Learned that from a Swiss mountain guide when I asked for his opinion on how/why my buddy died in an avalanche and it stuck with me.
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Learned that from a Swiss mountain guide when I asked for his opinion on how/why my buddy died in an avalanche and it stuck with me.
First time I did all 4 with whatever Rock Auto showed as the preferred set. The second and third time I had the tranny shop do it. I think he used Moog and Mopar (because Moog doesn't make all 4 pieces) but I think he only did front and rear last time and now I know it's the driver's side one that went bad.
Fill em with poly aka construction adhesive
Gotta replace the fan motor in the GFs Dodge mini van Sat. Need to buy a foot long flex screwdriver to get to the one screw. Not too bad otherwise.
I think that's the plan. 46a durometer sounds like it ought to solve it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Zander
Took about an hour.
3 out 5 cuss wrenches due to a couple of hard to get at bolts.
Trex arms would have come in handy. Pun intended.
Fan now works and at all speeds.
It took a Swiss mountain guide to teach you the most-used snarky disclaimer ever?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cisco Kid
Sent from my SM-G781U1 using Tapatalk
You make Swiss mountain guides sound like PHDs.Quote:
Originally Posted by claymond
Sent from my SM-S918U1 using Tapatalk
Pretty sure after a few decades of guiding around the world that he knew a lot more about avy's than you learn in school. IMHO, PHD's are over rated when it comes to wisdom.
My whole point was that reading about the mag complaining about not being able to feel secure when the road is snow then bare then ice then snow then bare my opinion was he was just going too fast for conditions in that car. But, I wasn't there.
why the fuck do the running lights (and clearance lights) on my trailer not work? marker lights, signals, brakes, and hazards all work fine but running and clearance lights refuse to work regardless of what i have my truck lights on. i re-grounded all the grounds that looked shitty and greased them all. all connections look good as far as i can tell but i greased them anyway. 4-pin was just replaced and i'm using a brand new 4-7 adapter for my 7pin socket. don't have an issue with my other trailer so i don't think its anything with fuses on my truck. help me out here, collective. don't tell me i have to rewire that fucker.
Who can tell me more info on rust touch ups on a 14yo truck?
Couple of spots where the top of the windshield meets the front roof line. A few on the hood and sides of the truck. It’s only got 80k miles so I want to keep it from falling completely apart.
I have a 19 year old truck that I'm trying to keep rust free-ish.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzworthy
I started a thread on bedliner on the hood and roof of the current old truck, and a couple of years ago on doing rocker panel repair and bedliner on the older old truck. So if redneck paint jobs are your style, check them out.
The windshield one can be bad news. I'd tackle that first. Pros will cut it out and replace it with sheet metal, then repaint...but that's spendy. Other options include POR15/paint or bed liner combo, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzworthy
Sent from my SM-S928U1 using Tapatalk
The short answer is because they are a trailer lights, God’s test to humanities patience. Do you have a tester? First step is to see if you are getting juice to the light. ( times out of 10 it is a ground issue somewhere. Any chance you go tot moisture in the lights? Checked the bulbs?Quote:
Originally Posted by stealurface831
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I can attest to this. My turn signal just want out on my flatbed trailer yesterday and terror coursed through my veins.Quote:
Originally Posted by teleee
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I'll third that sentiment.Quote:
Originally Posted by teleee
Newer vehicles can make things more complicated, too; my sled trailer worked okay with my 2000 Xterra, but my 2017 F-150 would throw dash errors and the lights worked intermittently at best until I replaced the seven-pin plug on the trailer with a 4-pin (er, I think; it may have been the other way around). There was a grounding issue involved but also the truck was outsmarting itself about whether or not a trailer was connected and doing weird things to the trailer light circuits as a result.
All that said, if you can try another vehicle for comparison, I'd do so.
I think you also mentioned a 4-to-7 converter; if it's possible to remove that from the equation, at least for testing, I'd want to do so.
juice and bulbs both good. i went ahead and upgraded to new LEDs but no success re: running lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by teleee
interesting that you mention a 2017 f-150. thats what i've got. i'm gonna check the fuses tomorrow. hope thats the issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum
thanks.
