.

Attachment 439606

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Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum

Fortunately, the front screw of the shift toe goes on before the binding (and comes off after), so it's only the ski you need to worry about heat-damaging.

The front screw on one of my Bent Chet 100s is held in with fiberglass insulation and epoxy, and I've got a fair number of days on those skis without issue.

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yeah so a soldering iron on the screw will loosen the epoxy BUT it might melt the plastic of the shim on the ski binding

The last time i did it the trick was to put the iron on the screw and count ( try counting 10 seconds for a start) to make sure I wasnt melting the fuck out of everything, when you see the screw head starting to melt the surrounding plastic its time to stop

SO keep a close eye on the job and minimize the meltage

Dad's on the right, 6yo in the middle, and 2 year old creepy AF Halloween artwork on the left. Happy Festivus! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...07b7d7a191.jpg

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x-post from the template thread.



Did we ever come up with an accurate Tecton template? The few posted in this thread all seem to have the incorrect heel. I have two pair of skis to drill for Tectons (27.5 Zero G, 315bsl) and wouldn't rather not freehand the heels if possible.

Cheers, and thanks.

I want to add a shim under the toe piece on a pair of skis with a metal mounting zone (atks on a black crows solis). It’s as simple as unmounting toe piece, adding shim, using longer screws then adding a shitton of epoxy then screwing right back to existing holes, right? Mix in some steel wool maybe??

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Originally Posted by Andyski

I want to add a shim under the toe piece on a pair of skis with a metal mounting zone (atks on a black crows solis). It’s as simple as unmounting toe piece, adding shim, using longer screws then adding a shitton of epoxy then screwing right back to existing holes, right? Mix in some steel wool maybe??

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I can't speak specifically to the atks but...

Can likely just use wood glue for the screws if only mounted once and the screw(s) isn't a spinner at torque. If spinner, then see above posts on topic... small amount of epoxy +/- steel wool if I recall correctly... this had been covered.

Longer screws yes by the amount the shim is thick.



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^^^ agree with this... you don't need epoxy unless you strip the holes. Just be careful when you put the screws back in that you don't crossthread.

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Originally Posted by N1CK.

Did we ever come up with an accurate Tecton template? The few posted in this thread all seem to have the incorrect heel. I have two pair of skis to drill for Tectons (27.5 Zero G, 315bsl) and wouldn't rather not freehand the heels if possible.

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isn't the standard Vipec template from Knut accurate? I've used it a few times without issue as far as I can recall.

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Originally Posted by Andyski

I want to add a shim under the toe piece on a pair of skis with a metal mounting zone (atks on a black crows solis). It’s as simple as unmounting toe piece, adding shim, using longer screws then adding a shitton of epoxy then screwing right back to existing holes, right? Mix in some steel wool maybe??

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yoi are way over thinking it. New screws with wood glue. No epoxy.

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Originally Posted by kid-kapow

isn't the standard Vipec template from Knut accurate? I've used it a few times without issue as far as I can recall.

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Check out the this cross post and link to this thread discussing some of these issues for some.

Looking for opinions from experience on how these will ski and if it’ll be even be noticeable. Yea I know I’m gonna die.

So i have a set of pow skis that took some early season damage, and the company was kind enough to replace the ski at no charge. Re mounted the new ski on the rec line and the stamped mark on the new ski is 1/4” forward of the other ski. Noticed this after the mount.

I’ve never had skis with a variation in mount between the two skis and I know moving bindings fore/aft a cm makes a difference but I’m sure I’m good enough to notice a 6.35mm.

I know the answer is to go ski them, but I work all week, then leave for Alaska for a few weeks and won’t get to ski em or not until I’m there.

Question is how noticeable will this be when skiing soft snow?


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I had to mount a buddies ski 1cm different than the other due to a toe piece pullout/ delam, he said just mount it up and don't worry about the mismatch,

I asked him later on and he said he couldn't tell the difference

i've played with boot center on a demo binding in pow

I could tell the difference 20 mm made but not 10mm

XXXer and I both continue to beat opposite sides of the same drum.

He swears nobody can feel small changes in mount point and I swear I can.

5mm (about 1/4") is something I can feel on some skis but it's usually a minor difference until you get to about 1cm.

Having said that, given how much of a pain in the ass it would be to move a mount by 5mm to match the other ski, I'd personally prefer to leave them mismatched instead of changing both skis to some other mount point that is at least 1cm different (for hole spacing concerns).

You could also A/B them by switching feet and seeing if you notice something consistent.

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