There is likely a connection under the bed, right around the spare tire that leads to your hitch. Disconnect it and inspect the terminals. Wouldn't hurt to put some dielectric grease in there while you're at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealurface831
Those terminals are notorious for water sepage and resulting glitches if all kinds.
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Do you have both 4 and seven pin hookups on the truck?Quote:
Originally Posted by stealurface831
If so, try the other one if you haven't already.
yep, got both. tried the 7 pin to see if that did anything. it didn't.Quote:
Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum
If you're driving in winter conditions your trailer is likely exposed to liquid de-icer, which basically eats trailer wires. I've had a sled trailer for almost 20 years and it's a rare year where I don't have some kind of fault in the system. This tester is pretty handy for identifying where the fault is occurring: https://www.etrailer.com/Automotive-...etails=.videos
Yep, that’s the worrisome spot for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater
I’d like another decade out of this truck if it can and then I’ll jump into the future with something new. I’ll be old by then anyway and want new comfort.
Who am I kidding, 6 years out I’ll be 55 and it’ll be time for a new to me vehicle at minimum.
The worrisome part is the part you can't see! Under the lip of the windshield. If the pillars are rusting that can render the vehicle unsafe! Windshield replacement often yields scratched paint, which can lead to rust under the windshield. My brother had to remove his windshield, mask off the cab, sandblast the whole lip and reprime/paint the whole lip because of rust.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzworthy
KSL even did an investigative report on uthttps://youtu.be/HzC7cuR2R28?si=c7K_5l8zpjMfDLYH
Been having a bit of fun lately.
My neighbor is my physical therapist. He pretty much isn't charging me to treat me for my recent bulging disk/ pinched nerve fun.
He has a junky Nissan Titan that had a bad starter, so I told him we could trade.
Wow, Nissan engineers are a special kind of evil.
Starter is under the intake manifold. What I thought would be a 2-3 hour job at an easy pace has become a months long adventure and patience test.
When I removed the old bolts, the starter wouldn't budge. I first had to break the old starter apart. Then I had to wedge a chisel in there and work both sides. Once it broke free, this is what I saw:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Auto/Bron...7387850-X4.jpg
The internal ring bonded with the outer ring and it wasn't budging. Dissimilar metals suck.
After hitting it with the heat gun for a while, some PB Blaster, and a BFH with the chisel, it came loose, but slipped to the inside of the ring and a piece fell inside the flywheel housing.
I had to use a metal saw to cut the bottom out so it would slip back out the opening.
Once that was done, I rigged up my phone endoscope to a grabber tool and tried to fish the piece out.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Auto/Bron...2529020-X4.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Auto/Bron...2876125-X4.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Auto/Bron...8759773-X4.jpg
Here is the first video of me trying to get it. It is long, and I don't get it right away, but this shows how deep down it was, and what a PITA it was.
https://videos.smugmug.com/Auto/Bron...il/master.m3u8
After a bit, it just fell down into the inspection hole and I found it on the ground.
https://videos.smugmug.com/Auto/Bron...il/master.m3u8
The offender:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Auto/Bron...0889502-X4.jpg
Here is what the piece that was stuck looked like. I had to piece it back together to make sure no other pieces were stuck in there.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Auto/Bron...421355--X4.jpg
I almost just left it in there, since it is AL. It probably would have just been chewed up, but not worth the risk, and I would feel horrible grenading his bell housing.
Here is what it looks like now:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Auto/Bron...4989023-X4.jpg
Got the new gaskets on the intake manifold, and started buttoning it back up:
https://photos.smugmug.com/Auto/Bron...8352011-X3.jpg
Then, I , of course, over torqued one of the bolts and broke it.
Back at it tomorrow to take the manifold back off, plug up the holes, and remove the bolt.
I am oddly at peace with this. It had to happen. It has been one of those projects, and getting practice removing broken bolts is valuable experience.
I plan on drilling a very small pilot hole, hitting the block with the heat gun at max, PB Blaster or Kroil, and then reverse bit. Going for success on the first try.
Wish me luck.